As Liverpool were sliding down the table we climbed up a mountain today and rather childishly slid down it on our backsides. There was even some human bobsleigh action going on. All in all very satisfying and now we are waiting to relax in some natural springs…anybody got and Radox? A more detailed and less romantic tale coming soon.

At the start

On our backsides

Bariloche to Pucon.

This morning we are on the way to Pucon, Chile. Yesterday we failed (not without trying) to pre book tickets to Orsorno. From there we would get a bus to Pucon. That was the plan anyway. We tried online, calling their office and even taking a cab to the bus station in Bariloche the night before but no luck. With the lack of ticket in hand we decided to keep faith and adopt the simple strategy of get early and get the first bus out of town.

We arrived at the bus terminal next morning over an hour before our bus was due to leave. It was  quiet and the bus company office window is not yet open for business. There is nobody in the queue for tickets so no rush we think. Time to purchase Oreo’s for breakfast as options were limited.  A short while later a solitary traveller waiting for the same bus waits in the queue. No rush still it seems, it’s quiet. We’re in the queue now ready to buy our tickets. 20 minutes to go but no sign of the salesman. Finally after 10 minutes we have service and our solo traveller purchases his ticket. I ask for mine, two to be precise. Don’t think he understands. I must have slipped into ‘brummy’. A negative hand gesture suggests it’s not good news. Counting the fingers he has up and making out his actions, it turns out there’s only one ticket left. But there’s two of us. Do the math.

This situation was  a tad frustrating as not only could we have beaten the other traveller to both tickets,  we’d seen an earlier bus go towards our destination but we decided to choose this company as they were Chilean and thought it may have been easier with them to proceed onto our Chilean destination.

Determined to get out of Bariloche we found another bus company that went to another destination but was also a hub to get the connection to Pucon. All wasn’t lost and we had some faith restored, especially as when we boarded we found that the bus would actually arrive in Los Andes de San Martin earlier than expected and this gave us renewed hope as that would. put us in a strong position to  catch the connecting bus to Pucon.

After a 4 hr bus ride trying to sleep, read and master the art of spending a penny on moving bus – a possible Olymipic event one day (balance, timing, co-ordination) we arrived at San Martin de Los Andes.  In military fashion we split up the responsibilities. ’You keep an eye on the bags and I’ll go get answers’. At the bus information window more  negative hand gestures revealed that the next bus to Pucon was the next morning! Cue sad faces.  We thought for a second about spending the nite and getting the next bus in the morning but why spend money on another hotel when another is waiting for you? Pucon was a well known destination so we felt confident that some buses would be going that afternoon from somewhere…

Luckily our sad faces generated a response from a few locals. A kind gent told us to get a bus back one stop and then get a car to the border. He said that would be ok, We believed him as he nodded his head in a confident manner. This was promising even if we only got to the border we’d be able to reach out and touch the country. Shortly after stocking up on cheesypuffs (what else?) we caught a bus back to Junin bus station. A bit strange to go back but in life you do that. Go backwards to go forwards, right?o

At Junin bus station. Repeat of military action: ‘You keep an eye on the bags and i’ll go get answers’. We prompty got a cab (probably because this was no ordinary minimum fare) to the border. What will await us? A bus to take us to our hotel? A policeman telling us to go back? A fanfare?

About 30 minutes later and some beautiful scenary we are at the border (my first land border experience) of this no nonsense operation. We searched for more solutions to getting to Pucon which was still miles away. It all looks a but serious here. Better not ask anybody to smile in my pictures. Second thoughts, best not take ANY pictures. Again speaking broken Spanish and interpretting hand signals (of the negative kind which was getting repetitive) our taxi driver revealed he was not able to take us past the border in Chile as you need a license to do that. We needed to work something out.   After a few obligitary flicks of the passport and pretend checking we got the rewarding sound of a stamp. Progress anyway. Since we weren’t walking distance from Pucon we politey asked in the office if anybody could take us direct.

Our luck was in as somebody could…fir $100. A bloke from the back (and not in military uniform) wearing a baseball cap answered our request promptly in exchange for this hard cash. He must be off duty or on dress down thursday. They must have saw us coming – from across the border with that kind of price. Either way we had quite literally a ‘get out of Argentina and into Chile plan’.

Mr baseball cap seemed to have a few jovial exchanges with his fellow colleagues probably along the lines of ‘Empanadas are on me tonite lads’ but we didn’t care. We did our best to negotiate a price and knocked it down by a few dollars. We could play this game too. Now take us to your Pucon!

Great, finally being driven directly to our hostel. Moving across the magical line (free now to snap away) in Chile. Driving through the national park which is literally on the border took over 30 mins on a bumpy road. We managed to pick up a passenger en route and passed the time to learn a little  about our new driver. He’s been to Switzerland and likes ‘LonDon!’ and now we are providing him with s free English lesson. Edging finally towards Pucon.

Eventually 70 minutes later we reach our destination and right on cue where we are greeted with a warm welcome.

For the first time in the trip we felt like real travellers minus the dreadlocks. We hadn’t eaten a proper meal (not even breakfast) unless you couht Oreo’s and Cheesy puffs. I was unshaven, bleary eyed, but nienow content with an overwhelming sense of satisfaction that we’d made it to our destination. Simple really.

Quite disappointed that the climb on Volcan Villarica was cancelled, I went off to the local bus station to catch a bus [3400] to the Huerquehue National Park. The ride went past some picturesque sites with some views of Villarica and other nearby mountains. Entrance fee 4000CLP. The weather was still good as a group of people started the walk. I was with two others and joined up with anothe couple. It is essentially a forest walk, through woodlands and some coastal walks. he is no guide route but all we knew was that the bus will return a 2.10pm and the last bus at 5.10pm. There were many Araucaria trees. I enjoyed a coastal walk along the lakes. As the walk continued, the weather became a little chilly. The forest floors was covered with thickets of bamboos and more views of snow-covered mountains. Crossed some high passes. By late afternoon, it started to rain and in places the forest floor was covered with snow. A few lakes including Tilchillo, Chico and Verde. At lunch, it was already cloudy, dark, raining and getting much colder. It was a wonderful  walk minus the cold wind at open places and the continuous rain.  The park ranger just waved us not to rush. We made it back to the park’s entrance but was late by 5 minutes to catch the 2.10pm bus. We were all cold and just wanted to get some hot drinks, but non available. We walked down the main road and found Rapa Nui cafe.  The lady with her daughters were really kind and accommodating. It was really a good feeling and out of the cold as well. The room was heated and hot coffee in my hand. I wasn’t going anywhere in a hurry. Just then, I pondered over the decision to discontinue the climb up Volcan Villarica, I felt good and safe and appreciated Aguaventura’s foresight. I wondered about those whom had gone out that day. The mountain was not happy that late afternoon onwards. Caught the 5.10pm bus back to Pucon. 

Joined a local half day tour [15000] visiting the various sites including a waterfall in a forested area, Carbunga Lake and towards the end to a thermal spa pool. Sometimes it was really good to let some do the planning and drive around. I would certainly suggest to go the thermal pools to rest those tired and not to mention, smelly legs. 

I enjoyed Pucon with it cafe lined streets and it surrounding greenery and beauty with a volcano as the backdrop. Tomorrow, I am off to cross the Andes into Argentina to the lake district town of San Martin.

20.10.09 – 23.10.09

I spent a rest day at Santiago just to reorganise and catch my breath. I find it useful and it help me to prepare fo the next journey. I had just completed my northern leg – warm and sunny climate and had a wonderful experience of the Andes mountains in Chile, Peru and Bolivia. In most parts, the Andes Mountain were barren, brown , dry and hot. I had planned it such that by doing this leg first, the southern leg would get warmer as the weather was changing from winter to spring. Out came the winter gear – thermals, woollen socks, beanies, sunblock, rain and windproof gear and so on.

Caught a Tur bus [9000CLP] to Pucon. The main roads ran parallel to the Andes chain and the Pacific Ocean. It is a narrow strip. Mainly agrarian, vast farmlands. Met with Mr Davil whom sat beside me. Initially, there was no conversation but once out of Santiago, we got talking. He was an engineer or technician with a telecommunication company. He was going to Talca, about 3hrs south of Santiago, to do some work. Everytime we passed any antennas high on the mountains he would point it out to me. Construction by helicopter, the days he took to climbing to reach some places. We talked about football, girls, politics, mountains, more  and girls. He pointed out the various plants that were cultivated as we drove past horticultural areas and fruit orchards. He was a full of humor and with a great smile. He was in his 60’s and doesn’t look like he wants to retire for economic reasons. We bid farewell after his 3hour journey. I was alone again all the way to Pucon, a 12hour journey. Why is this story personal, we had this conversation only in Spanish, my limited vocab, with the aid of a dictionary,  and four weeks of conversation Spanish!

