What cheap gimmicks are we using to get people to watch our online wine show?

–*We’re doing it from St. Bart’s.

–*We’re doing it naked.

–*We never taste Merlots.

–*We only drink Merlots.

–*We’re using the skull of a lowland druid as a spit bucket.

–*We’re using the New York Jets as a spit bucket.

–*The show is hosted by Elmo.

–*The show is hosted by an austere German baby nurse named Benz.

–*We always start by comparing every wine unfavorably to our favorite Northern Rhone that tastes like a French barnyard.

–*We do the show from a French barnyard.

–*We do the show in a burn ward.

–*David Lee Roth will come to your house.

–*We only taste harsh acidic wines from cool climates and measure each by how much sour “O” face it gives you–in a very special segment we like to call “The O Face.”

–*We only taste wines made by adult film stars.

–*We have a special migraines and flatulence segment.

–*Our tag-team hosts include one seasoned sommelier and a spasmodic Borscht Belt comedian who humps the grape vats for cheap yuks.

–*Every week, our on-location show ends in a Jerry Springer-style fistfight after we insult the vintner, usually after our host makes some comment like “Your wine has too much tannin on the back of the palate. You gonna do something about it?”

–*It is as true as anything Aristotle wrote in Metaphysics that your show has a better chance of being watched if Flavor Flav is in it.

Bonjour, j’ai eu beaucoup de retours sur mon film “Flux” et je voulais expliquer quelques petites choses.

“Flux” est un film de commande, j’appelle ça un “court métrage communicant”.
C’est YN productions, Gérard Pélisson qui est venu me chercher pour réaliser ce film. Au début ce devait être un simple film de communication institutionnelle. J’ai proposé au Sytral qui est l’organisme qui gère les TCL (Transports en Commun Lyonnais) un tout autre film. Je suis tombé sur un service de communication et un président intelligent qui ont validé mon idée basée sur le fait de raconter une histoire, une sorte de mini film choral focalisé sur les usagers et non sur les infrastructures techniques. Je dois les remercier et remercier aussi mon producteur qui ont su me faire confiance et me donner carte blanche.

Le choix de tourner léger c’est imposé par des problématiques de logistique, pour réduire les temps de trajets, nous avons
monté une équipe qui ne se déplaçait qu’avec les transports en commun. Régie minimum embarquée dans un sac à dos, pied ultra légers type “GorillaPod” pour se fixer sur les rambardes et les poignées dans les métros. Maquilleuse équipée d’une simple trousse de maquillage et qui faisait aussi la comédienne, tout le monde (sauf moi) faisait partie du film et des figurants. Tourner avec le GH1 m’a aussi permis de faire des économies non négligeable et j’ai pu ainsi avoir tous mes figurants / comédiens et disposer du temps necessaire pour faire mon film. Au final les plans Hélicoptère ne sont pas indispensables au film mais j’ai aimé les faire pour le 2eme film car le Stytral m’a commandé une version institutionnelle quand même qui présente le réseau TCL et ses évolutions futures.

Les photos du tournage sont ici

http://www.hauteroche.com/flux/

Pour ceux qui ont loupé la présentation du film voici plusieurs adresses pour le voir

Sur vimeo (excellente qualité en mode 720p mais un peu lourd pour les vieux ordis et les connections trops lentes)

ici : http://vimeo.com/7602370

Sur YouTube, la qualité est moins bonne mais la plateforme de diffusion s’adapte plus facilement.

ici :

Who knew that there is a revolution going on in Wine?

Let’s look at the confluence of events that have resulted in the unprecedented explosion of value, accessibility and knowledge.  The US will soon become the largest consumer of wine in the world and we have access to more world wines and types of wine than ever before.  This increase in demand has driven increased exports and planting in countries like Argentina, New Zealand and Chile by 100-800% in the last 5 years alone.   Shipping around the world has become very inexpensive and during this recession it is almost free.  You can load a container and ship it around the world easier than you can ship your car across the country.    The internet has created a seamless transfer and sharing of knowledge that creates communities based on energy and engagement as opposed to geographic boundaries, and yet for all the transparency that exists in this era, physical boundaries have become more important than ever.  The climate of regions like Anderson Valley differentiate themselves from areas even 1 hour away given their proximity to the cool ocean breezes (flowing from North to South – unlike the Atlantic) and daily sunshine.  Marlborough has always been a great agricultural production region and their world wide recognition of bright and drinkable Sauvignon Blanc has resulted in a staggering amount of new plantings which will only support a stronger wine community and hopefully more value based wines for the world market.  Knowledge sharing leads to opportunities like Carmenere (believed to be Merlot until 1985), Malbec and Pinots from regions like Patagonia (which can be found at France & 44 wine shop – Humberto Canale) becoming wines that can easily be obtained at the corner wine shop or many small but good restaurants (like Cafe Maude).

Additionally, in the US we have an amazing selection of $7 to $15 wines.  Wines like Torrentes from Argentina, excellent Bordeaux blends, etc.. make trying a new wine easier and less of a risk than ever.  If you travel across the world, you will see how good we have it in the US (even given our three tiered distb. system and state by state shipping laws), where a $10 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon costs $40 (China) to $90 (Russia) around the world.  So, take advantage of it.

We are celebrating Thanksgiving with one of our favorite wine makers, Londer Pinor Noir and Syrah.  Speaking of Syrah, with its darker fruits and earthy acids, WineTribe offers up a blog from a distinguished lover of wine, Charles P Donly, who has been drinking the best of French wines for over 40 years.  We are lucky enough to have him share his love of Rhone wine with us.  The Rhone region is south of Burgundy to the east of Paris and before you get to the Mediterranean.  The best of these wines provide a beautiful blend of plum fruits mixed with earth and a beautiful long finish without being as heavy or serious as a big burgundy.  So, enjoy this gem over the holiday and let it inspire you to pick up a few new wines from these regions we describe.

