Cantigi Bandung Indonesia:
RC QD Hen Long
saya mohon maaf jika setiap halaman dengan kategori hobby agak sedikit berat saat loading, karena saya harus menyertakan beberapa foto dan pict. artikel ini disajikan berdasarkan dukungan data, fakta dan observasi langsung di lapangan.

hehehee.. setelah lama membatu dalam box akhirnya semua RC (Radio Control) Car saya keluarin lagi, bersih-bersih lagi, oprek-oprek lagi..
oya, yang pernah nanya RC saya, saya cuma punya ini, 1 RC Nikko-Buggy 1:24, 1 RC Titan-OffRoad 1:10, 1 RC Drift 1:24, 2 RC RaceTin Auldey 1:32, sama 1 RC QD (Quick Drive) Hen Long 1:10. RC terakhir itu yang paling saya sukai. 5-7 tahun yang lalu, komunitas ini sempat rame banget, tapi sekarang udah engga kedengaran lagi. kalo dulu sering banget maen QD ke Kota Baru Parahyangan, aspalnya bagus, sepi pula. semoga komunitas QD Cimahi – Bandung rame lagi ya..


Awalnya, dulu itu cukup bingung nentuin merk QD yang bagus. bingung mau beli antara Hen Long atau Ace. kalo Ace, circuitboard_nya udah punya 4 relay, memudahkan modifikasi engine dan rangkaian elektronik lainnya. tapi akhirnya saya milih QD Hen Long karena teknologi elektronikanya lebih baik dibandingkan beberapa produk china sejenis –maklum lah bro, pengen punya yang pake engine kayak kyosho tapi engga punya duit, jadi beli yang murahan aja–
kalau pada mobil lain motor penggerak (steering front) depan menggunakan motor dynamo yang akan berbelok maksimal sesuai settingan pabrik. sementara QD Hen Long saya menggunakan Servo Electric untuk steering front wheel. artinya belokan sangat halus. jika saya memutar steering trim di RC 5⁰ ke kanan atau kiri, maka ban juga akan berbelok 5⁰ ke kanan atau kiri. pada RC juga ada 2 tombol buat front wheel ballance controller, jadi engga perlu nyetting keseimbangan ban depan secara manual, mantap kan?

selain itu Servo Electronic juga di aplikasikan pada rangkaian mainboard circuit, termasuk supply power ke motor dynamo. jadi QD Hen Long saya punya 4 kecepatan maju (4 speed forward) dan 2 kecepatan mundur (2 speed backward). ada lagi yang keren. frekuensi QD Hen Long saya di split menjadi 3 dalam bentuk saklar A-B-C pada mainboard circuit dan RC. artinya sangat kecil kemungkinannya ketika maen rame-rame dengan beberapa produk berbeda terjadi frquency crossing (RC A bisa ngejalanin mobil B karena frekuensi yang sama)

Soft Body QD Hen Long saya aslinya glossy transparance, cat dilakukan bukan dari luar, tapi dari dalam body, sehingga cat akan tetap terlindungi dan selalu kinclong (sekarang mah udah baret-baret dikit bekas senggolan sama trotoar). sticker asli bawaan pabrik engga dipasang, saya memilih bikin sticker cutting custom (depan-samping-belakang) sendiri ngikutin mobil-mobil tunner street racing. pemasangannya saya akui melelahkan dibanding masang ukuran asli di mobil beneran, karena ukuran di QD Hen Long cukup kecil. lagian mesin cuttingnya punya batas minimal ukuran.

kalo udah dibawa maen, mobil ini suka di tanya-tanyain ini itu, di pegang-pegang, dilirik (ya sama wanita lah bro), pokoknya asik lah, jadi makin banyak temen. tahun 2008 mobil ini juara 1 balapan kelas kampung aja di komplek acara 17 Agustusan tea, trek masih pake aspal jalanan. tahun 2009 ini juara 2 (masih kelas kampung juga, hehehee…), soalnya treknya di lapangan volley dan agak berpasir!, jadinya rada-rada ngedrift gitu lah, kalo ga tau ya ngepot-ngepot teu puguh tea, engga friksi. tipe ban QD Hen Long ini wet tyre bukan slick.

