I’ve spent part of the last week-end leafing through a lovely volume, Gypset by Julia Chaplin, about an emerging group of artists, musicians, fashion designers and surfers, who lead semi-nomadic and unconventional lives far from the spotlight, yet influencing celebrities and socialites. Their lifestyles are strongly multicultural, because they mix and match suggestions from other cultures and from the places they live in or they visit during their escapades. I think fashion has always taken exotic cultures as a source of inspiration and it still does, even if these influences are well hidden under the designer’s personal style. I was shocked when I first saw Givenchy Haute Couture collection for fall/winter 2009, because it contains hints to different cultural elements, combined in such a way that simply emphasizes the absolute genius of Riccardo Tisci. Tisci has always played with echoes from other worlds (think about the Mexican elements in the spring/summer 2009 collection), but this time he has out-done himself.

The ideas emerging from this collection are basically two: the first is a modern version of the Statue of Liberty’s spiked crown, related to wedding-like veils and dresses, and the second is an interesting elaboration of Bedouin face-veils and jewellery.

The dress seen on Mariacarla Boscono, Riccardo Tisci’s beautiful Italian muse, is reminiscent of a wedding dress, but modern touches are everywhere, especially in the plaid-houndstooth chiffon of the skirt and in the complex structure at the hips. The gold metal accessories contrast with the romantic mood of the dress and this makes the outfit fashion-forward.

Mariacarla and Karmen Pedaru walked the runway wearing spiked headbands, where the spikes are made of gold metal.

Karlie Kloss and Ana Claudia Michaels’ outfits are stunning: they wore strapless white dresses, with embellished bodices and flowy skirts. They both had their heads covered with a tulle veil and this is another romantic touch, which makes them look as brides.  The complex iconography related to the use of the veil is a fascinating journey through the cultures of different continents, and Tisci is well aware of this, because he gives this accessory several meanings.

The spiked headband seen on Karlie Kloss have silver metal spikes and is different from the ones seen on the other models, because it has two bigger spikes on the sides and four central studs. The primary source of inspiration must have been the Statue of Liberty, designed by the sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi in the nineteenth century: the radiant crown it wears has seven spikes, symbolizing the seven seas and the seven continents.

Fashionistas have immediately fallen in love with this extravagant accessory, so it is no wonder it has already become a cult object. Vanessa Traina, one of Danielle Steel’s daughters, known for her unique style, was seen wearing one just after Givenchy’s show. It’s not a case that Nicole Richie recently asked Santa – on Twitter – one of these headbands for Christmas: Vanessa is the face of Richie’s upcoming clothing collection, Winter Kate, so she must have loved it from the first moment she saw it on her friend.

She was soon followed by Eugenie Niarchos, who wore a different version, made of bronze metal.

What has really caught my attention are these two all-black outfits, where the intricate gold jewellery and the face decorations do all the talking. I love collecting jewellery from India or Middle East, so you might understand why I am currently obsessed with these gorgeous necklaces.

Leticia Alterbernd also wore lots of gold bangles around her wrists, and this is another sign of the influence that Bedouin culture has had on this collection. The hood of the jumpsuit was used as veil and this underlined – again – the source of inspiration.

Thousands of gold rhinestones have been applied by hand, one after the other, on the faces of the models, so as to create a sort of mask. These backstage shots are stunning, aren’t they?

If we compare the picture from the catwalk and the picture on the right, taken by Jean Besancenot in 1930, it is possible to understand the concept these decorations are based on. The Moroccan bride from Rabat had beads applied on her face, decorating her cheeks, chin and forehead, and the same can be said of Leticia. The model has rhinestones applied on the nose, under the eyes and on the temples, too, and this is due to the combination of two different wedding traditions – the beaded decorations on the face, as seen on the Rabat bride, and the face veil.

I am no expert of Moroccan, Bedouin and Muslim traditions, but I’ve found out that these amazing face veils, all embroidered and embellished by beads and coins (symbol of prosperity), are especially used by brides.

