St. Stephen’s Green

First tip, traveling in Europe’s off season, October-April will save you some $.  I personally like November because the weather wasn’t too bad yet (yes we did have some rainy days) and if you go toward the end of the month, they are decorated for Christmas!  I book my international plane tickets about 3-5 weeks before the trip, plane tickets typically go down closer to the travel date.  We also opted not to book all our hotels before we left.  We wanted to wing it for part of our trip, which did prove to work out well.  We did book our first few nights in Dublin via Priceline before we left.  Since there are only about five 5-star hotels in Dublin, we named our own price on Priceline for a 5-star hotel and ended up with a killer deal.  We stayed at the Conrad Dublin for about $100 off per night on their normal rates.  I highly recommend the hotel, the staff was wonderful (we arrived in Ireland at about 4am, the Conrad let us check in when we arrived for no extra charge!), the rooms were clean and comfortable, and we were walking distance to St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton Street.

We got a late start our first day, we finally woke up around 3pm (Ireland is 5 hours ahead of FL time) and enjoyed a stroll through St. Stephen’s Green…

Which brought us right to Grafton Street which was always quite busy.

Our first official stop?  I couldn’t help but grab a cup of coffee at Starbucks and get my souvenir mug (note how thrilled the hubs is, haha).

Christmas decorations at night on Grafton Street!!!

We ate at the Vat House located in the center of Temple Bar on Anglesea Street.  I must say I have never really craved Irish food until I ate in there in Ireland.  I partly think it is because they don’t have all the MSG, pesticides, hormones, and whatever else that we add here in the States.  It is simple food, done VERY well!  My husband and I still drool over the thought of ALL of the meals we had over there.

We then completed our first evening in Dublin with Irish coffee and a walk along the River Liffey.

I have more tips on travel there in Ireland, but alas I must stop here…I need to go check airline tickets and see if there are any cheap ones coming up!  All this reminiscing is making me want to go back

Inside the church is a magnificent organ dating from 1724.  It is one of the oldest working organs in Ireland.  It is also believed to have been the organ that Handel used whilst he was composing his ‘Messiah’.

The most interesting feature of St Michan’s Church lies beneath the ground in the crypt.  The vaults are accessed by narrow stone stairway.  These stairways are steep and there are no handrails, so unfortunately the tour is not suitable for people with limited mobility. The vault tunnels are lined with limestone and mortar. There are large rooms off the tunnels that contain the coffins of many of Ireland’s historical figures.  These coffins are stacked on top of each other, and over time a number of the coffins have burst open to reveal that the bodies inside have been naturally mummified!

Experts are unsure as to what exactly caused the bodies in these particular vaults to mummify.  Our tour guide explained that it was likely to be a combination of a number of factors:

• high concentration of lime
• dry atmosphere
• high methane levels
• the vaults lie low and are near to the bed of the River Liffey

There are a number of mummies on display including a 400 year-old nun, a reformed thief and ‘The Crusader’ – a giant of a man whose legs had to be broken in order to fit him in to the coffin.  Legend has it, that “shaking the hand of The Crusader” will bring you good fortune and luck. I have done this tour a number of times and only recently finally plucked up the courage to shake his hand.  It was a very macabre experience as The Crusader’s spine and internal organs are partially visible. The hand itself felt wooden and was dry and dusty. I can’t say that I noticed any change in my fortunes, but I am glad that I had the courage to do it!

Unfortunately, I didn’t have my camera with me, so these photos are not my own.

View the rest of the “A Tourist in my Own City” series:

• National Botanic Gardens, Dublin
• Glasnevin Cemetery and Museum, Dublin

It’s times like these when you just want to get away and forget about the current depressing state of the economy for a bit. But the very reason you want to get away is the very thing stopping you…or is it? Whilst a five week all inclusive cruise around the Caribbean may have to be postponed for a bit, there are places closer to home that can provide equally exciting adventures.

Back in the summer of 2008 I was stuck in a rut. I had finished college, was in full time work at a local shop and I was bored. Having recently come back from a coach trip around Europe (my first real experience of travelling) I was suffering from the travel withdrawal symptoms commonly known as ‘Itchy Feet’. I needed to get out there again and get back on the road…but where?

My economic state at the time was similar to what it is now (along with the vast majority of the British public). To get over this little obstacle, I decided on somewhere a little closer to home. Despite having never been there, I have always had a fondness for Ireland. So one Sunday, my best friend and I booked a spontaneous trip to Dublin for the following Tuesday.

