Located on the 4th floor , it’s easily accessible as it’s merely a stone’s throw away from the Somerset MRT station.

I was warmly greeted by Bryan upon reaching. (Even though I was so blur as to mistake the place to be at Ion Orchard and arrived close to half an hour late. Sorry!)

A picture of me before the treatment:

I was first seated by Ivan, the hairdresser who analysed my hair and decided on administering the Dialight treatment for me.

 DIALIGHT

AMMONIA-FREE SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR

L’Oreal’s 1st acid tone-on-tone colour. Luminous reflects with ultimate shine and condition.

Suitable for consumers who have Coloured/Sensitised Hair.

At the salon, I felt at home. Cassandra, the hairdresser who took over the treatment considerately offered me ear caps to keep my ears free from the cream she will be applying on my hair. She then carefully applied the treatment in generous slabs onto locks of my hair, ensuring each time that each strand is thoroughly covered with the cream before she moves on to the next lock. The application of the cream on my hair took a while and I looked like this:

I look like I’ve had hair plastered on my scalp! Don’t you think so?

I would be required to keep the treatment on for 20 minutes and a clear sheet was wrapped around my head to let the treatment work its magic on my hair. Meanwhile, I engrossed myself in the latest style tips in the magazine provided and nibbled on the biscuits and water.

20 minutes later, I was ushered to the wash basin where Cassandra worked her fingers through my scalp and gave me a thorough hair wash and a soothing head massage to relax those stiff neck muscles. A rich conditioner was also worked through my tresses to ensure that the ends of my hair retained its moisture.

Cassandra then completed the wash by placing a warm towel on my nape. It was very comfortable. Ivan and Cassandra then used low heat on their hair-dryers to dry my wet hair. Cassandra has also kindly helped me curl the ends and did my side fringe nicely.

Notice any difference? *Hint: Brightness, shinier, glowing!*

Upon reaching home, not wanting to spoil the nice hair that Cassandra has set for me, I quickly took out my camera and snapped a few more shots of my newly treated hair.

It was a shade of hazel brown and indeed, it did look shinier as compare to before. I also received a couple of compliments from my colleagues the following day. One of them mentioned that it was a good change and that not only did my hair look glossy, I looked more radiant sporting this new hair tone too.  Happy! I am one happy girl!

Special Thanks to Cozycot for this lovely treat and I look forward to more of such opportunities!

Til the next post!

http://becwinnel.com
Semi-Permanent

EYELASH FACTS

The Greek terminology for eyelash is BLEPHARIS

Eyelashes contain 3% water and 97% of  a protein called Keratin.

Eyelashes are also considered hair in the body. It grows, falls off, and grows back again. Eyelashes also go through the 3 phases of the hair. These are the growth, transition, and resting phases. The 1st phase is when the lashes grow and lasts up to a maximum of 45 days. After which, it goes through the 2nd phase where the eyelashes stops growing and may last up to 3 weeks. In the 3rd phase, the lashes do not continue growing, stays for 100 days and then they fall out. It normally takes up to 8 weeks to replace an eyelash that fell out.

An eyelash is one of the hairs that grow on the outer edge of the eyelid,  its purpose is to protect the eyes from debris. They are said to be likened to that of a cats whisker –  they are sensitive when touched providing warning that an object is approaching the eye.

Eyelashes in the embryo develop around the 22nd – 26^th week of pregnancy.

An eyelash cycle of growth is approximately 100 – 150 days.

There is on average approx 150 – 200 lashes on the upper lid and 70 – 100 lashes on the lower lid.

Long eyelashes are considered a sign of femininity in a lot of cultures, while some cultures like the Hadza – located in north central Tanzania trim theirs.

Kohl was a grinding of lead sulfide mixed with other ingredients,  it was initially used to protect and enhance lashes.  It was also thought that blackening the area around the eye would protect it from the suns harsh rays, this dates back to 3100BC.

The wealthy in Ancient Egypt used it to protect eyes from sand, dust and bugs.

1960’s was the time for the boom in the false eyelashes popularity.

Modern day has seen the birth of eyelash extensions and even eyelash transplants.