My tip to you from this blog is to pick up an appellation map of France and the next time you open a bottle, figure out where it is from.   Then, take the extra step to look for the regions surrounding it.  You can usually find great values by picking a wine near a well known appellation (like Gigondas vs. Chateauneuf-de-Pape).  Or, you can go one step further and find others who create similar blends, like the “Rhone Rangers” in California (e.g., Marilyn Remark in Carmel Valley).

Bon Appetit et a vous Sante!

C&C

The Journey Is Complete

The Red Wines Of The Rhone Valley by Charles P Donly

I am not a wine connoisseur or a collector and, point in fact, I am simply a daily wine consumer and have been for the past fifty years.

Nor do I have a dazzling enology vocabulary that many of the nouveau wine world find even more enjoyable to articulate than the consumption of this magnificent gift from Bacchus.

I live by the philosophy of two men I greatly admire for many reasons and wine is certainly one of them.  Dr. Samuel Johnson, an English writer in the seventeen nineties, was quoted as saying:

“A day without wine is like a day without sunshine”

while Ernest Hemingway succinctly stated:

“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.”

My journey through the fascinating and constantly evolving world of enology started about 1960. From that time to the present I have religiously drank nothing but wine, most always with dinner, and stayed almost exclusively, by choice, in the  French Burgundy and Bordeaux regions.

Toward the end of the eighties we were blessed here in Minneapolis when the D’Amico Corporation opened a restaurant downtown called The Azur (check out any of the alums at Tavern on France, The Local, La Bell Vie, Sea Change, and Black Sheep pizza). It featured French Mediterranean cuisine and the wine menu was dominated by French red wines from the Rhone valley.

As I subsequently learned the Rhone river valley is in Southeastern France and is a wine grape growing and wine producing area known for its red wines. The region is just under 150 miles long from North to South. It is located between the cities of Lyon in the North and Avignon in the South. All qualities of wine are produced there from Appellation Controllee to Vin du Table. Wine production is mainly red and rose, with only two percent white wines. Some of the vineyards there are very rocky. A wide variety of wine grapes are grown and blended in the region but the two most commonly used are Syrah and Grenache.

These wines were a totally new experience for me as Rhone wines were still virtually unknown in the United States. It was, far and away, my favorite restaurant with an outstanding cuisine, flawless service, an ambiance that led you to believe that you were in Southern France and that newly discovered and fascinating wine list. I spent many hours talking to the manager and key staff of The Azur and they told me that some of them had been sent by the owners to France with the mission to tour the vineyards of the French Rhone region prior to the opening of the restaurant. Without any real planning, analysis or classes on the subject, I just followed my taste dictates and soon was exclusively converted to those wines.

At this juncture I will have to point out that, like many of us Americans, I am not wealthy but I do earn, and always have, slightly higher than average income, and I have had the advantage, on occasion, due to my marketing profession, to be the beneficiary of New York City style expense accounts, so I have enjoyed the best wines from most regions.

However, on a day to day basis, I look for reasonably priced wines and it’s been my experience that the red wines of the Rhone Valley are the best priced for the quality they deliver. In particular, most of the reds are full bodied, have the exclusive French “terroir” aspect to enhance them, and therefore, are, as a group more earthy, full bodied and food friendly than any other wine region.

Whether you’re at the very top of their price range ( Cote-Rotie, Hermitage, Cornas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape) or at the lower scale with the Cotes-du-Rhones all Rhone wines have that earthy, very real and substantial characteristic to them. I would like to single out Gigondas as my favorite when I consider price and product represented. They are in the price range of $25-35 and seldom disappoint so I would say that’s what I’ve uncovered as my choice for the best buy in wine today. They never seem to fail and it’s bite and muscularity translate into one word – real. They are almost always robust, well balanced and aromatic. A close second to Gigondas but in a slightly lower price range, and with similar qualities, is Vacqueyras.

In the $10-20 price range I’d rather take my chances with various Cotes-du-Rhone selections than the Argentine Malbecs or the Chilean reds which although adequate, on a random basis don’t match up to the Cotes-du-Rhones. American Reds in that grouping? If you’re prepared to do encyclopedic cogitation and traveling you’re blindly looking for the proverbial “needle in a haystack.”

In this “Opinion Paper” I’ve made it abundantly clear that I’m focused in on Reds of the Rhone Valley. Nevertheless, I’d be remiss if I didn’t cover White wines. I’ve occasionally had White Hermitages and Chateauneuf-du-Papes but my favorite moderately priced white wines are still from the Chablis region. On the other hand, I never turn down, when opportunity strikes, to truly enjoy a Meursault or any of the magnificent Montrachets from the Cote-Du-Beaune region.