River Liffey

After landing in Dublin and checking into our hostel (another money saving alternative and one I highly recommend) we decided to go out and explore what was to be our new home for the next few days. We ventured to the shopping haven known as Grafton Street, saw the River Liffey and wandered around the little streets of the quaint yet cosmopolitan city.

Eventually we found ourselves in the world renowned Temple Bar district and within minutes we realised why the district was so famous. Although it’s true it may be fairly expensive to buy a drink (this is a capital city after all), it’s not just the drink you get. It’s the atmosphere, the sights and of course the craic. After stomaching down half a pint of Guinness (I know we are wimps only drinking a half but considering we didn’t like the black stuff we thought it was a fair try) we went back to our hostel.

As my friend and I had left booking our rooms until the very last minute, our hostel was fully booked for the next few

days. Whilst heaving our backpacks over to the other side of town to another hostel we soon realised this was the rougher side of the city. We encountered what I would describe as an ‘aggressive friendly’ little girl. She was sat on her little pink bicycle outside her house looking innocent enough. As we walked past she started talking to us. However, when Suzanne and I didn’t respond straight away (we were negotiating road signs) she started yelling at us: ‘WHY AREN’T YOU ANSWERING ME!!’ Welcome to the neighbourhood!

Our last night in Dublin began like every other night we had out in town. We went to a few pubs, drank a few drinks and had the craic with a few locals (including ‘Ireland’s Next Top Model’ – a portly fella called Mick). It soon came the time, sadly, to return to our hostel. So with heavy hearts and long faces we grabbed our bags and slowly walked back.

As we neared our hostel we heard laughter and music coming from a nearby building. It wasn’t until we got closer that we could identify the song as ‘Galway Girl’ when we both stopped and stared at each other, agog. Whilst this pleasant shock was registering with us, a guy came out of the pub for a smoke and saw our expressions to which he responded by inviting us in. Thinking it would be rude to refuse, we walked through the door to find a small room with about te

Temple Bar

n people in who clearly all knew each other – awkward? Not in Ireland.

We sat down and got ourselves a drink and were soon chatting away with the locals. I can’t remember now what we were talking about but it was a while ago and a lot of drink was involved on all our parts. What I do remember (and always will) is how I somehow ended up with two postcards, one with a memorial poem on. I’ll be honest, it’s not what normally happens on a night at the pub.

Another memory of that night is when we spotted a sign which read. ‘Under no circumstances are under 21s allowed in this bar’. After Suzanne subtly pointed this out to me we both began to act a little cautiously. Although knowing the amount we had drunk, we probably over exaggerated the cautiousness. The cloak and dagger act was due to the fact we were both under 21 at the time. At some point the shutters of the pub came down and we thought they’d found us out. It was only a little while later (an embarrassingly long while actually) that we realised we were in a lock in.

One of the regulars at this pub was this old guy who was constantly dancing. Now, I don’t just mean to every other song. He danced from the minute we entered the pub to the minute we slipped out the back (for fear of being locked in all night and missing our flight the next day). Having studied dance and been to various dancing establishments, I have seen many dancers in my time but I can honestly say I have never seen anyone’s hips move in quite the same way as this old man. He made Shakira look sluggish. It was unbelievable!

The next day sadly brought our departure back to the UK. Everyone always suffers the post-holiday blues when they have to go home from an amazing holiday but Suzanne and I were borderline depressed.

Getting back into the normal routine of work and the like I was already planning my next trip and working out how long it would be before I could go back to my beloved Ireland. In the event it would be less than eight months until we returned.

Many people will agree when I say that one of the main highlights of travelling is the people you encounter and the memories you gather along the way. The best bit is all these things are free! The beautiful thing about Dublin, one of many, is that although these particular events might not happen to you, a similar adventure packed with memories will. You don’t need to go to the far reaches of the earth and spend a fortune to get a once in a lifetime experience. You can get them for free much closer to home. Similarly you don’t have to stay in a five star luxury resort to have a good time. A cheapy hostel does the job just fine.