ini spesifikasi RC QD Hen Long saya

Radio Control Quick Drive Hen Long
Manufacturer: Hen Long
Build Type: Hen Long 2001
Scale: 1:10
Vehicle Type: On Road
Drive Type: 2 WD Rear Motor
Power Type: Electric
Steering System: Servo Electric
Power System: Servo Electric
Body Type: Mitsubishi Evolution VI Soft Body
Transmiter: Hen Long – Scale Radio Control System
Batteries: 1,2 Volt – 2300mAh x 6
Applications: On-Road Car, Pavement, Smooth Track, Racing, Sport

RC QD Freaks, Keep rock ‘n roll….
[photography & digital imaging by cantigi]

see you next hobby article and hopefully useful
[cantigi™]

The Nitro RC car or gas powered RC car is an rc car that runs on a special fuel — a mix of oil, nitro-methane and methyl alcohol.

It’s kind of like a smaller version of a top fuel dragster.

The ESP of a Nitro Remote Control car is that it is far more powerful and runs longer compared to Electric RC cars. This is definitely not your father’s rc car. They are a little more expensive than their electric counterparts – both to own and maintain.

While electric RC cars are ideal for beginners, Nitro RC cars are intended more for the serious hobbyists and racers.

Basically, a Nitro RC car has an internal combustion engine of 2-stroke or 4-stroke type. Fuel is supplied from a small tank that contains the special fuel. Regular gasoline will not work in these engines.

you start the car either with a pull start cord or with a starter box.

Just like real cars, these engines have a carburetor, air filter and other such components of the internal combustion engine. They also have the universal components like, electronic radio control, servo speed control, transmission / gear system, drive train, differentials, steering system, shock absorbers, and batteries for head lights.

Why is an RC car so special and expensive?

First, the complex engine and its components are costly, compared to the simple motor in the electric RC car. In addition, a battery for the electric car is a simple one time investment compared to the ongoing fuel costs of Nitro RC’s.

In addition, Nitro RC cars gather more dirt and grease. More running components in any system mean there will be more wear and tear.

Both these add to the maintenance cost.

However, for the sheer power and racing range, the Nitro RC cars are the leaders in RC toys.

You may choose the cars in 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/20 scales as well as mini nitro RC cars. The 1/8 and 1/10 scale Nitro Remote Control cars are the most popular ones with racers and serious hobbyists.

They can be bought in most hobby stores or on the Internet for between $200 to $400.

This is definitely not a beginner’s price!

On the other hand, it’s nowhere near as expensive as a full-sized Porsche, yet it helps fulfill your racing dreams. At 60 to 100 kmph speeds, they are very definitely exciting!

radio control

rc airplane

rc airplane

We are experts on rc cars and we have a great many RC Cars and other vehicles available in our online store. For more on rc cars, check out our blog at http://www.RCHobbyShopping.com.

In addition to rc cars, we have information about rc airplanes, rc trucks, rc boats, rc tanks and a wide range of other rc products. We even have an rc mouse at http://RCHobbyShopping.com to drive your cat crazy!

Christmas is fast approaching and this year, what have you prepared for your loved ones? Or, have you prepared anything at all? A good present idea for your boys or your husband this coming season is a toy. Yes, you read it right – a remote controlled toy. If you're up to the theorem of making your loved one satisfied while giving them something they can take full responsibility over, why not give them a RC car? Any model of RC toy is fine.

Essentially, aside from the RC auto, there are other RC models like planes, boats, planes and helicopters that may appeal to the interest of the individual that will receive your present. What else is good about choosing a radio controlled car is that you can decide on the color and the entire look of the model you have need.