The veils cover the face but not the eyes, and this is important to realize that the crystal lines on Givenchy’s models are traced following exactly the lines of the veil. Mouth and chin haven’t been hidden because the intention was not to reproduce the traditional face-veil but just an idea of it.

This trend hasn’t been embraced by any celebrity (oh,maybe the ubiquitous Lady GaGa could sport these face decorations), but the gorgeous gold necklace (combining coins, spikes, chains and studs) was seen on Rihanna in the fierce photoshoot by Steven Klein for Vogue Italia (September 2009 issue). As for me, I wouldn’t think twice and immediately wear such a beauty all the time. I’m sure my 21-month-old daughter, who is a sort of magpie because she likes anything shining and dangling and rattling, would love it, too.

Source, source, source, source and source.

I was checking my Twitter feed (follow me @SeptembreA) when I saw a tweet from Nicole Richie (@NicoleRichie) about a WhoWhatWear (@WhoWhatWear) spread.

Within the spread were these two oh-so-covetable pieces (though every item in the spread was something to love).

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Leather and Metal Studded Hairband, $500USD

Lauren Urstadt fingerless chain gloves, $125USD

J’adore…

-Septembre

Thank goodness someone paid attention in geometry class. Riccardo Tisci sent a range of Roman/Arabic inspired, sky-high, geometrically appealing pieces down the runway for the Givenchy S/10 collection. Seen here is the optical-print open-toe bandage wedge platform. Hard edges are nothing new for the label, but making bold, zig-zags and subtle optical illusions pleasing is no easy task.

As I slowly but surely recover from a violent bout of food poisoning, I am also attempting to take in some wild news that turned my entire world upside down within a matter of seconds.

Mask by Manuel Albarran

It was nearly a year ago that I dropped out of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. I looked around one day and thought to myself “Just what in the hell are you doing, Kyle?” Chicago is a city that sucks a lot of dick, in my opinion. Nasty, disease ridden dick that ejaculates battery acid rather than semen. The school itself was fine but, because I intended to major in fashion design, I was unable to justify living in such a cesspool when studying somewhere like New York City was a legitimate possibility.

When I dropped out and arrived back home, I was almost immediately enveloped by an overwhelming sense of dread and regret. I remember my first night back in Los Angeles, standing by myself in the alley of a lavish little venue known as The Smell and watching a particularly deranged homeless man sort through a pile of human feces that I hope to God was his own. “What could he be looking for?”, I asked myself, hoping that he would find it. I also hoped that I would find what I had just lost as a college drop-out: a sense of self-worth.

I spent up until the other day hoping for that and I am glad to report that I have finally regained it. When I opened my acceptance letter from Parsons: The New School for Design, I immediately vomited. It could have been from excitement and it could have been because of the food poisoning. Who knows? Who cares? What I do know is that I am moving to New York City in less than two months and I am pretty god damned happy about it.

As ecstatic as I am, I’m also greatly unsettled by the fact that a persons general outlook on life can be reversed so easily and quickly. It’s scary and I am going to try my hardest to put it out of my mind. What I need to focus on now is my impending transition into NYC. I’ve only been there once before and I was happy to find that, unlike Chicago, I did not feel like I was in constant danger of being mugged or brutally gang-raped. Based on that alone, it should be a significantly easier transition.

In addition to developing a command of the cities public transportation system, I would also like to improve my wardrobe before I move. I currently have about four outfits that I actually wear, all of which I have been told make me look like a gay extra from an episode of Saved by the Bell.

Mask by Riccardo Tisci for Dazed & Confused

Mask by Hussein Chalayan for Dazed & Confused

I would like to somehow incorporate masks into my upcoming wardrobe, if possible. I am already crippled by a severe case of low self-esteem, so a collection of elaborate masks will allow for me to free myself from the harsh standard of beauty that I assume NYC has. I could even take it one step further towards the real deal and horribly disfigure my  face with a cheese grater or maybe a blow torch. This way I’d have a legitimate, non-faggy excuse and evoke a sense of genuine mystery amongst my classmates.