As the journey progressed with the sun setting behind me, we entered in a wooded area. The views became more interesting and I knew somewhere out there was the conical snow-covered peak of Mt Orsono. In the distant I could see heavy mist or steam bubbling up into the air. First I thought we had arrived at a thermal area. Then the views of a nearby lake. It had started to rain. As the bus stumbled into the little town surrounded by a forested area, I soon realised that it was smoke from wood fires pouring out of the chimneys of the resident homes in the town of Villarica. The thought in my mind was, yes it was going to be a cold leg of my journey but not immediately. The views although clouded by the constant rain was pretty. The setting amongst the trees gave Villarica a tranquil feeling with the lake adding more charm and character to it. It was already dusk. 

Another 30 minutes journey, I was in Pucon. It was raining heavier and cold. I quickly looked into my guide-book to find a place to sleep. A friendly Jimena,  in her mid-thirties, approached me and offered a place to stay. I accepted. My room came with a complete kitchen, tiled and porcilen bathtub and a lounge for 7000CLP [as there was no one else], Hostal Alicia on Calle Brasil. It was a cabana. In the rain I explored a little of Pucon, in the Chilean lake districts. There were unusually large number of stray dogs on the streets. It was an unpleasant sight with dogs looking for food, shivering and looking fo a warm place to lie down.

The following day, the sun shone brightly. It took me by surprise when ,just outside my hostel, a conical white mountain gleaming in the sunlight  arose just behind the backyard. The close proximity of this mountain, Mt Villarica, astounded me. I was mesmerised by it. Soon I noticed white smoke rising form it perfect cone, it is an active volcanic mountain. I had planned to climb it. It was a great start to the day. Strolled into town in the chilly breeze. The streets were lined with cafe, bars, restaurants , travel and tourism agents. Most if not all the building were constructed with wood.  It reminded me to Queenstown in new Zealand’s South Island. I immediately got a liking to Pucon. Walked on the black sandy shores of Lago Villarica. It was perfect – a giant white smoking mountain, a neat little town and a beautiful lake. The downside, plentiful of stray dogs roaming the streets.

I signed up with an agent to climb Mt Villarica the following day bu was informed that it may not be good weather. He quickly informed me that today was the perfect day to climb. I was too late. The team left at 7am. I registered and checked the gear in anticipation of the following days’ climb, weather permitting.The next dawn, with full of enthusiasm and interest, I was out on the street around 6.15am. All the shops were closed, no one on the streets- it was silent  except stray dogs for company.  Mt Villarica looked very cold and the top was clear. I was happy. Soon clouds covered the lower part with a thick band on its’ cone.  The company, Aguaventura,  staff arrived and gave me a grim picture but there was time.They checked the latest setalite weather and physically looked a the mountain. We all stood around just reading the mood of the mountain. The word was out, todays’ climb had been cancelled. The deposit was refunded in full. There were two other trekkers signed in as well. We were disappointed but accepted the agent word about the weather. Not withstanding that, I asked about the possibility on the ollowing day. Th weather was predicted to be worse. That put an end to my quest to climb a living volcanic mountain. Perhaps another day. Strangely, I could see other companies loading their guest and off to the volcano. In my mind, I did question Aguaventura’s decision not to proceed. When thing don’t work out, there is always plan B – trekking at a national park.

19.10.09 – 21.10.09

Neste site você encontrará fotos e informações sobre a viagem de carro que realizados em junho de 2009, saindo de Pelotas/RS e percorrendo Uruguai, Argentina e Chile. Foram 21 dias de viagem totalizando 8539Km rodados.

Nosso objetivo é contribuir com todas as informações necessárias para ajudar outras pessoas a planejar uma viagem de carro como esta.

Aqui você encontrará tudo o que precisa para organizar sua viagem:

• Documentação e itens obrigatórios
• Dica de roteiro
• Orientações sobre como dirigir na neve e uso das cadenas
• Combustível no Chile, Argentina e Uruguai
• Corrupção da polícia
• Dinheiro / Saques em caixas eletrônicos no exterior
• Fronteiras
• GPS e mapas digitais
• Ligações telefônicas internacionais
• O que levar

Em nosso Diário de Viagem você poderá ler sobre o dia à dia da viagem e ver as fotos que tiramos.

Você pode navegar por todo o conteúdo do site através da barra na lateral direita das páginas.

Nos posts abaixo você encontrará dicas de sites na internet que possuam fotos e informações sobre nossos próximos destinos.

Seja bemvindo!

“A natureza foi bondosa com PUCÓN. Todo ano, milhares de pessoas vão a ela para subir o Volcán Villarrica, andar a cavalo pelas encostas do vulcão, no Parque Nacional Villarrica, fazer canoagem nas corredeiras do rio Trancura, caminhar pelas florestas mais afastadas do Parque Nacional Huerquehue, pescar nos rios cristalinos ou se banhar nas diversas estações termais à volta da cidade”
(do guia Rough Guide, Chile)

Pucón é uma cidadezinha localizada no sul do Chile. Eu tinha ouvido falar um pouco do lugar, até a Lu Ferreira ir e me deixar louca de vontade de conhecer. Como estávamos planejando ficar quase dez dias no país, achei que seria uma boa idéia ficarmos um pouco em Santiago e viajarmos o restante do tempo para o sul, para conhecermos mais lugares característicos, que tivessem um DNA mais chileno e que fugissem um pouquinho do clima cosmopolita da capital.

Pedi umas dicas à própria Lu, que foi uma fofa e nos deu boas sugestões: achar um hotel perto da Av. B. O’Higgins, a principal da cidade, ir ao vulcão, a uma terma, e passar um dia mais tranquilo na cidade, fazendo passeio de barco no lago e visitando a praia de areia preta. Ela também me contou que havia várias agências nessa avenida principal, e que valia muito a pena negociar, que os preços caíam MESMO (fica a dica!).

Depois de pesquisar bastante, acabei achando uma pousada superfofa a um quarteirão da O’Higgins, chamada Geronimo. Júlio ficou resistente no início, achando que ela parecia pobrinha, mas no fim acabou vencido pelo cansaço (eu também não estava no escuro, néam? tinha visto críticas boas no Lonely Planet e no Trip Advisor, e olha que os viajantes costumam ser bem cricris!). Depois ele deu o braço a torcer e reconheceu que eu fiz uma boa escolha, e aproveito aqui para deixar o lugar mais do que recomendado: a pousada é muito acolhedora, tudo é bonitinho e bem cuidado, tem tevê a cabo (com mil canais, incluindo globo internacional e tudo!), aquecedor, lareira na sala de estar, computador com internet livre, um mini bar… enfim, o mínimo necessário para uma estadia confortável e aconchegante.

Administrada pela simpática Johana (que tem uma filha recém-casada com um gaúcho!), tem serviço gentil e o atencioso Mauricio, funcionário dedicado que prepara um café da manhã delicioso para os hóspedes assim que acordam (com huevitos, pão quentinho e suco fresco, fofo!). As tarifas não são baratésimas, mas são bem ok, se comparadas com grandes hotéis: pagamos cerca de R$150 a diária do casal, no melhor quarto da casa, com varanda e vista para o vulcão.

areia preta

Mas o vulcão… bem, esse ficou restrito ao Google Earth. Infelizmente pegamos uma semana de tempo bem ruim no país: no dia em que chegamos, choveu torrencialmente o tempo todo, impeditivo até para sair do quarto, então aproveitamos para colocar o sono em dia. No restante do tempo em que ficamos na cidade (três dias no total) o tempo ficou chuvoso ou encoberto, e tão fechado que não dava para ver o tal vulcão nem de longe (!!). Por isso não conseguimos fazer o passeio até lá nem ir às termas - a maioria delas é aberta e não estávamos na vibe de enfrentar o frio cortante de maiô! Mas uma dica que o simpático Enrique, do Mancini de Santiago, nos deu, foi para visitarmos as Termas Geométricas: ele disse que era o melhor passeio que poderíamos fazer por lá (se alguém puder ir, depois me conta!).

Já os passeios sugeridos que conseguimos fazer foram conhecer a praia de areia preta, chamada Playa Grande (que, apesar de parecer areia, é como se fosse um tipo de cascalho beem fininho) e a marina dos barcos, que fica na outra praia da cidade, La Poza. São lugares bem diferentes e bonitos, que valem a pena. A cidade é super pequeninha e em menos de uma hora conseguimos conhecer tudo a pé (com um perro muito simpático que nos acompanhou o trajeto todo). Achei que ela tem um clima muito de cidade de inverno, com casinhas características e vegetação amarelada, mas, de acordo o que nos foi informado, a tal praia de areia preta é uma espécie de balneário local, e a cidade fica mesmo superlotada e badalada durante o verão: fecham as ruas, há mointa gente circulando e carros abertos com som alto (tá, esse último não me contaram e eu imaginei, baseada no verão do litoral paulista, haha).