These are fantastic for newbies as well as there isn't a need for further changing. If you think the receiver of the present is going to enjoy assembling or changing the parts of a RC auto ( or whatever model you have selected ), go on and by the customizable one. The only step that is's needed when you like the model which wishes assembling is whether there's a need for you to buy the radio control system separately. Other stuff that are serious when purchasing RC autos as gifts is the location where the owner is going to run it. Is it going to be a rocky surface? A lawn? Or is it going to be a flat and cemented surface? Ensure that the model you purchase is also going to fit the surface it'll run on to avoid immediate damage. Above all, it's the idea that counts together with your present. Be there when you give your present and like it together. Nonplussed about what model and kind of brand you want to get for your small boy? When you are a RC hobbyist, you would know the best things that may suffice in keeping and maintaining a RC vehicle or toy. If you're not, do not be surprised to get an envy face from your better half because one fact about RC toys is that, it is addicting to little boys, which also brings the same level of pleasure to adult boys. Keep one eye on online sites that will commend RC models which have just been paid for. Another look of the vital things that you actually need can be discovered on online reviews.

Internet sites that conduct reviews for different products are those that are tested and proved and regularly getting positive feedback from professionals and long term hobbyists.

Choosing your chosen color is also possible. There's not any necessity to select the gas fired RC cars if you believe that your kid or your better half doesn't have any intentions in doing so.

If ever racing becomes a chance in the future, that is the time you can accept concepts of upgrading or customising the purchased RC vehicle to suit racing capacity. Apart from now, enjoy the experience of running a RC car with the one that you love.

Losi has 2 new Micro Crawler RC vehicles just in time for the holidays! These things are amazing and will make a great gift but you will probably want to keep them for your self!

Measuring under 6 inches, the Micro Rock Crawler can pretty much crawl anywhere. You can run it on the couch, over your keyboard, and almost any place outside. The 1/24 Micro Rock Crawler RTR—it’s small in size and big on fun.

Click Here to find out more information and see videos of these little beasts in action! Pre-Order today! They will be shipping in the last week of November with time to spare!

Kit y armado

A no engañarse, que el e-starter este construido en foam (telgopor) y sea económico, no quiere decir que tenga un diseño poco cuidado o no probado. Los secretos de este modelo se esconden en el perfil alar, las punteras de ala y el grupo de cola perfilado, los cuales en su conjunto le dan características de vuelo muy nobles propias de un avión más grande. El kit trae todo, hasta el pegamento, y puede o no traer un motor brushed. Solo nos restará agregar el variador, el pack y el equipo de radio. Los accesorios son apropiados para el modelo y su instalación es fácil. Un punto sobresaliente es el manual, que está diseñado como una guía visual con gran cantidad de fotos color que detallan el armado y ajuste del modelo. Como el modelo está hecho en poliestireno expandido (telgopor), es resistente y fácilmente reparable, aún en caso de catástrofes. Dos puntos a mejorar son la falta de una bancada para motor outrunner y el anclaje del tren principal que es muy débil. Se puede tener armado el modelo en aproximadamente 30hs o 40hs.

Modificaciones y mejoras

Una de las cosas que más me gustan de este kit es que trae resueltos casi todos los detalles de armado e instalación, sin dejar puntos a definir que obliguen al modelista a crear una solución. Pero también deja lugar a los aeromodelistas que nos encanta modificar y mejorar los kits a nuestro gusto. En mi caso, reemplacé la sujeción del tren principal por una removible sujeta con bandas elásticas, ya que esto permite que en caso de un panzazo el tren de desprenda sin deteriorar al modelo.. Otra solución podría ser hacer una base de terciada y allí atornillar un tren de aluminio muy blando. En cualquiera de los casos las ruedas originales son apropiadas y brindan buena amortiguación. Como conocía el potencial del modelo, decidí invertir más tiempo y cubrir las alas con papel (usé papel afiche blanco y cola vinílica), lo cual le brindó más resistencia y mejor acabado. También se puede hacer un recubrimiento con algún film termo-contraíble de muy baja temperatura de aplicación. Lo anterior permitió evitar el uso de los parantes de bambú provistos por el fabricante, mejorando así el rendimiento aerodinámico. El ala la fijé con el clásico sistema de gomitas, dado que lo juzgué más robusto que el método propuesto, además de evitar roturas en caso de algún toque. En el grupo de cola reforcé el timón y el elevador pegando balsa en los bordes de fuga de las partes fijas, lo cual es muy simple y efectivo. Además coloqué pegados longitudinalmente dentro de todo fuselaje 4 listoncitos de pino 2×6mm a modo de refuerzo. Para fijar las lipos no usé la tapita que trae el kit, y en su lugar puse una cinta de abrojo (velcro). Cabe aclarar que es importante marcar el punto donde se ubica la Lipo, ya que si la corremos variará la ubicación del centro de gravedad. La bancada para el motor outrunner la hice tipo cajita, con 4 lados de balsa y una tapa de terciado donde se atornilla el motor. Es recomendable que esta bancada sea firme pero no muy robusta, a fin de funcionar como fusible y salvar al motor. Puede hacerse también con 4 tarugos largos que unan la cruz del motor insertándose en el telgopor. Tanto el fuselaje como el ala fueron pintados con pintura acrílica al agua con un esquema que facilita diferenciar el modelo de arriba y de abajo. Todos estos cambios llevaron el tiempo de armado del modelo al doble, lo cual fue una buena inversión.