The collection that Riccardo Tisci sent down the runway for the Givenchy Fall 2009 Couture collection was beyond mere comprehension. It was out of this world, he is a true visionary and innovator of fashion. This collection pulled influences from Morocco, Greek Goddesses, and rocker chic silhouettes. The herem pants were executed to perfection,the beading, studd work, the velvets and the studded head bands were amazingly done. The work Riccardo Tisci did for this collection was absolutely marvelous. Here are some of my favorite looks from the show…

Para quem é fã de moda e também de música, o evento será transmitido online via oi, já que ela promoverá o evento, bem, ele está sendo transmitido agora…

Para quem quiser conferir o site é www.oifashionrocks.com.br, o evento também será transmitido na oi fm, www.oifm.com.br, e também pela Oi TV móvel (http://servicos.novaoi.com.br/oitvmovel/).

Bem…Mariah Carey, Wanessa e Ja Rule, Estelle, Diddy, Stop Play Moon, Daniela Mercury, Grace Jones e Ciara participaram e as grifes Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci – Givenchy, Donatella Versace, Lenny Niemeyer, André Lima, Francisco Costa - Calvin Klein Collection, Lino Villaventura, Alexandre Herchcovitch.

Agora vou…assistir claro…

Modedesignern Martin Margielas mask i Dazed & Confused, oktober 2009.

På uppdrag av det brittiska konst- och modemagasinet Dazed & Confused skapar 13 modedesigner varsin mask på tema monster. Samarbetet “Franken-fashion” är inspirerat av Frankenstein och den brittiska modedesignern Alexander McQueens höstkollektion för 2009 om skräpmode. Martin Margiela, Rodarte, Riccardo Tisci (Givenchy) och Gareth Pugh är några av designerna som medverkar. Att den belgiske modedesignern Margiela skapar en mask känns lite som metakonst då han alltid behållit sin identitet hemlig i media och modesammanhang. Finns det ett dolt budskap bakom masken, månntro?

Givenchy Spring 2010

David Bowie, 1973 – Ziggy Stardust Tour

Riccardo Tisci, eu também amo Bowie e também tenho essa foto salva na minha pastinha.

Givenchy, me presenteia? Beijos.

Fashion Month may be over but I keep going, I’m nearly finished though , just a couple more days. I was actually quite dissappointed by the 4th and 5th, their wasn’t as many entertaining shows as previous days , I have high hopes for the last few days though. Anyway , we begin with Emanuel Ungaro, and the debut show of which Lindsay Lohan was creative director.The critics were secretly wishing for a train wreak , and most say they got one. It wasn’t that bad though and the reccuring heart motif was a highlight in most cases… not sure about the use pasties (not shown below!)though.

Next we have Givenchy, I’ve always been a fan of Riccardo Tisci ( and his love of the Gothic approch!) and although this season was not as ‘out there’ as some past , it was still a deffinite success.

I said they’d be back and Sonia Rykiel (among some other shows!) has proven me right. Step back tights! Hold-ups/stockings/over the knee socks are back with a vengance.

Last but not least – Yves Saint Laurent. Like Givenchy, YSL was not as showey as past seasons but there was an understated glamour to it all.

If you click on the images it will take you to where you can see the whole show.

(images – wwd.com

I knew that appointing Riccardo Tisci to Givenchy was a smart move by LVMH.  He showed promise from the start, and I really enjoyed his Fall 2009 prêt-à-porter and Haute Couture collections.  Well, he just keeps getting better and better.  Tisci’s Spring 2010 clothes were bold, inventive, beautiful.