Como o tempo não colaborou e o sol mal deu as caras, um passeio que acabamos fazendo foi ao cassino: eu nunca tinha entrado em um e, se você estiver numa vibe Amaury Jr. (nós estávamos! haha) e a fim de um passatempo indoors, é diversão garantida! A entrada, permitida apenas para maiores de 18 anos (eu sei porque me pediram RG!), custa 500 pesos chilenos (cerca de R$2), e você pode tentar a sorte nas muitas máquinas espalhadas. Como nós temos sorte no amor e não no jogo (rá!), não saímos milionários, mas até que ganhamos uns troquinhos e no final quase ficou elas por elas.

Pucón tem ruas simétricas, movimentadas e arborizadas, com lojas, restaurantes e cafés. O povo é bastante atencioso, e o artesanato local é o mapuche.

Já na nossa primeira refeição descobrimos o restaurante que se tornou top favorito (comemos umas duas ou três vezes lá!): o Trawen (Av. O’Higgins, 311) tem a decoração cheia de personalidade, que remete a uma taverna mais moderninha. A comida é de veg-friendly e de ótima qualidade (pimenta fresca, azeite bom, pães integrais, ingredientes orgânicos), o serviço é supersimpático, a música é agradável… e tem uma lareira com sofá no canto, onde dá vontade de se jogar a tarde toda para ler o jornal! Em cima tem uma área mais reservada para grupos maiores, que deve ser ótima para quando estamos com amigos. Os preços não são muito em conta, mas mantêm a média do restante do Chile. Super recomendo!

Outro bom achado foi o Il Fiore (Av. O’Higgins, 291), onde aproveitamos o menú al día num almoço: como citei anteriormente, é uma espécie de menu executivo local e que sai com preços bem convidativos: comemos super bem (entrada de salada fresquinha, uma taça de vinho, um prato de carne com batatas e uma ótima sobremesa) por cerca de R$30 por pessoa! O ambiente é mais sofisticado e contemporâneo, mas o serviço foi igualmente gentil. Ótima escolha!

No final, vieram com a gente um montão de lembranças boas, de um povo gentil e de uma cidadezinha fofa que eu tomei como minha por alguns dias. E ficou a vontade de experimentar a cidade no verão, como nos cartões postais espalhados pelas lojinhas de souvenirs: cheia de flores coloridas e com um vulcão lindo e fumegante ao fundo. 

+ informações:

- site oficial da cidade

- ‘roteiros de 1ºC a 15ºC’, da Folha

- ‘Chile: aos pés do vulcão’, da Revista da Folha

Fronteira Chile x Argentina

Hoje foi um dia inteiro dedicado a viajar… eu e a Julia, a holandesa que conheci no hostel, pegamos o ônibus em Pucón rumo a Bariloche. Nós só nao esperávamos que a viagem tivesse tantas “escalas”.

Quando subimos os Andes para cruzar a fronteira com a Argentina, uma surpresa: a neve. A estrada estava cheia de gelo e nós tivemos que descer duas vezes por causa dos trâmites de imigraçao.

7 horas depois, chegamos a San Martin de Los Andes, uma cidade linda, gelada, onde tínhamos que esperar por 2h (incluindo a mudança de fuso horário) o outro ônibus. Aproveitamos para tentar trocar dinheiro – o que nao conseguimos – e fomos comer umas empanadas e tomar cerveja com dólares mesmo, dela por acaso.

Pegamos o outro ônibus e viajamos mais 5h até uma cidade antes de Bariloche, onde tivemos que trocar de ônibus novamente e depois de mais 20 minutos chegamos a cidade, já às 22h. A cidade parece linda, mas nem se fala do frio…

Fomos direto de taxi ($12 – US$3.5) até o Hostel Below 41, onde vamos pagar $45 – US$12 em quarto compartilhados com outras 5 pessoas. Mas o hostel é bem bonito, quentinho, animado e cheio de estrangeiros. Quando chegamos já tinha um pessoal tomando cerveja ao lado da lareira. Ótimo!

Saímos para jantar – a cidade é bem cara - e encontramos um bar onde vendia um combo: pizza + cerveja por $26 – US$8. Pronto! Comemos lá mesmo! Por hoje é isso, amanha vamos conhecer a cidade, comprar algumas coisas e ver se encontramos um tour para esquiar na quarta.

Valeu

Viajei quase 12h de Santiago até ao sul, Pucón, para ver de perto o Vulcão Villarica… mas ao chegar na cidade, a decepção: estava chovendo tanto, que só dava pra ver o pé do vulcão, o topo estava coberto pelas nuvens e assim ficou o dia todo. Mas tirando isso, a viagem foi incrível. Peguei um daqueles ônibus de 2 andares e, no andar de baixo, eram os assentos semi-leito. Então vim na mordomia, com uma poltrona enorme, que deitava, com cobertor, aquecimento e travesseiro, além de café da manhã incluso. Muito bom!

Pucón é uma cidade incrível, com casinhas de madeira e cheiro de lenha queimada das lareiras, já que a temperatura ficou o dia todo por volta de 7 graus. Uma coisa que chama atenção nas ruas são as placas de evacuação em caso de erupção vulcânica e um semáforo na prefeitura que fala do risco de erupção. O verde quer dizer que só há fumaça, o amarelo diz que há pequenos tremores e liberação de enxofre, e o vermelho… corra, lá vem lava!

Cheguei e logo na rodoviária uma moça oferecia hospedagem. Isso é o bom de mochileiro não fazer reservas, pois fui com ela conhecer o hostel Emalafquén ($6000 – US$12), que na realidade era uma “hospedaje”, como dizem aqui: uma casa de família que reserva quartos pros hóspedes. O lugar é lindo, uma casinha de madeira e eu optei pelo quarto compartilhado. Mas como a cidade está vazia por causa das chuvas do inverno, não chegou mais ninguém. No outro quarto estava a Julia, uma holandesa que está viajando há 3 meses e que também está sozinha.

Como eu estava triste por não poder subir o vulcão,  nem mesmo vê-lo, tive que arrumar uma atividade pra não perder o dia e nós dois fomos a uma agência contratar um tour ($15000 – US$30) para o que fosse possível com chuva. Foi bem legal, fomos conhecer um rio que vem do degelo da neve do vulcão (el rio Turbio), os Ojos de Caburga, Laguna Azul, Lago de Caburga e as Termas Quimeyco, um lugar incrível, onde entramos – inclusive com o guia – numa piscina aberta com águas ferventes vindas do vulcão. Ao lado passava um rio gelado. Imaginem pra sair da água quente? Quase morremos de frio!

Lago de Caburga

E foi assim… à noite, a chuva espantou uma saída, só mesmo uma voltinha pelas lojas e um pulo no supermercado pra fazer um risoto. Amanhã saímos às 9h45 pra San Martin de Los Andes, já na Argentina, e de lá vamos direto a Bariloche. A chegada deve ser umas 21h, então o dia será meio perdido na estrada. A passagem foi cara, $21000 ou US$38, mas lá vamos nós!

Valeu, obrigado!

Three days of walking; one three day hike through the woods.

Huerquehue National Park is a beautiful place covered with interesting pines and bamboo. The sole volcano in the distance gives a glow of ownership to the land every time you catch a glimpse through the canopy.

For hours upon hours we walked through trees at times dense then sparse, then dense again. Across ridges and over creeks and streams, carefully picking out a rocks to use as bridges. Two by fours and freshly fallen branches guided our feet as we slowly ascended and descended over and over again; sleeping bags, pots and our tent haphazardly strapped to our bags dangled like tails behind us.
The struggle up the mountain that lied ahead of us was filled with beautiful look outs, waterfalls and the main attractions– the lakes. The first three hours of walking gave us an opportunity to see the amazing Lago Chico and Laguna El Toro. Although these lakes probably aren’t considered the most spectacular in the world, they did add to the playfully elegant atmosphere of the park, like watching a very pretty, off-balanced ballerina enjoying a dance she will never, truly master.

After an almost painfully easy two hour walk through the lakes, with one still sitting momentarily inaccessible to the left, we started our next rise and fall over the peak that would end with our camp. One foot after another, we slowly made it up the majority of the peak until we came upon a ridge that opened up to the burning mid-afternoon sun. It was as if we had been walking underground for hours, hidden in the dark, finally to dig ourselves out. As the sun, high in the sky, impaired our vision, the first sign of our temporary home became apparent: an orange tent appeared in a small clearing at the foot of the peak we were walking around.