- CP Donly

I think every single guy has an instinct on a night out to gravitate towards what he sees as the best possible single female in the group. If there’s more than one single guy, there’ll be a fight over her – it’s just the way it works. I know this all sounds a little too close to the analogy in the film ‘The 40 year old Virgin’ – I think it’s a lion taking down a gazelle there, but whatever, the metaphor works. We’re not as evolved as we’d like to think. I’d lost my way in my time in Bristol, given that nearly everyone I associated with was better looking than me. My best mate is a good example of this. He was 6’6” and blonde, a massive hit with the ladies, even though he was in a long-term relationship. He would monopolise any female attention, then go home early because he missed his girlfriend. Some people are just twats. But for this night, I was in my element. Andy had a girlfriend, I figured Dave would have already made a move if he was interested, and I was certain I had the edge over this Tom guy  (I should stop ragging on him though, once we’d started drinking it turned out he was a really nice guy). When we got back to my room, I could see that Jen would be the target. That makes me sound awful, but I’d say I’m better than most guys. I’m terrible at describing girls however, so this will sound vague, sexist and horrible, but here goes. Blonde curly hair, about average height, maybe slightly more, great boobs, good body, pretty face and beautiful (grey?) eyes. I realise I just undermined the ‘beautiful’ part by not knowing what colour they were, but they really were beautiful. I also made another realisation when we arrived back at my room: that night, Andy and I had eaten fish stew. I had prepared the garlic, and most likely stunk of it. But worse still, the unwashed, fishy pot was sitting on the floor of my room. So we sat and drank in my CROUS room with smelly fish stew pot on the floor. I was drinking disgusting rum and coke made from the rum Andy and I had bought as part of our abortive ‘let’s make cocktails’ experiment. The stuff tasted of petrol, and, knowing the French, I wouldn’t wholly discount it actually being some kind of fuel; the coke wasn’t much better, it being Lidl’s finest. Dave and everyone else had brought their own drinks, mainly vodka I think. You’re always safe with vodka. I remember Jen having some kind of drama because her plastic bottle of vodka in had leaked into her bag and onto her camera and phone. Tant pis, as the French say. The fact that she got with me after seeing my room is testament either to how drunk she was, or how much she liked me. I prefer the latter, but I know which is more likely. From the dirty washing on the horrible floor to the institutional furniture, it would quickly have become apparent that I did not live in a palace. Most French girls have discounted me completely once they learnt that I only own (rent) nine metres squared of room. The French dating world is a cutthroat one. At around 11pm, we left my room to make our way to the funicular (a slow, but convenient train pulled by a cable which eliminates the need to walk up or down the hill I live on and thus promotes laziness). I left Andy behind with Dave and Tom, while I walked on ahead and chatted to Katie and Jen (but mainly to Jen). We talked about jobs – we had both applied for Foreign Office internships, but been rejected. We talked about Birmingham, and York, and Bristol. After a brief stop at the bottom of the hill for an al-fresco piss (I have now pissed almost everywhere in Lyon), we made our way to the banks of the Rhone. The club we were going to was in fact a barge, moored on the side of the river, called La Marquise. It’s a pretty cool place I suppose: the music’s good, and it attracts a good student crowd. It’s always fun to take newcomers there as well, as the novelty of a club on a boat rarely disappoints. Nevertheless, I do sometimes miss the dive bars I used to go to in Bristol. There’s something far too clean about French bars. Where’s the drunken passed-out girls, the stench of vomit, the cheap beer? Oh well, when in Rome…

I picked this up for $6.99. This wine owes its bargain status to three little words: cotes du ventoux. A lesser known appellation in France’s Rhone Valley, it produces grenache, cinsault, syrah, carignan, and mourvedre. I’ve tasted several cotes du ventoux and I think the quality is generally decent for the price. If you’re looking for a good table wine that won’t break the bank, you could do much, much worse than choosing a cotes du ventoux.

Now, on to La Vieille Ferme’s offering. According to the bottle, this blend is 50% grenache, 20% syrah, 15% carignan, and 15% cinsault, and is 13.5% alcohol by volume. The wine is much lighter in color, showing light ruby and garnet tones, than what may come to mind when thinking of a Rhone wine. In the glass, I smelled aromas of leather, berries, and black cherries, in that order. The body is medium-light, with moderate tannins. At first, there’s an off-putting imbalance in alcohol level that overpowers the fruit, to the point that I wasn’t able to taste any fruit at all. But give it a few minutes and the alcohol becomes much more balanced. I think this wine should be decanted for about 15 minutes or so. After aeration, the subtlety of the fruit flavors mixes well with the tannin and leather, creating a pleasant velvety feeling in the mouth.

In the end, La Vieille Ferme’s Cotes du Ventoux is a very drinkable wine. It’s nothing spectacular, but it’s certainly much better than other wines that can be found at this price point.

Where to Find It: All over, including Bevmo and Wine.com.

Révolution douce dans les transports lyonnais

La ville et l’agglomération essaient d’inverser la logique du “tout-voiture” en misant sur la diversité des modes de déplacement.

Le Monde.fr

Voir aussi

• Le Monde.fr – L’homme-clé des transports et le défenseur du vélo

Menu—check. Guest list—check. All you have left to worry about is what noteworthy vintage to uncork at your feast. Pairing wines can seem like a daunting task, but with Zupan’s Sommelier, Amber Kinjerski, on hand, choosing the perfect bottle for your holiday fare is a piece of cake.

For Thanksgiving, with turkey as the main entrée, there a couple of routes you can take to achieve a great food and wine pairing. If you want to go the traditional route, serve a German Riesling. A 2000 Jos. Christoffel Jr., Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett is a fantastic choice for a Riesling that has some age on it. It’s a classic match that is sublime with turkey. The sweetness of a Riesling complements the sweetness in the meat and isn’t overbearing or heavy. Remember, turkey is poultry; lighter wines pair better with it. Plus, we generally eat enough heavy food on Thanksgiving—there’s no need to add heavy wine to the mix.

Alternately, for red wine lovers, you can serve a Pinot Noir with turkey as well. Pinot is neither heavy nor tannic, but has enough body to pair well with meats. For the locally inclined, Amber recommends an Oregon favorite: A 2008 Ken Wright Cellars, Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir. The 2008 vintage is shaping up to be a great one—generously fruity, supple and full bodied—that pairs extremely well with any dish featuring cranberries.

Getting further into the holiday party season, and a more diverse menu, Amber also pulled a few sure-fire winners from the Zupan’s Cellar to serve at your table or bring to a party.

For the carnivores, try a 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Le Vieux Donjon. The 2007 vintages from the Rhône are the best we’ve seen in the last 25-30 years, with fruit notes that are generous, dark and gripping. This wine will cut through the fat and gristle of any of the heavier meats (beef or lamb), and has enough body and texture to stand up to even the juiciest cuts!

