What Is Hair?

First of all we need to understand the hair structure itself. I will do a quick summery here.

In the picture you can see an example of a cross section of the hair shaft. The Medulla is at the very centre of the shaft (which, interestingly enough, is mostly only present in thicker hair types). Next we have the Cortex, which is the main structure of the hair and is where the hair’s strength and elasticity originate. It’s made up of bunches of long, fibrous chains of proteins that twist around each other to create the hair’s basic structure and here is where the colour of the hair is found. Lastly we have the Cuticle, which is the part of the hair that is visible. The cuticle is made up of several transparent layers of interlocking scales made mostly of the protein keratin, which serves to protect the hairs main structure. The cuticles can lift or close depending on pH, chemicals and heat. The condition of the cuticles is what mostly determines the hairs healthy appearance. The hair is made up of mostly protein (around 90%).

The Role of Protein

As mentioned above, protein makes up the bulk of the hair and is what provides the hairs basic structure and strength. Over time, the cuticles become damaged, either by natural weathering, excessive use of heat, chemicals and/or rough handling. Protein loss is a natural matter of fact. Even rinsing the hair in plain water causes some loss of protein. Although hair can never be permanently repaired, it can be temporarily patched up and strengthened with the use of protein. That’s why it’s important to supplement your hair care with regular protein treatments. Hair that has the right balance of protein is able to hold onto moisture well.

Natural hair or hair that has not been chemically processed is naturally stronger, as the protein structure of the hair has not been compromised. Natural hair requires less protein supplementation to stay healthy. Chemically processed hair including relaxed and dyed hair is relatively weaker as the chemicals in these treatments break up the protein structure of the hair and cause significant damage to the shaft. Chemically processed hair requires more protein to maintain a healthy state.

The size of the protein seems to make a difference too. It seems as though hydrolysed proteins are the best proteins to use in hair care as they are the right size to really stick to, and form temporary bonds with the hair (known as adsorbing). Click HERE for more on that.

The Role of Moisture (Water)

Water is very important in the composition of the hair. It gives hair it’s flexibility (elasticity), bounce and vitality and promotes normal and healthy hair growth. The proteins present in the hair are hydrophilic (water loving) and attract and bind to water. The absorption of water gives the hair its required moisture content which is essential for healthy hair appearance. Over the course of time hair loses its water content and needs to be replenished. Black hair in general is dry in nature. Because of the bends and kinks in our hair the cuticles at these points are always slightly open. Therefore water easily escapes, which can lead to dryness and breakage. It’s very important then, to keep our hair hydrated with water to maintain healthy, flexible hair.

A Balancing Act

It’s important to keep the hair’s protein and moisture content nicely balanced. Lack of moisture will leave the hair dry, brittle and dull and the shaft itself will appear thin. Imagine a carrot. With the right moisture content, it’s nice and plump. When that same carrot loses it’s moisture content, it becomes very shrivelled and much thinner in appearance. The same goes for hair. The right amount of moisture will create a fuller, healthier strand. Lack of protein will cause the hair to lose it’s structure. Hair will appear limp and will lose it’s ability to return to it’s normal shape when stretched.

Understanding Breakage

Hair breakage occurs when this delicate balance of protein and moisture is thrown off (aside from rough handling). Most of the time we are told that we need protein if our hair is breaking. Although this might be true, it may not always be the case. Our hair care practices have, over time, caused us to become very afraid of water. We see water and run a million miles. lol. We ‘moisturise’ with oil instead of water and don’t wash our tresses often enough. Most black hair types are so deprived of moisture that chronic breakage sets in. We will then run to all the protein treatments to correct the issue, which often makes things worse because our hair isn’t lacking protein, it’s lacking MOISTURE! Correcting your moisturising habits often solves the issue of severe breakage as the balance of protein and moisture begin to come in line.

On the other hand, once we get into the right moisturising habits we can easily forget about protein. Washing, co-washing, deep conditioning, misting, leave-ins, moisturising and sealing. All these techniques are great, however if not supplemented with protein, can begin to tip the balance to the side of too much moisture which then causes breakage as the hair’s structure becomes compromised.

Maintaining the right balance of protein and moisture will keep the hair strong yet soft and flexible. The perfect formula for healthy hair.

How To Balance Moisture and Protein

Most products fall into either of these two categories and organising your products into each one is a great place to start. Most hair products contain protein of some kind, including shampoos, conditioners, leave-ins and moisturisers but depending on where they are on the list will determine whether the product is more moisturising or more strengthening. Protein nearer the bottom of the ingredients list suggests a relatively low amount and a more moisturising product. If the protein is listed nearer the top (especially in the first five ingredients) than the product is more strengthening than moisturising. Ultimately you will have to experiment to see which ones make your hair softer and which ones make your hair harder (stronger).