With our minds filled with a new exuberance and our bodies still operating on nothing but a single banana and weak tea carrying an extra fifty pounds on our backs, we moved quickly down. Again, we found ourselves cool under the cover of leaves, once in awhile catching site of the orange tent.

Upon reaching the site, our stomachs growled with new intensity. With fervor, we had the tent popped, wood gathered, a fire started, and hot dogs roasting on our bamboo spit. We sat around the fire eating our campers’ dinner with stale bread while drinking pisco and coke. As the water boiled around our eggs, the next days breakfast, we played rummy basking in the glow of the coals. The sky was almost white with stars and the silence nearly annoyed with the cackle of our laughter.

The first night was harsh and bitter. In our borrowed tent and shared sleeping bag, we struggled to stay asleep for more than ten minutes at a stretch. Although our muscles and minds were exhausted, the rigid, hard ground below us kept crashing into our bones. So we tossed and turned, fully clothed, our heads covered in scarves and hats, in our freezing tent catching micro bursts of sleep until the sun forced us out; strange, short, interrupted dreams clouding our thoughts.

The next morning we ate our hard-boiled eggs in stale bread and ketchup. We tried to convince ourselves we had enough sleep for another five hour hike.

We left after thee small morning fire finished smoking. Without our packs, the walk was little to speak of. A few steep climbs, a few soggy ravines to cross. Once or twice a view of the surrounding peaks would find their way through the foliage. Nothing much to speak of.

Three hours after walking through the sun and trees, our path evolved into a choice between return via our current path, return via an alternate path, or continue onto the nearby hot springs. Thus far, our experiences with South American hot springs has been disappointing, so we opted for retreat on the path not yet traveled. With our stomachs again on empty and running on the fumes of a breakfast hours prior, we attempted to climb up a nearby hill for the unexplored path only to be met by thorns and overgrowth stopping any further exploration. Too tired to continue looking for the path, and with the sun threatening to set, we resigned to return the way we came. Nothing much to speak of, but this time dimmer.

Three hours later, empty in the belly and hollow as a cave, mouths parched and cracked with hours of no water, we returned to our refuge. With the wood that was gathered earlier that morning, a fire was started quickly and large. Our final rations of hot dogs were roasted and consumed without bread and washed down with stream water.

For the rest of the night we stayed huddled around the fire, coals burning blue and white, feeling the temperature roll down like a ball thrown off a cliff by an angry, chubby boy.

We retired to our tent after the last of the coals went grey. Newly refurbished with all of our clothes acting as our mattress, we slept more soundly.

The next day, without any food available, we packed up our belongs and started back on our long, lonely return hike. Lighter on our backs and in our stomachs, the hike moved faster than before; moved with a determination to eat before full hunger began to hurt. Nothing much to speak of. We took the opposite side path to the one with came in on, but walked past the differences; our nose teasing us with memories of delicious smells of food.

Four hours later, through the sun but before the heat, we found ourselves outside the park feverish for food and excited about another great, and eventful hike completed.

Por Andrés Duarte y Marcos González (Agrupación Canopus)

Hace un par de meses llegó al buzón de Canopus la singular fotografía que se muestra arriba. La imagen, remitida por un estudiante de Bioquímica, fue captada en el río Trancura, en Pucón (Novena Región). La intención del fotógrafo era captar a un grupo de personas que practicaban rafting. Con dificultad se puede apreciar a la distancia las balsas que se desplazan sobre las aguas del Trancura. Sin embargo, esta circunstancia pasó a un segundo plano cuando posteriormente contemplaron la imagen, ya que en el cielo apareció un oscuro objeto con forma de plato que sobre el lugar nadie vio. ¡Un ovni fantasma!

Con respecto al ovni, salta a la vista un incómodo detalle que debiera activar nuestras alarmas: El objeto se ve muy oscuro. Como es sabido, la dispersión de la luz en la atmósfera depende de la distancia existente entre el observador y un objeto avistado. Mientras más alejado se encuentre un cuerpo opaco (que no posee luz propia), más brillante se verá en un registro fotográfico. Por el contrario, mientras más cercano se encuentre el objeto, más oscuro se va a ver, debido a la escasa dispersión lumínica que allí se produce. A juzgar por lo que muestra la captura, éste parece ser el caso.

Un examen más profundo de la imagen, practicado por Andrés Duarte (analista de Canopus), no sólo permite confirmar esta sospecha, sino también conocer un valor estimado de la distancia cámara-objeto y el tamaño del mismo:

Datos de la fotografía

De acuerdo con el EXIF (especificaciones para formatos de archivos de imagen usado por las cámaras digitales, incrustado dentro de los mismos), estos son algunos datos relevantes que podemos extraer de la fotografía:

Número f (N) = 4,50 (es la razón entre la distancia focal y el diámetro de apertura efectivo)

Distancia focal (f) = 25,10 mm (es la distancia entre el punto focal y la superficie del lente)

Altura EXIF de la imagen = 2.272 píxeles

Las dimensiones del sensor de la cámara son: 5,27 x 3,96 mm. Luego se utilizará el valor del ancho del sensor (d).

Determinación de un valor para la distancia cámara-objeto

El círculo de confusión es la imagen desenfocada de una fuente puntual de luz. La imagen borrosa es una convolución entre la imagen nítida y el círculo de confusión, entonces este último se obtiene por deconvolución. En este caso, el diámetro del círculo de confusión (coc) es de unos 20 píxeles. Utilizando este dato podemos obtener un nuevo valor para esta variable (Coc), pero expresado en milímetros:

Coc = (coc x d)/Altura imagen = (20 pix x 5,27 mm)/2.272 pix = 0,046 mm

Ya que la fotografía está enfocada al infinito, usamos la fórmula del círculo de confusión para fotos enfocadas al infinito y obtenemos la distancia (S) entre el objeto y la cámara:

S = f^2/(N x Coc) = (25,10 mm)^2/(4,50 x 0,046 mm) = 3.040 mm (unos 3 metros)

Una vez restaurada la imagen, es posible aducir que el presunto ovni tiene una longitud en la fotografía (L) de unos 40 píxeles.

Determinación de un valor para la longitud del objeto

Luego, a partir del ancho del sensor obtenemos el campo visual horizontal de la foto (field of view):

FOV = 2 x atan (d/2f) = 2 x atan [5,27 mm/(2 x 25,10 mm)] = 12°

El tamaño angular (t) del objeto es:

t = (L x FOV)/Altura imagen = (40 pix x 12°)/2.272 pix = 0,2°

Entonces, el tamaño lineal del cuerpo es:

2 x S x tan (t/2) = 2 x 3.040 mm x tan (0,2º/2) = 11 mm

De acuerdo a esa distancia cámara-objeto (unos 3 metros) y al tamaño angular del cuerpo (0,2º), el presunto ovni tiene una longitud aproximada de 1 cm.

A partir de este análisis es posible inferir que el objeto de la fotografía es probablemente sólo un insecto.

CUADRO RESUMEN DEL CASO

Este artículo fue publicado originalmente en el blog de La Nave de los Locos:
http://navelocos.blogspot.com/2009/03/un-intruso-en-pucon.html

Si desea contactarse con la Agrupación Canopus, escriba al correo: acanopus@gmail.com

donnerstag nacht sind wir mit dem bus nach valdivia gestartet. es war eine sehr lange und unrhige nacht, weil ich einfach keine bequeme position zum schlafen gefunden hab.. hab dadurch auch manchmal harry aufgeweckt um halb 6 hab ich dann doch noch eine schlaftablette genommen, damit ich wenigstens ein bisschen schlaf bekam. um halb 11 sind wir dann endlich in valdivia angekommen.

haben uns dann gleich auf die suche nach einem hostal gemacht. da muss ich meinen chile-führer einmal echt loben, der is echt genial mit den ganzen stadtplänen und hostalempfehlungen! nachdem wir unsere 7 sachen abgeladen hatten, haben wir uns auf den weg zu einem musem gemacht, weil harry hier im süden über die deutschen einwanderer recherchieren wollte. auf dem weg dorthin haben wir noch einen netten markt entdeckt. naja gut, harry fand den nicht so toll, weil er keinen fisch mag und es wirklich arg nach fisch gerochen hat…

wir sind dann ewig herumgelaufen und haben das museum gesucht (und schlussendlich sogar gefunden!) 15 min. vor mittagspause war dann im nachhinein allerdings nicht unbedingt die zeit wert.. war sehr unspektakulär. sind danach noch ein bisschen in valdivia herumgelaufen, nette gegend und vor allem – strahlend blauer himmel! hab mir sagen lassen, dass es eher selten ist, dass es im herbst nicht regnet..