For seafood lovers and vegetarian diners, a White Burgundy is an excellent choice. It goes with nearly everything. Like Chardonnay, White Burgundys are Blanc de Blancs wines (made with 100% Chardonnay grapes), but are an enchanting counterpart to traditional California Chardonnay. White Burgundys have less oak on them and more floral characteristics, making them a beautiful complement to white fish or salmon. Amber’s favorite is a 2006 “Les Bassets” Domaine Laurent Cognard, Montagny 1er Cru.

When it comes time for dessert, Amber is thrilled over the grower’s Champagnes she’s ordered for the 2009 party season. Grower’s Champagnes are small batch, artisan Champagnes sourced from their namesake region in France. The growers raise their own grapes, neither buying from nor selling to other growers. They personally attend to the entire wine making process themselves, which results in very unique and special wines. These Champagnes are all organic and often bio-dynamic.

Two of the best are the L. Aubry, Brut NV—offering a clean finish and high citrus fruit notes—and the Pierre Gimonnet, Cuis 1er Brut NV with hints of buttery brioche and an opulent, rich texture. Champagne is best with light, fruity desserts (torts, sorbets, etc.) rather than rich sweets such as cake or pumpkin pie (see below for Amber’s advice on picking a wine to pair with richer desserts).

Amber also has some excellent general tips for choosing which wines to serve at, or bring to, holiday meals:

• Always consider the weight of the food compared to the weight of the wine. The lighter the fare, the lighter the wine—and vice versa. For instance, if Dungeness Crab Cakes are the entrée, avoid pouring a bold wine such as a Cabernet. It will overpower the dish—you want to strike a balance.
• If you’re bringing wine to a party, don’t hesitate to ask your host/hostess what they are serving. This way you can be sure to choose a wine that will compliment the meal rather than distract from it.
• If you use a good deal of herbs in your cooking, Rhône wines—especially from the 2007 vintage—are the way to go. They have an inherent herbaceousness that naturally creates a stellar pairing.
• Port is fantastic for rich, holiday desserts. The darker flavor profiles (such as pumpkin, dark chocolate and spice) work well with Port’s caramel and molasses traits.
• Feel free to ask for assistance from Zupan’s wine stewards. They look forward to helping you choose a fabulous wine for every occasion and budget.

Behöver ni mer än rubriken? Sveriges egen kravallcrozes är testad och klar och försedd med en sån där tvåa som svenska tidningar delar ut till Micke Nilsson när han inte bidragit aktivt till motståndarmålen. Och då fick den gärna knapra lite på sin prislapp.

Jag gillar verkligen Graillots tjurigt slimtrimmade charkdiskar, även om jag också plirar förvirrat när kön rensar Mörby C på fem minuter. Tidigare årgångar har slitit hårt och framgångsrikt i köket på Creutzgatan. Men medan man kan köpa 2007 års sydrhônare med förbundna ögon blåste det mer motvind uppe hos Alain.

Alltså finns det mesta man önskar sig i doften: seniga charkuterier utan en massa fett, granbarr, örter, järn, ett helt lass vitpeppar, någon violton och mörka hallon (eller röda björnbär… välj det som känns minst ansträngt). Ett kul blindprovarvin om man vill glänsa med att spika producenten på tre sekunder. Medan smaken har hela listan – utan riktig substans. Graillots crozes brukar behöva några år, je le sais bien, men stoppning och djup lär inte materialiseras i garderoben. Och så en lite omogen känsla i svalget, trots att tanninerna är överraskande milda.

Lammfärsbiffar med bacon och rosmarin i färsen, trattkantareller i såsen, och Alain och vi har det rätt bra när dottern har somnat. Men slank och senig är inte samma sak som tunn och blodfattig.

//anders

PS: Roligast med den här flaskan: vårt sent påkomna gästköande i systembutiken i Nordstan, i Sveriges stolta framstjärt. Hundratals människor. Och tre parallella, spontant uppkomna köer, plus ett förvirrat försök med kölappar som tog slut alldeles för tidigt. Hätska dispyter i trängseln? Blod blandat med 2000 Pol Roger BdB upp till fotknölarna? Nä då. Bara en bygdens son som till slut sjunger sanningen ut över massorna.
-Men nu får ni la änna styyyra opp detta…

President Obama has traveled extensively overseas in his first ten months in office.  During some of these visits he offered a reoccurring apology for America’s past sins.  His approach is perplexing and is probably an attempt by the President to gain cooperation from other governments for his foreign policy agendas.  This is misplaced diplomacy.  Countries pursue policies that are good for their interests and the personal re-election needs of the politicians, not because of niceties expressed by another country’s politician.

The President’s approach requires a view of America’s history from a distorted lens.  While American has not been without sin, it is the country that the world has turned to when there have been catastrophes and wars.  It is the place that immigrants have sought to escape the oppression of their native lands.

Before the President takes his next trip to Europe he should review the history of America’s roles in World War I and World War II.  In both cases, American came to the aid of a Europe ravaged in total war when America was geographically isolated from those conflicts.  When Europe was in shambles after World War II, it did not seek reparations that certainly were due it.  Instead, America came up with the philanthropic Marshall Plan and rebuilt Europe.

Financial cost aside, the true measure of America’s commitment to Europe can be seen in cemeteries that dot the continent.  Over 100,000 families of fallen GI’s chose to leave their soldier’s remains in the countries where they fell.  The list below includes those cemeteries and the lost of American lives.  For those that have distorted lenses, this sobering review is a great cleanup tool.

