In Rome, it centred mostly on our historical inheritance of violence and the complementary veneration of suffering. Churches, statues and piazzas at every turn engrave the memory and the example of Christian martyrs into the psyche of the people. Stern images of popes through the ages glare down at the Vatican faithful and curious – faces of the men who seeded with profligate inhumanity the Inquisition, the Crusades and centuries later, the Intifada.
In Paris, the martyrs are still everywhere, on plaques and in parks, in street names and museums, but it’s a different brand of self-sacrifice that is remembered here, of civil resistance to political and ideological domination. A park around the corner from where I am staying commemorates the lives of the Alexandres Dumas and the end of slavery – and taught me that the famous authors of The Three Musketeers and La Dame aux Camélias were descended from a Haitian slave…. Of course, counterbalancing this are the mammoth monuments to domination and subjugation, preserved by thousands of camera clicks per day and proudly transported around the globe.
On the Isola Martana, the ruins of the churches of San Valentino and San Stefano wrap around those of the tower where the Santa Cristina and twelve other young girls were incarcerated, and possibly the Eastgothic queen Amalasunta as well. On this same island, the remains of Mary Magdalene are said to have been sequestered for a time, to save them from the ravages of… one wave of barbarity or another – Saracens…Visigoths? – sweeping through their original resting place in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in the south of France.
The prayers and ceremony that we did on the island, at this site, were for the end of violence and the glorification of suffering, for the Feminine aspect of divinity to be able to take her place beside the divine Masculine so that the energies of their union – the Sacred Marriage: the non-duality, harmony and awareness of Oneness that we call Love or Peace – might spread as our human and planetary destiny throughout the Earth.
Divine Marriage. Twin flames. Soul mates. My dear sister Catherine and so much of the spiritual community believe in these possibilities as concrete, inevitable and imminent. I remember the feeling in my body – the absolute certainty that there was Someone out there for me…. When, I wondered, had I relinquished this?
Were there vestiges in me of that awkward sense of embarrassment at actually believing in Love…those same sensations that I consciously provoke in people when I ask them to read The Song of Solomon – The Song of Songs? That exercise where I show people that they really have not given up on Love – and that it’s a wonderful thing? Or, somewhere inside me did I really believe the archbishop and all the others who told me throughout the years that people like me – visionary, perhaps, and eccentric at the very least – were meant for a solitary life? Had I hidden the belief in a soul partner away for safe-keeping, so far inside me that I’d forgotten where I put it?
What I was conscious of was the deep certainty that we are complete as we are, and that looking for another person to fulfill one’s needs is a set-up for disappointment. We are all of us male and female in energy – and true freedom, it seems to me, is achieved in having free access to both aspects of ourselves , when we choose. When we polarise ourselves into just one half our beings, we alienate ourselves from a sense of wholeness and accentuate duality and dissonance. What I see in long-term traditional polarized relationships is that the partners tend to bounce back and forth in phases between masculine and feminine roles and qualities. Not that there’s anything wrong with that – one studies, the other works; one stays home with the kids, the other works; one makes the meals, the other buys the food – a simple division of labour, one would think.
Our values and our perceptions of the reasons for living have changed, though. How many people before the 60s really thought about having a Mission in life? The goal of self-realisation has spread from the monasteries, ashrams and convents and into to the inner city, off-grid and even the suburbs! We’re no longer as complacent about giving up who we (believe we) are in order to fit a social role; this looks to me as if it’s wreaking havoc in all strata of society – again, not a bad thing..!
Self-sufficiency sounds like freedom to many of us at this point…but I wonder whether it isn’t a bit like feminism became – do we really want to have to be strong, independent, self-sufficient…alone?
I recall what comes out of my mouth so often these days,” When you feel you have just two choices, don’t choose!” Having learned that “You can’t have it all”, we’re being tempted back into dualism at every turn, and choices like this tend to be a clear indication of the basic dualities that we’ve inherited and assimilated. Applied to relationship and love:
Alone = free + irresponsible          In relationship= trapped + responsible
Does this sum it up?

