Yesterday I wrote about continued conflict between Hizbul Islam and al Shabab in parts of southern Somalia, and had a good discussion with commenter Toaf about where things might be headed. Today I want to discuss how conflict affects local communities.

First, fighting drives people from their homes and fundamentally destabilizes communities. Al Shabab’s recent conquest of Afmadow sent thousands of people fleeing, including key elders and businesspersons. This further erodes local political and economic systems. Moreover, when refugees flood into new areas – or other countries – that places pressure on societies and leaders there.

And for people who remain in a town hit by fighting, problems accumulate. Beledweyne, near the Ethiopian border, frequently changes hands between Hizbul Islam, the Transitional Federal Government, and Ethiopian forces. Repeated shifts in rule have driven many residents into camps outside the city, halted much economic activity, and exacerbated problems of malnutrition and disease.

Second, the fighting makes it impossible for many aid agencies to continue working. I am continually surprised to hear that any are still working, and I admire the bravery of the men and women who have remained in Somalia to provide humanitarian assistance despite pervasive violence. Now, however, even some of the bravest are being forced out:

The regional spokesman for the United Nations’ World Food Program, Peter Smerdon, tells VOA that the agency was forced to withdraw five local staff members from the town of Afmadow in Lower Jubba on Saturday.

Smerdon says the move follows the evacuation of six WFP international workers from the town of Buale in Middle Jubba nine days ago.  Christian humanitarian organization, World Vision, also flew out six members of its staff in Buale on the same day.

“In Afmadow, it was clashes between Islamist groups.  In Buale, it was because of security concerns, which I cannot go into,” he said.

WFP and World Vision are two of only a handful of international aid agencies operating in Somalia’s southern regions.  The United Nations says the evacuation of WFP staff is yet another blow to a country, where a third of its population, more than three-and-a-half million people, need urgent food aid.

World Vision plans to continue some of its programs in the Juba region, but obviously violence is creating massive difficulties.

Finally, the politics of international aid to Somalia also have effects on the ground. Earlier this month, the UN and the WHO warned of looming disaster in Somalia: floods, disease, and hunger could affect millions without an increase in aid, and even the funds available could hardly be disbursed due to violence. US concerns that money might flow to al Shabab led to restrictions on aid delivery that “have put aid groups operating in the area in a near-impossible bind.” Some money is still coming in – the African Development Bank recently pledged $2 million for Somalia’s Transitional Federal Government – but the TFG serves a fraction of the population.

In short, suffering is real and widespread, and those of us who follow the political and strategic aspects of the civil war would do well to keep the human aspects in mind.

*************************

As a coda, the crisis in Somalia has occasioned some reflection among bloggers about the American role in the 2006 Ethiopian invasion of Somalia. Adam Serwer writes that US support for the invasion was a mistake, and I agree. So does the Majlis Blog, though not as explicitly. The Majlis Blog also wonders what the US can do now, a question few are bold enough to answer with specifics (including me).

I believe we must not overestimate our capacity to “fix” Somalia. In the interest of crafting a more coherent policy, however, we do need to have more serious national conversations about a number of questions, including: Should we recognize Somaliland? How should we treat Puntland? Do our policies toward Kenya seem likely to help Kenya deal with fallout from Somalia’s civil war? What will we do if Ethiopia contemplates another major intervention in Somalia? Can we prevent regional actors from arming factions inside Somalia? And can we quarantine southern Somalia if the TFG falls?

And lest we forget, here’s a reminder of some history:

US Soldier in Somalia, 1992

Every year, Transparency International makes a list of the most corrupt countries in the world. I searched through the blogs to find out more about each one, from a travelers’ perspective.

1. Somalia

Hardiek at the border of Somalia

“For those of you who don’t know (almost everybody, including me up until a few weeks ago) the once unified country of Somalia is now effectively divided into three, the rump Somalia surrounding dangerous Mogadishu, the country of Puntland from which all the ship piracy of recent fame takes place, and Somaliland, relatively peaceful and open for business, connected by land to the also relatively peaceful states of Djibouti and Ethiopia.” – Hardiek