• American Cemetery at Aisne-Marne, France.  WWI.  2,289
• American Cemetery at Ardennes, Belgium.  WWII.  5,329
• American Cemetery at Brittany, France.  WWII.  4,410
• Brookwood American Cemetery & Memorial, England.  WWI/II.  468
• Cambridge, England.  WWII.  3,812
• Epinal, France American Cemetery.  WWII.  5,525
• Flanders Field American Cemetery & Memorial, Belgium.  WWI.  368
• Florence American Cemetery & Memorial, WWII.  Italy.  4,402
• Henri-Chapelle Cemetery, Belgium.  WWII.  7,992
• Lorraine American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWII.  10,489
• Luxembourg American Cemetery & Memorial, Luxembourg.  WWII.  5,076
• Meuse-Argonne American Cemetery & Memorial.  WWI.  14,246
• Netherlands American Cemetery & Memorial, Netherlands.  WWII.  8,301
• Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWII.  9,387
• Oise-Aisne American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWI.  6,012
• Rhone American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWII.  861
• Sicily American Cemetery & Memorial, Italy.  WWII.  7,861
• Somme American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWI.  1.844
• St. Mihiel American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWI/II.  4.153
• Suresnes American Cemetery & Memorial, France.  WWI/II.  1,541

Jabouletin Cornas löytyy Alkon tilausvalikoimasta, mutta myös Helsingin Erottajan hyllyvalikoimasta.

Kehittyneessä tuoksussa runsaasti eläimellisiä piirteitä, lantaa, punaisia marjoja ja paahdettua mantelia. Maku on keskitäyteläinen, viljainen, puolukkainen ja nahkainen. Kokonaisuus on komponenteitaan integroitunut ja miellyttävän hapokas. Vuorokauden aukiolon jälkeen lantaisuus haipuu taka-alalle ja korvautuu lihaisella savuisuudella ja kaalimaisella aromilla, josta huomaan pitäväni: nyt ‘burgundityylinen’ Pohjois-Rhônen viini on parhaimmillaan. Tallinnurkan ystäville pataruokien tai juustojen kanssa, miksei myös sellaisenaan.

4/5 pistettä

Eric Texierin viinien parissa vietetty ViiniTV:n ensimmäinen fanitasting sujui mukavissa merkeissä. Ihmiset olivat hyvällä tuulella ja viini varsin hyvää, joten kiitokset Etiketti.comille ja Toni Immaselle järjestelyistä. Alla muutama tunnelmakuva seuraavaa pidempää artikkelia vartoessa.

Ravintola Loft toimi pääkallopaikkana

Eric Texier, biodynaaminen ydinvoimainsinööri

Ikäjakauma oli monia viinitapahtumia freesimpi

Maistettuja viinejä rivissä

Sylkykupit pöydällä näön vuoksi

"toivon, ettei tämä Chardonnay maistu mielestänne Chardonnaylta"

...loppuun vielä kuva Turusta, jossa luennoin Sorbuksen iloista

]]> http://nettareegioia.wordpress.com/2009/11/04/dinner-in-la-la-land-2002-edition/ Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:56:43 +0000 anders wennerstrand http://nettareegioia.wordpress.com/2009/11/04/dinner-in-la-la-land-2002-edition/

Hunger. Dödspanik. Kättja.

Men efter dem måste väl nyfikenhet vara det sinnestillstånd som ansvarar för flest mänskliga handlingar. Bara som en bakgrund till att jag smäller spargriskrossande summor på ett världsberömt etikettvin – från ett skitår av littorinska dimensioner. Man måste ju få en glimt av vad de pratar om, de som dricker La Landonne varje år och berättar om det på forum, i böcker och tidningar. Kika över paradisets murar. Och ska man ha någon annan årgång än 2002 blir det till att krossa någon annans spargris.

Guigals mytiska la la wines ska ni slippa läsa mer om, om ni inte verkligen vill. La Landonne är den tyngsta i trion, gjord helt utan viognier och med sju hundrapoängslagrar från Baltimore under kudden. Hjärnbråkande 42 månader på nytt franskt även 2002 – inget fuskande med ekregimen trots att regnkatastrofen gjorde det svårt att få mogen frukt, alltså. Däremot avstjälkning, tvärt emot planen, eftersom stjälkarna var sorgligt illgröna.

Lillebror ställer hjortsadeln från Koberg (åtminstone halva) i ugnen och ett bättre tillfälle kommer nog inte innan den här relativt lagringsodugliga flaskan har passerat zenit. Och vet ni, det doftar faktiskt rätt underbart. Kafferost och karamell överst i glaset, och så anfall på bred front med förvånansvärd intensitet och komplexitet. Läder, grillat, peppar och viol sjunger om norra Rhône medan frukten balanserar mellan vinbär och kryddiga körsbär. Jag vet inte när jag sist upplevde en så intensiv doft.

Parker noterar ytlighet, och Stephen Tanzer stannar i spannet 89-92; en 70-kronors tisdagsbarbera för den som anser att 90 är lika med 90 är lika med 90. Och de pekar åt rätt håll. Det är klart att smaken inte levererar 2002. Mycket påminner om ung nebbiolo: Nickelfrukt, hallon med violkant, skyhög lingonsyra, lösningsmedel. Och så hela fatparaden i eftersmaken, från bittermandel till mocka, och lösningsmedlen hör nog hemma här egentligen. Rikedomen är inte att ta miste på, men ändå blir känslan lite tunn och omogen. Och den där nivån på lingonen var det nog ingen Guigal som önskade sig. Absurt fina tanniner, dock.

Jag vågar inte tänka på hur bra det här kan vara när solen skiner i Rhônedalen. Det är väl som folk brukar säga efter sitt bungy jump: Det var kul! Och jag skulle göra om det, om någon bjöd.

//anders

Världens Viner nr 5 2009 har temat Rhône och efter gårdagens smygläsning på Operakällaren, med tillhörande provsmakning av testvinnarna, så kan jag helt klart rekommendera de Rhônska vinerna.

Köp den och läs nu!