But where’s the place of Love in all this? I realise that I’ve been thinking dualistically: either we balance our own internal male and female energies and become whole, complete and self-sufficient, or we polarise ourselves and find a partner upon whom we are dependent. What if, between these two extremes, we can choose from an infinite Pantone display of tints and hues  – we can have it all?
The image of a fractal arises, and I am dancing, tiptoed and swirling, along the edge of the immensely complex and heart-splittingly beautiful form. I see my left side toward the inside of the fractal, toward interconnection and manifestation, and the right side of my body facing the outside of this image of existence, with the choice of flying off into other dimensions of being.* I feel myself embracing All….
I see each human as a scale of a fractal – a microcosm of ever greater macrocosms – and it occurs to me that the Sacred Marriage within us must be replicated in ever widening ripples outward as well….
And I breathe a delicious sigh of relief and release….
Blessings and Love,
Dawn

*http://www.butterflyeffect.ca

 There are so many relics mounted onto the walls around the cloister.

The prudent–and much less expensive–thing to do would have been to choose accommodations in Mestre, instead of staying on the island itself. I, on the other hand, may have forgone intelligence–and expense–by opting to experience Venice after dark. For me, it was worth the extra euros, since I didn’t fancy trekking solo back and forth between the two areas at night.

Rio dell’Albero canal that ran past my hotel window in Venice

It’s difficult to take an unflattering photo of Venezia. The waterways are lovely shades of blue-green, and the buildings exude so much character. Even when I took over- or underexposed shots with my SLR, the resulting images still had a certain charm. I wanted to record with my camera exactly what my retinas were ingesting, but the sun, shadows, and incessant sparkling of the canals, meant that my eyes were the far more superior instrument for capturing memories in this city.

I had no real plan, and just spent my time stumbling across a few “must-sees,” while traversing over numerous bridges, and squeezing through narrow lanes. The most obvious spot to visit is Piazza San Marco where the Basilica di San Marco and its 99-metre tall Campanile stand. Even though I wasn’t aiming to hit up the square when I ran into it, I found it hard to walk away from once I was there. This area is a major attraction that has a well-established presence both during the day, and at night. As I walked past restaurants lining the Procuratie Nuove, live music from various orchestras filled my ears. I suddenly wished that I wasn’t travelling alone…

Narrow lane leading up to Hotel Flore in San Marco

Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco with its accompanying Campanile. At first, I thought that I was imagining it, but the bell tower is actually leaning. As you can see, there is a barrier around it, as they are currently working on keeping it from sinking any further on the one side

Series of shots of the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco in Siena, zooming in closer to the cupolas

Two of five recessed marble arches with clustered pillars on the facade of the Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco. I just thought the colours and designs in the stone looked gorgeous! (click to enlarge)

Piazza San Marco at night (click to enlarge)

Basilica Cattedrale Patriarcale di San Marco at night, taken from Piazzetta San Marco

The St. Mark’s bell tower was not the only leaning structure in the city, however. As I was ambling around Campo Sant Angelo, I noticed another tall tower that seemed to be sloping to one side. It took a text message to a friend to confirm my suspicions that Campanile di Santo Stefano was indeed on a slant. Wonky buildings didn’t stop there, though. More meanderings led me to another tilted tower made of Istrian stone, belonging to San Pietro di Castello. Eat your heart out, Pisa–you’ve got some competition!

The (leaning) belfry of San Stefano

A more subtle tilt from the bell tower of San Pietro di Castello

Getting back on track with main attractions, I headed in the direction of Ponte Accademia. This wooden bridge designed by Eugenio Miozzi was built in 1933 to replace a deteriorating steel one by Alfred Neville. It was hoped that a stone bridge would then replace Miozzi’s temporary one, but a competition held in 1985 failed to present a superior design. In the end, the wooden bridge was torn down and replaced with an exact replica–except this time with a metal frame support.

