Saturation is one of my favorite things to play with in regards to photo editing, either with desaturation down to one outstanding color, or with super-saturation up to hypercolor. Either one can totally change the feeling of a photo.

I remember when I was just starting off taking pictures, for a while I sort of whined and complained ‘cus I thought I had nothing to photograph. My sister was the one who told me at some point to just take pictures of anything; that I don’t need models or sets or anything. So one day I sat out in my gallery and really started looking around. I noticed a lot of things for the first time, stuff that collectively I had always considered beautiful but when taking in their individual components I noticed their individual differences and what made each of them uniquely attractive.

Why on earth am I posting this now? Well it’s not because I have nothing better to post. I was actually watching Love Actually last night- I’m serious- and it’s one of those movies that I can watch at absolutely anytime, no matter my mood, and end up feeling all warm and fuzzy inside. I especially love the scene in the end where everyone is meeting at the airport and hugging and kissing and smiling J

Well anyway it was good to see that this world can really be wonderful. There’s a girl by the name of Hanna Lendor, who’s mother has been pleading for months to help them raise $1,000,000 for a liver transplant that can save her life. If a few people donate a little of what they have it can really add up. If you care to you can put money in any branch of Royal Bank of Trinidad & Tobago (RBTT) on the account number: 8917113188.

So once again on a happier note, it’s good whne you can to take the time out of your day to capture beautiful moments. It doesn’t have to be with a camera, simply write it down. You’ll look back at it later and get the same warm feelings all over again. Try never to forget the simple things that make this world wonderful, because when it doesn’t seem so great , it’s those moments that help you smile.

On the other hand it might help to take note of some of the really depressing stuff life throws at some people as well. It humbles you when you look back at it and helps you to remember to have compassion, which is in essence what will make the world a better place right?

And on an even happier note- for me at least- its 2 weeks till Christmas!! Ha I looked up as soon as I typed that and trust me my house at this moment absolutely does not reflect that.

That also means “The Wedding” is closer as well. Yipee/Yikes?!?

The centrepieces started arriving and the bows to decorate the church as well as the hall and they’re absolutely gorgeous! I hope and pray that come that day all goes perfect. I can’t wait to get married!- okay , scratch that I can, for like five or six more years; I’m nineteen. Not so much for the wedding but for- here comes hopeless romantic me- looking down the isle and seeing someone you love and trust so completely that its 100% scary because it’s 100% fact that that one person can absolutely destroy you, and even knowing that, still walk down that isle to that person because you don’t care.

To all my commitment-phobe friends out there- you know yourselves- I know this is absolutely not helping you. But fear not, I shall save more of my gushy, lovey-dovey sappy romantic vibes for a later post; probably the wedding one, who knows.

For the time however just enjoy these photos from around my home and try your best to capture (in anyway you can) any and every moment of ‘wonderfulness’ you see!!!

I played around with my colours a bit in some of these pictures. It’s fun doing something you love to do that makes you happy! Try it. No matter what it is (scratch that- don’t quote me on that…)

And subscribe…

Remember to click to enlarge…

And most importantly Smile !!!!

Khai

pump house & old wheels, originally uploaded by photographerpainterprintmaker.

I wracked my brain trying to decide what to do for this challenge. I decided to use technology to mess with my image. Also, my image is of old technology, and taken with my old point and shoot. It is the pump house located at our family vacation property. I think I really could have pushed the envelope a lot more on this photo, and I may post a further edited one later. I used The Gimp. It is a wonderful FREE program that is just as good as the mega expensive Photoshop program, and even better in my eyes since I don’t have to shell out any cash for it. If you can’t afford Photoshop check out the gimp.

Northeaster Storm or the Nor’ Easter.

What a mess and this is our personal experience.  It always seems like the worst things happen when you are asleep.

I shot these very unprofessional video clips to chronicle specifically for this blog.  Then life got in the way and I forgot.  Till we got hit with another storm!  And, another flood.  Not the same kind of storm but unrelenting rains on an already saturated ground.

We are in a low area.   We can do high tides on their own and we can handle ground saturation in a stand-alone situation.   When we get both at the same time, forget it, it’s all over and the basement will flood. 

This is a four-part video show.

Part One is of the heavy rains and standing water.

++++++++

Part Two is of the 4 inches of water that arrived in the basement and a clip of the high water from the river covering the road into our neighborhood, making it impassible.