2. Afghanistan

Samcato telling home base about an explosion in Afghanistan

“From ‘grease my palm’ to ‘oil-fill my bellybutton’: corruption has penetrated the political, economic, judicial and social systems so thoroughly that it has ceased to be a deviation from the norm and become the norm itself. Corruption had existed ever since the Taliban regime was toppled, but it has reached a historically record breaking level. Ordinary Afghans are well aware of this, the majority of the country is sorry, not because it existed but they are not in a position to benefit from bribery. Corruption has become so endemic that it is perceived as normal. Nothing is possible at the same time, everything is possible. When a job comes to a standstill it doesn’t mean there is a problem with the job, it is time to grease up some bellybuttons. If one is prepared to pay as much as needed then anything could be done. Shortcuts are introduced if one is willing to compromise. I could have thought of any word as synonyms for bribery but not compromise, Farsi and Pashto languages are rich with euphemisms for bribe. My favorite and all time fresh is ‘Shirini’, the sweetener. It is generally used when you got something done. In other words shirini is post bribery bribe. Don’t be surprised. At least I had something done, these days ordinary citizens pay bribes as much to be left alone as to get something done. They call it ‘Kharcha’, ‘paeesi chai’, ‘jawani’ and many more which are basically *bribe of survival*. Exactly this has changed everything; everyone attempts to be in a position to take a bribe as oppose to a sucker. Bribe takers are at the highest rank of the society where everybody inspires to be.” – Samcato

3. Myanmar

Markl's tour guide "Stella" spoke about the corruption in her country

“Stella was forthcoming about the current regime and it’s appalling corruption. They have moved the capital inland and have created an insane, artificial compound where the military and civil servants live in pampered luxury. They are building a zoo, of all things there, and transporting the animals from Yangon zoo to fill it. So the people in the capital get a few old camels and the rest get shipped 300 miles inland. Civil service pensions are no better, her mother receives 100 Kyat or $0,10 a day. Stella’s bitterness was mainly reserved for the treatment of the poor who seem to have been mainly abandoned by the political rulers. The stories of aid for rural people post Cyclone Nargis in 2009 were terrifying.” – Markl

4. Sudan

Bonthorn on the road in Sudan

“You have two choices when you come to a roadblock. You can play Mr./Mrs. Nice Guy/Gal and greet the officer as if you’ve known him your whole life, shake hands amicably and ask about his health, his family, their health, etc. Calling him ‘my friend’ and patting him on the back is also a good tactic (although never try this if you are female). After all the formalities are completed, he might just let you off the hook and wish you a “Good Journey”. The second option is to play dumb and pretend you have no idea what the officer is saying, although it’s blatantly obvious. Keep jabbering in English in a tone that is neither offensive nor accusing, and sooner or later, he will hopefully tire of you and your feigned stupidity and wave you on. So far, these are the two choices we’ve attempted, both at pretty successful rates. But the key is to pick one and stick to it BEFORE your car is stopped and you’re face to face with him and his gun.” – Bonthorn

5. Iraq

Rebecca.mcneal went through several checkpoints in Iraq

“After passing through numerous checkpoints, Iraqi, Pesmerga and Awakening Council fighter types we neared Mosul. Mosul was the only place that was worrisome. We passed by a truck bomb site that had killed 250 people in the recent past. We were not allowed to photograph checkpoints which were all manned with machine guns.” – Rebecca.mcneal

6. Chad

Kevandsian picked up some unexpected hitchhikers in Chad

“Crossing into Chad was surprisingly hassle free, the police in this country have a bad reputation for being corrupt and subtracting bribes and ‘tolls’ at every opportunity. We took a hitch hiker at the request of the police and also transported a soldier to the next village. We then gave another 5 police and military personnel lifts to neighboring towns 55 kms away,becoming the essential local transport as the first truck to pass through in 6-7 days. We decided this might help avoid searches and bribes at police stops and ease our journey. They did help at one small town where the police demanded a 16 dollar fee per person for registering and stamping our passports which was eventually avoided successfully.” – Kevandsian

7. Uzbekistan

Crowdywendy's tour guide in Uzbekistan, Behruz

Our first morning in Bukhara introduced us to the entrenched police and official corruption in Uzbekistan. It was our first introduction to “bakeesh” or bribes to officials. At the first Bukhara bank we were told that we were not allowed in. “Why not?” we asked. It was a very large bank and there were numerous tellers open everywhere. Well, we just couldn’t. The police were stationed at the entrance of the bank and would not let people in. Well, of course with a little bribe they would… But we resisted and moved on to yet another bank, and another. Later that evening while talking with other hotel guests, we were told that it is not uncommon for locals to have to try ten or so different banks before they would be allowed entry. The young local people were openly disgusted with the practice.