Eyelash Growth

While most women may choose the use of fake eyelash extensions to achieve longer eyelashes, there arevitamins and nutrients that can actually promote eyelash growth naturally. These are Vitamin B-3, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin H, and Calcium. These can help with the eyelash in a number of ways such as improving blood flow in the hair glands, acting as antioxidants to protect the lashes and the eyes from infections and toxins, preventing the lashes from drying and falling out, and lowering the risk of losing hair brought about by illnesses such as hypothyroidism.

Olive oil acts as conditioners to the eyelashes which will allow them to grow longer, stronger, and healthier.Emu oil speeds up and encourages new hair growth. Vaseline can also be used as alternatives to olive and emu oils. Yogurt, beans, eggs, fish, and soy protein are foods that an individual can also take which also help in increasing and promoting eyelash growth.

There are also cosmetic products that are marketed to aid in eyelash growth an enhancement. One of these is a liquid applicator that promises thicker and vibrant eyelashes in two week time. It also claims to have to side effects when applies. The black mascara is also a trusted product by most women to make their lashes appear fuller and sexier. It also adds an overall glow in the eyes.

ODD EYELASH FACTS

Most of us have microscopic, worm like mites named Demodex that live in our eyelashes and have claws and a mouth.

In ancient Egypt, priests plucked EVERY hair from their bodies, including their eyebrows and eyelashes

In Brazil, there’s a species of cockroach that eats eyelashes, usually those of young children while they are asleep.

www.likemindedstudio.com

Eyelash extensions are synthetic, mink or human hair pieces of enhancements designed to add length, thickness and fullness to natural eyelashes. They are similar to hair extensions except for eyelashes. They can be separated into two types: temporary and semi-permanent. There is also a medical way of enhancing eyelashes. But thats not my specialty so ill leave that blogging to those experts… Hmm maybe ill do some research later on too… Im a lil Miss Know it all and if i cant find an expert I GOOGLE IT till i’m blue in the face from reading so many opinions.

Anyways so a lil history for you…

Lash extensions originated in Korea. In 1916 this Director D.W. Griffith was making his film Intolerance wanted to make his leading lady,  actress Seena Owen stand out out from the rest with some sexy come hither lashes.  They were created by a wig maker who used a super fine gauze to pull them together and attach them to her eyes! And just like that a new obsession for us women to blog, facebook, google, pinterest about was born! So even though the technique was originated in Korea, It wasn’t till Vietnam got a hold of them that they created the first synthetic lashes, silk lashes, all the thicknesses and sizes and all the “must-haves” that each Lash Stylist carry’s in their kit. So now this has me wondering because  it wasn’t until the 1990′s when False lashes became a Film, TV, and Celebrity must-have. Korea introduced this New single lash application in 2004 and soon after Beauty Salons here in the US started offering the service. They were then popularized like rapid fire & are now available at price ranges that “we” could afford but that wasn’t till …ummm CRAP this might be wrong… but it wasn’t till 2004 (maybe it was 2005-6 oops i cant remember.) Lash Extensions have come a long way it is almost crazy how much technique, style and quality has evolved since 1916. I would love to see the road it took to get here and the changes & mistakes that were made along the way.

Eyelash Extensions are synthetic lashes that are attached to an individuals natural lashes using a special adhesive.  The lashes come in different lengths, curls and thickness’ which makes it possible to customize the application.  Manufactured by hand or by machine, most eyelash extensions are made from polyester to imitate human lashes and other materials such as mink and silk.  Real mink fur as well as human hair are also used.

So here’s what these little guys look like. It makes me laugh to see clients expressions when they see them. Most people are curious and ask to see them and when i show them this little baggie or jar filled with tiny lashes that don’t look like much, their excitement sorta fades into disappointment into nervousness.

These are loose synthetic lashes

Now these are the same but in tray, More then often they are labeled 100% Mink… I still don’t understand the reasoning behind that. Since it is very apparent they are “Silkz” a lil softer and lighter then Synthetic but THEY ARE NOT 100% MINK! Down Below are lashes that claim to be 100% Siberian Mink.

 And last but not least is Human Hair Extensions, the thinnest, softest and very natural look that i recommend for those with lil to no lashes due to chemo or some sort of ailment. Most clients that come to me are looking for something a bit more dramatic then natural. This is why I favor Silkz but keep all of them on hand to be able to service any client the way they want!

Today I Created Something Beautiful

http://kellianderson.com/
www.semipermanent.com/event/Sydney2012

I have used so many purple hair dyes, from so many different brands. Not one of them is half as good as La riche’s Directions Hair Colour.