waren dann noch in einem supermarkt einkaufen und ich hab mir so eine riiiesen schokokugel mit schokostreusel gekauft. die hat wirklich komplett aus schokolade bestanden!!! kalorienbombe pur hab mich kurz vor dem supermarkt hingesetzt und dann kam ne frau vorbei, die mir guten appetit gewünscht hat – die leute da im süden sind um vieles offener und freundlicher kommt mir vor.. da ist man halt nicht ganz so anonym wie in der großstadt!

abends hat uns meine studienkollegin matu mit dem auto abgeholt und wir sind mit ihrer schwester in die brauerei kunstmann. das war ein spaß! dort haben wir auch abendgegessen und – das war vielleicht geil – es gab SPÄTZLE auf der speisekarte! hab ich natürlich gleich bestellt und weil ja karfreitag war, haben wir gefragt, ob wir käsespätzle haben können. joa, spätzle warens, aber den käse hat man schon suchen müssen! danach noch einen apfelstrudel und dann ich hab mich fast wie daheim gefühlt. dazu gabs original kunstmann in einer großen glasröhre zum selberzapfen! war echt ein sehr witziger abend.

tags darauf gings dann richtung puerto varas. als wir angekommen sind, ließ das wetter wirklich mehr als zu wünschen übrig. aber kaum hatten wir unser hostel erreicht (das von deutschen betrieben wird), schon war strahlend blauer himmel. echt wahnsinn! hab dann bald meine studienkollegin meli angerufen. sie hat uns zu ihrer familie nach hause zum mittagessen eingeladen. sie wohnt wirklich im paradiiiiies!! ihr kleines, babyblaues haus liegt auf einem kleinen hügel direkt am see mit ausblick über den ganzen see und dem vulkan. der garten umrahmt mit blumen…. und das innere des hauses ist nicht weniger spektakulär. alles voll mit bildern von der mutter. echt überwältigend schön! aber ich glaub bilder sagen mehr als tausend worte:

ihre familie ist echt total nett und der vater kann kochen – hmmmmmmmm war das gut!! waren dann auch wirklich lang bei ihr daheim, war wirklich ein sehr netter nachmittag. deswegen haben wir leider auch recht wenig von der umgebung gesehen. aber meli ist abends noch mit uns zurück nach puerto varas und hat uns ein bisschen die gegend gezeigt. echt ein sehr schöner tag, puerto varas ist wirklich einen besuch wert!

am nächsten tag gabs dann erst mal richtig suuuuper frühstück! richtig ostersonntag-mäßig! mit gekochtem ei und einer richtig guten haferflocken-bananen-mischung. mmmmh, das war gut!!!! dann gings mit dem bus weiter bzw. wieder zurück richtung norden nach pucón. die tour war eigentlich ziemlich durcheinander, aber wir haben davor ja nicht gewusst, was wir machen werden.. naja, was solls! eben dann nach 7 stunden busfahrt sind wir gleich in unser hostal und haben uns dort über aktivitäten erkundigt, weils ja schon 15:00 war und wir ja noch was sehen wollten. sind dann gleich auf den ersten vorschlag eingegangen und haben uns mit einem sammeltaxi richtung wasserfall begeben. leider hatten wir an diesem tag nicht so viel glück mit dem wetter, es war eher kalt und niselte. sind dann etwa eine stunde einen berg hinaufgewandert, was mich extrem an die hämmermoos erinnert hat. seitlich alles grün bewachsen… im winter ist das bestimmt auch eine super rodelbahn! unterwegs hab ich dann leider meinen pulli verloren, aber durch den aufstieg war mir eh nicht kalt

endlich oben angekommen wurde es etwas gefährlicher, weil es durch den regen ganz rutschig war beim abstieg richtung wasserfall. harry hatte auch richtig angst um mich, hatte ja nicht gerade wanderschuhe an am ende wars dann auch wirklich gefährlich, weil nach dem abgrund mal lang lang nix mehr kam. der einzige halt war ein baum, der am abrund einen relativ sicheren halt gab. hier ein paar eindrücke:

nachts um 6 uhr in der früh gings dann wieder zurück nach valdivia, wo wir uns in einem mcdonalds die umsteigzeit vertrieben haben. mittags um 12 uhr gings dann ab zurück nach santiago. eine seeeehr lange fahrt kann ich nur sagen! aber die sitze waren auf jeden fall bequemer als auf der fahrt hin – also immer semi-cama nehmen, nur so als tipp!

um mitternacht kamen wir dann endlich in santiago an. waren beide ziemlich fertig. hab mich wieder richtig auf mein bettl gefreut

I recently visited the  Villarica Volcano in Pucon in Chile. Awesome!

Villlarica Volcano view

One of the facts that puzzled me was to understand why people aren’t afraid to live so close of danger?

The Villarica Volcano is in continuous activity. According to the people that live there, the constant dropping of some type of smoke or remains is a sign of its volcanic health.

So while there are signs of fire… there is no disaster.

That made me think about how we deal with the creative process.

From my personal point of view, we are able to spend years feeling that our creative power is underutilised and do nothing about it.

“When I retire… when I get more money… when I have a comprehensive boss…” At last, we cover our personal crater and blame the inadequate present conditions. Inside us, the effervescence continues because life is intense and every person has a unique capacity of production.

How stressed can we get in this situation?

Suddenly, a vulcanic burst will wake us and we’ll question our profession, marriage, our way of building relationships and many other places of achievement that are part of our lives.

In organizations it often happens. People are immersed in their daily activities and suddenly innovation teams are assembled to produce major eruptions in a few days.

Of course, eruptions play their part. They may be signs of nature putting everything in its due place or may simply be power is showing it most amazing face. But the people of Pucón teach that constantly expelling some smoke may be much healthier.

Hence the importance of being always connected to our power, hence the importance of self achievement. At the organizational level, the existence of open processes of innovation in which everyone can contribute a little at a time could be a sign of  “volcanic health”.

It´s been known for a long time that the majority of historical cases of great instant discoveries are myths constructed by its own authors. Indeed, they’re results of years of research and the authors were in permanent activity.

Climbing up to the edge of Villarica´s crater to see the yellow patches of súlfur, the 360 degrees view and to hear the incredible noise of the lave, is only possible in these conditions. We may want to get away from eruptions.

Home again, home again, jiggity jig. Here are some of the bullet points of my month back in my home away from home.

THE FAMILY: Upon my arrival in Valdivia, Jacqui (my host mother) asked me whether I liked dogs. When I said yes, she told me, “Good, because we’re thinking of getting a puppy for Manolla.” The idea sounded great but, knowing Jacqui’s tendency to speak of distant plans as if they were to take place tomorrow, I didn’t put much stock in the comment. Imagine my surprise when, 3 hours later, a fluffy ball of white fur that looked more like a large mouse than a dog was rolling around Manolla’s feet. At first I didn’t know whether the little guy was going to make it. Manolla isn’t the gentlest of 7-year-olds, Jacqui doesn’t like dogs, and I , the person who has never owned a dog, was somehow the one who seemed to know most about caring for a puppy. It was a recipe for disaster. However, I’m happy to report that, rather than kicking the bucket, Copito (Snowflake) is still alive and kicking. He spent the majority of his first weeks sleeping, but his energy level is increasing as quickly as his size, and I think in another week or two he might be able to keep up with Manolla.

A delighted Manolla and a slightly terrified Copito in his first minutes in his new home.

THE UNIVERSITY: I’ve been learning from the mistakes I made last semester and, having figured out how to navigate the system (or lack of system), I was able to spend the first few weeks shopping for my ideal four classes. Several potentially interesting classes were nixed for long lists of reading or too many quizzes, in favor of classes like “Film Appreciation.” Always the perfectionist, I am determined to appreciate those movies more than anyone else in the class. Though my courses aren’t homework-free, they are a huge improvement on last semester. Aside from the film class, I’m also taking Contemporary History of Chile, Contemporary Latin American Literature, and Chilean Theater. The majority of my classes only meet once a week, which leaves me plenty of free time to sleep in and hopefully do some volunteer work (which I’ve yet to organize). Fellow gringa Catherine and I are also playing with the women’s soccer team at the university (very fun, though not quite as impressive as it sounds). Unfortunately, I had class the day that Catherine attended the try-outs for the Chilean National Soccer Team.

WEATHER: March was an unbelievable month, with warm, beautiful weather. I spent as much time as possible outside, well aware of the impending doom that was fast approaching. With arrival of April has come the first of the rains…it’s going to be a long winter. Fortunately, I recently purchased an entire sheep’s-worth of wool, and Jacqui has promised to teach me to knit a sweater.