Similarly, bakeesh is a common practice with the police. There are frequent road blocks throughout Uzbekistan. While we had no problems thanks to Naim calling out “tourists!” at every point we were told over and over again by locals about the road police. Apparently being a police officer on the roads is a much sought after profession. Although they are dreadfully underpaid they certainly make up for it in bribes or bakeesh.” – Crowdywendy

8. Turkmenistan

Ricka leaving the "ferry from hell" in Turkmenistan

We loaded on-board after a trainload of freight was stowed and we were squeezed in between the carriages and the crew started to hassle us for “Security Fees”. We all had the sense to tell them to get lost! We were on at last! Another trip back into the customs hall to get our final clearance and it was back on board, passports handed over to a dodgy looking guy along with $90 and then a stagger up to the deck with our luggage. We wondered why there were loads of crewmembers smiling and laughing at us, little did we know!
The dodgy guy we gave our passports and cash to started to try to explain that if we wanted a cabin they were $100. We said no thanks, at that price we could manage the 12 hour crossing on the deck. I had a suspicion that things may not go to plan so I followed a crew down into the ship to have a look at a cabin. He showed me two of the filthyest, run-down excuses for cabins I had ever seen, with the “bathrooms” being even worse. I haggled with the guy anyway as I knew this was a “take it or leave it” situation and I settled on twenty bucks per cabin – I thought we would be needing them!” – Ricka

9. Iran

Jimsim at Persepolis in Shiraz, Iran

“While Sim took a few snaps of the mosque I chatted to a local soldier who was visiting the mosque. He was very young, and was very upbeat about Iran’s prospects for the future. While not stating a preference for either the hardline or more moderate of Iran’s leaders he seemed to believe that by keeping the right (positive) attitude the people of Iran would pull the country in the right direction. It was hard not to be caught up in his enthusiasm. He was also extremely helpful while we were there, happily answering the barrage of questions I had about Shiraz and it’s major attractions.” – Jimsim

10. Haiti

Mim301 on her first day volunteering in Haiti

“It is so hard to believe that so many people in Haiti live in poverty because of such a corrupt government, but that the beaches and mountains are so beautiful. I guess that this is just another one of life’s great mysteries.” – Mim301

I’m not much of a humorist, but I’ll point out that the title of this post is a (weak, I admit) pun, for it refers both to the current state of affairs in the autonomous republic of Somaliland and to Somaliland’s quest for international recognition. Both stories have made headlines recently.

Berbera, Somaliland

Al Jazeera asks, as many others have, whether Somaliland is heading toward collapse. A crisis over presidential elections, originally scheduled for late September but now delayed indefinitely, has made observers in and outside the country uneasy since this summer. But now, Al Jazeera writes, “Recent violence, particularly in the capital Hargeysa, has shown that the crisis in Somaliland has changed from being political to one of security and stability.”

When Al Jazeera speaks of violence, they are referring partly to the explosion that killed a senior military official in the town of Las Anod earlier this month. It’s unclear who bears responsibility for the bombing, but theories are circulating, including one that pins responsibility on al Shabab. It’s also worth noting that this attack occurred in a context of tension between Somaliland and its neighbor, the semi-autonomous region of Puntland, over borders.

A massive flow of immigrants from Ethiopia into Somaliland constitutes another major source of pressure on the region.

Al Jazeera’s pessimism may be warranted, but there are other sides to the story. The dispute between President Dahir Riyale and opposition groups over elections, which turned ugly when Riyale postponed the elections, appeared to reach a breakthrough once parliament approved a new electoral commission in late October. The commission includes the president as well as opposition representatives. ReliefWeb went so far as to call this step a “beacon of hope.”

Finally, a measure of economic growth, at least compared to Somalia’s other regions, may act as a stabilizing force in Somaliland. Saudi Arabia’s recent resumption of livestock trade with Somalia may benefit the whole country, but so far its biggest impact appears to be in Somaliland, where sales have already increased tenfold. The boost for livestock traders is also a boost to Somaliland’s ports and other sectors of the economy. Meanwhile, the New York Times informs us that remittances from Somalis abroad are a crucial source of cash for many Somalis, but have a particular impact in Somaliland, where “the Somali diaspora has contributed money for education, health and other social programs.”

I’m not saying that Somaliland is a capitalist paradise and therefore freedom and democracy will sprout like wildflowers, but it does seem that the measure of political stability that exists is allowing the potential, at least, for economic growth. If those two factors work in tandem, that gives elites a huge incentive to work together to resolve the electoral crisis before it disrupts not only political stability, but economic interests as well.