I mentioned in my ‘Hair Colour’ post, that I have had almost every colour hair. Every colour except from Black, have been possible because La riche’s Directions Hair Colour.

First I’ll give a little information on Directions hair colour:

Directions is a semi-permanent conditioning hair colour that was established in 1981. Directions hair colour comes in 34 different shades which are all of intense colour. It does not require any mixing. You just apply it from the tub. =]

But I am going to review the colour Plum in this post. (If you want me to review another colour just let me know! I’m sure I’ve tried almost all of them!)

Plum is an amazing hair colour. It adds a splash of colour without being too in your face bright. I’ve had this colour before but decided to go back to it because it is such an awesome colour. Usually when using Directions hair colours, I have to lighten my hair a bit because my natural hair colour is too dark for anything to show up. But this time I decided to do it over dark brown hair (My hair was red, then I went over it with black, then it faded to a dark reddish/brown colour). It came out perfect. To me it looks black because the lighting in my house is really bad since there is no sun in London, but when I see my friends, they tell me how intense and amazing the colour is!

Directions is very conditioning and you can even mix it with your regular conditioner for extra conditioning (and a top up of colour without using too much product).

Le riche’s Directions colour does fade, but there is plenty in the tub for me to do my whole head 2/3 times. (My hair is shoulder length and very very thick) And even if it only lasts you the one application, I buy my tubs for £2.99, which is cheaper than any other hair dye I have used, to I’d just buy another one. It is also good that the colour fades because instead of having to lighten my hair with a bleach, I can just wait for the colour to fade and apply a new colour!

If you like bold, intense colour, I recommend buying any Directions hair colour. It has never failed me.

My youngest sister Vanessa had never colored her hair before and we didn’t want to do anything drastic. (My mom would kill us) We decided to just add a couple peekaboos. I used the Paul Mitchell Dual-Purpose Lightener with a 30 volume developer, and foiled them individually. After I got them to a nice blonde, we added the purple, which was N’Rage Color in Purple Plum.

Permanent hair color requires less-frequent applications.
Hair stylist image by Nina Hergarten from Fotolia.com

L’Oreal recommends waiting two weeks

Most permanently colored hair grows at a rate that will require touching up the roots at least once every six weeks. The L’Oreal website recommends waiting at least two weeks between hair color applications. The recommendation is to wash hair, wait at least 24 hours and then apply the hair color.

Permanent color lasts longer than semi-permanent

Permanent hair color does not wash out like semi-permanent color does. Semi-permanent color washes out in as little as 10 shampoos, while permanent hair color lasts until it grows out or is covered up with another hair color. Permanent hair color needs to be reapplied as the hair roots grow out, usually every four to six weeks.

Bottom Line

Although you can recolor your hair every two weeks with L’Oreal hair color it probably wouldn’t be very practical to do so because of the time and expense involved. Unless you are opting to change your color entirely, touching up the roots every four to six weeks is much more economical than coloring your hair every two weeks.

Temporary and Semi-Permanent Colors

Temporary and semi-permanent hair dyes, such as Manic Panic, recommend washing your hair before applying color. The shampoo will remove oil and hair product, allowing for the color to attach to the cuticle of the hair.

Demi-Permanent and Permanent Hair Color

When applying permanent color, hair should not be washed for 24-48 hours before coloring. The natural oils protect your scalp from the chemicals of permanent color. During this time, it is best to avoid overuse of styling products.

Bottom Line

If your regular styling routine includes a lot of hair products, a clarifying shampoo can be used one week before any color application. Determine your cleansing needs as compared to your color product, and follow manufacturers recommendations.

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges between myself and a client.

This is such a contentious subject:

A never ending issue for so many women. I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange.

Below have posted the question raised in dark solid type. and have tried to respond to the question raised this.This was a real situation and exchange of idea’s with someone who contacted me on line via this blog.

Text from Initial article:

Question:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your! Was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair. Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it or some other Alkaline. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia.It just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way. If you are mixing two products together  then the chances are you are still using peroxide in your formulation and so permanent hair colour.

Client Reply:

Wow! Thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

My Reply:

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth into account,the question becomes? Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.

Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue that being. Roots or re growth that have never been previously coloured and mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. In this case different formulation will be required,one to lift and deposit on the root area. One just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade Isuggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

The above shot is a god example of going lighter over time from an all over permanent solid shade. It also allows for the issue of Grey hair,In this instance by introducing over time different shades of lowlights with out the need for bleaching.We are embracing the grey issue working with it.Over time the hair is in better condition and the time between needing colour service is extended.

You might think odd why would you want to see a client less often? Good point but because she is so happy this client recommends more of her friends they keep my busy .In real terms i am growing my business by being honest and giving great service.

Try it It’s not always about the 4 or 6 week ticket it is about re booking in a time frame that works for each and every client be it 4 weeks 6 weeks or 8weeks!

The above model was having highlights every 5 to 6 weeks .It was to Blonde damaged over processed.Now with low lighting and highlighting she has her roots done only on the top a big T section every 3 months the rest is natural .She is very happy!

hope this helps you.

Mike B2MR

Thanks
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

仮設の半永久的な駐車所はお寺やオフィスビルやマンションに囲まれています。高いエレベーターの駐車場はお寺の土地を使っているそうです。

In the foreground, there’s an automated surface parking lot on a lot that may get developed. The tall white structure is an elevated parking lot that is semi-permanent, and it appears to have been erected on the property of a fairly large temple and graveyard. On either side, offices and apartment buildings  frame a dense and changing city.

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

What is written in the heavy print is my view of course only my view!! However I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material in the public domaine.

Always research don’t trust all that you read as being correct knowledge is power  a little knowledge is dangerous! Stay informed current up to date have high standards and expect nothing less from those around you!

Lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR

Permanent Colour:

Permanent colour gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations and in maybe an extreme case! In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application. Issues with excess warmth will occur using 40 vol developer! 

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available always find out what the alkaline is in your colour!

Semi-Permanent Colour:

Colour usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Colour:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle for slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Colour:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Colour Rinse:

Colour lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                      1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLOURED HAIR CARE TIPS

Coloured and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun. Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

SHAMPOO COLOUR ENHANCERS:

Use colour enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

Personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply! I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

I went to the doctor’s yesterday, because I am instructed to go every six months to speak with my GP in order to get my refill of Zoloft.  If I fail to do this, he withholds my prescription, my OCD kicks in like the dead man’s switch on a waterboarding table, and my wife finds me in the basement, prone, straightening carpet fibers so they all lean the same way.

It was actually serendipitous that I got to see him in that I’ve had chronic pain in my shoulder for the past month.  Turns out it is “rotator cuff tendinitis” which is common in “men my age” and is “only the beginning” of “chronic pain” brought on by the onset of “middle age.”

Fuck.

So I suffered through a cortisone shot, which made me feel like an athlete—just shoot me up, doc, I still got a few inning left in the old wing—until he made me sign a release.  I asked if all injections came with a release nowadays, but he just shook his head.

“Just this one?”

A nod.  My doctor had been struck mute.  Not a good sign.

“Why?”

“It’s possible that you could suffer some temporary nerve damage.”

“Like…”

“Like semi-permanent paralysis.”

I can’t even begin to fathom the paradox inherent in the hyphenate “semi-permanent”, but at that point I was fixated on the second part of the phrase.

“Paralysis?”

“Semi-permanent.”

“So no biggie?”

Now just a concerned look from doctor to nurse.

“Like, left side of my face goes slack for a few hours?”

“Well, yeah, but that goes away.  Most patients are more upset that they can’t control their bodily functions.”

“So this could lead me to…”

“Pissing and shitting yourself.”

“Like a goose?”

“If that makes you feel better.”

Of course, the injection was administered with no side effects, and I burned several hundred calories in flop-sweat and bargaining with God for nothing.

It gets you thinking a little bit, though, which brings me to the crux of my tale.

I have a really hard time saying no to my kids.

OK, let’s rewind.  I can make the word “No” with my lips very easily, and use it often.

“Dad, can I use the drill?”

“No.”

“Dad, can I play with this dry-cleaner bag?”

“No.”

“Dad, Reilly has a pet cougar.  Can we get a pet–”

“No.”

Where I falter is when they want to spend time with me and I have shit to do.  This is frustrating, because as a grown-up, we are required to perform certain “grown-up tasks”–work, spouse-time, chores.  Kids don’t see that.  Each day is a playground of expectation and opportunity.  Parents, or adults, who don’t see that are boring, evil, or stupid.