We did pretty much everything you’re supposed to do when you’re in Dublin for St. Paddy’s Day: watch the big parade, pay an obligatory (and expensive) visit to the Book of Kells at Trinity College, see Dublin Castle, and (of course) drink to your heart’s content. In a way, I wish I had gone to Dublin on a less festive weekend–there were too many (drunken) tourists crowded the streets and many places were closed due to the holiday. But my friends and I got a lots of sightseeing done and a fair amount of tourism dollars (well, Euros) spent!

Here are my favorite things about my weekend in Dublin:

1) Kilmainham Gaol

Padraig Pearse's words, inscribed by prisoners on a wall in Kilmainham Gaol.

This is one of the most fascinating places I’ve ever been. This 200-year-old prison was the backdrop for some of Ireland’s most important history. It is most remembered as the prison where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising were held and, eventually, executed. Our tour started in the chapel, where Joseph Plunkett married Grace Gifford (who was also imprisoned here in the 1920s) just hours before being executed for his involvement in the Easter Rising. We continued through the dank–but somehow beautiful–hallways of the prison, hearing accounts of overcrowding and daily prison life from our fabulous tour guide.

View of Joseph Plunkett's cell.

Looking through a peephole at a cell in the Victorian Wing.

The Victorian Wing of the gaol, built so that guards could see and hear all prisoners. Grace Gifford's cell is located here (fourth from the right on the bottom, the one with the little white box over it). The acoustics in this wing are incredible, and musicians such as U2 have played here.

The tour ended in the stone-breaker’s yard, where the 1916 executions were carried out. This is where one of the most significant events in Irish history took place, and the weight of those deaths is very present in that space.

A cross marking the place where the Easter Rising leaders were executed by firing squad in May 1916.

An Irish flag flies proudly over a plaque in the stone-breaker's yard, dedicated to the men who made the ultimate sacrifice for independence.

To lighten the mood after visiting such a haunting site, we stopped for lunch at the gaol’s tea room. It’s a perfect opportunity to call your parents (especially the morning after St. Paddy’s) and get their reaction when you say ‘Hi Dad, I’m in an Irish prison…’ Priceless.

Oh, come on. Who said prison food was terrible?

It’s quite far from City Centre, but Kilmainham Gaol is worth your time. I must say that this was my favorite stop of the weekend.

2) Christ Church Cathedral

To be honest with you, this did not appeal to us at first. We planned on spending about ten minutes in the Cathedral to get some photos. We’ve seen so many churches in our past travels that they’re all starting to look the same to me. But this gorgeous Anglican cathedral is exceptional, and you’ll be glad you paid a visit.

Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin.

Did you know that there are bell-ringing competitions all over the world, even in America? Well, Christ Church Cathedral has won plenty of them, and has won the Lindoff Cup five years in a row! That’s not hard to believe after meeting Leslie, the Cathedral’s ringing master.

For some extra Euros, we took a tour of the Cathedral bell-tower and saw just how much work it takes to make those bells sound amazing. We were guided through a locked door and up a winding spiral staircase that led to the Cathedral roof, and then up even more stairs to the chamber where the bells are rung.

View from the Cathedral's roof.

Now, Leslie has been ringing the Cathedral’s bells since he was fourteen, and he really knows what he’s doing! We got to learn a little bit about bell-ringing (the sheet music for it is MIND BOGGLING) before trying it out for ourselves.

Inside the ringing chamber. Totally felt like Quasimodo here!

And let me tell you: those bells are heavy, especially for me and my little noodle-arms. It takes a lot of work to coordinate the bells and play them at the right time. I’m sure people passing the Cathedral while my group was playing the bells were horrified by the mess of notes we played. I have so much respect for what Leslie and his colleagues do!

This isn't my group, but this is what bell-ringing was like!

It’s funny, because a whiskey distillery in Dublin donated money to Christ Church for new bells; Guinness donated to their rival, St. Patrick’s Cathedral. I really picked the wrong day to wear a Guinness T-shirt!

If you’re looking for something different and fun to do in Dublin, this is a perfect option. Tours only take about an hour, and you can say you’ve made Cathedral bells ring!

3) Guinness Storehouse

Of course this is on the list! Just don’t do it first thing in the morning on an empty stomach, like I did.

Warning: This is NOT breakfast. Guinness Storehouse--a must-do in Dublin!

The museum offers a great range of information on the history of Guinness and how the stuff is made. Look for the exhibit on how the barrels for the Guinness were made back in the day–it’s fascinating!

Barrels and barrels and barrels...