Bring more moisture into your routine by moisturising with water and/or water based products and sealing with oils/butters on a daily basis (learn more about proper moisturising techniques HERE). Washing your hair more often (every three to seven days is recommended for black, curly & Kinky hair types, including those who are relaxed) with the use of moisturising shampoos (followed by a moisturising conditioner of course), co-washes or even just warm water rinsing, will help tremendously on the quest to gaining more moisture. Harsh shampoos strip the hair of vital moisture and can leave the hair dry, so be sure to use mild and gentle formulas that are Sulfate free and suitable for daily/weekly use. Moisturising deep conditioning (especially with heat) is also an invaluable moisture source and really helps to replenish moisture deep within the strand and keep it there for longer. Look for moisturising ingredients in your moisturising product range such as water (obviously), glycerine, fatty alcohols like cetyl and cetearyl alcohols, Aloe, panthenol (vitamin b5), honey and polyquaterniums, to name a few.

When it comes to protein, the mistake that most of us make is only scheduling it into our routine, using protein once or twice a month or even once every two months according to the timetable we have set ourselves (so very guilty of this, lol). Scheduling hair treatments is great and allows us to have a well thought out, systematic approach to hair care, however, we must be sensitive to the ever changing needs of our hair. We should be able to read the signs and adjust our hair care maintenance according to the hairs needs. Some of us don’t even use any kind of protein treatments at all. Keeping a selection of protein-rich products on hand including a protein moisturiser or leave-in conditioner and a rinse-out protein conditioner/treatment gives us the flexibility to use protein whenever our hair requires it. Look for hair strengthening ingredients in your protein product range higher up on the ingredients list such as amino acids, hydrolysed proteins (such as oat, wheat and corn), cholesterol and keratin to name a few.

Naturally we will use more moisturising products than protein, as moisture is more volatile and is lost more easily.

The best way to determine what our hair needs is to pay close attention to it. Does it feel soft or unusually hard/wiry? Does it break easily when handled? Does your hair retain moisture well or does moisture evaporate too quickly? Does it feel crunchy or limp and mushy? Noticing the little signs of moisture or protein imbalance will allow us to treat the issues quickly and effectively.

Wet testing is a great way to monitor your hairs health to determine whether it is balanced, needs more moisture or more protein and I will discuss this in more detail in the next post along with how to cater to your hairs protein/moisture needs by relying on the signs of the hair and not necessarily by just following a set routine.

I hope you’ve found this post helpful. Until next time!

After reading through ‘The Science of Black Hair’, i’ve decided to tweak my hair care regime for (hopefully) a better maintenance system. The author of the book suggests learning to carefully balance moisture and protein for the best hair results and suggests to not only have a protein conditioner/treatment but to also have some kind of protein rich leave-in or moisturiser. I’ll discuss in a future post about the importance of balancing moisture and protein, but for now i’ll outline what i’ve done and will be doing to kick start (or kick-continue?) my healthy hair care regime. I will be pre-pooing before every shampoo with coconut oil (overnight, preferably), finger detangling BEFORE washing, using heat to deep condition (whenever possible) and wet testing on a regular basis to learn how my hair is fairing.

So firstly i needed to give my hair a fresh start, a clean slate or blank canvas to work with. And because i live in such a hard water area i know that simply clarifying my hair is not going to be enough. I’ve always known about chelating shampoos but haven’t paid much attention to them. After reading Kelly’s post on the matter, found here, and after re-reading about using chelating shampoos in THE book, i finally bought the Pureology Purify Shampoo from the list provided by Kelly. Here’s what i did yesterday.

My Clean Slate Routine

Pre-Poo

I started by spraying my hair liberally with my Light Conditioning & Detangling Spray (available soon) and sectioning my hair into four (as always). Starting with one section, and clipping up the other three, i re-misted it with more detangler and smoothed it into my hair. It soaks in very well and makes finger detangling a breeze. I LOVE THIS STUFF! Anyway…Once fully hydrated, i ran my hands through my hair, gently separating my strands and removing any knots and tangles. I then saturated the section with coconut oil, twisting to finish. I repeated this for all the sections and covered my hair in a plastic cap (bag, lol). I sat under my hooded dryer for 20 mins and let my hair cool slightly before proceeding to wash.

Detangle

Once i got into the shower i rinsed my hair with water and going one section at a time, i un-twisted and rinsed the section for a few minutes, agitating my hair and scalp with my fingers. I then applied my Crambe Moisturising Conditioner (available soon) to the section and detangled using the Tangle Teezer. I never detangle the whole section at once. After applying conditioner to the whole section, i separate it into smaller sections (clipping up the rest) and apply a bit more conditioner to that. Then i carefully detangle from tip to root, sub-dividing the smaller section further if necessary. Once i finish detangling the smaller section i clip it out of the way and take another smaller section from the main until i’ve detangled that whole section. I then twisted the whole section and clipped it out of the way. Finger detangling before hand removed a lot of the tangles and knots and made detangling at this stage much easier, which translated into less breakage. I repeated for all the other sections. I tried wet testing at this stage but i still have to get to grips with it. With time i’ll be a pro at it.