I blame Harry Chapin for this.

Specifically his song “Cat’s in the Cradle” that treacly piece-of-shit message song about absentee parents and their deformed kids.  Every time my kid makes a reasonable request on my time and I have other things I have (or, god forbid, want) to do, that song starts to play in my head.

“Dad, can you build Legos with me?”

“Well I have to mow the–” …when you coming home dad, I don’t know when… “FUCK!  Yes.  Let’s go play Legos.”

“Dad, can you play Mario Bros with me?”

“I really have to grade these–” …but we’ll be together, then, dad, I know we’ll have a… “FUCK!  Yes, let’s play Mario Bros.”

“Dad, I really want to paint your nude form.”

“That’s kind of weird and probably frowned upon by–” …he’d grown up just like me, my boy was just like… “FUCK!  OK, give me a chance to find my jock strap.”

The last one’s made up, I promise, but you get the idea.

If Harry Chapin were still alive I would punch him right in the starfish.  I am sorry your dad was busy providing for you, asshole, and didn’t have time to throw you a ball, but you don’t have to take it out on him with a first-person account of an clueless and apathetic company man and the emotional neglect he visited upon his kid.

Really, if you listen to the song in a certain frame of mind, you realize that the old man is just busy.  I mean, shit, he buys him a ball, calls and talks to him when the kids an adult, sends him to college.  So he missed his birth.  At that point in time fathers weren’t allowed in the delivery room anyway so how much did he miss?  Getting hammered with a janitor in the waiting room?

But now, because of that song, I can’t function like a free-willed man “of a certain age” because of the emotional blackmail imposed upon me by my children and a dead, semi-talented folksinger.

But after my doctor’s visit, I felt strong.  Who knew what the next day might bring?  I could die or worse, be “semi-permanently” paralyzed.  I would live for me, for now.

I was driving back from dropping my oldest off at a slumber party, my son in tow.  It was past his bedtime.

“Dad, play Mario Kart when we get home.”

“It’s your bedtime, buddy.”

“One race?”

“Nope.”

And the Cat’s in the Cradle and the Silver Spoon…

FUCK!

“OK, one game.”

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Semi Permanent Hair Colour:

Mousse, gels. Demi, permanent,

When we think about semi permanent colour we naturally assume slow wash out or fade maybe 6 to 8 washes up to 6 weeks. That’s what is says on the box or what we lead to believe not always the case!

In reality we have to consider so many things be it in the salon or at home? What we expect from this colour .What is my hair condition is it advisable?

Are we going tone on tone? Are we considering putting a darker shade than our natural level not a great deal is achieved putting lighter over darker!

If putting a cool Red {blue red} over say Blonde as it fades a pinkish, purple, hue could be left. bright true Red could fade leaving {red orange} hue.

The porosity of your own hair plays a part in how these colours may deposit. How long they last and how they fade, as well as the chemical make up of the product.

Buyer beware!

A product that is promoted as being semi permanent can still have ingredients in the formulation to open the cuticle and help with the deposit of the said colour.

This is not ammonia you can change the Ph thus opening the cuticle with money alkaline products shampoo can change the environment. Detergent/soaps, alcohol These will open the cuticle thus allowing stains to deposit slightly deeper into the hair.

It will over time create staining. It will slowly build up after prolonged use.

Hair in it’s normal state has a ph 0f 5.5 Anything raising or changing this level,this environment. Will open the cuticle to some degree. Some so called semi permanent might change the ph to as much as ph of 7!!!

In some cases they can leave behind trace chemical residue the same can be so of the mousse colour refreshing products Reds. Blondes.They can leave behind trace elements that build up and can effect professional colour applications.

In some cases they can effect the deposit of professional colour creating banding issues or poor deposit. see article on shampoo with colour pigments added.

 As a stylists always consultation it’s the key to a successful out come:

How many of you have cried their eyes out! after a colour has gone wrong? Been close to shaving your head after unfortunate choice of hair colour? Hands up! Yes ? With hair the colour of scrambled eggs…Dying your hair is not as easy as the adverts make it out to be.  I am not talking about the technique! Just the many things to take into account when considering hair colour both product and desired effect! 

It’s product choice.  It’s hair condition. It’s history of the hair previous colour. It’s application. It’s formulation. It’s timing. Oh did i mention skill and knowledge training?