Motorización y equipo

El fabricante propone usar un motor brushed 370 o 400 ambos con reductora, más un pack de pilas de 6 celdas Ni-Mh, es decir una planta motriz que ya es parte de la historia. De todos modos si el modelo viene con el motor 400, tenemos el variador y le ponemos unas Lipo 3S1P de 1300mA va a volar decentemente. Para la prueba de vuelo se ha utilizado un motor brushless “genérico” de 56g, 150W y 1100rpm/v, una hélice APC-E 10×5, un variador de 20A y un pack 3S1P de 1300mA 20C (podría ir uno de 1100mA también). Esta planta motriz mueve la hélice a 8000RPM y provee un desempeño óptimo, permitiendo trepadas en la vertical y vuelos de 12 minutos más una reserva por si debemos repetir la aproximación. Con respecto al equipo de radio, el kit prevé utilizar 3 servos de 7~10g de peso, con un equipo de 4 canales y receptor de bajo peso. Para alimentarlo se ha utilizado el BEC del variador. Yo estoy usando un equipo programable ya que me permite tener mandos con exponencial y hacer algunas mezclas, pero para este modelo esto es más un lujo que una necesidad.

Hi,

Check out the review for ParkZone’s ultra-micro Su-26m Sukhoi R/C plane. We also feature a review of Mayfair Game’s Catan Dice Game by the staff of The Hobby Shop in Wilson, NC.

Tim Kidwell, associate editor

Per fi un dia amb bon vent, 12nusos, 11 proves, 12 embarcacions i una visita de altura o de las alturas, benvinguda Marijó. També ens hem recuperat del desencís de l’anterior jornada sense vent.

We’re just coming off of iHobby Expo here, and we saw a lot of you at the event. As always, it was good to see the people we knew and to make some new friends. I asked a lot of people there what they thought of the show, and got a lot of different answers. The thing is, you really don’t know the value of the show until later.

One of the best conversations I had at Rosemont was with Walt Throne from Walt’s Hobby in Syracuse, N.Y. As someone who’s been around the retail hobby business for decades, he’s seen the economy go up and down numerous times. The current situation is just another bump — albeit a serious one — in the road.

However, the thing he said that really stuck with me is, “I’ve never been to a show that didn’t pay for itself somehow,” either through a deal he got on merchandise or something he learned there either in a seminar or from another retailer that helped his business.

I know he’s not alone in that sentiment, either. There’s a reason we see so many familiar faces at the shows, and it’s not just for the social aspect.

Other impressions from the show:

It’s a psychological win to have even have had a trade show in the current economy. Do you know how many other industries have canceled their shows this year? Las Vegas, a city known for hosting many of them, has seen convention visitors fall off 26% this year.

The dealers that came were there to do business. A number of the manufacturers I talked to — not all of them, but most — said they wrote a lot of orders. Programs like Ticket to Ride helped.

Nobody was preaching doom and gloom. In fact, most people I talked to — retailers, manufacturers and distributors — said they were at least doing OK and were upbeat about the future.

There’s certainly reason for optimism; the public days drew 20,000 people, blowing last year’s record crowd of 15,000 out of the water. That tells me there’s plenty of interest in hobby products out there. Don’t wait for customers to come to you; go get them!

