[Julien] let us know about his ProtoDeck. A MIDIBOX based controller for Ableton Live using a Big Max for live patch interface.

One thing that we have seen is less and less hacks for are MIDIbox projects. It is no wonder, considering now a days we have touch screen and multiple other interfaces and sound creation tools – MIDI almost seems like a dying art.

The ProtoDeck uses 87 pots, 90 buttons, and 81 RGB LEDs all controlled by 2 PIC 18F4620s. [Julien] says his main goals where to have lots of color and buttons. We think he succeeded.

[Aggaz] added 16 potentiometers to his Arduinome.The Arduinome is a monome clone based around the Arduino as a microprocessor. We seen some Arduinome builds in the past but [Aggaz's] work augments the physical interface.

Potentiometers used in circuit bending allow for manipulation of the sounds coming out of the circuits. In this case the pots are connected to the microcontroller instead of the sound generation circuitry which means you can do whatever you want with them depending on how creative you are with the code. So far he’s just starting to get the new set of interfaces to play nicely over the serial connection. This could end up being quite popular as it only requires the addition of a multiplexer IC, the potentiometers, and the knobs.

View Circuit Diagram

Working Of The Circuit

IC1 generates 150µSec. pulses at about 80Hz frequency. Q1 acts as a buffer and Q2 inverts the polarity of the pulses and drives the Transformer. The amplitude of the output pulses is set by P1 and approximately displayed by the brightness of LED D1. D2 protects Q2 against high voltage peaks generated by T1 inductance during switching.

Components Used

P1______________4K7 Linear Potentiometer

R1____________180K 1/4W Resistor
R2______________1K8 1/4W Resistor (see Notes)
R3______________2K2 1/4W Resistor
R4____________100R 1/4W Resistor

C1____________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C2____________100µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1______________LED Red 5mm.
D2___________1N4007 1000V 1A Diode

Q1,Q2_________BC327 45V 800mA PNP Transistors

IC1____________7555 or TS555CN CMos Timer IC

T1_____________220V Primary, 12V Secondary 1.2VA Mains Transformer

SW1____________SPST Switch (Ganged with P1)

B1_____________3V Battery (two 1.5V AA or AAA cells in series etc.)

Notes

T1 is a small mains transformer 220 to 12V @ 100 or 150mA. It must be reverse connected i.e. the 12V secondary winding across Q2 Collector and negative ground, and the 220V primary winding to output electrodes.

Output voltage is about 60V positive and 150V negative but output current is so small that there is no electric-shock danger.

In any case P1 should be operated by the “patient”, starting with the knob fully counter-clockwise, then rotating it slowly clockwise until the LED starts to illuminate. Stop rotating the knob when a light itch sensation is perceived.

Best knob position is usually near the center of its range.

In some cases a greater pulse duration can be more effective in cellulite treatment. Try changing R2 to 5K6 or 10K maximum: stronger pulses will be easily perceived and the LED will shine more brightly.

Electrodes can be obtained by small metal plates connected to the output of the circuit via usual electric wire and can be taped to the skin. In some cases, moistening them with little water has proven useful.

SW1 should be ganged to P1 to avoid abrupt voltage peaks on the “patient’s” body at switch-on, but a stand alone SPST switch will work quite well, provided you remember to set P1 knob fully counter-clockwise at switch-on.

Current drawing of this circuit is about 1mA @ 3V DC .

Some commercial sets have four, six or eight output electrodes.

To obtain this you can retain the part of the circuit comprising IC1, R1, R2, C1, C2, SW1 and B1.

Other parts in the diagram (i.e. P1, R3, R4, D1, D2, Q2 & T1) can be doubled, trebled or quadrupled.

Added potentiometers and R3 series resistors must be wired in parallel and all connected across Emitter of Q1 and positive supply.

Commercial sets have frequently a built-in 30 minutes timer. For this purpose you can use the Timed Beeper.