Chelate

Taking down one of the sections, i untwisted and fully rinsed the conditioner out. I then squeezed some of the Pureology Purifying Shampoo into my palms and distributed it through my hair. What a lather. Holding my hair taught with one hand, i used the pads of my fingers to gently scrub my scalp. The instructions on the bottle says to leave the shampoo on for 2 minutes before rinsing so i clipped up the foamy section without rinsing and moved on to the next, repeating for all sections. Once i had lathered all sections i went back to the first section, unclipped and rinsed out the shampoo. What a strange feeling! My hair felt really… strange. Totally stripped of all oils but yet not crispy, crunchy. Just an odd sensation. Not sure whether that is down to the brand of shampoo or to the pre-poo.  Once fully rinsed i re-twisted the section, repeating for all sections.

Strengthen

I dried my hair gently before applying my protein treatment. I have a formula ready for making my protein treatment which includes Hibiscus, Coconut Milk and Hydrolysed Wheat Protein but i didn’t have some of the ingredients on hand so i mixed in some Hibiscus extract and Hydrolysed Protein into some leftover conditioner i had lying around. I undone a section, applied the mix from tip to root and re-twisted, repeating for all sections. I covered my hair in a plastic cap/bag and sat under my hooded dryer for 15 minutes, letting my hair cool before rinsing it out. I made sure to undo the twists and rinse the sections to fully remove the protein conditioner, re-twisting when done.

Deep Condition

Drying my hair gently, i proceeded to deep condition. I applied my Sapote Intense Conditioning Mask (available soon) to each section, really making sure to coat my ends well, covered and again sat under the dryer for 30 – 45 minutes this time, allowing my hair to cool before my final rinse.

Cuticle Rinse

This time i kept my four twists intact and thoroughly rinsed my hair with cool running water to help my cuticles lie flat and keep the moisture in. I then followed with a very diluted ACV rinse, about 2 tablespoons to 500ml of cool water. I only want the acidic benefits of the ACV to further close my cuticles, not the clarifying properties so i used a small amount. I use larger amounts of ACV if i wish to benefit from its cleansing effects. I poured the rinse over my hair and scalp and then stepped out of the shower. I didn’t rinse it out.

Protein Spritz, Leave-In & Seal

I made a protein rich spritz for my hair which includes hibiscus extract, hydrolysed wheat protein, rosewater, glycerine and aloe vera juice. Going a section at a time, i undone the twisted section, parted it into two and blotted my hair dry with an old cotton t-shirt. My hair felt really good. Nice and soft. I misted it lightly with the protein spritz which i could feel strengthening my strands further, as my hair started to harden slightly. I then applied my Creamy Leave-In Conditioner which really re-softened the strands beautifully. I finished by sealing in the moisture with my Shea Hair Butter and twisted the section. I repeated for the other half of the section and the further three remaining sections. By the time i was finished i had 8 large twists and air-dried overnight.

There you have it. This morning when i woke up, i felt my twists and i must say… i’m really pleased! My hair feels soooooooo good! Really soft and smooth. I will definitely chelate on a regular basis, maybe once every month or two months, to really remove any mineral deposits left on my hair by this yucky water i have to live with.

I’m going to concentrate on packing the moisture in this week by moisturising nightly with my aloe & rosewater spritz with added honeyquat and panthenol followed by the Creamy Leave-In Conditioner and sealed in with the Shea Hair Butter or the Shea Hair & Scalp Oil depending on how i feel. At the weekend i’ll cleanse and deep condition with heat. I’ll be cuticle rinsing on a regular basis as well for added smoothness.

If you’re interested in purchasing any of the products mentioned here before they go on sale on the website (which will be at SOME point, lol) you can always request them via the Custom-Made Service by filling out the form on the website or by emailing me at sales@dias-allnatural.co.uk. I bought the Pureology Purify Shampoo from Beauty Flash Shop online.

Until next time!

I had high (↑) hopes – some realistic, others not so much – that were quickly dashed once the henna was washed out of my hair.

Dashed Hope #1:

The subtle but noticeable red gloss my hair was “supposed” to have was no where to be found. My hair is the same 1b that it’s always been. What’s saddest about this development is that both my husband and I saw the reddish tint in my hair when I first applied the henna. I am disappointed.

Dashed Hope #2:

Samsonesque hair of my dreams is a more distant reality after the henna treatment. One of the first “benefits” that initially drew me to henna was the promise of strengthened hair. How excited I was to decrease shedding and lessen hair loss. You do, of course, understand my utter SHOCK (and absolute DISMAY) at seeing a S-I-G-N-I-F-I-C-A-N-T increase in shedding and hair loss AS SOON as I started washing out the henna. I did indeed cry that river requested by Justin Timberlake. (Side Note: Just noticed his name is ‘-lake’ and he’s requesting a ‘river’. *CRICKETS* Umm…guess I’m the only one who cares about this observation. Okey dokey…moving on.) My hair continued its migration from my head well through the styling process.

Dashed Hope #3:

I was secretly hoping for an instant transformation into a melanin-rich Rapunzel. You can stop shaking your head now. Even I can admit that I sometimes have to throw myself out of and deadbolt the lock to the Land of Make Believe I spend too much time in.