Hal Miller, editor

เปิดแล้ว อย่างยิ่งใหญ่ อิอิ
เอาไว้จะมาอัพเดท เรื่อยๆ นะครับ

xerradeta al moll

Doncs un altre dia de paciència. Només hem pogut realitzar tres proves que no han servit per classificar a la lliga. Ho hem intentat tot, canviar el recorregut varies vegades i res. L’últim intent ha estat agònic, només ha entrat la meitat de la flota. Total, que hem passat un diumenge de passeig pel moll, amunt i avall…

Step 3: The CG. The best CG location depends in part of your likes. After testing the model with the user manual forest CG location, it’s time to move it aft. This is usually very simple and only need to move the pack aft. Always make little changes (1/8 inch in the pack position it’s ok), and always make a mark to point out exactly where the pack was placed. For most of the 3D maneuvers an aft CG is a great helper. Only one advice is needed here, after some point a little movement of the CG aft means a huge change in stability, then be very careful with the latest adjustments you made because changes are not proportional near the optimal point for 3D.

Step 4: Motor incidence. To change the motor incidence can be as simple as to add or remove some washers in the motor mounting, and it pays the effort twice. Try this, flying in line and levered put the motor at full power without moving elevator letting the model to gain speed. After a few seconds cut the power and see what happens. Our goal is to have no changes in the altitude during all the test. If the model goes down at full power and up after cutting it, the motor has too much negative incidence (it is “pointing” down) and needs some washers in the bottom mounting screws, and vice versa if the model goes up when the power is at the top and down when is cut.

Step 5: Motor incidence 2. Now is time to set the right incidence, to do this we need to climb the model in the vertical as long as we can and see if the model goes right or left at the end of the climb. No rudder correction should be done during this test. If the model goes right it means that it has too much incidence, and then we need to add some washers in the right mounting screws. We need to do the contrary if the model goes left. Please consider that the nut that hold the propeller should be always in the center line. A motor pointing to the right but with an offset to the right, it is the same that nothing, or worse. Then if you need to add a lot of right, consider too to move the back of the motor to the left, keeping the propeller centered in the same line that the rudder is.

Steps 4 and 5 must be repeated if you change either the motor or the propeller, that’s why you need first to select the proper ones.

Step 6: only now we are ready to apply some mixing in order to improve performance a little. May be some down elevator at full power, may be some left rudder at idle, or some elevator (up or down) with rudder to mitigate coupling in knife edges. Anyway, mixers do not solve problems, just mitigate them. Furthermore, big amounts of mixing probably ends in new and worse problems.

The order of the steps is important too, as well as to try all this at a safe altitude. To ask an experience buddy for helping is a good idea too.

All this process take time, then take it easy, mix some fun sessions between the trimming ones, and most important enjoy the flight. Once the model is trimmed, you will appreciate the effort.

Nice landings!

This month, we review the E-flite 4-Site R/C plane, Scalextric’s new GT40 Mk.II slot car, a puzzle and building set from Mudpuppy, Looney Lab’s “Are You the Traitor?”, the P-51D R/C plane from ParkZone, and Proto N’s Norfolk & Western Y3 2-8-8-2 locomotive.

Tim Kidwell, associate editor

cel, terra i mar

El dissabte a Arenys vam donar la sortida a 23 creuers que anaven fins les illes Medes i tot seguit una regata del trofeu timonell de 6 milles. El Xavi em va abandonar per seguir la travessia i jo vaig haver de fer les arribades i el millor de tot atracar al port el Thro. Per ser la primera vegada en maniobrar amb dos motors, estic prou contenta. Va ser un atraque de popa total però molt net, es a dir que no va patir ni un sol bony

El diumenge al Fòrum es va aplaçar la regata de radio control i va ser una bona excusa per presenciar els avions fen piruetes espectacular a unes velocitats de por. A l’horitzó es veia una filera d’embarcacions de 300 vaixells com a mínim, un gran espectacle.

You can make the difference between a good model and a superb acrobatic machine, it will take only few steps to do it, and we can tell you how.