As it is the case of many other Peruvian dishes, this soup is the result of the combination of creativity and necessity. The word Aguadito translates literally as “little thin stew”, the diminutive form being common in Peru when talking about food. Economy has never been strong for long hauls in that part of the world and the custom of adding water to soups and stews was born spontaneously, as families grew larger and pockets shallower.

At the beginning of the Republic, around the 1830’s, the country’s political life was in complete turmoil and the Caudillos –warlords- fought one another for a chance to place their behinds on the Presidential Chair. On occasion, there were two –and even three- different presidents occupying the Palace of Government in a single year. Conspiracy and intrigue saturated the main cities, in which gun and sword battles full of sound and fury and galloping horses became the order of the day. Each Caudillo had his own personal army, as well as a wife and a number of mistresses, a fact that was not hidden but rather celebrated as an unequivocal sign of manliness, the full expression of the ancestral macho, condition considered indispensable for the exercise of power. More affluent Caudillos could meet their personal armies’ needs. Those less fortunate found hard to pay and feed their soldiery, and frequently they had to stretch their budgets to unimaginable limits.

It is said that one of such leaders, alien to the most basic military training, appointed himself as Mariscal –Marshall- and gathered a ragtag army to fight for a chance at becoming the President of Peru. To feed his ill-prepared troops, he hired a black cook known as the Negra Josefa. The woman was the owner of both extraordinary culinary talent and an indomitable nature. Her mouth was foul and her body, although shapely, was of planetary dimensions. Her hands concocted the most sublime flavors but rumor ran that the Mariscal was not only attracted to her culinary prowess.

From the very beginning, the woman had to find solutions to the scarcity of means that was the hallmark of the Mariscal’s operation. One good day, tired of having to do miracles to feed one hundred men with just a sack of rice and a few chickens, the Negra Josefa took the matters in her hands, and defying all advice given by friend and foe alike, crossed the military camp in a straight line toward the Mariscal’s tent. Full of resolve and anger, she pushed aside two guards who stood by the tent’s entrance. The camp fell silent and everyone listened intently for the oncoming shouting contest. The woman broke into a continuous rant that grew louder and louder, complaining of how she had to work wonders to feed the men and how the Mariscal never gave enough money to buy more groceries and that all she had for the day was two cauldrons full of Arroz con Pollo, and that would never suffice for the whole brigade.

The Mariscal listened to her in silence, and for the first time, overwhelmed as he was with his inability to get more funds to wage a losing war, he exploded in a tenor voice that until then had not been heard by anyone. “Carajo!” (the most sonorous Spanish expletive) he shouted. “Si no te alcanza echale agua!” (why don’t you add water to it!). He looked so menacing and the thunder of his voice was so unexpected that the proud cook cowered, and whispering “Yes, sir” she took off. The Mariscal did not mean what he said, as he knew nothing about cooking.

But the Negra Josefa, seeing the hungry faces of the soldiers took the idea into practice and eked out the Arroz con Pollo with plenty of water. She shredded the chicken and simmered the diluted dish, ending up with a thick soup, which she readily served to the troop, after squeezing a few limes on it and sprinkling it with chopped up aji peppers. When the starving soldiers asked what were they having for their meal the Negra Josefa answered dryly “watery (aguadito) Arroz con Pollo”. The soldiers loved the new preparation and the aguadito portion of the name stuck.

Curious like any good cook, Josefa tried different ingredients and perfected the recipe, which became a well known soup all on its own. The poor Mariscal eventually lost his war for power and was incarcerated for seven long years. During that period his loyal cook visited him every weekend with a pot full of the steaming dish, which he shared with other inmates and with the prison guards. After release, he married the Negra Josefa and helped her roll her cart on the streets, where they sold the best aguadito in town.

Today, the dish is very popular in Peru as a winter meal, but also among revelers who, after an exhausting night of drinking, search for good nourishment. The soup also gained a rather somber notoriety for being served at funerals, after long vigil nights. In its present form it is made with chicken, leftover Christmas roasted turkey or assorted seafood.

Click on link for Recipe

Wine for Aguadito

Pair with a copita (or more) of Peruvian Pisco. Red wine to match this dish: Pinot Noir or a lighter Southern Rhone. For white wine, Alsatian Pinot Gris or a rich Loire dry Chenin Blanc.

Here are my tasting notes (some, I left a couple out) from the Pinot Noir tasting held at Caveau Newlands organised by Jörg Pfützner. We tasted 12 Pinots in total with one or two Rieslings thrown in by Jorg before and after, he is a Riesling fanatic, and his Riesling Festival at the beginning was excellent. We also had a surprise at the end, but I’ll leave that until end as well.

All the Pinots except the Newton Johnson were decanted about 4-6 hours prior to the tasting, and all were served blind.

2006 Burnt Spur Pinot Noir, Martinborough New Zealand

A rich smoky nose that was somewhat reserved. The savoury character followed through onto the palate with a tinge of bacon. Was a little short for me with a fleeting raspberry moment. Good structure but on the whole quite one dimensional.

2007 Paul Cluver, Elgin Valley South Africa

A pale ruby with a touch of brick on the rim, a little worrisome for an 07. A sweaty nose with cherries quite prominent. The palate was all sour red cherries and juice. I love the width and length of the palate, a bit disjointed, but enjoyable. The acidity was very refreshing, couple people called the Paul Cluver as being from New Zealand and the Burnt Spear as South African

2007 Domaine Fourrier Morey St Denis ‘ Clos Solon’, Burgundy

A dense rich savoury nose, with a mineral nature underneath. Like a thick gravy that has been dropped on a gravel driveway. Lovely linear taught palate, slightly grainy like a poor TV picture not grain from a field. Savoury character is also present on the palate, superb balance and elegance. Really enjoyed this one.