The question arises:

I have coloured my hair it’s the wrong shade what can i do? Was it one tube or bottle or a mix pack?

When you applied the color did you mix 2 things together?  Was it a twist the top asking that you shake 2 suspended liquids together or were you able to apply it straight from the bottle with out mixing anything?

If you mixed 2 things you used a long lasting semi permanent, or what the pro’s call a Demi permanent. They usually contain a very low volume of peroxide and little or no ammonia, they use a different chemical to cause the oxidation instead of ammonia. such a detergent,  {in the form alkaline solution} some have a grain alcohol derivative in them maybe even metallic salts!

If it came straight from the bottle to your hair it was a direct dye or preformed dye molecule in an alkaline solution. The alkaline liquid causes the hair shaft to swell so that the large molecules of color will penetrate slightly into the cortex sticking to the cuticle. This is the principle that the washes out in 15 – 20 shampoos works, the cuticle can’t lie completely flat again because the colored molecules are in the way so each time we shampoo or wet our hair the cuticle raises or swells slightly and the rubbing action of our hands while we lather pulls a few of them off eventually we have none left and our hair is back to  nearly its original state.

Having said this continued use or applying to damaged hair you can and will get build up! porosity of hair it’s natural moisture level it’s Ph can be compromised.

DEMI PERMANENT COLOUR:

Two products mixed together much deeper deposit!

Demi  permanent colours use either low levels of ammonia or MEA {methylethylalamine}  in place of the ammonia, to oxidize  the colour molecule low level of  hydrogen peroxide less than 5vol this cause the indirect dye molecules to mature and develop into desired color. While this is considered Demi permanent because it does not lighten natural pigment with continued use it will slowly lighten the hairs natural level so could create regrowth issues and indeed over time fading issues!

The key here is not to over use and always assess the hair before any application:

The above model is a rich Brown tone on tone colour with a short textured razor cut.

Final option the one that covers fully but can create the most issues of effecting condition, deposit, banding, health and shine.

Permanent colour:

Normally mixing from a tube but in some form liquid or ge, mixing colour pigment with a peroxide mix  this is a process of lift and deposit. the colour may ammonia or be advertised as being ammonia free. MEA grain alcohol derivative in all cases the action is to change the ph of the hair open the cuticle, These products have hydrogen peroxide in them this serves to purposes it lifts your natural hair level , it also reacts with the colour molecule to help it mature or to develop it.

This is a process of lift and deposit and is permanent, many issues can arise in this choice of product from over processing to poor deposit to not attaining the correct or desired colour.

It is my personal opinion that any one want permanent colour should at least seek professional advise before embarking on this journey!

Finally a home colour correction tool:

Whilst doing research On line I came across a colour remover Product for home use not a thing I would normally promote. sold in most branches of Boot’s chemist B4 Colour remover.

The key to using any product is to follow the instruction to the latter.  Don’t take short cuts make sure you allow enough time to do this process correctly. This colour remving product is everything it claims to be I was very impressed. But remember it only removes artificial pigment if you have coloured your hair a number of times do not expect your natural colour to appear. If you have over time lifted your natural level with each colour application using permanent colour.you may be able to remove the unwanted pigment but your hair’s natural level will be lighter and in some cases very light if hair has been coloured over a long period. Remember none of these products  are a miracle quick fix. So do your re search become informed if in doubt have a professional consultation.

Before using or applying think about your choices and options: Then make a decision and live with the consequences. good luck hope this has been helpful.

MikeB2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

What is Demi colour? How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

It’s the all round fixer it’s natural looking healthy colour! At it’s core it’s tone on tone deposit It’s suitable for so many applications.

For tone on tone or darker process time of 20 minutes without lift small amount of low volume peroxide is required to mature the colour pigment.

[note over lapping application may result in re growth issues]

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift. Not to mention colour balancing key to maintaining good colour depth and tone.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

Kelly Thompson draws and photographs pretty girls. Hailing from New Zealand, Thompson completed a Bachelor of Design at Massey University in Wellington and has since created work for the likes of Mimco, Spicers Paper, NZ Opera and altogether adorable fashion company Lonely Hearts. More than that, her work has been featured in numerous publications, including Yen Magazine and Curvy. Plus! She was invited to speak at the design conference Semi-Permanent earlier this year, and prints upon prints are available to purchase via her website. The woman is talented.