Did I like anything about the results?:

You would expect me to scream NO without thought, but that’s not true. My curls usually shrink after washing, but that was not the case with the henna. I LOVED how it elongated them without erasing the pattern.

I’m nothing if not diplomatic, so I can admit there’s a poss slight possibility that I might have done some things that aided in the aspects that were ineffective.

Possible theories for what went wrong:

1. Unreasonably assumed this was the potion for all my hair needs.Talk about pressure on one little product.

2. I left it on for too long. I hennaed at 6 or 7 pm on Thursday and did not wash it out until almost 1pm on Friday. *Excuse me a minute while I use fingers to do the math* If I didn’t fail kindergarten math, my hair was marinating in the henna for 18 or 19 hours. My assumption was the longer I kept it on, the richer my new color. Assume = Ass + U + Me. Right. Got it.

3. Instead of a deep condition, I did a protein treatment. In my defense, the last time I did this Coconut Milk Protein Treatment it left my hair amazingly soft instead of fantastically strong. I assumed (there’s that word again) I could just add a dash of moisturizing conditioner (Tresemme Naturals with Aloe Vera and Avocado) to the mix to neutralize the effects of the protein in the coconut milk. One of these days I’m going to accept that I am not Madame Curie. Anyway, this might be a case of too much of a good thing (protein).

4. I don’t follow instructions very well. The CurlyNikki tutorial video clearly states “Smoosh the henna through. Try not to manipulate the hair too much.” Of course I took that to mean “Manhandle my hair to make sure each and every single strand is saturated with henna.” I once again made an a _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _. I figured it would work better if each individual strand was coated. Not the case.

Takeaways:

I said it in the post before last that what’s good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander. Henna has been a transformative hair experience for an overwhelming number of women. However, there are those (raising my hand) whose hair remains the same; or, sadly, is made “worse” (raising hand again).

Next Steps:

I am:

a. the bravest woman on this planet

b. an idiot

c. an eternal optimist

d. all of the above

Why the quiz? Because I am actually considering giving henna another try. Please stop sucking your teeth and rolling your eyes. Thanks.

The two reasons I’m considering giving it a try again are:

1. so I can do it without the mistakes from the first application

2. because this process is cumulative. The more you do it, the better the results.

I still have half the box left. I might as well finish it off. The next time around I’ll be more methodical about following the recommended steps. Here’s hoping I don’t end up bald for giving henna another chance. *insert nervous laughter*

I’ll keep you posted when I decide what to do. I’m always interested in hearing your stories. What’s your experience with henna? If you have not tried it, what’s keeping you from buying a seat on the henna bus?

Here are some pics of the immediate wash out results. I was too embarrassed to take pics of all the hair I loss. Pay no attention to the greasy neck.

I’m talking about gelatin (or gelatine). It’s translucent, colorless, flavorless and packs a powerful punch when used on your hair. How? Well gelatin contains high levels of protein that strengthen the hair shaft, protein derived from the collagen inside animals’ skin and bones.  Collagen helps strengthen the tensile strength of your hair. Translation? This means less breakage and stronger strands when combing your hair. And don’t we all want this?

Unlike many of the products on the shelves, gelatin is very affordable (recession or no recession) and it is extremely easy to prepare. A five-year old could prepare it and I’m not kidding. You’ve probably never even looked at the ingredients on a bottle of a strong protein treatment. Take a gander and you’ll find that most of them contain – you guessed it – collagen.

Tutorial to follow.

Ingredients:

Water (Aqua, Eau), Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Fragrance (Parfum), Propylene Glycol, Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Wheat Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinesis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Honey (Mel, Miel), DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 -Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol

WHAT IT PROMISES:

Moisturizes and restore youthful radiance

Adds renewed strength

Helps to restore elasticity

Prevents breakage

Brazilian Tech Keratin Deep Penetrating Conditioning Treatment by One ‘n Only is formulated to keep hair smooth, shiny, and nourished. This high-performance professional line helps restore hair’s natural keratin that may be lost or damaged during routine styling and chemical or color treatments.

Brazilian Tech Deep Penetrating Conditioning Treatment protects hair against heat during thermal styling and keeps hair smooth and shiny. Natural keratin protects hair from structural damage, strengthens and revitalizes damaged, stressed hair. Keratin is the primary protein of the hair. Damage to proteins within the cuticle cortex of the hair fiber is caused by external factors-UV light, environmental radicals, chemical services and styling.

Brazilian Tech Deep Penetrating Conditioning Treatment helps prevent and protect against associated damage by restored the proteins necessary for healthy looking hair. Brazilian Tech Keratin Smoothing Treatment is a deep-penentrating treament that helps improve hair strength.

HOW TO USE: Apply to clean damp hair. Massage in thoroughly. Leave in 2 – 3 minutes.

Recommended for weekly or bi-weekly use. Ideal as a maintainence regimen following a chemical or color service.