TRAVELS: After a summer of wandering, I’ve been mostly content to relax in Valdivia and live the bum life. I did make a return trip to Curinanco with Catherine and Victor, a small town on the coast near Valdivia that claims a stunning beach and is virtually untouched by tourists. Last weekend, Catherine and I headed to Pucon with the plan of climbing Volcan Villarrica. Our appearance in town made the campground owner’s month and we had our choice of any campsite we wanted. Poor weather conditions kept us off the mountain, and we had to settle for whitewater rafting and bicycling instead. It is a hard life we lead. With all the rain we had on the second day, it was hard to say whether we got more wet paddling down a river or peddling down rural roads.

Two of the new recruits: Catherine and Victor

Curinanco

Am Wochenende haben wir uns auf den Weg nach Süden gemacht. Das Ziel hieß Pucon, am Lago Villarica. Um eine Übernachtung zu sparen, sind wir in der Nacht von Freitag auf Samstag losgefahren, um nach fünfstündiger Fahrt morgens um halb acht  in Pucon anzukommen. Wir haben unsere Unterkunftauch gleich gefunden, ein gemütliches Hostel, ganz aus Holz. Eigentlich ist die ganze Stadt aus Holz.

Schnell ein Frühstück eingenommen und nochmal ein Stündchen aufs Ohr gelegt haben wir uns dann auf den Weg gemacht. ursprünglich war das Ziel ein Nationalpark und eine Wanderung. Aber da wir nicht nur den ersten Regentag seit vier Monaten erwischt hatten und die Preise der zahlreichen Tourveranstalter als relativ illusorisch erwiesen, sondern die Abfahrtszeiten der öffentlichen Busse auch ziemlich unglücklich waren, haben wir uns entschieden, auf eigene Faust loszuziehen – eine gute Wahl!

Der Lago Caburgua empfing uns menschenleere und die ihn umgebenden Berge und Vulkane in Wolken, Nebel und Dunst gehüllt. Bestimmt wäre der Ausblick auch bei wolkenlosem Wetter imposant gewesen, aber so kam die mysthische Atmosphäre, die Natürlichkeit des Ortes, noch besser zur Geltung:

(mehr Fotos gibt´s im Picasa-Album)

Der Regen wurde immer heftiger. Wir haben uns auf den Weg gemacht, noch ein paar Wasserfälle zu erkunden – auch hier (dank des Wetters) kaum Betrieb. Insgesamt waren wir in diesem Urwald ähnlichen Gebiet fast drei Stunden unterwegs. Tiere haben wir zwar nicht gesehen, aber nichts anderes als die Geräusche von rauschendem Wasser, mal plätscherndem, mal prasselndem Regen und den Gesang unsichtbarer Vögel zu hören, ist schon ein Erlebnis, das die Phantasie anregt und Lust macht, sich wirklich mal in den Regenwald zu begeben…

Am Abend haben wir uns dann doch noch ein bisschen was gegönnt und sind in die natürlichen Thermen gefahren. Auch in diesem Fall war der Regen natürlich perfekt, warmes Thermalwasser, was spürbar heiss aus dem Fels sprudelt, kühler Regen von oben und ein kleines Glas Weiswein waren genau die richtige Kombination, um die müden Beine zu entspannen und den Tag ausklingen zu lassen. Nur die besoffenen Israelis in Kombination mit den besoffenen Chileninnen waren ein bisschen anstrengend.

Am nächsten Tag, es hatte nachts gestürmt und aus Eimern geschüttet, war dann nur noch ein Stadtbummel angezeigt (Pucon ist echt sehenswert und hat einen schönen Strand am Lago Villarica), der mit einem Hamburger endete, der sich sehen lassen konnte. Locker 16 cm Durchmesser, eher Pizzaformat!

In Pucon kann man am schwarzen Lavastrand liegen, Pferdereiten oder den Vulkan Villarica besteigen. Bei letzterem gehts sogar mit Steigeisen ueber einen Gletscher. Der Krater befindet sich dann auf 2800m und ist ziemlich beeindruckend. Vor allem die Geraeusche die der Vulkan von sich gibt lassen erahnen welche Kraefte hier schlummern.

So who knew I would barely have time to write here?  I can’t believe that it’s been almost a month already since I arrived…it definitely doesn’t seem like that much time has passed.  I’ve still got about five postcards I’ve been meaning to send since the first week and now five more from my camping/backpacking trip in the Patagonia.  I’ve been doing a lot of traveling though, so I guess that’s to be expected.  I went on a group trip to Pucón with the ISA program last weekend, which was awesome.

Posing in front of waterfall in Pucón on ISA excursion.

Pucón is a nice touristy area with lots of outdoor activities.  The first day we were there we toured some of the waterfalls around the area, visited a gorgeous lake, and finished the day at some hot springs.  The following day a group of us attempted to climb Volcán Villarrica, the volcano that looms over the town of Pucón.  The view was incredible, but I didn’t make it very far because the winds were so strong and our gear was extremely heavy.  It was sort of a disappointment not to reach the top, but it was still worth it for the view (and to be able to say that I climbed a volcano…hehe).  The last day we went rafting in the morning and rode South America’s longest zipline through the canopy in the evening–both were a ton of fun.  I definitely felt a lot more adventurous after that trip.

My next adventure came this past weekend with a trip to the Parque Nacional de Las Torres del Paine–one of Chile’s most famous parks.  Overall, the experience was a great one.  I got to see the INCREDIBLE (can’t stress that enough, here) views and participate in my first real camping trip.  I definitely was not prepared for the physical demand of backpacking through some very hilly, rocky, muddy territory, however.  I think I came to the realization that, while I can withstand being dirty and uncomfortable, I am not good at carrying a heavy pack for several hours along difficult trails.  I just didn’t have time to prepare myself for that sort of exertion, so the last part of the trip was a struggle for me.  There was one day where we had to book it from one campsite to another that was about 8 hours hike away from where we were–we had to do this because we were really short on time already.

Volcán Villarrica in Pucón

At any rate, the terrain was really challenging and we had to carry our packs the entire way, so I got exhausted pretty quickly.  I felt a little bit embarrassed because I seemed to be the only one in the group that was really struggling, but I had also been sick the week before and during the trip…not something I could control, I guess.  I didn’t end up making it to see the actual Torres del Paine, but the day my group went to see them it was rainy and foggy out anyhow, so the view probably wouldn’t have been worth killing myself over.  I’m just happy I was able to make it as far as I did without dying!  HA!  I still have a bit of a cold and these weird canker sores on my tongue, but I think I’m getting better.  I didn’t have much time to recuperate before heading out into the wilderness, so this next week I’m going to the doctor to make sure everything’s cool and getting plenty of rest (and real food…).

With all these trips I still haven’t lost the feeling that this experience has been more of a vacation so far than anything else.  I’m kind of ready to just relax in town for a few days and explore…I still need to meet more Chileans my age and really get to know where I’m living and studying.  My classes this week were mostly cancelled because of Semana Novata, or freshman week.  In Chile freshman week is when all the new students celebrate and go out partying pretty much all the time…so I guess they decided just to cancel most of our classes.  No problem with that here.  I hope that my classes are not too difficult.  So far the language classes seem pretty easy, but that’s mainly because those classes are with all foreigners so

El Parque Nacional de Las Torres del Paine in Southern Patagonia, Chile

the professors dumb things down a lot.  My geography classes, on the other hand, are a bit harder.  It’s tough to keep up with the professors and other students because they talk so fast, plus the lecture styles are all kind of hard to follow.  Most of the lectures are excrutiatingly boring and make me nod off…not good.  I need to make friends with some Chileans in my classes to make sure I can stay on top of things.  A tape recorder might not be a bad investment either…

Since I have this week off for the most part I’ll try to post again soon (and work on mailing out those postcards)!  Pictures will be up pronto, of course.  More adventures to come later…

Ok, esse é o último.

No último dia nós fizemos o passeio que guardamos pra um dia ensolarado e que não tivesse nada pra fazer. Pegamos um barco que nos mostrasse o lago com o qual nós interagimos tão pouco.

Uma das praias do Lago Villarica

O passeio durou mais ou menos uma hora, passando por várias mansões de milhões de dólares

tipo essa,

algumas vistas da praia principal de Pucón

Melhor cidade do Chile

E do prédio onde a família do Pinochet tem apartamento

Pinochet = Espigão

Um chope Kunstmann pra se despedir

À noite pegamos o ônibus pra Santiago, chegando lá às 7 da manhã.