His range is beyond.  As in the past, he began with the classic black and white contrast and used them to great effect on tuxedo blazers and dresses that were angular up top but draped more softly below the waist.  His perfect tailoring really balances edgy and refined.  He pushes the boundaries but never goes too far as to make his designs unwearable.  Further into the collection, he moved into very dense patterns that covered blouses, blazers, pants and even the shoes.  Very rock and roll.  Finally, he finished with feather-light wrapped tulle and lace babydoll dresses in nude and white shades.

The totality of the collection was just incredible.  Riccardo fuses Arabic, rock, and pop art references to create something totally modern and original.  Givenchy right now is what fashion is all about!  It’s exciting, it’s fun, and it’s creative.

This show always attracts a cool crowd.  It was packed, and the number of fashion and celebrity VIP was staggering.  Just look at all these cameras!  I actually wore Pucci and not Givenchy to the show, but they’re both part of the LVMH family.

Anna Piaggi and Susan

Susan and Amanda Lear

Rihanna; Joana Preiss

Vanessa Traina; Leigh Lezark

I connected with my friend Imran Amed, founder and editor of Business of Fashion.  I last saw him in New York at Oscar de la Renta’s Spring 2010 show.  I also said hello to Vogue editor Lauren Santo Domingo.  She always looks amazing.

Susan and Imran Amed

Lauren Santo Domingo and Susan

Peter Dundas, the designer of Pucci, actually happened to be at the show.  I introduced myself and we thought a photo was in order since I’d selected his label for the occasion…

Peter Dundus and Susan

Yves Carcelle, Chief Executive Officer of Louis Vuitton and President of the Fashion and Leather Goods Group of LVMH, was on hand as well.  I imagine this has been an especially busy week for him.  Below that I am pictured with French fashion journalist Jean Paul Cauvin.

Susan with Yves Carcelle

Jean Paul Cauvin and Susan

And, of course, here I am backstage with the man of the hour, Riccardo Tisci.

Riccardo Tisci and Susan backstage

After the show, I dined at L’Avenue with some friends from San Francisco.  I love this place.

Joel Goodrich, Susan and friends at L'Avenue

From there, it was on to the Ungaro cocktail party at the Plaza Athénée before finishing the night off at Maxim’s.  It’s always a fun scene there, and Riccardo Tisci showed up late night!  He deserved some celebrating after showing another outstanding collection.

runway images via style.com; candid photos by Marie Goujon

]]> http://theoutandabout.wordpress.com/2009/10/06/spring-summer-2010-women-fashion-week-part-1/ Tue, 06 Oct 2009 01:41:24 +0000 theoutandabout http://theoutandabout.wordpress.com/2009/10/06/spring-summer-2010-women-fashion-week-part-1/

Paris still being the headmistress, no doubt! So from the different collections we could see until today in the city of light we must pay attention to those who has delighted all the audience. Never seen prints, never seen shows and the most important an amazing Riccardo Tisci who seems unstoppable in his Givenchy art.
Here the pictures and some of the best videos.

GIVENCHY

The importance of black and white in Tisci’s style is one of the things we can feel at the show, besides he works very good with the psychedelic prints.

VIKTOR & ROLF

The fantasy and the magic were present through V&R work. All those volumes and cuts could transport us to another dimension, I swear god. And what about the magnificient show of Roisin Murphy…

BALENCIAGA

Nicolas Ghesquière has always worked in a different way, always following his original ideas his steps. That’s the reason why he’s always surprising everybody, you will never be bored watching his collection or in his shop at Avenue George V. Always not crowded shows, french elegance and the presence of women in all his garments.

GARETH PUGH

The strenght comes with him and his pure lines which actually allow us to make out his prompt collaboration with Dior homme. Let’s pray god!

I just adore Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy. As one can see from one of his 2009 collections for the maison, he’s not afraid of color when it comes to menswear:

Spring-Summer 2009 in pink

The idea of tailored shorts is most becoming for guys in hot countries, such as Brazil. The choice of pink is really bold and arrived with perfect timing.