VERDICT:

I think this is a good product. My hair was VERY soft and shiny after just the first use. After the second and third use, my hair had some bounce. Whether or not this product is budget-friendly solely depends on where you purchase it. I’ve seen it offered for $6.99 and some stores sell it for $10.99 (which is too much IMO). Rusk has a version of this product and both versions essentially contain the same ingredients. (Rusk Pro Elements Keratin Smoothing Treatment)

Whether or not the concentration of each ingredient is higher or more beneficial in the Rusk version is a mystery to me but you can’t go wrong with either. 

Happy Belated Valentine’s Day all! Hope you had a great day! We are all loved by others but most importantly ourselves.

Aphogee treatment day!

I purchased my treatment from Ricky’s NYC. I had to go to three different stores to find them. I was hoping to purchase the box they sell online for 8.99 but they only had the 4oz bottle treatment. I also purchased the damaged hair shampoo and balance moisturizer all for $25.

Warning: BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN APPLYING THE PROTEIN TREATMENT. It smells pretty bad but the important part is when u are drying your hair. As it dries it will harden. Do not manipulate the hair as it dries and be careful with your hair drying on your clothes as well. If you are unsure about applying it on your own please go to your local salon.

My results were not as I expected. My hair is soft and manageable but my texture did not return. My hair now has about 3 different textures. My roots and certain portions are my natural hair. While most of the hair on my left side are loose curls and my ends are pin straight. With the worst damage is in the front.

I am slowly coming to accept I may have to begin my transition process all over again. It hurts because it’s exactly been a year since I cut off all my chemically processed hair but it will have to be done. Possibly in July once my new growth in the front is longer.

I will continue to do the protein treatment every will until the bottle is done and hey, at least I tried!

Hair style: hair parted in half and each side twisted in. Use plenty of bobby pins and some conditioner on hair.

On Monday I prepared my last bit of molasses with the olive oil and egg. Because the molasses began to crystalize I warmed it a little. After I mixed the olive and eggs in the bowl and prepared my space.

This was my first time using the mixture with eggs since I read a while back since that the egg leaves your hair hard. But after some research I found it is because of the egg protein.

My boyfriend was kind enough to put the mixture in my hair and with a bag over my head I waited about 30 minutes before rinsing. Don’t be scared about the stickiness! Once the water hits your hair it will come off. Let the water hit your head for 5 minutes before you start to wash it all out.

My results: my hair has a little bit more curl definition, especially in the front. I found my roots and inside of my hair to be my actual texture and a bit softer. My ends are still straight so I might cut them in march.

Little by little I will get there!

Up next: the aphogee 2 step protein treatment.

To prepare myself I had to determine the current length of my hair by using heat to semi-straighten my hair. Even though I wasn’t thrilled about the idea, it was nice to have it straightened since I had not flat ironed my hair since July, 2010. So the results are…

My routine will consist of weekly hot oil treatments, shampooing, deep moisturizing conditioner treatments, and a protective style to last until the next wash day. I will determine whether or not a heavy or light protein treatment is necessary every 8 weeks or less depending on the condition of my hair.

It goes without saying that daily moisturizing will also be included in my routine for optimal results. The products I intend to use will consist of: Jamaican black castor oil, olive oil, QP Elasta shampoo, Herbal Essences’ conditioner (Hello hydration or Long term relationship or totally twisted), moisturizing conditioner (Curl rehab or Jessicurl weekly deep conditioner or DPR – 11), Darcy’s Botanical daily leave-in, Darcy’s Madagascar vanilla styling creme and Darcy’s coconut lemongrass transitioning creme.

I will be checking my length again, using the same method, sometime in June.

I started by gently heating a can of coconut milk in a pan on the stove. I dropped in a few chunks of cocoa butter and added a little bit of water to increase the overall amount. I poured this mix in the blender and added in 1/2 Teaspoon each of Hydrolysed Wheat Protein and Silk Amino Acids for an extra protein Kick. My hair really needed it after a month without any kind of protein aside from that which i put in my Leave-In Conditioner.

I turned the blender on and added 1-2 tablespoon of Rhassoul Clay and 2-3 tablespoons of bentonite clay until it was nice and thick. I poured it into a plastic bowl and measured the pH of the mix out of curiosity. It measured a 7, which is fine to use on the hair and scalp as this is within the safer pH range but (you know me) i wanted it closer to the hair’s pH range so added in a 1/4 teaspoon of Citric Acid which lowered it right down to 4.5. Nice. If you don’t have Citric Acid you can use ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) or Aloe vera juice in place of the extra water added which should bring the pH range down.

Once the mix was ready i co-washed and detangled first with Curl Harmony Cleansing Conditioner a section at a time and Clarified with an ACV Rinse. I didn’t rinse out the ACV i just squeezed out the excess. I then applied the Clay Mix a section at a time. There was a lot of mix so i didn’t hold back at all. I really smothered my hair and scalp with it and clipped up each section out of the way. I smoothed some of the left over mix on my face for a nourishing face mask. I left it on for about 30mins.