Ponte Accademia rebuilt with its reinforced metal frame in 1985

View from Ponte Accademia of the Canal Grande with Dorsoduro on the left, and San Marco on the right (click to enlarge)

View from Ponte Accademia of the Canal Grande with San Marco on the left, and Dorsoduro on the right. The two cupolas of the Santa Maria della Salute can be seen on the far right (click to enlarge)

As indicated in part by the number of sloping bell towers, Venice has a good number of churches and basilicas. I hadn’t realised quite how many there were until I found a website later on that broke down the numerous listings by each borough. There were also some architectural design elements in the city that I had not yet seen in other parts of the country. My Googling post-trip informed me about a colour referred to as “Venetian red”, which is a beautiful darker and richer shade than the standard one.

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio from different two angles (click to enlarge)

San Gregorio Church in Dorsoduro

Chiesa di San Moise in San Marco

Chiesa di San Vidal in San Marco–notice anything missing?

Closeup of Chiesa di San Vidal in San Marco. Rightmost statue on the facade lost a couple of appendages…

Two different angles of Chiesa di San Geremia taken while riding a vaporetto (click to enlarge)

Examples of Venetian chimneys and window frames (click to enlarge)
Example of Venetian reds at various stages

During my visit to the city, I happened to be present for the 54th Biennale contemporary art festival. It takes place once every two years, from around June to November, the next one scheduled for 2013. Even without the festival, there was art to take in everywhere, from a fibreglass sculpture of a boy holding a dangling frog, to antiquated ships and sleek gondolas, to the endless exhibitions prominently displayed. Art lover or not, there was definitely a multitude of pieces around for people of all tastes to appreciate.

“Boy with Frog” by Charles Ray. A very serious security guard made sure that no one stepped within the faint, red box surrounding it. Many tourists got loudly scolded…

Gondolas just aren’t made for one…

Unidentified art work in San Marco. I quite liked the reflection in the inner, golden sphere (click to enlarge)

‘Post-vs.-Proto-Renaissance’ by Oksana Mas. This mosaic is 134 metres wide, 92 metres high, and made up of 3,640,000 hand-painted, wooden eggs

Future Pass exhibition in Abbazia di Gregorio in Dorsoduro. Top: “Eggs” by Zhao Guanghui. Middle: “Migrating Era” stainless steel installation by Chen Zhiguang. Bottom: “Eye Fairy” by Chen Fei & Luo Hui

By day or by night, wherever you are in this city, it is truly the most romantic place I have ever visited. The bridges, the canals, the gondolas, the architecture, the candlelit tables for two, the way the sun rises and falls to reveal its secret allure: everything combines to ensure that Venice lives up to its reputation as the “City of Love.”

View from San Marco pier looking out on the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

View from San Marco pier looking out on the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute at night

Typical streets, bridges, and canals running through Venice

View across the Canal Grande at the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute during sunset

So in my short sojourn (which I truly believe is all you need in Venice – a few days, mainly because it is SO expensive) my list of must dos are as follows: A trip to The Peggy Guggenheim Collection on the Grand Canal.  Featuring a small collection, the artwork on display included notable works by Dali, Magritte, Brancusi and Pollock.  My favourite was L’Empire des lumières by René Magritte. At the back of the museum in the corner of the garden is where Peggy Guggenheim’s ashes are buried, next to the place where she buried her beloved dogs.  The plaque reads ‘here lie my beloved babies’ with the names of 14 dogs.

Another must do is a visit to The Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, a church in Venice.  Italian churches and cathedrals are exquisitely beautiful, but The Church of Frari was breathtaking. The interior architecture and artistry is positively overwhelming with items like the Bellini alterpiece.  To add to this experience, we serendipitously had coincided our visit with a concert rehearsal where a choir sang music of Monteverdi by his tomb echoing majestically around this splendiferous building.