Lá tentamos voltar no museu de arte Pré-Colombiana, mas era segunda e ele estava fechado. Sem mais o que fazer e com muitos pesos chilenos na mão, resolvemos gastar. Percorremos todo o centro de Santiago procurando onde jogar dinheiro fora. 

Acabei comprando o meu primeiro par de All-Star (desde os 8 anos de idade) pelo preço de 10 anos atrás, mais ou menos 60 reais. Maravilha!

E assim acabou a viagem, com a certeza de que Pucón vale outra visita no futuro.

Então a gente subiu um vulcão, o Vulcão Villarica. Depois do Elias nos dizer que era fácil, que a gente subia devagar, “divagando”, dizia ele. 

Okay.

Acordamos às 6 da manhã pra sair às 7 (era o que saia mais tarde). O tempo esperado de subida era 3 horas, e descida 2 horas. O transfer nos deixou a 1400m de altitude, aonde começaria a nossa subida. Do nosso hotel foi um casal de australianos super atléticos, como todos australianos. Obviamente não subimos no mesmo grupo que eles.

Subimos no grupo das pessoas que tinham preparamento físico igual a zero. O nosso guia foi o Elias.

Saimos daí, já em cima das nuvens

O que estava por vir

O início era um caminho cheio de pedrinhas bem escuras e leves. Era meio difícil porque elas deslizavam, mas a gente caminhava bem devagar, como tinham nos dito. O primeiro descanso foi depois de mais ou menos 1h de caminhada.

Cansada, mas ainda dava pra encarar

 Depois começou a vir a neve. A gente não podia tirar fotos enquanto caminhava, pra não atrasar o resto do pessoal, e pra não descer a montanha rolando, então todas fotos que eu tenho são das paradas.

Elias e eu em cima de uma antiga estação de teleférico

 Até aí a maior dificuldade era o calor. Enquanto a gente caminhava eu suava um monte (minha camiseta do Little Joy estava encharcada), e quando a gente parava pra descansar eu congelava.

Lucas tentando provar que estava realmente na montanha

Nesse ponto eu já estava MORRENDO. A subida ficava cada vez mais difícil, prender os pés no chão dava cada vez mais trabalho, já que boa parte da neve era na verdade gelo. Gelo escorrega! Eu já começava a pensar em desistir, mas o Lucas me dava apoio moral pra prossegir, e eu ignorava ele porque falar era cansativo. heh. Ar rarefeito é isso.

So close, yet so far

Nessa foto a gente já estava quase lá, mas era a parte que a subida era mais trabalhosa. Tinha mais pedras que a gente tinha que subir com mais cuidado, dando passos maiores. Essa guria ali é de Porto Alegre e também estava subindo com o namorado junto com o nosso pequeno grupo.

Por aí eu já queria morrer. Eu precisava parar de 5 em 5 minutos, mas é claro que a gente não parava. Nos últimos passos rumo ao topo o nosso guia foi me puxando, porque eu realmente não conseguia mais. Cheguei lá, finalmente.

Consegui! Subi no topo de um vulcão ativo!

Nosso grupo, "Os Curiosos"

O outro casal que subiu com a gente era do Chile mesmo, de uma cidade perto de Pucón.

Ao invés de levar 3 horas pra subir e 2 pra descer, a gente levou 5 horas só pra SUBIR. Que beleza!

Se eu pareço tensa, é porque estava FRIO

A descida foi a MELHOR parte, mas eu ainda não tenho as fotos. A gente desceu de skibunda.  Levamos mais ou menos 1h, sendo uns 40mins escorregando. Eu nunca conseguia ganhar velocidade, porque a neve ficava se acumulando na minha frente e me freava, então vinha o Lucas muito mais rápido atrás de mim e me empurrava com os pés. Aí vinha o casal de Chilenos e empurrava ele, e a gente chegava lá embaixo num bolo morrendo de rir.

Uma hora a guria chilena gritou “CURIOSO” antes de descer, por causa de uma pegadinha do João Cléber que eles tinham visto no youtube, e a gente acabou chamando o exercício todo de “curioso”. Foram 6 descidas seguidas, e chegando no fim, eu queria subir de novo só pra poder descer mais uma vez.

Chegando ao fim, o três da vitória...

E o que a gente conquistou.

Tchau, vulcão.

Se tu quiser fazer essa subida, recomendo os serviços da Araucanía. Ótimo atendimento, guias simpáticos, e quando tu volta pra agência pra devolver o equipamento, eles te dão CERVEJA. Melhor recepção ever.

Chile erstreckt sich entlang der Anden und so gibt es hier zahlreiche aktive Vulkane. Vulkane kennt man ja aus Kinderbüchern als spitze rauchende Bergkegel. Ungewöhnlich aber irgendwie ganz sympatisch. Wir sind ja zur zeit eine Nachtreise südlich von Santiago in Pucon.

Da es bei unserer Ankunft in Pucon bewoelkt war, haben wir den nahegelegenen Volcan Villarrica zunächst durch drei Dinge wahrgenommen
1. Das Vulkanalarmsystem – eine waagerechte Ampel, die zur Zeit auf grün steht
2. Staßenschilder die die Evakuierungsroute anzeigen
3. Touristen und Einheimische, die alle beteuerten, dass wir unbedingt sobald es möglich ist auf den Vulkan klettern sollen! Das könne aber Tage dauern.

Wir meldeten uns also sofort zu einer Vulkanbesteigungstour ( man darf dort nur mit ausgebildeten Bergführern rauf) an. Den Vulkan konnten wir aufgrund der Wolken bis dahin nicht sehen. Wir probierten und packten aber schonmal unsere Ausrüstung und am nächsten Tag um 7 Uhr fuhren wir mit einem Tourbus an den Fuß des Vulkanes auf 1200 Meter. Dort angekommen konnten wir vom Vuklan noch immer nicht viel sehen. Er war noch immer in Wolken gehüllt. Die Bergführer sagten, wenn wir es eilig hätten könnten wir es versuchen ermunterten uns aber auch nicht sonderlich indem sie sagten, dass wir vermutlich wegen der Wolken und des Rauches nicht weit kommen würden. Wir vertagten den Vulkan, mieteten stattdessen ein Auto und fuhren auf abenteuerlichen Schotterstraßen zu den sehr schönen Termas Geometricas ( http://www.termasgeometricas.cl/ )
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Am nächsten Tag das gleiche Spiel, 5,5 Liter Wasser kaufen, Brötchen schmieren und um 7 zum Vulkan fahren . Diesmal konnte man den riesigen, schneebedeckten Vulkan bereits von Pucon aus aus sehen. Nur entgleiste diesmal den Bergführern das Gesicht angesichts der fetten Rauchwolke die durch den Talwind genau auf die Route gedrückt wurde. Sie rieten uns freundlich ab und nur eine kleine Gruppe von etwa 3 Personen wollte versuchen den Gipfel zu erreichen. Wir erfuhren später, dass sie einige hundert Höhenmeter vor dem Ziel vor Erschöpfung umkehren mussten.
Zur Info, man startet auf etwas über 1200 Meter, der Gipfel ist 5km entfernt und mit ~2850 Metern fast 1600 Meter höher gelegen. Der Hinweg soll zw. 5 (schnell) und 6 Stunden dauern. Der Rückweg dauert 2 Stunden. Wir erklären später wie das geht.