I rinsed it out a section at a time. I love this clay treatment. It really works wonders for my hair. The extra protein made a difference as my hair felt strengthened, but not hard or wiry. The clay itself is SO EASY to rinse out and it doesn’t leave any grittiness in the hair. My hair felt silky smooth, soft and yet strong. It was great!

For a picture tutorial of how i make and use the Clay Treatment see my previous post Here.

I deep conditioned with my favourite DC Conditioner JASON’s 84% Aloe Vera Conditioner, mixed with a little honey and oil. I applied it a section at a time and covered my hair with a plastic bag. I left it on for about an hour before rinsing it out under cool water. Mmmm Soft. Lovely. lol

I towel dried, smoothed in some leave-in conditioner and Shea Butter mix, Buttered my scalp and braided my hair to air-dry, all a section at a time.

My hair feels wonderful – So soft and silky. What a difference a ‘clay’ makes. lol.

For my previous post on the benefits of Bentonite, Rhassoul Clay and Coconut milk click here.

For some reason, I wanted to get away from that for a bit. I decided to look into light protein treatments. Of course handy-dandy Google hooked me up on tons of info about light protein treatments. What I really wanted to know was if I could add a dollop or 2 of mayo in my moisturizing conditioner and call it a light protein. Imagine my surprise when people start listing their favorite light protein treatments. At the top of the list ORS replenishing pack/conditioner.

This was the conditioner that I purchased on a whim and assumed it was only a moisturizer because of the name “Olive Oil”. So I used it to pre-poo and to DC. WTF? Thank goodness I always saturate my conditioners with oils before I DC so it didn’t dry out my hair or make it nice and crunchy. I still couldn’t believe it so I picked up the bottle and what do you know? Silk amino acids listed as one of the active ingredients. *sigh*

Don’t get me wrong, I intend to still continue using it since I have no complaints but I am a bit upset at myself for not knowing what I was putting in my hair. Because I didn’t know that this was already a light protein, I was considering adding mayo to it or even an egg. It could have killed my hair. Glad I didn’t have to find out the hard way.

Moral of the story? Find out what it is that you are buying before you put it in your hair.

Washing

• Shampoo – there are moisturising and clarifying. Moisturising shampoos are more gentle and less stripping, whereas Clarifying shampoos are designed to really strip the hair of all product build up. ACV (Apple Cider Vinegar) and baking soda are also used to clarify the hair  and scalp of build-up.
• Co-wash – conditioner washing is a way of washing your hair without stripping it of it’s oils. Depending on what conditioner you use will determine how often you will need to clarify your hair. Check out this post http://keepitsimplesista.blogspot.com/2008/02/conditioner-washing.html
• Natural clays/powders – Includes bentonite clay, rhassoul clay and other herbs such as the ayurvedic or indian herbs and are used as alternatives to shampoo to ‘cleanse’ and condition the hair and scalp.

Notes: The question you have to ask and answer for yourself is how often you will wash your hair. The misconception that washing too frequently is damaging for our hair is wrong. Water is excellent for our hair and we should use it to our advantage. It is true, however, that shampooing too often can be drying so it is recommended to limit shampooing to once a week or so depending on the products you use on a daily basis. If you need to wash more frequently then this i would recommend that you consider co-washing. Some women co-wash several times within the week and  shampoo once a week, clarifying once a month. Some women co-wash once a week and shampoo once a month only to clarify their hair. But washing hair often, in whatever capacity you choose, is an excellent habit to  get into. A clean hair and scalp will thrive considering all other parts of the regime are complementary.

Tips:
*Wash your hair in sections and braid or twist each section to avoid shrinkage and/or tangling. Since i started doing this, washing my hair is much less of a hassle.
*Pre-poo (pre shampoo) treatments are excellent for coating your hair and counteracting the drying effects of shampooing. Use oils and or conditioner of choice apply it to your hair liberally and put on a shower cap. Cover with a headscarf or wrap of choice and leave overnight. Wash hair the following day. If you forget to pre-poo overnight then a couple of hours before washing is still really good.

Conditioning

Notes: Finding the balance between moisture and protein is a personal issue but generally the signs are as follows, if your hair is brittle and snaps easily it’s a sign that it needs moisture so deep condition more, whereas if your hair feels mushy and has little elasticity it is a sign that your hair needs protein. Most naturals do a protein treatment once a month, more if their hair is dyed.

Moisturising

MOISTURE EQUALS WATER

• Ready-made – Look for products that contain water (aqua) as the first ingredient as water is the only true moisturiser.
• Home-made – There are several ways to incorporate more moisture into your hair. Spritzing is an easy way to do this. Whether it be made up of only water or whether it includes oils, humectants such as glycerine and floral waters such as rose-water, it’s a great way to add moisture. Just add the ingredients into a spray bottle, shake and spritz. Simple.

Sealing

Sealing the hair is to ‘seal’ in the moisture that you have put into it from the previous step. It traps the water and nutrients on the hair shaft, slowing down the evaporation of the water based moisturizer. It keeps the moisture on the hair shaft longer.