Vanessa on Campo San Stefano (near our hotel)

A gondola ride through the canals of Venice just has to be done.   Costing generally 15 Euros per person for a standard 30 minute tour was what we opted for.  Our lovely Mr. Gondola Man serenaded us (randomly in Spanish)  which was a sweet touch.  We ploughed through the ‘boatorway’ (grand canal) and then he took us down the smaller intricate canals, underneath lots hanging laundry as we smoothed past Venetian apartments.  Finally, to punctuate the evening, a trip to Harry’s Bar for one their infamous Bellinis is something to look forward to.  The original anchor bar of the Cipriani brand which was a favourite of Ernest Hemingway, was opened by Giuseppe Cipriani (who created the white peach cocktail) in 1931. One of these delectable and moreish cocktails will set you back 15 Euros – so it works to pop in for your apertif but not so much if you’re looking to go out for a few. This quaint little bar and restaurant is fantastic for people watching – it clientele’s pockets are bursting at the seams with cash. A few botoxed and plastic faces and every accessory is Prada, Chanel, Burberry etc.  Everyone speaking loudly so as to show off who they are (or supposed to be). It’s just brilliant.

View from Rialto Bridge, Venice

So yes, I highly recommend a trip to Venice.  Be prepared for lots of walking and everything really is a must see, the above are just my highlights. Rialto market I thought would be more an arts and wares market but it’s actually all fruit and veg and a huge fish market, which as a staunch vegetarian found me moving quite quickly on. The Doge’s Palace, Basilica San Marco and The Campinile  are all brilliant (although there is no option to climb the Belltower/Campinile, so you do just hop in a lift!).  Be prepared to spend a fortune though, for every sight you part with more and more money.  A coffee in the oldest café in Italy ‘Café Florian’ which opened in 1720 will set you back 10 Euros.  A lovely coffee but for around a tenner, I think a photograph of the place would have been fine!

Great company, great city, great food, great prosecco.  V .X.

I recently won a £500 scholarship to go to Venice to visit the Mariano Fortuny Gallery and see the beautiful architecture. I spent 4 nights in a lovely bed and breakfast close to San Stefano and visited a few churches and galleries and spent the rest of the time enjoyed the lovely scenery and stunning buildings and lagoons.

I watched a documentry set in Venice called ‘Ugly Beauty’ which featured art critic Waldemar Januszczak arguing that beauty is still to be found in modern art. He chose to set the programme in Venice because he also finds the ghostly lagoons intruiging and magical. He described the lagoons as being ‘a gorgeous hazy atmosphere of nothingness’. He also loved the beautiful texture, colour and depth of the crumbly buildings and bridges.

Basilica of St. Francis

On the way down from the higher end of town where we start the day to the big Basilica of San Francesco, we stopped by the small, old church of San Stefano whose bells are said to have rung miraculously by themselves at the moment St. Francis died. In itself, the church is a testament to the simple style of the age, created without an architect, just the stonemasons putting together a basic design that would serve its purpose: a house for the church.

The Basilica San Francesco is massive, three stories from the crypt to the lower basilica to the upper, with two huge piazzas, one off of the upper and lower basilicas respectively. It was at this site that Pope John Paul II called his World Day of Prayer for Peace in 1986 and again in 2003, gathering leaders of every major Christian communion and of virtually every religion on the planet, from the Dalai Lama to First Nations peoples from the Pacific Northwest.

First World Day of Prayer for Peace, 1986

It is said that Francis was the first to use a presepe, a nativity scene or crèche, in commemoration of Christmas, and Italian churches go all out, especially in Assisi. An entire stable is converted for a life-size display near the Roman Amphitheatre, and the Piazza San Francesco also has a life-size display. Within every church we stopped at were scenes with sometimes hundreds of figures, rolling hills, light and water effects, sometimes music. In the Benedictine Abbey church of San Pietro, the lighting and sound effects were timed to give a full rotation of the day and night, with corresponding village sounds, birds, etc.

Abbey Church of San Pietro, Assisi, Built 970 AD

Sveti Stefan, Montenegro

The little island of Sveti Stefan off the coast of Montenegro is covered by the Ottoman-era houses of a former fisher village. Since the fifties it has been turned into an exclusive tourist resort.

Sveti Stefan, Montenegro

On the Adriatic coast of Montenegro, there is a small island connected to the mainland by a narrow artificial isthmus. Sveti Stefan, also known as San Stefano, is an Ottoman-era fisher village which was later turned into a luxury tourist resort for the rich and celebrities. Lately it has been closed for renovations.