Am dritten Tag (gestern) waren die Bedingungen dann perfekt! Keine Wolke am Himmel, ein wenig Wind, leichter senkrecht aufsteigender Rauch und nicht zu kalt. Mit einer Gruppe von 14 Leuten plus 5 Bergführern machten wir uns auf den Weg. Mit Eispickel in der Hand und allerlei Ausrüstung ( Steigeisen etc.) im Rucksack ging es zunächst gerade, bald nur noch im Zickzackkurs in einer Reihe Schritt für Schritt hinter den Bergführern her den Vulkan hinauf. Kann man sich einfach vorstellen, wie 5 bis 6 Stunden in einer Karawane eine tief verschneite schwarze Piste hochstapfen. Dadurch dass die Sonne so schoen schien war die Strecke weniger vereist und nur fuer das letzte, sehr steile Stueck mussten wir die Steigeisen unter unsere Wanderschuhe schnallen. Gluecklicherweise war unsere Gruppe wirklich fit und wir haben es – mit einer Ausnahme, ein Hiollaender hatte bereits frueh entschieden, dass er nicht bis zum Gipfel gehen moechte, geschafft, alle gemeinsam den Gipfel zu erreichen. Unglaublich! Wenn man den Vulkan aus dem Ort Pucon beaobachtet (hatten wir inzwischen natuerlich schon zwei Tage lang ehrfurchtsvoll gemacht), kann man sich wirklich nicht vorstellen, dass man da “einfach” rauflaufen kann. Gut, so richtig einfach ist das auch nicht, aber der Berg sieht schon gewaltig aus, und es gibt ja auch keinen richtgen Weg dort hoch. Und da das Wetter so gut war, durften wir auch lange oben beim Krater bleiben, aus dem permanent der Rauch aufsteigt. Lava konnten wir vom Rand nicht sehen, aber der Vulkan spuckt schon noch ab und an mal Lava. Der letzte richtige Ausbruch war in den 80igern, und ein ganz grosser in den 70igern. Nach einer ganzen Weile dort oben, folgte dann der Abstiegt und uns war z<u dem Zeitpunkt noch gar nicht klar, wie lustig der werden wuerde. Die spassigste – und vermutlich sogar sicherste (!) Art, den steilen Berg runterzukommen ist naemlich einfach auf dem Hosenboden runterzurutschen. Das war ein Spass! Wir haben alle so eine Art Riesenwindel umgekriegt, uns hingesetzt und sind dann voellig begeistert im Supertempo runtergerutscht. Fuer die flacheren Stellen gabs dann auch noch so eine Rutschschaukel – die hatten wir auch in unserem Rucksack. Und damit gings dann runter auch leider viel zu schnell! Nach einer Stunde waren wir rutschenderweise schon fast wieder unten angekommen und sind dann noch den Rest bis zum Bus gewnadert. Alle ganz happy und erschoepft. Beim Bier auf der Terasse der Bergfuehrer, die uns so schoen sicher auf den Gipfel gebracht hatten, haben wir dann – mit Blick auf den erklommenen Vulkan – beschlossen, den Tag mit einem naechtlichen Thermenbesuch ausklingen zu lassen.

Yes, it’s me.  I climbed most of the volcano but we couldn’t make the top (too much gas…maybe it’d had a burrito?).  The coolest part is coming down – you attach a little piece of fabric to your ass and simply slide down the mountain for about an hour.  Note that “braking” and “steering” are both accomplished with the axe-thing.

A mais esperadas das cidades pra mim!!! Amei esse lugar assim que vi a foto e ela nao decepcionou!!! perfeita!

pena que a previsao do tempo nao estava colaborando..se chover amanha nao tera como escalar o VillaRica!!! Mas vamos tentar assim mesmo…

acabamos por indicaçao do dono do hostel a alugar um carro para passear..e o preço foi menos da metade do que pagamos em Santiago!

Fomos ao supermercado fazer compras e depois depois para um piquenique na Praia Grande do lago Villarica com suas areias pretas e agua gelada!!!! Mas muito transparente!!!

Seguimos ao Ojos de Caburga, um local que é nascente do Lago Caburga..e simplismente maravilhoso!! Com correnteza muito forte e aguas muito azuis.. Lindo!

Depois fomos paramos em um mirante para ver o Lago Caburga e adivinha o que aconteceu??????????

Atolados no Chile!!!! E nem adiantou eu arrancar uma tabua da escada de uma trilha pra colocar na roda..nem os 2 tombos que levei quando carregava a tabua..so saimos de lá depois que um morador do local passou de caminhote e voltou em casa pra buscar uma corda e puxar a gente..

Depois continuamos o Rally ate o Parque nacional Huerquehue, mas como estava tarde nao conseguimos entrar pois ate a primeira lagoa eram 3 horas de trilha!

Voltamos para o Hostel para preparar para o Villarica hj!!! mas amanha conto como foi aqui…tem foto no orkut já..

Beijosss

I started writing this down in my journey on the way back from Pucón the other weekend and now I finally have a chance to type it out and complete it.

“I’m on my way home from Pucón tiht now and Ive experienced so many things.We left Viña at 9:30 at night and didn’t get to Pucón until 9:00 the next morning. After a while we headed out for a day of touring. We first went to a waterfall called Salto la China. The Mapuche tribe named the water fall after a cow (China) that fell off the cliff into the waterfall.On the way out we stopped on teh side of the raod climed under a barbed wire fense to catch a glimps of another waterfall (Salto Palguin). On our way to the next place we were excoted off of the bus so that the bus could pass safely over several bridges. There were also several bridges which we probably should have gotten off the bus but didn’t. Our next stop was a Lake called Lago Caburgua, it reminded me of a big lake I visited in Arizona once. The ISA ladies told us we could go swimming for a little bit if we wanted. It was probably only 60 degrees out but I decided to still go swimming. I, looking like an dumb tourist went in the water. It wasn’t that cold and it was so clear, but took about five minuets for walking into the water for it get above my head.  When we were done and walking out of the water we would feel it getting warmer  and warmer on our feet (it was strange). Shortly after that we packed up, i put on shorts which made me look like I peed myself and headed to another part of the same lake called Ojos de Caburgua.”

This part of the lake was inbeded in the woods and its basically a series of small waterfalls. The water was so blue and eventually a bunch of us just sat up on the rocks between all of the falls. It was one of the prettiest things I’ve ever seen.

After this sight we went to our final destination which we were all waiting for; the natural hot springs. It was the most relaxing part of the day, a bunch of us went back and forth between the freezing river and the hot springs, well worth it, When I was sitting in the water I kept thinking what the hell am I doing but as soon as you stand up it is soo refreshing. The only fault the place had was it was down a huge hill so once you are all relaxed you have to climb all of these stairs to get back to your car or in our case the bus which is not relaxing.

That night I went to bed early so I could wake up at 7:00 to climb the Volcano Villarica. It was a day of disasters. They delayed us because of the weather, they were unsure if we could go up to the top, so they told us to wait a half an hour. At about 7:30 we got into vans to get all of our gear. Then we drove to the base of the Volcano and started hiking with out guide. It was terrible, the wind was so bad, it makes Moorhead strong winds seem like a light breeze, we had to use our ice picks to brace ourselves from falling over. At points we just had to stop and let the wind past. And eventually my back started to hurt pretty bad and I started to panic because I’m afraid of hurting my back anymore (I’ve had enough of that from dance). So at one point I turn around to my friend and I’m barely breathing, I thought it was from the altitude or something but later I realized I was probably having a minor panic attack. It was soo funny looking back though, my friend was freaking out thinking that I was having my first ever ashma attack on the climb to the top of a Volcano, she told me to drink some water and then I turned around and kept walking up the Volcano. Anyways so we get to the first shelter, which is also a ski lift and on a normal not so windy day people can take the lift up to that part of the Volcano and then begin there trek up the Volcano. But that was as far as I got on teh Volcano. The guides told us they wouldn’t take us up any farther because of the wind, and because rocks would start falling and because the visibility was really bad becasue of the low clouds. So all of us very frustrated headed down the Volcano. We all heasitated and a bunch of people literally jumped over this huge rock and started running down the side of the Volcano (which is about the texture of sand). So I started to follow the guide down the hill literally running/ sliding/ jumping. It was crazy, when I got down to the bottom of the hill I realized that the rest of my group was about 10 minutes behind me. I guess they got scared that they would fall or slip but it was proabably the funest part of the whole climbing a Volcano fiasco.

Since we got back pretty early in the day we went to some Artisania shops and I bought a few gifts and a really cute skirt for myself. Then we headed out to get some Sushi and beer. Before we started our climb that day we decided that was going to be our reward.

Later that night, Beth (my house mat), Matt (Beth’s boyfriend), and I went to meet one of my host brothers for the first time. He lives in Valdivia, a town two hours south of Pucón, but comes up often for the weekend. So we met up with him at the casino and we learned more about our host families secrets. Later in the night Beth and Matt left but I went out dancing with Sebastian (my host brother) and his friend. At the club I met this American named Chester who was traveling through South America and back up to the states. He saved me a couple of times from some creepy  guys which was fine by me because he had some pretty sweet moves. I got home at 5 in the morning only to be able to sleep for a little bit since I had signed up to go white water rafting and to do the longest zip line/ canopy in south America.

The white water rafting was pretty tame although we did go through a couple of class three rapids. Unfortunately I was stuck in the back so I didn’t get as wet, except for when the guide decided to splash me with his paddle. But at one point he told us we could jump into the freezing river and I was all over that. It was cold but totally worth it. 

So after rafting I went on the longest zipline in South America. It was gorgeous and super fun but just like the rest of the weekend I has some difficulties. The first zip line we went on needed more weight to we had to go in pairs. Unfortunately I started to stop me and my partner too soon and the guide had to pull us in using one of my friends feet. Other than that the zip line when smoothly, I screamed a couple of time but not ut of terror surprisingly just out of joy (I’m getting over my fear of heights). On the last run we got to see most of the guides go down before us and they were crazy some went backwards and others just hung like a spider and let the carabiner  do all of the work.