Newton Johnson 2008, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa

This bottle had recently been opened and the group as a whole felt it wasn’t showing well. Quite a few of us had tasted it recently and found this experience to be very different. The nose had an initial strong aroma of burnt rubber, that blew off quickly (thank god, there were foreigners in the room). The palate was quite closed in comparison to my tasting it last week. The winemaker, who was present, said he’s been seeing the wine go through ups and downs from week to week, and as it is their first Pinot vintage they did not know what to expect, a case of "’let’s wait and see’.

Radford Dale Freedom Pinot Noir 2008, Elgin, South Africa

I really liked the nose on this wine, there was an initial level of red berries, strawberry and red cherries with an attractive oatmeal layer underneath. A strawberry oatmeal biscuit. The palate, however, disappointed with some strawberry showing. It was alright but seemed to lack assurance. The nose and palate seemed at odds with each other. 

2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint George, Burgundy 

A wine that divided the table. I enjoyed the aniseed and date nose which really came through on the palate. The acidity was tart and drew it all together for me. But Remington Norman, author and Burgundy expert, didn’t like it at all, but knowing the producer well he said it would turn out fine, but now it is just too rustic. He wasn’t sure if it even was Burgundian. On a technical analysis I have absolutely no doubt he is right, my ability to judge wines on that level is miniscule, but I enjoyed the character of the wine, its funk. It was a wine that was unquestionably not the best on the evening, but (going to personify now) it was the one I would go party with, it would wear a hat jauntily, tell the best stories, the ladies would love it, and it would probably piss of the establishment.

2006 Craggy Range Te Muna, Martinborough New Zealand

Looked like it was from a warmer climate, I picked it as South African. Remington nailed it and called it Craggy almost straight away. Ripe fruit on the nose, almost a touch confected. Red sour cherry on the palate with some oak spice showing a bit too much for me. A solid wine, that (this is Remington not me) will age well.

2007 Sumaridge, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa 

Remington loved this wine. And at around R140 cellar door it is a bargain. It was too meaty for me and felt a bit over weight. I’ll listen to Remington though and buy a case for 4-5 years time.

So I get to the last flight and I have become lazy at my note taking and obviously more chatty. These are remembrances rather than written perceptions I had at the time.

2001 Wither Hill, Martinborough New Zealand

I had dine a bit of reading before I went to the tasting and this wine was only supposed to last 4-6 years according to the wine maker, however even from the colour you could see it was very fresh. Vibrant bright nose, bits of farmy stink with good red fruits. The palate was wonderfully fresh and pure. I really liked this wine. It turns out that it had been kept for a couple years in a large cold house used for storing meat, the low temperature meant that is hadn’t developed.

2000 Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa

Corked. Had a strange nose of apples left in a box for too long.

2002 Domaine Hubert de Montille Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru, Burgundy

Undoubtedly the main act of the night. With the others doing a great job at getting the crowd ready, this Pinot stole the show. A pale colour that flowed together from core to rim. Can’t give exact flavours but it was just an incredibly sexy wine with various levels of flavours and aromas changing and evolving in the glass. In my short drinking life so far, this is one of the best Pinots I have tasted.

Once most of the people had left and there were about six of us left, Jorg got out a bottle he had been given for his Birthday: a 1977 Cote-Rotie La Mouline by Guigal. 1977 is known to be a terrible vintage for the Rhone, but Guigal is a great producer and Jorg said that we would probably find he has made a decent wine from a very difficult year.

1977 Cote-Rotie La Mouline, Rhone

The nose was a changing blend of loamy rich earth and dark olives. The earthiness followed onto the palate with a touch of the olives as well. Not much fruit left but there were hints of dark berries. I loved the earthy aspect of the wine. The acidity was still there and wonderfully fresh. For a difficult vintage this was a wonderful wine.

Sight
Clarity: Maybe clear to slightly cloudy
Color: Very dark
Depth: Very deep
Viscocity: Normal to heavy
Legs: Presence of legs indicate high alcohol

Smell
General Appeal: Decent appeal but not great
Aromas: Berries, alcohol, spicy, leather, herbal
Bouquet: Decent but not great

Taste
Sweetness: Dry
Tannins: Medium- to medium tannins
Acidity: Medium- to medium acidity
Body: Medium+ body
Length: Medium+ lingering
Balance: Decently balanced
General Comments: Decent wine to have without food though nothing stood out as great.

Food pairing
Local wild mushroom Risotto – The wine didn’t go well with the Risotto. Doesn’t seem like a good food wine. Need to try with other food.

Overall
About a 3.8 “without food” wine.

Same Great Wines – Even Better On Sale!

Below are some really nice wines with new sale pricing.
Stock up on your favorites!

2006 Livio Felluga “Terre Alte” – $29.99 on sale (reg $69.99)

An exquisite Italian white with a retail price of $70, on sale today for just $29.99! Wine Spectator says “A fantastic blend, this is now one of the best whites in Italy”.

Wine Enthusiast 92 points, Aug 2009: “This blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon delivers impressive aromatic intensity and a beautifully creamy texture. Youll get peach, apricot and soft citrus tones backed by subtle oak shadings and toasted nut. The wine is smooth and polished with an elegant and sophisticated style.”

Wine Spectator 92 points, Aug 2008: “($65)This sneaks up on you with lemon, apple, orange and mango aromas and flavors. Full and rich, yet delicate and lively, with a very, very long and flavorful finish. Tocai Friulano, Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon. Drink now. 200 cases imported.”

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2004 Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepuliano “Asinone” – $32.99 on sale (reg $59.99)
We just tried it last week and it is drinking just beautifully now – really a special wine for just $32.99. Lots of complexity and stuffing here!