The new collection showed fewer colors but brings a lovely new inspiration using white-black-red and hoods:

Printemps-Été 2010

Tailored shorts are still going on strong:

Shorts worn with men's legwear

It is such a relief.

Let us get inspired NOW.

fotos por Riccardo Tisci

eu amo esses sapatos by nina ricci!!!!!!!!!

alias… o q q tá acontecendo com a sombrancelha das pessoas, tá todo mundo virando lara stone…

Pra quem é fã de moda e fã de música, taí um evento que faz uma junção boa entre os dois…

O evento já tem confirmados os estilistas e marcas: Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace, Lenny Niemeyer, André Lima, Calvin Klein, Lino Villaventura, Alexandre Herchcovitch e Givenchy.

E na parte musical Mariah Carey, Pharrel Williams, com seu projeto musical N*E*R*D, Ja Rule e Wanessa Camargo, provavelmente cantando a música ”Fly” e Lulu Santos. No começo do ano foram especuladas as participações de Justin Timberlake, Beyoncé, Rihanna, mas nada foi confirmado, e pelo jeito não vai acontecer mesmo…

Agora é só esperar pelo evento que ocorrerá no dia 24 de outubro, no Jockey Clube Brasileiro, Rio de Janeiro, e as vendas de ingressos só começam a partir do dia 10 desse mês, com um preço na faixa de R$ 700 a R$1200, no site da Oi Fashion Rocks

Hoje é aniversário da rainha do pop. Às vezes me confundo se ela é a rainha do pop ou se ela é o pop!

Comemorando 51 anos. Digamos que a idade, pra ela, não diz nada. Energia é muita, sem falar na vontade de estar sempre bem nas paradas musicais. Lançamentos e mais lançamentos, mas não pra cumprir tabela. Músicas boas de verdade. Uma das últimas é Celebration, que dá pra escutar aqui embaixo ou no Madonna.com.

Além da preocupação extrema com a qualidade de suas músicas, Madonna é super atenta com o seu figurino. Os looks da sua recente turnê – iniciada em 2008 – Sticky and Sweet Tour foram criados por Riccardo Tisci, da Givenchy. Os sapatos da turnê são Stella McCartney e Miu Miu e, ainda, vestidos Yves Saint Laurent.

Então, deixo algumas imagens de looks da Madonna.

Look para Sticky and Sweet Tour by Riccardo Tisci

Madonna em look espetacular inspirado em Maria Antonieta, século 18, para a música Vogue, em 1990

Look da turnê The Girlie Show, iniciada em setembro de 1993

Madonna em look Louis Vuitton que depois apareceu na campanha da marca, como o fashionzzz! mostrou aqui

LOVES THESE!

Tom Kolovos, NBC Chicago Street Team

OK ladies, if you normally have the requisite fashionista aversion to a dress which retails for $38, you may want to reconsider said aversion. Perhaps the economy has transformed you into a recessionista, or you needed something to wear in the 98 degree heat to Lollapalooza.

But the best reason to justify a $38 dress is because it’s actually a great summer buy and transforms into several dresses in one.

The dress is called Le Sac, and you’ll find this versatile piece at American Apparel. It comes in solid colors and a black strap that runs through essentially a halter top shape, but with enough imagination (and the pictured instruction postcard that comes with it), you can create at least five different dresses you would not be embarrassed to wear — the Braided halter, the Architectural mini, the Grecian, the Gathered mini or any of several variations that might look completely at home on a Narciso Rodriguez runway. Really.

Click here to read the rest of this post on NBCChicago.com.

Riccardo Tisci redesigns Givenchy classics for the rest of us starting at $300+. Redux, the name of the new line, will be a twice-yearly collection hitting stores for the first time this October. Start saving those pennies and paying off the amex now…

(My four favorite looks – photos from fashionology)