View Circuit Diagram

Here’s an easy way to measure an amplifier’s output power without trying to convert voltage to power measurements. Resistor R1 provides the load for your amplifier and should be rated at least twice the maximum amplifier power output; for example, if your amp puts out 25 watts, R1 should be rated at least 50 watts. The meter scale must be hand calibrated, and will take some time and effort, but once done it’s done for good. Remove the scale cover from meter M1 and borrow an AC variable auto-transformer, or connect a 1000 Hz signal generator to the amplifier output. Connect the output of the auto-transformer (or amplifier) to binding posts BP1 and BP2, and connect an AC voltmeter (VOM) across the binding posts. Set R2 to off – full counter-clockwise if correctly wired. Adjust the auto-transformer (or amplifier) output until the AC meter indicates 20 V rms – the voltage for 50 watts across 8 ohms. Adjust potentiometer R2 for a full scale indication on meter M1. Seal R2’s shaft with a drop of Glyptol or nail polish. Reduce the voltage across the binding posts in accordance with the table shown and mark the meter scale accordingly.

Parts List For An Audio Wattmeter

BP1, BP2 – Insulated binding posts

C1, C2 – 100 uF, 50 VDC

D1, D2, D3, D4 – Diode, HEP-134

M1 – 0.1 mA DC Meter

R1 – 8 ohm, 100 watt resistor, see text

R2 – 1500 ohm linear taper potentiometer

Got a scratchy potentiometer/knob control on your guitar amp, stereo, 2-way radio, etc., then check out this site I found below.

scratchy pots

and for more tips and tech on all gear.
thegearpage.net

A new chapter!

we tried some new simple interactions this morning.

First of all we used this code

int value = 0;
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);
<pre>}</pre>
//sets a signal on arduino's serial port?
void loop () {
value += 1; //values constantly plus one
Serial.println(value, DEC); // graphic visualization of the function
delay (5); //function delay, a number every 5 millisecond
}

Using the serial number and giving the command “println” is useful. The program records its outputs and clicking on the export button on the arduino program we’ll have a window with a numeric representation of every output. You can use it to check your program and to see if everything is going how is supposed to be.

After that we worked again on some basics with the leds.

//in order to get a simulation of an analogic output
//i must use a pwm pin
int ledPin =  3;    // LED connected to digital pin 3
int ledVal = 5;  //defines brightness
// The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
void setup()   {
 // initialize the digital pin as an output:
 pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()  {
for  (int x=0; x<255; x++) { //defines x,fix a limit and establish that is gonna grow up
 analogWrite(ledPin, x); // pin brightness is gonna grow up
 delay(5); //imposta ritmo //with this rithm
}
for (int x=255; x>0; x--) { //same as before but descendent
 analogWrite(ledPin,x);
 delay(5);
}
}

In this case we got a led which light grows up and diminish slowly in a loop. The code is quite clear. The only important thing is to be connected to a pwm pin cause it’s simulates an analogic output, so it can have a modulation instead of a 0/1 output (digital output). In Arduino 2009 the pwm pins are 3,5,6,9,10,11.

We actually started from a simpler example with only light growing up, the code is basically the same

int ledPin =  3;    // LED connected to digital pin 3
int ledVal = 5;  //defines brightness
// The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
void setup()   {
 // initialize the digital pin as an output:
 pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()  {
for  (int x=0; x<255; x++) { //defines x,fix a limit and establish that is gonna grow up
 analogWrite(ledPin, x); // pin brightness is gonna grow up
 delay(5); //imposta ritmo //with this rithm
}
}

Another variation of the code, with the same effect, is

//use a pwm pin
int ledPin =  3;    // LED connected to digital pin 3
int ledVal = 5;  //brigthness
int direction = 1 ; //variable, defines flow direction
// The setup() method runs once, when the sketch starts
void setup()   {
 // initialize the digital pin as an output:
 pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
}
void loop()  {
for  (int x=0; x<255; x++) { //defines x with a limit and a growing up
 if(direction==1) { //when direction is +1
 analogWrite(ledPin,x);//then light will have a growing x value from 0 to 255
}
if(direction==-1) { // if direction is -1
 analogWrite(ledPin, 255-x); //light will diminish
}
delay(5); //general delay
}
direction *=-1; //every time direction (1) gets moltipled for -1. When is +1 it becomes -1, at the next cycle -1 will become again+1
}