SOMALILAND’S SEARCH FOR RECOGNITION

On the international front, Somaliland has shown, as one writer observers, remarkable persistence in its efforts to attract recognition from other countries. Much seems to hinge on the African Union’s backing, which may come at some point but not, it appears, any time soon.

However, this month’s visit of a Pakistani delegation to Somaliland may open a new door.

Mr. Abdirasak, Somaliland’s newly appointed representative to Pakistan told local media that the two sides have discussed the opening of a Somaliland representation office in Pakistan, to stregthen bilateral relationship and requested Pakistan to throw its weight behind Somaliland’s bid for international recognition.

Somaliland also appealed to Pakistan to help them gain membership in the Organisation of the Islamic Conference (OIC), which is the second largest inter-governmental organization after the United Nations with 57 member states spread over four continents.

Local media also reported that Pakistan would assist Somaliland to combat piracy in the region and train it’s small fleet of coastguards.

It is the first visit of such by Pakistani officials to Somaliland since restoring its nationhood in 1991. Many Somalilanders see the arrival of the Pakistani delegation as a firm step forward in a new relationship between the two nations that will open new doors for Somaliland in the Asian region.

Membership in the OIC sounds like a big deal to me. I wonder if they’ll get it. In the meantime, it looks like more persistence on Somaliland’s part will be needed – and, I imagine, the successful conclusion of the now much-anticipated elections – before a serious change in their international relations occurs.

I moved to Somaliland with my family in the summer of 2006 . We lived there for nearly two years.I saw little difference between things that I heard before. The whole country has a bit improved within three years that I was gone from there. Not everything has changed but still I saw some changes, when I landed at the airport in the capital city called Hargeisa. The airport was quite roomy and the area was surrounded by white gates.

While  I was going to my new home, the taxi passed by the downtown. There were  booths along the streets and  nice buildings that caught first my mind like lightning which were built like classy mosques where their windows were shimmering through my eyes. I gladly wanted to live there, but it was surprise to me what my own home was going to look like.

A view of the downtown - west side from the top of Barwaqo Hotel

Apart from the buildings, people seem normal, courteous and their standard of living was enough good, but they still needed more improvement.There were also the homeless, whom I gave my spare changes, when I sometimes see them begging for money twenty-four seven.

During about two years of life  in there, I realized that Hargeisa is  much more besides for comparing it to other developing countries. Education was not that low and they keep strong hold  for their Islam religion and schools were public and private. Also economy has improved well. And  exactly when looking at the population, I’ve seen that the city is growing very fast and unfortunately too bad that there’s  no functioning government to control the urban planning. People seem to build houses wherever they please and it’s done with on some paved roads too.

I think that my biggest thought from Hargeisa before and compared to now didn’t really match each others. By the way  my life in Hargeisa was awesome in many different ways, I never felt homesick, but I really missed The Solero ice cream in those hot sunny days. And the gorgeous memory was my new friends that I still keep in touch with on the internet.

By  Hibo Mumin

TRANSLATIONS:

1. surround                         =  ympäröidä
   
2. area                                      =  alue
   
3. booth                                  =  koju
   
4. building                            =  rakennus
   
5. standard of living        =  elintaso
   
6. the homeless                 =  kodittomat
   
7. twenty-four seven     =  24 tuntia joka päivä
   
8. much more besides  =  on paljon muutakin
   
9. education                         =  koulutus
10. population                       =  väestö
    

Cheguei a este vídeo seguindo a Chuza! e ó Periódico Diagonal. Pódese ver, tamén en YouTube, o vídeo orixinal (sen subtítulos) producido por Journeyman Pictures.

“Pirates love fish” (with Spanish subtitles)…

There’s lots of news out of Africa to cover, as usual, but one particular piece by the BBC about a money-transfer company which is introducing a debit card to Somaliland, caught my eye. Dahabshiil, a firm with a long history in the horn of Africa, has dreams of creating a cashless society there.

Anyone who lives or has spent a serious amount of time in sub-Saharan Africa, most likely understands what functioning in a cash-driven society entails. For example, there are countries like Tanzania, whose largest monetary denomination is a 10,000 shillingi note, roughly equivalent to about $7.50 US. In Tanzania, many everyday transactions are made in small change, and any major purchases often require large amounts of cash. While there are banks and ATMs in the largest cities, customers must often contend with long lines and machines that are subject to power failures. If you happen to carry a VISA, American Express or other ‘universal credit card,’ you may find few places where you can actually use it, other than high-end hotels, tourist enclaves, and pricey retail outlets.