Robert Parker 92 points, Oct 2008: “The single-vineyard 2004 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone reveals beguiling aromatics. With air, layers of vibrant dark fruit, tar, smoke, graphite and licorice develop in the glass as this beautifully-balanced wine struts its stuff. Ideally a few years of bottle age are warranted, but this wine is so appealing at the moment that readers might have a hard time waiting. I am confident that in a few years this wine will be even better. The wine’s finesse, tannins and texture are clearly those of a first-class wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024.”

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2005 Doña Paula Malbec “Seleccion de Bodega”- $29.99 on sale (reg $35.99)
Big rating from the Wine Advocate. With lots of backbone and structure, lay this one down in the cellar for about 2-3 years, at which point this wine will be singing!

Robert Parker 94 points, Dec 2008: “The 2005 Malbec Seleccion de Bodega received 24 months in new French oak. It has a splendid nose of pain grille, pencil lead, plum, black cherry, and earth notes. This is followed by an opulent, rich wine with gobs of flavor, incipient complexity and a 45-second finish. This wine will develop for another 6-8 years with prime drinking from 2015 to 2035.”

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2006 Chapoutier Ermitage “Le Meal” Syrah – $118.99 on sale (reg $169.99)
A terrific buy at $118.99 and 30% off. Only a few hundred cases were produced of this collectible that can cellar for 25+ years.

Robert Parker 94 points, Apr 2009: “From a warm micro-climate, Le Meal, (Michel Chapoutier says that the full phenolic maturity of the Syrah grapes at Le Meal can be achieved three weeks earlier than the grapes grown on the top of the appellation in the l’Ermite vineyard. Keep in mind that these two areas are within a ten minute walk of each other. This explains the French obsession with terroir, and how micro-climates can vary so dramatically.), the 2006 Ermitage Le Meal exhibits surprisingly tart acidity for a wine from such a warm site, a dense purple color, and sweet notes of boysenberries, black raspberries, blackberries, lead pencil shavings, pain grille, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, elegant, and lighter than Les Greffieux, it is tight and closed at present, but it displays the potential for 20-25 years of evolution.”

The Wine Spectator 96 points, Jun 2009: “Superdense but really fresh, with a wild array of zesty blackberry, loganberry, linzer torte and briar notes laid over perfectly embedded tannins. Long and pure through the finish, with lots of minerality waiting in reserve. Great length. Best from 2010 through 2025. 511 cases made.”

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2000 Delaforce Vintage Port – $27.99 on sale (reg $38.99)
A relative bargain for a vintage Port. Original release price was about $45!

Robert Parker 90 points, Oct 2002: “Made in a sweet, open-knit, precocious style, Delaforce’s 2000 reveals a dense ruby/purple color as well as sweet, accessible black cherry/blackberry fruit with hints of smoke, earth, and truffles. This lush, medium to full-bodied, juicy, succulent effort will last for 15+ years.”

Stephen Tanzer 90 points, Jan 2003: “($56) Full medium ruby. Roasted black raspberry and cassis lifted by musky espresso and an exotic smoky, peaty element. Dense and rich; sweet and approachable but with shape and grip. A bit youthfully grapey in the mouth, with smoke and earth notes. Finishes with building, slightly austere tannins and very good length.”

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2006 Pessagno Pinot Noir “Spring Grove” – $14.99 on sale (reg $26.99)
A very good Pinot for just $14.99! Lots of nice spice and red fruits.

Spring Grove Vineyards is a group of extremely small properties located in the Spring Grove District of San Benito County. Complex and elegant, this Pinot Noir offers aromas of red berries and fresh plums. The mouth feel is full and finely textured with subtle tannins and a touch of high natural acidity. French oak aging provides hints of vanilla and smoke as well as a slight perception of sweetness on the finish. Stylistically classic, this wine can be paired with various types of seafood, game, and spicy entrees.

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2005 Goulee Bordeaux – $19.99 on sale (reg $24.99)
A special wine for just $20. This comes from the folks at Chateau Cos d’Estournel and is a lot of wine for the price. Really tasty now and ageable, too!

JJ Buckley, Sep 2009: “Dark, dense, opaque red to cherry red rim. Dusty nose full of spice, licorice, soft blackberry and cherry fruit with a touch of oak, earth, and eucalyptus. Soft entry onto the palate , this modern wine is full-bodied with complex, dark flavors that carry through to medium-length finish. Shows great balance between acid, tannins, and alcohol. Drink now and over the next 10 years.”

Robert Parker, April 2008: “Proprietor Michel Reybrie and his winemaker, Jean-Guillaume Prats, have fashioned a brilliant blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The dark purple-hued 2005 reveals a sumptuous bouquet of licorice, black currants, black olives, smoke, and damp earth. Fleshy and supple-textured with good tannin as well as decent acidity, this seriously-endowed, complex effort can be consumed over the next 12-14 years.”

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2006 Laboure Roi Meursault “Clos de la Baronne” – $28.99 on sale (reg $58.99)
A spectacular price for such a good wine. Rich with minerality, it also has nice acidity to go great with food. A terrific buy!

The Wine Spectator, Jul 2008: “($67) Rich and sumptuous, but with character. Honey, butterscotch and a hint of hazelnut permeate the fleshy texture as this white remains mouthfilling from start to finish. Drink now through 2012. 200 cases imported.”

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2001 Ste Michelle Luxe – $9.99 on sale (reg $17.99)
This sparkling wine is a no-brainer at $9.99. You dont have to think twice about popping the cork – any occasion will do at this price!

Winemaker’s notes: “This bottle fermented wine, produced by traditional Méthode Champenoise techniques, exhibits explosive aromas of toasted almonds and hazelnuts accentuated by delicate citrus, honey and apple top notes. Rich and toasty flavors of vanilla, citrus, ginger and nutmeg saturate the palate and mesh nicely with the wine’s smooth texture and lively structure. This sparkling wine is a great match with clam chowder, planked salmon, cracked crab and many other seafood delicacies.”

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