After that we worked with a potentiometer

Basically is just an analogic switch, so that we don’t have only an on/off output but also every output between those two (the scale goes from 0 to 1023).
It must be connected to the 5 volt pin, to the grund and to a 10k resistor (as you can see it has 3 plugs). Here is the code

int sensorPin=2;  //output sensor
int sensorValue=0;
void setup () {
Serial.begin(9600);} //recall Arduino serial port
void loop (){
sensorValue = analogRead (sensorPin); //defines sensorvalue
int ledFadeValue = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 0, 255); //defines that the 0-1023 transistor range will be now converted in 0-255
analogWrite (11, ledFadeValue); //turns on the led
Serial.println(sensorValue, DEC); //digital output
delay(20); //rithm
}

So in here we just have a potentiometer that regulates a led. Now a variation

int sensorPin=2;
int sensorValue=0;
void setup(){
Serial.begin(9600); //recall Arduino serial
}
void loop (){
sensorValue = analogRead (sensorPin);
int ledFadeValue = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 0, 255); // 0-1023 is used as 0-255
analogWrite (11, ledFadeValue); // pin will turn on and off
int ledFadeValue2 = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 255, 0); // in here we do the opposite, potentiomter 0
//corresponds to led 255 and so on
analogWrite (10, ledFadeValue2); // pin will turn off and on
Serial.println(sensorValue, DEC); //digital output visual
delay(20);
}

So we learned that with the <em>map</em> option we can translate a range of values to another one. If we would have liked only to pass from a medium brigthness to a high one (not maximum still) the command would have been
[code]int ledFadeValue = map(sensorValue, 0, 1023, 123, 200);

I took a video of this

We were done with the potentometer then and we started using a simple push-button.

int buttonPin =2;  //button input
int ledPin=13; //output
int buttonState = 0;
void setup() {
 pinMode(ledPin,OUTPUT);
 pinMode(buttonPin,INPUT);  //button will be an input
}
void loop(){
 buttonState=digitalRead(buttonPin); //button state
 if(buttonState==HIGH){ //if the state is HIGH (pressed)
  digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH); //turn LED on:
 } else{
 digitalWrite(ledPin,LOW);
<pre>
<pre> // turn LED off:</pre>
</pre>
}

<img class="alignnone" title="pulsante con buzzo" src="http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/8623/pulsanteconbuzzo.jpg" alt="" width="448" height="335" />

I think that looks simple. If you keep the button pushed it will turn on the led (a buzz in this case). Now a little variation
[code]int buttonPin =2; //button input
int ledPin=13; //pin output
int buttonState = 0;
int redpin =5; //second pin output
void setup() {
 pinMode(ledPin,OUTPUT);
 pinMode (redpin,OUTPUT);
 pinMode(buttonPin,INPUT);
}
void loop(){
 buttonState=digitalRead(buttonPin); //defines button state
 if(buttonState==HIGH){ //if is pressed
 digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH);//turn LED on
digitalWrite(redpin,LOW); //and the other one off
 }
 else{
 digitalWrite(ledPin,LOW);// turn LED off
digitalWrite(redpin,HIGH); //and the other one on
 }
}

Se there is a led always on and when you push the button it will turn off with a new one that will be turn off as long as you keep pushed. Another step further

int old_val=0; //this variable stores the previous value of "val"
int state=0;
void setup(){
 pinMode(LED,OUTPUT); // tell arduino LED is on output
 pinMode(BUTTON, INPUT); //and Button is on input
}
void loop() {
 val=digitalRead(BUTTON); //read input value and store it
 if ((val==HIGH)&&(old_val==LOW)){ //check if there was a transition
 state=1-state; //changes state's value
 delay(10);
 }
 old_val=val; //val is now old,let's store it
 if (state==1){
 digitalWrite (LED,HIGH); //turn led on
 }else{
 digitalWrite(LED,LOW);
 }
}

So that every time you push the button the led will change its state without having to keep pushed. One push it turns on, another one and goes off again.

That's pretty much all the code we wrote. We tried some soldering (unfortunately I don't have a video of my first try). I guess I'm not really good ad it but
that's not the part that goes "public", i hope it won't be a huge problem. I took some pics but I didn't have a good camera, I hope I'll post a good one for the end of the week

That one is a buzzo beater, is an i/o device whichs makes a quite disturbing noise if on. We tried it with almost every function i mentioned before just to see how it responses.
After that the day was practically over, we just went home with "some" homework to do, works that I'll post later.