Step 0: first the first, if your model is not assembled yet, it is a good investment to spend time assuring that all the surfaces are properly aligned. Wing alignment and is easy if it comes with a spar, if not we need to align it and glue it with 45 minutes epoxy in order to allow us to make corrections before it dry. Tail alignment is may be the hardest part of the job, but still not difficult if we use slow cure epoxy and we align the tail with the wing properly installed. Commonly the motor incidence are given by the manufacturer, and we only have to respect them.

Step 1: radio set up. To program your radio properly helps a lot and makes the training easier. If you are going to learn 3D, a dual rate configuration it’s a must. We need full range movement for the 3D acrobatics, and a partial rate for the rest of the flight, 60% of the travel is an usual value. Together with this we need to add some –30% to –40% of exponential for a linear feeling in the low rate and –60% to –75% for full range travel. It will help to be more precise around the center without loosing the power at the end of the travel. This values are a starting point, probably rudder, aileron and elevator need different values depending the model and our tasting. No mixers are set yet. After this you need to fly the model and be comfortable with it before doing the next step. May be during this step you need to change mechanically the center or the travel of the surfaces, and this is the best moment to do it. If you are not going to flight 3D, the use of 3D rates is useless and affect adversely the resulting servo torque and precision. Then try always to flight with the radio rates at 100% and the trims centered.

Step 2: Now it’s time to select the best propeller for it. A prop with more diameter will give us more trust, and a one with more pith more speed, the limit will be given by the power plant. For example if the motor can handle a 10×6 prop, we can try with a 9×7 and a 11×5 and see what happen. In my experience rigid props are better for acrobatics than the floppy ones, as well as more efficient. With this set up we will proceed with our path to excel, but keep in mind that a change in the power plant means to trim all the model again.

As I am sure many of you are experiencing, the flying fields and tracks have been flooded with electric power. Over the past few years, there has been a huge push from glow to electric, but the past 6 months have been nothing less than amazing. On the car side, it seems that new brushless systems and RTRs are being released daily, trying to catch up with the already more mature electric airplane movement. We are seeing explosive (no pun intended) increases in battery capacity, both in Lipo and NiMh, and as happens in a dynamic market, prices coming down. Competition is fierce, with the best values in performance making faster cars and airplanes far more economical.

The pilots at Hobby People have been very active testing lots of new airplanes, with lots of battery and motor combinations. The hard core are constantly pushing the envelope, with higher performance discharge batteries and incredibly powerful motors, while trying to find the most efficient prop. RC has always been a brain game, challenging the modeler to think outside the box to get the best performance most economically. We have been very lucky to work with many of the Airtronics Flight Team and they have been greatly helping us with testing, performance benchmarking, and seeing what peak performance in the hands of an elite pilot can really do.

Our sponsored Airtronics Drivers have been sending us equally impressive information. While I think my driving skill might cause some to want to take away my license, my son and I have been racing a HPI Savage Flux, which is a brushless 1/8 Scale Monster truck. This is one powerful and incredible fun truck that has been designed to withstand the rolling, crashing and all out beating from people like me, who are as likely to only have 2 wheels ever on a jump at a given time and end up rolling, twisting, flying around the asphalt.

With the incredible interest in electric, we are going to be releasing lots of new airplanes and cars that will peak your interest. Please know that we are also intensely focusing on supporting all of our glow fans. The great think about the hobby is that it is never a either/or option, it is more of a let’s do both.

This holiday season promises to be a hobbyist’s heaven, so much product that will perform better than anything the hobby has seen before, at great prices too. Hobby People is releasing many new helis, cars, planes, batteries, and charges that will bring the hobby to new heights. Be sure to visit your local Hobby People store, or come to hobbypeople.net to see all the new stuff today. Take good care, and we will look forward to seeing you soon.

Spitfire banded to top of camera tripod. Bedroom wall as background. Will airbrush out tripod and paint some clouds in the background when I can get the hang of Photoshop.

To make way for remodeling, employees moved products around and took apart displays and shelves.

“Who’s making all that noise?” “It smells like paint in here.” “What’s going on behind that wall?”

The staff at Hare’s Hobby Shop in Alexandria, La., got used to hearing these questions during a recent remodeling job in which the store expanded its retail space from 1,500 to 2,300 square feet.