Over-18 tickets come with a free pint at the Gravity Bar on the top floor of the Storehouse (those who are younger, or just don’t like Guinness, can get a free soda). The bar offers amazing views of the city. Look out over Dublin while you enjoy a drink, then head down to the gift shop for a T-shirt and some Guinness-flavored chocolate!

4) The James Joyce Centre

James Joyce is one of the greatest writers of the 20th century, and this centre dedicated to his life and work is a must-see for literary people like us!

The Centre has lots of great information and items related to Joyce, including portraits of his family members, translated versions of his books, and a replica of his Trieste apartment.

Beautiful room full of portraits at the James Joyce Centre.

One of the best things we saw at the Centre was the original front door to No. 7 Eccles Street, the home of the Bloom family in Joyce’s Ulysses!

Door to No. 7 Eccles Street.

In addition to the great items in the museum, there are three documentaries about Joyce’s life constantly playing in one of the exhibits. The Centre also sells Joyce’s books and other souvenirs; I picked up a copy of Dubliners before heading out. If only I could read that instead of my readings for class…

Anyway, the James Joyce Centre is a great place for readers and writers to visit, and it’s a beautiful old building with a lot of detail. Definitely worth an hour of your time!

5) The famous Oscar Wilde statue

Dublin’s other most famous writer, Oscar Wilde, has been immortalized in this beautiful sculpture located in Merrion Square Park. It’s fun to pose next to the lounging Wilde!

The man himself, Oscar Wilde.

It was interesting to see this sculpture after seeing the one in London three years ago. The London statue is inscribed with one of my favorite quotes: ‘We are all in the gutter, but some of us are looking at the stars.’ Well said, Mr. Wilde.

View of the sculpture in London, and my friend Marissa in the background! I can't believe this trip was three whole years ago.

The day we saw the Dublin statue, the park was very crowded because there was a carnival going on, so we had to wait a bit to get our picture. But it was so worth the wait!

Wilde’s childhood home is nearby, but we had to skip that because we had to catch our flight. I’ve added it to my bucket list for the next time I’m in Dublin!

Overall, Dublin for St. Paddy’s was crazy and one weekend wasn’t nearly enough time to see everything we wanted to see, but these five places made our trip so memorable!

Here are some more photos I took on the trip!

Dublin Castle.

Pretty little river near Kilmainham Gaol.

Trinity College campus, where the Book of Kells is located.

Really cool float at the St. Paddy's Day parade. I think this was right before I got hit in the face with candy some guy was throwing (another Marcia Brady moment. 'Ow! My nose!').

View of the Liffey and the south side of the city.

I’ve never been so proud to be Irish! Thanks for a great weekend, Dublin!

Of course, you will be familiar with the leprechaun and rainbow icons of Ireland so our journey there was only made complete when we actually did see a rainbow! We walked along the River Liffey flowing through the heart of Dublin and it was so perfectly still (below). And as we watched a team of rowers came through shaking up the picture-perfect river and it never re-settled while we were there. Beautiful in a different way!

I would recommend a weekend here but take some extra euros because it is pricey! If you have handled Irish currency you will also note the reference to the harp, the symbol for Ireland.

The Irish

In Ireland, I saw a rainbow over Lower Abbey Street.

It was white and green and orange and yellow

And blue and red. There was the peaceful white band waving

In the wind: the symbol of a people united by their heritage.

Green filled shop windows with trinkets and keepsakes

And lucky charms; bright eyed children with freckled

Shining faces held the hands of happy moms as their

Orange tresses flapped about their plump faces.

Yellow and blue double decker buses lined roads parallel

To the still mirror of the River Liffey though disrupted

By rowers and shook with ripples of glittering fragments

Of houses and bridge underbellies for three days.

I heard strangers speak heart on sleeve of their survival,

Pride and humility of uprisings and defeats. Even as I walked

The jail cell rows of Kilmainham Gaol once stained in red

Is now the make-up of their fight for identity.

The sky is an accolade of rain and shine to my unblinking eyes.

And as I walk hand in hand down cobbled streets with my English love,

I am certain I can hear the sound of harp strings echoing

From somewhere over that rainbow.

Of course it’s after dark after the pub crawl.

Yesterday started with a walking tour (found free on the internet via a Native Dubliner).  We hit the markets up to find some seriously wonderful clothing.