This site is great, saved me a ton of time doing calculations and tests myself. Basically, they’ve taken nearly every lens ever made for Nikon or Canon digital cameras and run them through rigorous optical lab testing, and presented the results in a 3-page brief.

http://www.photozone.de/canon-eos

Knowing the sweet spot for your lenses with regards to sharpness, contrast and saturation can make or break your images, especially in the commercial setting, for portraiture, and other exacting imagery. From reviewing all the glass I currently employ, my suspicions were generally confirmed.

I highly suggest going to the site and browsing through all their great information, but if you don’t, the short story is that if you want to get the most out of your glass, get up to at least f/4. Stopping down to f/8 lets your lenses truly sing.

clematis Adj0156, originally uploaded by photographerpainterprintmaker.

Adjusted in ViewNX, a program that came with my Nikon D90

KVR Developer Challenge 2009

Yeah, right – we did it: “With over twice as many points as the second placed entry, FerricTDS by bootsie, a Windows VST effect Tape Dynamics Simulator plug-in is the clear favourite in this years Challenge. Bootsie wins 30% of the prize fund as the top Windows entry!”

Many, many thanks for your support during the challenge!

I have learnt a lot about photography lately and I want post some of the tips I have picked up.

London Calling

CAMERA
I got a new “megazoom” digital camera 3 weeks ago and I have already taken 2599 photos. It is the Sony DSC-H20 with 10 megapixels and 10x zoom. Most of my photos on my DeviantArt gallery were taken with it. I am able to get much better focus and zoom than with my previous cheap camera, which I had from the end of 2007.

My Sony DSC-H20

I took a lot of bad and blurry pictures in order achieve a few perfect shots. I figured out how to use a tripod and how my camera works, so that’s increased my success rate. I also like to leave my camera on Rapid shot mode, to take a few quick shots of the action and then keep the ones that aren’t blurred.

PHOTOSHOP
For learning the basics of layers and partial color (selective black & white), these easy tutorials will get you started in Photoshop.
Layers: [link]
Partial Color: [link]

Partial color applied to a bumblebee in my garden

PICASA
Picasa is the best free photo editing program I know of. Especially because you can easily save and undo changes. You only need to click Save (right click save, or the little disk save button), if you want to update the original file so you can upload it or copy it somewhere.
For DeviantArt, the best I think is to select the files you want and go File > Export. Leave it as Automatic quality and set the width in pixels. I usually go for 800, 900 or 1024, which makes them quick to upload to DA and 900px fills the screen well in full view.
Of course, export makes a copy of the photo you are working with and automatically applies the effects you were using, while still leaving the first photo edited but “unsaved”.

Download Picasa here [link]
Read tutorials for it here [link]

Applying sepia and warmth

This is what I have learnt about the basic Picasa effects.

-Is the photo taken in cloudy weather or does it look too blue or do people look too pale?
Add a some warmth with the slider, as much as you need but don’t overdo it unless you want an old look (combine with sepia and film grain then)

-Do the colours still look washed out or do you need them to look more vibrant?
Set the saturation up a tiny bit (less than the default, but slightly right of the middle line)

-Then add fill light to brighten dark photos (but remember to increase darks a bit as well). Or add darkness to bright photos (but add a bit of light to balance it out).

If the lighting is good but you want to improve the contrast (this works for almost all photos), put the fill light up by say 10% and put the darkness up by 10% too. Or 5% and 5%, etc.

The order of Warmth -> Saturation -> Brightness/Darkness was recommended to me and it works well. You can leave out some of those steps if they make the photo look fake and overdone. If you adjust brightness and darkness at the same time, the order of those two doesn’t matter. Highlights isn’t always useful, but play around with it to get a feel.

There Be Dragons III

I would appreciate feedback if you found this useful.

Michael Currin
theSoftCollision

Pada photosop terdapat fungsi “adjustment Layer” yang berkaitan dengan Hue/Saturation sehingga kita dapat menggeser semua warna menjadi warna lain dalam color space HSL/Hue, Saturation & Lightness (reference : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSL_and_HSV ) hanya dengan mengubah nilai Hue warna tersebut.

——————————————————————————————

dibawah ini adalah ilustrasi gambar color space untuk HSL :

Hue  : menunjukkan sudut dari lingkaran warna primer yang dikenal oleh format HSL .

warna primer dari color space HSL antara lain : Merah, Kuning, Hijau, Cyan, Biru dan Magenta.