• Ready-made – Look for moisturisers that are oil based. That have oil as the main ingredient and does not contain water.
• Oils – thicker oils such as castor oil are good for this. Jojoba oil does not penetrate the hair shaft making it a good sealer. Coconut oil can also be used as it partially penetrates. Olive oil and avocado oil penetrate all the way into the hair shaft and are best used in conjunction with other oils to ensure good sealing.
• Butters – Such as Shea butter can be used with excellent results. Good for those with thick or very dry hair (such as mine). Choose a good butter that is rich in nutrients and imparts softness to the hair.

Extras

Other factors you may want to consider are how, when and what you use to comb/brush your hair. Keep combing to a minimum as much as possible and if it’s completely necessary add moisture to your hair to make it flexible. Most naturals only comb/brush to detangle their hair when it is saturated with conditioner during washing and at all other times ‘finger’ comb using their fingers only. Don’t over comb as this can cause unnecessary breakage and split ends.

Depending on your own ethics, you will decide which products to use and whether it’s a concern of yours to stay away from certain chemicals. Personally i try to stay away from too much chemicals and am focusing on using natural hair care products that are mineral oil/petroleum, parabens and silicone free as much as possible.

I will refer you to the following post on Black Hair Planet to give you further help on building a good hair care routine.

Regime building template -
http://www.blackhairplanet.com/blog/regimen-building-natural-hair/

A good friend of mine told me how good coconut milk is on the hair and how protein rich it is. I was also told about using bentonite clay on hair and how good it is so i thought i would combine the two treatments together to make a coconut clay treatment. So here’s what i did on my wash day:

• The night before i did an oil treatment using my oil mix, sectioning my hair into four and applying oil and then twisting the sections. I put a plastic bag over my head and then wrapped my headscarf round my head and went to bed.
• I shampooed my hair using Aubrey Organics J.A.Y Revitalising Shampoo for dry/damaged hair concentrating on my scalp mostly, rinsed and then final rinsed with ACV diluted in water. About 1/4 cup ACV to 500ml of water. I didn’t wash out the ACV but left it on my hair as i went to prepare the bentonite clay.
• Things needed are: Bentonite clay, Rhassoul clay, Coconut milk, water, Olive oil, Cocoa butter, blender/hand blender, pot.
• First, i added about 200ml of coconut milk to the pan and about the same of water and warmed it gently on the stove. Whilst it was warming i added in a chunk of cocoa butter and let the heat of the milk melt it. Then i added in some olive oil.
• I put the milk mix into the blender and turned it on low. I added 1 tablespoon of Rhassoul clay and then slowly added in 2-3 tablespoons of bentonite clay until the mix was just a bit thicker than the thickest yoghurt.
• This is what it looked like. I immediately rinsed out my blender as i did not want the clay to tarnish the metal blades. With the clay mixed i went back upstairs to continue with my wash routine.
• I applied Herbal Essences Hello Hydration and detangled using the Denman brush by taking one section at a time untwisting, brushing, rinsing and retwisting.
• I towel dried my hair and one section at a time took down the twist and applied the clay mix to my hair. I tried to make sure i really covered my scalp with the mix as well.
• I also applied it to my face as i know bentonite clay is really good for the skin. If you suffer from acne then i would do this with caution as there are oils in the mix.
• I left it on for about 15 mins and then rinsed it out, making sure i retwisted the section once fully rinsed.
• I deep conditioned with JASON’S 84% Aloe Vera conditioner mixed with honey, macadamia oil and avocado oil. I left it on for about 2 hours with a plastic bag over my head.
• I rinsed out the DC without taking down the twists, towel dried, applied my leave-in conditioner, shea pomade and hair oil, oiled my scalp with the pomade and braided my hair into four large braids to dry.

Notes – I really don’t like the way my hair feels after i shampoo it. It feels so striped. It’s dry and squeaky and horrible. I notice this as soon as i rinse out the shampoo. I tried to make sure i just shampooed my scalp but inevitably it got into my hair and striped it. I’m really starting to reconsider shampoo in my regular regime as i don’t think my hair likes it very much. What i’ll do is i’ll try using a different shampoo next time and see if that is the cause. If there’s no difference in feel then i think i’ll shampoo only occasionally and use the herbs, ACV and the clays to cleanse my hair.

Also, next time i’ll definitely leave the clay mix in my hair for bit longer, maybe 30 to 45 mins and see if i can get an even better result. When i was rinsing out the clay my hair felt so good, nourished and conditioned but on the inside. I can’t quite explain it but i know my hair liked it lots. The coconut milk really strengthened my hair whilst the oils conditioned and the clay’s removed any impurities and also added essential minerals into my strands.

I’ll probably follow this post with the benefits of each clay and coconut milk.