I want to lay this old and incorrect stigma to rest: The Irish DO NOT Wear drab colors!

Dublin is bursting with color and fabulous fashion.  As a Burner I absolutely love it here.  I should have brought my animal print leggings and tights and I would have fit right in.  Damn that misinformed person that told me (and everyone else that read their article) to tone down the clothes (and shoes) for their next trip to Ireland.  I have no idea where they were visiting on the Isle, but if you are going to Dublin, come ready to party.

Girls wear short skirts (and shorts) over tights of all colors, and patterns.  Boots rule the day here.  There are SOOO many different styles, including western styled cowboy boots…I found this really funny as I’m from Texas.

What also has taken me by surprise is how much American Pop music is played in the shops and restaurants here.

In my hotel they play lots of classics.  It was almost disorienting to come back yesterday afternoon into the hotel lobby and hear Willy Nelson singing.

I’m slowly getting the hang of Dublin.  If you bump into or need to squeeze past someone for goodness sakes DON’T say excuse me, they think you’re being a jerk.  Say ‘sorry’ and they usually say nothing in return but do get out of the way.

Dubliner’s do not make idle chatter.  I learned that fast and painfully.  Unfortunately I talk to strangers, it’s just part of me.  I like people, but sometimes the people don’t like me back.  Here most people don’t see the point of “polite” conversation.  In other words why ask stupid questions, or expostulate the obvious.

Here’s an example of what not to do:

American: “The weather sure is dreary.”

Irish: In their minds “Of course it is you idiot, why point out the obvious? And why are you talking to me?  I’m going to ignore you and pretend I didn’t hear anything.”

Here’s an example of WHAT to do say if you really really need directions or information:

American: “Sorry to bother you.”

Irish: Doesn’t slow down their walking pace, doesn’t look you in the eye.

American: Pick up pace walks with them snags eye contact with native, “Sorry ma’am (sir) but do you know where (such in such) is?”

Irish: In mind “Okay so far they might not be drug addicts…hmm…”

Barely slowing their stride says Outloud “The (such in such) is (however many) streets down (or up).

American: “Thank you very much! Have a great day!”

Irish: In mind “Jesus! They really do say Have a Great Day?!”

I learned from my new found Irish friends that American’s are type-cast in TV shows as always wearing a hat telling people to Have a Great Day.  I laughed a lot after hearing that one, because it’s rather true (sans hat if I’m state-side).

Street 'art'.

Garden of Remembrance

Presbyterian Church found along our walk.

Hot Pants (very popular in Dublin) with American Flag pattern.

S.F. Political Office In Dublin

Night time rambles south side of the Liffey.

A few more things learned: If you have long hair and you are a man you are thought carry and distribute or just plain enjoy the ‘splif’.

Positron has now been asked twice for marijuana…we find this humorous as we do not partake.

Oh yes, had my first two glasses (that’s right glass, not pint) of Guinness last night under the careful eyes of our Irish friends, and it’s true what they say.  The Guinness is much, much better in Ireland.  I had TWO glasses (and that’s a big deal for me).

Samuel Beckett Bridge and the River Liffey in Dublin, Ireland.

Don’t forget to have your input on the theme for the month of April! Poll #2 coming March 23rd!

© The Publishers

Full title: Memories of the Liffey Valley

Creator / Author: Liffey Valley Heritage Group           

Item Type / Page count: Book / 92p

When Published: 1992

Publisher / Place of Publication: Blessington Community Enterprise Group / Blessington, Co. Wicklow

About: This book is a compilation of stories and recollections gathered together by the Liffey Valley Heritage Group during a six-month period in the early 1990s. The major event of the flooding of the valley in 1940 which permanently altered the landscape is recalled throught the memories of some of the people most affected by it.

ID number(s): None

Chapters: A changing landscape — Placenames and history – Working the land – The home – Local industry – Healers and Holy wells –Weddings and wakes – Entertainment — The supernatural – Bibliography – Interviewees — Sponsors.

Extra #1: Contains many photographs and illustrations.

Extra #2: Check OCLC WorldCat.org for this publication in libraries worldwide.

Walking back after a few pints and listening to Irish music in Temple Bar, I managed to hold the camera steady enough to get a picture looking down River Liffey. Dublin was most beautiful at night.

INTRODUCTION

You’ll be thanking your shamrock you dallied in Dublin.