Saturation : menunjukkan jari-jari dari lingkaran warna yang menunjukkan level warna abu-abu terhadap warna

Lightness : menunjukkan tingkat cahaya pada warna mulai dari hitam menuju putih.

contoh :  untuk menunjukkan warna merah

Hue = 0 (derajat)

Sat = 1.0

Lightness = 0.5

——————————————————————————————————————————————————

Untuk melakukan fungsi adjustment layer pada Hue/saturation yang terdapat pada photosop, kita harus mengetahui posisi (derajat pada lingkaran warna hue di HSL) dari masing-masing warna primer.  dibawah ini adalah batas-batas warna primer dengan tetangganya (nilai hue) :

Red :   outer : 315° – 45° /   inner : 345° – 15°
Yellow :   outer : 15° – 105° /   inner : 45° – 75°
Green :   outer : 75° – 165° /   inner : 105° – 135°
Cyan :   outer : 135° – 261° /   inner : 165° – 201°
Blue :   outer : 195° – 285° /   inner : 225° – 255°
Magenta :   outer : 225° – 345° /   inner : 285° – 315°

untuk melakukan editing Hue pada red channel pada sebuah image kita harus mengacu pada nilai hue 315° – 45° /   345° – 15°. kita dapat menggeser warna tersebut menjadi warna lain sesuka kita. misalkan warna merah pada image akan kita geser 180°.

yang perlu dilakukan adalah melakukan iterasi setiap pixel pada image dan menambahkan nilai hue-nya untuk pixel-pixel yang memenuhi kriteria nilai hue antara 315 – 45.

——————————————————————————————————————————————————

C# secara default hanya mengenali format warna RGB dengan extention A (alpha) dengan class name Color (di namespace system.drawing).

untuk melakukan pengolahan citra pada format HSL    class color hanya memiliki fungsi :

getHue() = mengembalikan  nilai float hue dari warna tersebut (nilai output : 0 – 359 ).

getSaturation() = mengembalikan  nilai float saturation dari warna (nilai output : 0.0 – 1.0 ).

getBrightness() = mengembalikan  nilai float brightness/lightness dari warna (nilai output : 0.0 – 1.0 ).

namun tidak memiliki fungsi untuk melakukan perubahan nilai HSL.

terima kasih pada om google yang telah menemukan konversi & fungsi untuk mengubah warna RGB – HS http://www.bobpowell.net/RGBHSB.htm

dibawah ini adalah kode untuk menambahkan 180 nilai hue pada  red channel.

                Color c;
                Color newc;
                float h, s, l;
                add += 30;
                Bitmap newimage = (Bitmap) image.Clone();

                for (int i = 0; i < image.Width; i++)
                {
                    for (int j = 0; j < image.Height; j++)
                    {
                        c = image.GetPixel(i, j);
                        h = c.GetHue();
                        s = c.GetSaturation();
                        l = c.GetBrightness();
                        // filter red channel 315 - 360 / 0 - 45
                        if ((h > 315) && (h < 360) || (h >= 0) && (h < 45))
                        {
                            h += add;
                            if (h > 360) h -= 360;

                        }
                        h = h / 360;
                        newc = RGBHSL.SetHue(c, h);

                        newimage.SetPixel(i, j, newc);

                    }
                }

Alberto Korda took the famous image of Che Guevara that adorns many a young Marxist t-shirt, but ultimately the photograph became a design.  One way to get this effect (albeit a rough version of it) is to follow these steps:

1. Take a very basic headshot, preferably one with a white background.

2. Use a white paintbrush to eliminate the background if there is one.

3. Desaturate  the photo to make it black and white.  (See the “Your Basic Black & White) post in this blog for tips on how to desaturate/remove the color.)

4. From there, click Image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast, then slide the Contrast bar all the way to the right.

5. Accept the new levels.

6. Repeat this process until your image is black and white and Che-like.

Here is a quick color tip that I learned as a professional printer & photo retoucher but use regularly now in my own photography to “boost” color without turning up the saturation. This gives me a beautiful, deep, rich color without touching the saturation slider at all.

Click in for more…

Why not just increase the saturation you ask? It is a perfectly fine method and I do often increase the saturation a little bit but it’s easy to go overboard and the drawbacks of going overboard are far worse than having an image with a little less saturation. For one, too much saturation can cause one or multiple color channels to become “blown out” where the color peaks at 255 and loss of detail occurs. This alone can cause unwanted color phenomenon such as color shifting in highlights in skin tones or color halos in whites. Too much saturation with the saturation sliders can also result in unrealistic colors and skin tones which are hard to correct later.