A child in Harare holds Zimbabwean dollar notes acquired by begging on the streets. In 2008, when this photo was taken, the county’s rate of annual inflation was over 100,000%. (Associated Press)

Then there are countries like Ethiopia, which lack ATM machines altogether, and whose largest denomination, the 100 birr note, is roughly equivalent to $8 US. Not to mention places like Zimbabwe, where rampant inflation has necessitated the use of the black market, with US dollars and South African rands being traded against quickly depreciating Zimbabwe dollars.

So what would a ‘cashless’ society in Africa look like? Would it be possible to create one, with such a dependence on small change and currency, and with such a lack of infrastructure like banks, ATM machines, and businesses which can process card transactions? Would any new attempts to unveil a system of debit and credit cards simply create a similar situation to that of Tanzania: where some people can access cash at a small number of ATMs, but where there are few outlets equipped to actually use credit?

Dahabshiil, Somalia’s largest money transfer company, is currently rolling out an electronic cash system in Hargeisa, the capital of Somaliland. A press release from the website notes,

The General Manager of Dahabshiil Money Transfer, Abdirashid Mohamed Saed said the computer generated Internet based system will allow their customers to obtain debit cards to withdraw funds from Automated Teller Machines.

The ATMs will be placed in secure places such as hotels and business centers. Customers will be able to purchase items with their debit cards.

“We started this project in Hargeisa (Somaliland) because of the stability and the good internet connections but we’ll spread it to other safer areas of the country,” Saed told VOA Somali Service.

It will be the first time in the history that e-cash card system is launched in Somalia.

Dahabshiil made their mark in the private money transfer business in Somalia. Relatives and friends of Somalis who live abroad, use the service to send money home. The BBC observes that some estimates place the transactions at as much as $1 billion.

I’m personally thrilled to see a debit card system being offered in Somaliland. I hope that the user fees are fair and reasonable, and that many people will have access to this service, not just elites. While the prospect of ATMs placed at hotels and business centers for security reasons makes sense, this restricted access, will likely keep services out of the hands of many people who could benefit from the machines, and who don’t have the extra money or confidence to travel to a wealthy enclave to access cash. Just a thought. Also, as long as access to ATMs and credit processing machines is limited, it will be difficult for Somalis to truly benefit from these cards in a substantial way. But as with any new technology, it will takes time for it to infiltrate society. Hopefully, Dahabshiil will be able to promote access to debit and credit cards as well as places equipped to process them.

All currency calculations are via The Currency Converter at coinmill.com

What do you think?

Introduction
Show children class of water than ask them what the concept and the answer they have about water and what we use it.

Objective

• By end of the lesson children will learn
• For what we use water
• From where we get water
• Important of water
• How we should water

I chose this lesson when I realize that child should know the important of water of water for live thing and how school I we share it .

Implementation and result

After I explain the lesson for the class and give them more information about water and from where we get water and also for what we use water, and the different between the sea water and the other water.

Than I divided the class in to two group than I asked them question every one in each group started to give me different answers basic in what they understand from the lesson also they to other classes advices that will be useful.

Integrating the lesson with I C T

Children are expected to use I c t to develop skills across the areas of learning for example talking ward process or to develop language and communication and vocabulary and writing and also build the imagination of child , I used to show the class the ENO lesson which give idea about how to share the water and to care for it.

Here are some of children’s feed back

-water is magnificent thing
-we love water and admire our lakes and rivers
-sea water is not clean it is very salty

“My mother told me that three quarter of our weight is water even in our brain. My name is Anwaar and I am 4 years old”.

“Water is very useful thing because without water human being animals and plants can’t grow well. My name is Abdi Alqani”.

Water help us in washing our hand our bodies without water we can not clean our cloths.

Water most be taken care for.

We can save our water for future generation in many ways without reducing our comfort of life.

“Enjoy water but do not waste it” My name is Abdi Al Baasid

In the end of the lesson I reward a certificate for those how clean their hand every they use water cause we use water to clean our hand.

On the 29 October 2008 the presidential palace (UNDP) compound in Hargeisa. The Ethiopian Embassy were bombed.

The president of Somaliland to day participated in a morning ceremony held in Hargeisa. The president sends his condolences and sympathies to the families of those innocent people killed and affected by these heinous attacks. The president condemned those nonsense bombings and stated that every thing will be done to fight against the terrorists and who who were responsible for the attacks.