Author : SOETIKNO, YUDHI

Perkembangan teknologi elektronika yang begitu cepat semakin membantu kehidupan sehari-hari, dimana dalam kemajuan jaman sekarang ini menuntut semuanya berjalan serba cepat dan otomatis. Adanya model kursi elektrik ini dapat digunakan untuk keperluan kerja di perkantoran karena pengguna dapat menyesuaikan posisi duduk saat bekerja dengan hanya menekan tombol-tombol yang tersedia untuk menyesuaikan posisi duduknya. Metode yang digunakan adalah cara kerja dongkrak sebagai alat bantu menaik-turunkan bantalan kursi, rangkaian transmisi roda gigi untuk menaik? turunkan punggung kursi, rangkaian driver untuk menerima sinyal dari mikrokontroler dan menggerakkan motor, sensor ketinggian memakai potentiometer geser dan sensor derajat menggunakan potentiometer putar. IC mikro yang dipakai adalah ATMEGA 8 dan driver yang digunakan adalah rangkaian h-bridge Dengan metode yang telah dilakukan menghasilkan batas maksimum kenaikan bantalan kursi 4 cm, beban maksimum pada bantalan kursi sebesar 200 kg dan untuk punggung kursi sebesar + 47 kg. Waktu yang dibutuhkan untuk menaikkan bantalan kursi adalah 34 detik dan untuk menurunkan kursi adalah 32 detik.

Keyword : chair, microprossesor, jack, gear wheel, transistor, potentiometer

Sumber : http://repository.petra.ac.id/2444/

[NeZoomie] built an RGB mood lamp as his first electronics project. He certainly hit it out of the park with this one, ending up with a design so clean it could be a commercial product. The controller is an Arduino board (further proof that this is a fantastic entry-level platform) that interfaces with 8 RGB LEDs. He’s built an enclosure out of thick polypropylene that does a great job of diffusing the light and adding a stylish look. The control system features a rotary potentiometer from SparkFun and what he calls a tilt-potentiometer of his own design after drawing inspiration from Hack a Day.

Blinky things are fun and that’s why we see a lot of mood lamps around here. Take a look at the video after the break and if you’ve got the parts, give this one a try!

Flee market booty 11/15/09, originally uploaded by Black Heart Industries.

Not too much today. Got some old switches and some high quality switches by Cutler-Hammer, aerospace controls division. The most interesting item is that thing that looks like a clock. It’s a ten turn, 20K ohm potentiometer, made by Bourns inc. I’ve never seen this kind before. A real class act.

In an effort to simplify his interface, [danwagoner] cobbled together this push potentiometer. It utilizes a potentiometer mounted directly above a push button with a spring mounted around it. This way the user has only one item to deal with. They can twist the knob and press down on it to push the button.  We love seeing people come up with ways of creating their own items instead of buying something. This was fairly inventive and reminds us of the LED buttons we saw back in January. Great job [danwagoner].

Robot enthusiast [Vitalijus Rodnovas] built this rig to allow a humanoid robot to mimic his own body movements in real time. [Rodonovas] refers to his man-machine interface as a “master-slave suit,” but elsewhere this is often called a waldo after a prescient 1942 [Robert Heinlein] novella. This project page is slight on details and is mostly written in his native Lithuanian, but the pictures speak volumes, and with a little help from Google Translate we can learn the essential facts: The robot itself is a commercially-available kit, the Kondo KHR-1HV from Japan. The custom-built harness uses a collection of surplus Soviet-era military potentiometers (acquired on eBay) to read the positions of his elbows and shoulders, then an ATmega8-based interface board translates these readings into motion commands sent to the robot’s onboard controller. Some additional notes and code can be found on the RoboSavvy Forum.

Does it work? Just watch. His grin as the video progresses is infectious!

Hack a Day has previously covered other Waldos, but this latest deserves style points for its lightweight simplicity.

Hi,

as many of you knows, there are some review “out there” about the internal trim pot of the Taiwan version of Boss Ce-2 pedal.

Basically, people say that turning this trim pot you can get the Ce-2 Made in Japan sound, because the PCB is the same.
I’ve made this video just to show you that, in my opinion, is just another DEEP control. For me the difference in sound can be reduced turning this pot, between MIJ vs MIT.

But I think that there always will be a minor sound difference between the two pedals. (I mean that MIJ is the best)

Another point is that MIT have higher input impedance so it is more hard for this pedal to go clipping than the MIJ version, specially if you have strong input coming in.
Here’s the video