This method also results in a more RICH looking color with good color density and details. This is what I look for in most of my work. (With some exclusions.)

I’m working with a landscape image here rather than a person just to help demonstrate the difference between adding saturation and adding DENSITY.

Our base image. A bit bland still...

Our base image is a beautiful shot off the side of the road in the Painted Desert, part of the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona. But I sure do remember more color to the sediment layers, even the pavement was a rich amber-like color. By adding Saturation only, this image gets more color but it’s really still pretty bland. I’m not feeling it yet.

With 45% saturation, we get color but we get banding and lost detail too.

Instead, duplicate the background layer and then add a Curves Adjustment Layer above the Background Copy layer. Drag the curve down some as shown, as it is this should slightly darken the image. Now change the blending mode of the Curves Adjustment Layer to Overlay. (Soft Light also works nicely but with a little bit less zing.) We duplicated the background layer first so that we can merge the Curves layer to the Background Copy layer for the next step. But we may want to mask something out of our new layer later. (You could use snapshots instead but I prefer working with layers so I can save the original image with the edits on layers.)

Now that we’ve added the Curves Adjustment Layer, go ahead and merge that down with the Background Copy layer. Clearly the colors are starting to come out better, but we’ve lost a bit of the shadows and possibly a bit of the highlights as well. To bring those back, we can either selectively mask that back in, paint with history or use a favorite tool of mine known as the Shadow/Highlight tool. (Under Image > Adjustments > Shadow/Highlight…)

In this case, I used the basic settings with 70% Shadows, 20% Highlights. This brought back the detail in the shadows to the point it was when I started and just about all of the detail in the clouds. Now we have a DEEP blue sky and RICH color without touching the saturation at all! And it doesn’t scream “I cranked the saturation to 110%” either.

Of course if you need to, you can use layer masks or other tricks and tools to reveal areas that are too deep and rich or too contrasty as necessary. Or if you are still begging for more, you could even add touch of saturation to the final image if you need or want more color.

Beautiful DEEP RICH Color!

And here is the video tutorial:
Don’t forget to click the HD button and go Full Screen for the best quality.

So I had another computer problem this summer which led to having to replace my entire hard drive. And in doing so I lost photo-shop and my computer and haven’t had the time to put it back on. So have been using Picasa to edit my photos, which as only given my the opportunity to do simple edits. However, I have been having a lot of fun adding a large of amount of saturation to pictures that I have taken with a lot of color. Here are a few.

 
Victoire de la politique sur la Nature :

Des chercheurs chinois ont derniérement découvert que le terrible tremblement de terre du Sichuan en mai 2008 était sans doute dû à la construction d’un barrage sur une ligne de faille et donc au cisaillement accéléré par le poids de la retenue d’eau.

Ainsi, après nous avoir enfin pu réussir à nous plaindre de nos « dirigeants » quand la météo du week-end était pourrie (il y a 15 ans c’était encore simplement « pas de chance »), nous allions enfin pouvoir les accuser à chaque tremblement de terre :  l’Homme avait enfin totalement politisé les caprices  de la Nature : victoire …. ou danger mortel ?

La façon dont les choses se déroulent concernant la Grippe A H1N1 me laisse à craindre que le danger ne l’emporte…

Don Quichotte en jupon

En effet alors que, pour une fois, nos élus avaient pris au sérieux cette épidémie en mobilisant, en anticipant, en commandant suffisamment de doses de vaccin, nous n’avons pas pu nous empêcher de considérer que cette Grippe était encore une tentative de cette satanée et réactionnaire nature de prendre le dessus et que nous devions absolument politiser le dossier et trouver le moyen de repousser toute tentative de responsabilisation individuelle pour transférer sur « ceux qui décident » le poids de la « faute ».

Et le grand jeu du « celui qui dit qu’y est » a alors commencé : faire passer une Ministre somme toute courageuse pour un Don Quichotte en jupon, jeter la suspicion sur le vaccin, jouer la carte du conflit d’intérêt économique, lancer dans la bagarre les experts de tous bords et les didacticiens de tous horizons.

Nous n’avons même plus osé faire passer notre stade d’alerte du 5A (« transmission interhumaine d’un virus grippal à l’étranger dans au moins deux pays non limitrophes d’un même continent ») au 5B (idem mais en France).

Retard coupable

Et ce soir en commençant à observer les commentateurs reprocher la saturation des Centres de Vaccination qu’ils avaient eux même contribué à vider quelques semaines auparavant faisant ainsi perdre un temps précieux (200.000 vaccinés sur 7.000.000 convoqués !!) je me laisserai bien gagner par la colère (il faut vacciner 30% de la population pour stopper l’épidémie et aller vite pour devancer les risques de mutation). 