In the wake of a remarkable economic boom, Dublin’s landscape has changed immeasurably over the past decade. These days Dublin ranks among the top tourist destinations in Europe, and this vibrant city hums with a palpable sense that it is creating a new cultural heritage.

The city’s burst of prosperity gave it a new confident sheen, but what remains special is the spirit of the people who ensure that, despite whirlwind changes, Dublin remains one of Europe’s most down-to-earth, friendly and accessible cities.

WHEN TO GO

The months either side of summer and winter are the best times to visit Dublin. Prices increase in summer and many places are shut during winter. If you’re planning a trip around the St. Patrick’s Day festivities remember to reserve, book, and reserve again to escape the chaos of the celebrations.

Things to Do

From the National Museum and its Iron Age ‘bog bodies’, stroll along graceful Georgian terraces around Merrion Square, past former homes of literary luminaries like Yeats, Joyce and Beckett. Nearby is Dublin Castle, which now houses the wooden table on which the Good Friday Agreement was signed. You’ll find plenty of Dubliners welcoming sunny days on the flower-strewn St Stephen’s Green, but don’t miss the near-deserted Iveagh Gardens with ivy-clad statues and fountains. Take the short walk north over the River Liffey up mammoth O’Connell Street, to the bijoux Dublin City Gallery for Francis Bacon’s chaotic recreated studio.

Shopping

Weekends in Temple Bar see markets filling its cobbled squares, where stalls are piled high with farmhouse cheeses. Splash out on your favorite Kevin Sharkey abstract painting or delicate Georgian furniture along Francis Street‘s arts and antique stores. At Powerscourt Centre‘s Loft Market, local young designers sell reworked vintage clothes and delicate silver jewelry, affordable ways to revamp your wardrobe. Edge past buskers on pedestrianized Grafton Street, where the top-hatted doorman greets you at the elegant, 160-year-old Brown Thomas department store.

Nightlife and Entertainment

From the century-old Abbey Theatre to Daniel Libeskind-designed Grand Canal Theatre, Dublin’s theatre scene continues to thrive. Settle down in a wood-paneled booth to catch an impromptu traditional music session with fiddles and pipes, or perch up at the bar where it won’t take long for the gregarious locals to start a conversation. For sports lovers, you can’t beat cheering on the ‘Dubs’ at the mammoth Croke Park stadium at a high-octane hurling match.

Restaurants and Dining

Dublin’s horizons are widening, from Goan fish curries to top sushi. Stylish wine bars dot the Docklands area, serving a crisp white alongside steaming bouillabaisse. Locals favor fresh Dublin Bay oysters or a hearty lamb-and-Guinness pie in leafy suburb Ballsbridge, just south of the center. At the Italian Quartier Bloom on the Liffey’s northern bank, tucked-away trattorias offer homemade pasta with crusty bread.

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This well is situated to within the Kilcullen ‘Valley Park’, right on the edge of the Liffey. When you enter the park from the rear of the local credit union you are greeted by a nice little walled pond with what could have been mistaken for a decent looking standing stone in the center. Adjacent this is the ‘Spout’ which it is said was the local source of fresh water for the inhabitants of the town from its inception. To find the well I had to follow the trail path to the end of the park. Here some work was done a covered sculpture was erected above the source and a plaque can be found on the adjacent wall. Nothing special struck me about the location, but it is still nice to finds these things in unexpected places.

Today was strange, my thoughts in range, I made a choice, life rolled the dice, I worked till six, fate thought to mix, I see things twice, was that the mice? From start to end, the mood is fend, I play the part, of life in art, The walk to work, a chance to change, What fish to dish, my wish to mash. The face you see, is not your own, The friends around, and all the same, The calls you get, and planned to let, You feel alive, is this your vibe? You sound the horn, to show you’re torn, You look with … Read more

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picture from http://www.inlandfisheries.ie

The River Liffey is closed for salmon fishing as fish numbers are not meeting conservation limits, however Inland Fisheries Ireland (IFI) opened the fishery on a catch & release basis for one day to the Dublin Salmon Anglers.

This week Derek Evans in his Irish Times article raised the question of the validity of the fish counter at Islandbridge as an accurate measure of salmon numbers. Should the possibility of opening the river on a catch and release basis be looked at further?

*****

One river where it seems inevitable that C&R will be implemented this year is the Mourne. As with the Liffey, the fish counter on the Mourne at Sion Mills is widely regarded as being unreliable. The Mourne is in nowhere near as bad a state as the Liffey, but conservation limits are not being met.