Hare’s, which has been around more than 30 years, sells primarily radio-control, model railroad and plastic model products. According to Michael Hare, owner, sales increased in 2006, fell off a little in 2007, but increased dramatically in 2008. “It was my best year ever,” he said. That spring, he had an off-road dirt R/C track built behind the store.

Based on these successes, Hare decided it was time to make more of his property, a former auto-repair shop. Major work had already been done at the site back in 2004, but that was when it was a vacant building and the hobby store was operating at a different location.

This time, Hare was determined to keep the store open while the remodeling took place. But that meant taking on a number of challenges. Hare’s two full-time employees had to take apart displays, shelves, bookcases and cabinets and move them out of the way.

They moved some products outside and others to different parts of the store. They worked late – beyond store hours – to accomplish these tasks. Besides extra pay, Hare rewarded them with in-store credit.

“It helps to have an excellent staff,” he said. “They really believe in what we’re doing.”

Even though the remodeling work took place behind a wall so that customers didn’t see the mess, they could smell the paint, hear the noise made by various tools and see dust. Instead of putting up barricades, Hare decided he would let his staff show customers around the work site – keeping safety in mind. “We told customers, ‘It’s because of you that we can do this!’ That got them excited,” Hare said. “It gave them a sense of anticipation.”

Hare admits there were times he wondered what he was getting himself and his staff into, especially in June and July when there was no air-conditioning in back because new ductwork had to be installed. As anyone who is familiar with that part of the country will tell you, Louisiana summers are oppressively hot and humid.

“But now, it’s all worth it,” Hare said. Besides expanded space for the retail portion of the shop, there’s 800 square feet for an office and 600 square feet for a repair shop, which is a brand new service keeping one of Hare’s staff busy with R/C and model railroad jobs.

Hare’s Hobby Shop recently joined the local Chamber of Commerce, which will likely hold a ribbon-cutting at the store in spring. Hare said he hopes to have a new HO-scale layout up and running by then and plans to turn the event into a grand re-opening, even though the shop never closed. “I’ve got a picture in my head of what I want the store to look like,” he said.

In the meantime, feedback has been consistently positive. “Customers say the store looks more open, cleaner and more professional,” Hare said. Despite a down economy, Hare said the store is flourishing.

If you’re thinking about remodeling your store, here’s a key lesson to be learned from Hare’s experience: “Let your customers know what’s going on,” he said. “Tell them, ‘Thanks to you, we can do this.’ Give them a sense of ownership in the store.”

Photos of the store’s remodeling job can be seen on Facebook. Enter the words “Hare’s Hobby Shop.”

Sue Brettingen, associate editor

My cheap Yuntong Smart Balancer from HobbyKing.com (luv ‘em!) arrived a couple of weeks ago, I’ve been using it a lot, and I’m happy to say that it actually seems to work. The ability to balance “offline” (while not charging) is surprisingly useful, because I can balance my LiPos while my charger is busy doing other (NiMH related) things. $19? Crazy price. I sometimes wonder if HobbyKing is too good to last.

Visit Model Retailer and read reviews for the 1:10 Tamiya 1973 Ford Bronco CR-01, 1:12 Robby the Robot from Polar Lights, E-flite Blade S300 micro helicopter, Pack & Stack by Mayfair Games, E-flite PT-19 450 ARF R/C and Control Line airplane, and 1:20 Hasegawa Falke Antigravity Armored Raider.

Tim Kidwell, associate editor

[GuySoft] sent in this project. He doesn’t normally mess with electronics, but decided to give it a try. He chose a fairly complicated project to be his first, but seems extremely comfortable with it. This project was to control his R/C car with a pic16f84. That chip was chosen simply because it was the only one available at local stores. Though we’ve seen much more complicated projects in the past, he does a great job of showing exactly what has been done. He shares his thoughts and source code with us as well. He has express a little frustration about the closed source compiler he was using, so if anyone has any suggestions for him, he would probably appreciate it.  The funny part is that he mentions that people would just tell him to “get an AVR”. We think the readers here will probably be happy with how he pulled it off.