Thompson’s work is imbued with sensitivity and beauty. In both line work and colour choices, she manages to speak volumes with not a whole heap of obvious detail. Having said that, you’ll probably do a double take or two, trying to work out which are photographs and which are drawings.

Particular favourites are illustrations so casually sexy they’ll have you staring for much longer than is appropriate. To add the cherry on top, there are plenty of beauties in glasses, proving just how cool nerdy is.

More at kellythompson.co.nz

I’ve always been obsessed by beautiful things. Don’t look at me like that, it’s fair enough, isn’t it? When the world gets a little ugly, if you can find peace in something beautiful then so be it. Beauty takes the edge off. When everyone else resorts to a few shots at the end of a shitty week, I stock up on Vogue and IdN (design mag, get on it).

However! This little habit tends to eat through my bank account, so I was over the moon when I began my graphic design course and I could write off all buyers’ guilt for the simple reason that I needed this stuff.

So began my collection of design books. Over the past two years I have been slowly and surely adding more and more beautiful spines to my bookshelf, and from there they shine out like beacons of hope, always prepared to offer advice and inspiration when I’m stuck in lowest of creative lows.

If you’re only ready to dip your toe in the water (and live in Melbourne), head to Mag Nation. There are two branches, but my personal favourite is the Elizabeth Street store. Allow an afternoon and climb the stairs to the third floor for there you shall find a kind of design mecca. As mentioned, IdN is a regular fave, and every so often they bring out a special edition which is particularly awesome. Also affordable are the editions of Wooden Toy magazine, so lovely! Ready to spend a little more? Semi-Permanent is an Australian design festival and every year they release two beautifully presented books, full to the brim with both up-and-coming and established artists.

For all my other design needs that cannot be satisfied by what is available over here, The Book Depository (a UK site with FREE shipping!) sends regular little packages of joy right to my doorstep. Favourites of mine are Hand Job, a collection of hand drawn type collated by Mike Perry, and Playful Type 2.

What other amazing publications have I missed? Tell me of your favourite places of inspiration and we can build our collections together!

The colour you’re dying your hair is a major factor in the damage department. If you’re going lighter than your natural shade you’ll need either a semi-permanent or permanent dye, though both employ hydrogen peroxide to remove the natural pigments in your hair. If you’re going darker, try choosing a demi-permanent dye instead—it doesn’t need to “lift” your hair before colouring and won’t deteriorate your hair’s strength nearly as much. Whichever way you’re going, you’ll likely benefit from using a treatment afterwards. We like Joico K-PAK Revitaluxe ($25, joico.com) because it holds old damage together with peptides that bind, and prevents future damage by pumping your hair full of amino acids with strength.

In need of an afternoon beauty pick-me-up? Email us at beautyfix@fashionmagazine.com.

Help FASHION celebrate our 10th annual Reader’s Choice Beauty Awards by telling us which products are your ultimate must-haves. Vote at fashionmagazine.com/beautyawards for a chance to WIN a beauty pack with your top picks!

Thank you to the Semi-Permanent crew for supplying me with some shots of the day below:

Got everyone folding of course!

I brought my pop-up books along to show all the curious punters after my speech.

–––

I’m presenting a speech at Semi-Permanent down in Melbourne over the weekend.
Such a priviledge to be asked >> Hello Melbourne!

I’m really looking forward to sharing my work with the design savvy audience down there. I’ll be bringing some of my pop-up books along as well >> it’s always better to see them in the real.
There is a pretty impressive list of speakers and more about what is in store HERE.
Please come say hello if you are attending! Enjoy your weekend.

Artists include: 23rd Key, Aida Sabic, Bec Winnel, Beccy Brown, Cam Scale, Deb, Gary Seaman, Itch, Jack Douglas, Kaitlin Beckett, KID9, Kirpy, Kitty Horton, Luke Ryan, Matthew Dunn, Makatron, Maria Finna, Michael Steele, Nate Holmes Trapnell, Nom Kinnar King, Pierre Lloga, Poise, Sam Octigan, Sirum, Zoran Nova and loads more!!

Opening Night Thursday 22nd September 6-10pm at 1000 Pound Bend – 361 Lt Lonsdale St, Melbourne. Show runs till the 26th September.

http://www.justanotheragency.com.au/