I bought the Rhassoul clay from Sheabutter Cottage
The Bentonite clay i bought from Naturally Green

A Friday night, I decided to do it. I got all of my ingredients and whipped them up in the kitchen:

• a couple of tablespoons of mayonnaise
• a dollop of honey
• some oils including castor oil and olive oil

You can see that I’m not really one for exact measurements when I make some of these mixtures. I mixed everything up and took it upstairs to the bathroom to apply it to my hair in sections and then braided it. The mix was a bit watery, so it was getting everywhere: running down my face and back, on the floor, in the sink, on the mirror, etc. I finally got it all on my hair and I covered it up with two plastic caps.

I smelled like a Subway sub — I was not impressed, but if it’s good for my hair, I’ll do it. I was trapped in my bathroom because the mixture was so watery, I was scared to wander too far and hear the Hubby fret that I was leaking mayonnaise around the house.

After about 30 minutes, I went to detangle and wash it out. It felt like there was a film on my hair — I’m wondering if it’s not  from my hair products mixing with the treatment. Detangling wasn’t as easy as it normally is, but my hair did feel a bit stronger. I co-washed, did the routine and styled.

My twist-out came out well — a little dull in colour and it felt filmy to me. I’m not sure, but I think I still smelled a little like Subway…

Would I do it again? Definitely, it did make my hair feel stronger. I think I’ll redo this next weekend before I get my braids in. I’ll add some more oils to help me detangle and I’ll wash with my castile shampoo after to remove any residue. Now that I have my heat cap, I’ll deep condition after. I’m sure that will make a difference in the outcome.

What about you, readers? Have you tried any mayo protein treatments? Did you like, not like them?

As a licensed chemical technician and certified keratin treatment specialist, I recommended our Keratin Smoothing Treatment to fortify her weakened hair and uniformly smooth out the texture. As the treatment consists of high levels of proteins her hair was improved both inside and out.

After years of feeling dissatisfied with her hair, she was finally able to have super shiny, even textured, smooth and strong hair. She no longer needs to use a flat iron and now has healthy “wash and go” hair.

For more information on our Keratin Smoothing Treatment service, color, or to book an appointment or free consultation with Paola, call Cristiano Cora Studio at 212.414.1333.

“This unique treatment is formulated with magnesium and modified proteins which fuse into the hair with the application of heat. The result is that breakage is drastically reduced. ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment is a salon service product unlike any product available for at-home use. During the process, ApHogee treatment hardens into the hair, dramatic evidence that something special is occurring. For best results a hooded dryer is required. After rinsing and moisturizing with ApHogee Balancing Moisturizer, clients are astounded with the results. ApHogee Two-Step Protein Treatment can help improve other salon services as well.

This remedial process is highly recommended for hair that:  is too weak or fine to take a perm or relaxer (use the week PRIOR to service);  is over-bleached;  will not hold color (use PRIOR to color application);  Breaks when combed or brushed;  and/or is mushy when wet and brittle after drying.”

Why I love it: I bought this product at the behest of the makeupalley.com hair board after pleading with them for a miracle product to fix my sticky, porous, brittle hair, a product of overuse of evil Sun-In while at the beach and daily heat-styling. My hair was damaged from the tips to four inches below the roots– I would have had to have a bowl-cut if I wanted to cut out all the damage to prevent it from spreading further! There was no way I would allow this to happen.

Enter Aphogee. After shampooing my hair with Aphogee’s Shampoo for Damaged Hair, I shook up the Aphogee Two-Step Reconstructor and generously applied the yellow, watery product with my hands  (warning:  it smells like floral dirty kitty litter, but its totally worth it!). I used a wide-tooth comb to distribute it evenly through-out my hair, making sure the extra-damaged areas were thoroughly soaked. When my hair was combed into a position where I felt comfortable with it stay that way, I turned on my hair dryer with the setting on hot, but the fan on low. You do not want your hair to move at all once it starts becoming hard, as it may break more (although slight movements didn’t seem to harm my hair). The heat from the hairdryer bakes the protein into the damaged areas of the strands. Once the hair can’t get any harder (generally after an hour or two), rinse it out in the shower, and apply a very thick, deep conditioner. Leave in the deep conditioner for 5-15 mnutes with a towel wrapped around your head. Use the wide-tooth comb when you’re rinsing it out to detangle it. Let your hair air-dry; don’t heat-style afterwards– give your poor, damaged hair a break– and wait to see the miraculous change in your hair!

My hair was almost completely repaired! There is such an incredible difference in my hair that I can barely tell it was ever damaged. Its a little rough in the places that were incredibly damaged, but there was a 90% improvement in my hair. I’ll continue using the product monthly until the damage has grown out enough to be cut off. I’d highly recommend this product to ANYONE with brittle or sticky hair that is prone to breakage. It brought my hair from the brink of disaster!

(I really wish I took before and after pics of my hair because there is a visible difference in the amount of roughness/frizz/damage to the cuticle of the hair shaft.  My hair is super-shiny and smooth now!)

Where to buy it (and how much): Sally’s Beauty Supply or any other hair supply store for $19.99 for 16 oz bottle or about $5.99 for a 4 oz bottle.