Finalement ce qui me calme c’est d’entendre autour de moi tous ces jeunes couples qui font preuve d’un bon sens remarquable et ont depuis le début respecté les consignes, se sont protégés pendant la grossesse, puis à la maternité et ont été les premiers à se rendre tranquillement au centre de  vaccination fin Octobre. Le bon sens a pris de l’avance. Heureusement.

Il n’en reste pas moins, qu’il nous faudra très certainement nous poser la question des moyens permettant « la prochaine fois » de communiquer plus efficacement et plus en profondeur : conférences citoyennes ? capacité à générer de l’enthousiasme autour de la recherche scientifique ? meilleure intégration des Soignants dans les décisions ? utilisation de moyens modernes pour parler lisiblement à la génération qui fait l’opinion ?

Je n’ai pas les réponses mais il est de la responsabilité de chacun de se poser ces questions .

A lot of people are going to get cameras this holiday season, or have them from the last few seasons.  They have a basic SLR and the kit lens.  There’s a lot you can do with these simple combinations, but they’re limiting as well.  I’ve been involved in a few discussion forums for these mid-level beginners and wanted to echo a post here about an individual who was looking to upgrade, primarily interested in wedding photography, but wanted advice on path forward.

“Agree with others, 18-55 kit *can* take a sharp photo, but it’ll be a challenge if you’re handheld, in low light, and don’t have a high-contrast subject that’s moving. The variable aperture also makes using Manual difficult, try Shutter Priority (Tv) or Aperture Priority (Av) first to get comfortable with working your exposure. If using a flash head, try fooling with bounce flash and Program mode (P). If you have an older Rebel without a thumb wheel, then you won’t really be able to use Manual for anything beyond posed shots, because you’ll only have one of three exposure parameters (shutter, aperture, sensitivity) assigned to the index wheel. Oh, thoroughly read the manual for your camera as you explore each setup. Some people are able to know just the basics and get great stuff, some people need to really dig and understand the nuance. Find out which you are and how much effort you’re willing to put into your craft before laying out cash. Regarding upgrades, I’d stick with the Rebel and first invest in glass. That 50 1.8 is a good choice, you can even get them used for $75 or lower, although they are a bit long on a 1.6x Rebel, almost 85mm. It’ll take some getting used to, which isn’t a bad thing. The 50 1.4 is an even better choice if you can drop a few hundred. Zooms, I’d say go for the 17-55 2.8 IS.. it doesn’t say L (no weather sealing, etc) but it’s L-quality glass. Every bit as good as the 16-35, 24-70 or 24-105 for under $1000. And if you don’t have one, get yourself a 580ex or 580exII flash head and rechargeable batteries (I like Ansmann 2700mAh AAs, they’re a bit pricey but pay for themselves over time) or an external battery pack. Learn to use bounce and fill-in flash and your photos will improve dramatically. More light means smaller aperture and faster shutter, which means more sharpness. More light also means greater saturation. I’m of the philosophy that photography isn’t cheap. Yes you can get by, and yes in the end, it’s the photographer not the camera. You can get some amazing photos with a $250 point-n-shoot, I know… but the proper kit makes it possible to get 500 amazing photos in a night as opposed to just 10 or 20. That’s once you’re ready to “go live,” you can learn everything you need to learn on the Rebel with one decent (fixed aperture) zoom, a prime or two, and a flash head. Best of luck and let’s see some of your photos as you progress!”

Click the photo to see Bryan Carnathan’s excellent review of the latest Rebel offering from Canon, the T1i, an incredible bang-for-buck DSLR package.

By decreasing the saturation, I am able to give the image a more dilapidated look. The door looked more run down, whilst if I increased the saturation

The image looks more vibrant, and less run down. The change in saturation is very obvious. Personally I prefer the decreased saturation picture, as it shows the message that the area is dilapidated.

Boj test kot karkoli drugega. Premalo svetlobe. Drugič pa zares.

A few quickies.  Not too happy with the CA in the first photo, could probably fix it in post but whatever.  If somebody wants to try it, I’d love to see the result!

I like one or two of these in a wedding set.. the couple blurred out, and some sharp detail subject.  More than one or two gets boring though, and when I see other photogs include several of these, I think it looks lazy.