In a written statement to the Northern Ireland assembly, Minister Carál Ní Chuilín described the continued exploitation of salmon untenable,

“After careful consideration of all the available scientific research and data I have concluded that the continued commercial exploitation of wild Atlantic salmon and killing of salmon caught by rod and line in the DCAL jurisdiction is currently untenable. Authorising such exploitation would be inconsistent with the Departments obligations under the EC Habitats Directive and with NASCO guidelines. This could lead to significant infraction fines being imposed by the EC.

Consequently I am calling on stakeholders to support a range of voluntary conservation measures for 2012 to allow my Department to consult on how we can contribute to the long term sustainability of wild Atlantic salmon stocks. Current legislation does not readily enable the introduction of further restrictions on the taking of salmon in time for the opening of the 2012 fishing season, hence the call for voluntary action by stakeholders.

Departmental officials have written to the Salmon and Inland Fisheries Forum, on which the range of stakeholders is represented, to ask for support for a range of voluntary conservation measures to minimise exploitation of salmon stocks in 2012. Officials have written separately to all DCAL licensed commercial fishermen operating coastal and Lough Neagh fishing engines and have asked for a voluntary cessation of salmon fishing in the DCAL jurisdiction in 2012. Through the Forum the Department has asked for support for those measures and for voluntary catch and release for all recreational anglers in 2012. The implementation of such proposals within the DCAL jurisdiction would be consistent with steps taken by other jurisdictions on the island of Ireland and elsewhere.

It is hoped that stakeholders can find common ground in the interests of recovery of stocks and with the shared aim of a return to sustainability of all salmon fisheries, there will be a good level of support for the proposals. My Department will work with stakeholders to address any concerns and clarifications that they may raise.

With the co-operation of stakeholders the exploitation of wild Atlantic salmon can be minimised in 2012. This offers the Department time to consult on a range of options on the future of both commercial salmon fishing and recreational angling for salmon.”

The real issue on the table is the commercial nets. While there may be other reasons for the decline in salmon numbers such farmed fish spreading disease, everything else possible should be done in the meantime to ensure a healthy stock of wild salmon is maintained. The decision to remove commercial nets would be a big step forward.

As an angler, I think C&R of rod caught salmon in the short-term would be a small price to pay in return for the removal of nets. Hopefully it will not put true anglers off, as they will be needed to walk the river banks and keep an eye on things. Similarly I hope that fishery officers do not get bogged down checking for barbless hooks and permits etc, and can continue to allocate time to look out for offences with more serious consequences like poaching and pollution.

I mention The Mourne simply because I’ve been lucky enough to fish it several times over the last few seasons. Hopefully making the trip up north will be worth it again this year, and for many years to come.

John Haran releasing a Mourne salmon

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Another river I hold dear is the River Laune in Co. Kerry. The number of salmon this river produces is astounding, but the percentage that fall to commercial nets is alarming. In 2010 3,527 salmon were harvested commercially which accounted for 25% of the national harvest. This is in comparison to the 1,035 salmon caught by rod & line.

One thing I have noticed when fishing the Laune is the number of anglers from different countries all enjoying their fishing in a wonderful part of the world. You have to ask what impact it would have on the local community if salmon numbers were to fall to such an extent that it would put these anglers off visiting. Surely it would make sense to err on the side of caution when implementing quotas.

A Laune salmon i had the pleasure of releasing last season

We had to pick the day when there were a lot of protests on. So O’Connell Street was closed to traffic. The protest about the Congo was very colourful and the protesters were all singing. I wasn’t a bit impressed with the pre-budget protest though. There was a spokeswoman on the stage and her language was disgusting. Now I don’t mind swearing but there is a time and a place and on the lead up to Christmas with lots of children around that isn’t the place. She would have got her point across a lot better without the swearing.

It was lovely to see the shops with their window decorations and Arnotts was great with their walking Christmas trees. You can see more photos from our day here.

The image that touched me the most was John with his dog and rabbit. John is homeless and during the Summer he saw a thug throw the rabbit into the River Liffey. He went in and rescued the poor animal. He is a really lovely man and the animals love him. We saw him sit down and both animals jumped onto his lamp and settled down. Well done to John the world would be a nicer place if there were more people like him.