In this picture (which is the same as the last) I have increased the saturation and contrast, to give the image a more colorful, and brighter image. I think that this image is the opposite of my last one, and is more interesting.

Saturation, Hue & Luminousity
3 hal diatas pernah ada dalam pikiranku, apa yang membedakan diantara ketiganya. waktu itu saya bingung karena dengan merubah salah satu dari mereka, warna image bisa berubah. tapi kemudian saya tahu dari buka buka ebook, ketemu arti Saturation dan Hue. dan akhirnya Luminousity juga saya temukan langsung di web canon japan.

this image is taken from http://www.canon.jp

• Saturation saya artikan sebagai kekentalan warna, dengan mengganti slider saturasi berarti kita menambah atau mengurangi kekentalan warna tersebut

• Hue saya artikan sebagai lingkaran warna, bayangkan sebuah lapangan lari berbentuk lingkaran yang berisi perubahan warna, anda berada di tepi CD tersebut dan berlari, maka akan anda temui warna biru kemudian ungu, kuning, hijau coklat kemudian merah dan kemudian kembali ke warna biru (cmiiw). dengan mengganti slider Hue berarti kita mengganti warna dasar dari image tersebut

• Luminousity adalah tingkat kecerahan warna (perhatikan bahwa hal ini berbeda dengan saturasi), dengan menggeser slider luminousity berarti kita telah mengatur tingakat gelap terang warna.

sekarang tercerahkan bukan?

Še malo reklame – nastalo v Positive sport!

Leica M6 camera and Leica 35mm f2 Summicron-M series lens with Kodak Professional Ektachrome 100VS film

The above image was made in Bagan, ancient capital of Myanmar (Burma). The Buddha statue was positioned in front of a mural depicting significant moments from the Buddha’s life. The original image was made with Kodak Ektachrome E100VS film. The ‘vs’ stands for vivid saturation and, with the films slight magenta/red color bias, flesh tones and warm colors sometimes photograph a little too hot for more liking.

In the above image I decided to employ Adobe Camera RAW to de-saturate the image, in particular red and orange, and balance the image out by pushing up the green and blue saturation. I feel a more realistic 3-dimensional representation has been produced.

Leica M6 camera and Leica 35mm f2 Summicron-M series lens with Kodak Professional Ektachrome E100VS film

In the second version I chose Adobe Photoshop CS4 for a black-and-white rendering with varying degrees of split toning throughout shadows, mid tones and highlights.

If you have a favorite I’d be interested to know your preference.

© Copyright All Rights Reserved

Glenn Guy, Blue Sky Photography

Both maintenance releases are containing important stability improvements, especially for the memory issues that were causing crashes when deleting plugins in some host applications.

Additional changes TesslaSE 1.2.1

• noise model removed
• faster loading times on systems with large amounts of system fonts
• VST vendor tag changed to ‘Variety Of Sound’
• manual updated

Additional changes TesslaPRO 1.0.1

• samplerate compatibility issue fixed (internal filter)
• VU needle renders proper on mono tracks now
• VST vendor tag changed to ‘Variety Of Sound’

Both updates are available through the downloads page here.

It’s been fourteen long years since Urge Overkill released it’s last album “Exit The Dragon”. As rumors float, Urge Overkill is presently working on their sixth studio album with no release date yet determined. If you’ve been out of the UO loop in the last 12 years it will not be the original trio but I am optimistic they’ll have not missed a beat with strong vocals from Kato & Roeser.

Urge Overkill made a huge impact in the early 90’s and hit the charts strong with the cover of Neil Diamond’s “Girl You’ll Be A Woman Soon” for the Soundtrack “Pulp Fiction“. Although being put on the map with the amount of airtime from the soundtrack, their 1993 album Saturation was shadowed by label changes but reviews were still in their favor. They continued their sound into 1995 with “Exit The Dragon” but ran into drug issues with drummer Balckie O which cut a tour short. Things between Roeser and Kato then heated as well which lead to “The Break” of UO shortly after.

During the break I had the opportunity to see Nash Kato solo promoting his album “Debutante”. He played in Saskatoon at Amigos just off Broadway to a mere empty venue but still a few followers of UO. A few years later Urge Overkill reunited and toured though Saskatoon for the first time in 2004. In my eye’s both were amazing shows as I will be a true follower of UO or any side projects Roeser or Kato are involved with.

I am not expecting anyone to drop everything for UO. Being form the generation I am from you will have an appreciation for the change in the music world that Urge Overkill was a part of. Keep your ears open for future releases.