I (Emma) and the rest of the group in Stockholm College feel deep sympathy with the children Huda and Hana Dahir with mother, rest of family and friends. We will do our best to support and feel with you. We also feel sympathy with all victims.

We are very happy and grateful for our cooperation in teacher training. I want to say extra much thank you to teachers, parents and children. Your examples show collaborative and creative examples in learning.

I am very proud over all those examples that we can show from our cooperation, local and global! Thank you so much.

/Emma, Xarbi and Kalle

Source: BBC NEWS
By Mary Harper

Militia groups are accused of trying to brainwash the young

People in Merca said al-Shabaab militia patrolled the town with loudspeakers, demanding they attend the executions.
The militants also ordered schools to close for the day as they were keen for children to watch the two men being shot dead by a firing squad.
Most of those at the execution, on a patch of open ground, are reported to have been women and children.
It is becoming something of a pattern for al-Shabaab to encourage young people to engage in violence.
It recently organised a quiz for young men in the southern town of Kismayo.
The prizes included AK-47 assault rifles, hand grenades and anti-tank mines.
The aim, said al-Shabaab, was to stop young men from wasting time, and to focus on important things like defending their territory and their religion.
At the prize-giving ceremony, which was attended by hundreds of people, the militants urged parents to teach their children to handle weapons at an early age.
Somali children’s rights groups say al-Shabaab is intent on brainwashing the young to believe in violent Islamism.
In this way, it can ensure it has a steady supply of recruits, ready to fight for its aim of establishing extreme Islamist rule, not only in Somalia but far beyond its borders.

en a much tastier “big apple”

watch, new york! there’s many tings you can learn….

no homo!

St. Petersburg, Fla. — The Canadian Press Published on Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009 12:08PM EDT

Toronto will host the World Pride event in 2014 after winning a vote among gay delegates at the international InterPride Conference in Florida.

I’LL STOP FUCKING SISTAS WHEN YOU STOP SLEEPING WITH RIGHT WING “CHRISTIAN” FUNDAMENTALISTS!

to the rest of the world.

did you hear the latest?

the bomb that went off at that mosque, in Pakistan earlier this morning?

en a couple of days ago… that anti homosexuality bill, the one that was coming for many moons now,

 that got tabled in the parliament of Uganda, on Wednesday October 14^th.  Have you heard about Bill 18?

we’d like to get your feedback.

I uploaded the bill onto the a is for pages….read it (again)

and no! spammers, or anyone confused by the brashness and vulgarity….this post does not depict (live) sex acts or images.

(although I wish it did, I would really rather be watching good porn than writing about how my sistren and bredrin have had a witch hunt called on them, this persecution is not new. but it’s enough of it already. time’s up! as another warrior sista said)

Wathint abafazi!
Wathint` imbokodo uzo kufa!

read the lines of the bill, and, then read between the lines. Who wrote those words? What is the context? what are the real issues at play?

Feefifofum, wethinks we smell a U.S fundamentalist Christian. They are after all one of the most likely suspects.

We propose that Family Life Network issues an official retraction to Obama en the people of Uganda, because they are the ones that have paid for this bill. these are their ideologies. take your “foreign”-ness, en we don’t want your money.

it is  YOU PEOPLE,  who are the PROBLEM.

Do you remember that anti-gay conference from March 5-8 that they organised? do you remember all that backlash, en the subsequent arrests and death(s)? Do you remember George/ina? and do you remember when Burundi introduced similar laws? It was jus’ a few moons ago……..google it…we propose a class action suit by all queers & trannies in the States against the Family Life Network. they are the ones that masterminded this bill. that is their brand of christianity.

George/ina was not just a harbinger of the heightened backlash to queer/trans organising, but a symptom en consequence of the unsupportive climate for queer/trans rights. Google the stories. There are many more incidents we can share with you…..

 about the assaults en murders of queer & trans people in East Afrika. unfortunately, many of those very people who’ve been abused are also, often, too scared of the backlash, to advocate for our full human rights. it’s a vicious cycle.

This time it’d be much worse, in my view this is the ”white” ages, the Victorian & McCarthy era all rolled into one dali-esque nightmare of extreme wight wing ideologies. the logical extension of imperialist ideology.

 because, this time,  even activists will lose the precious few rights we have to advocate en organise for queer/trans rights.  This shit is for real……..

There will be more imposed silence. And the people who can, will run away.

En there’ll be many more who’ll stay…..en then what?

At some point we have to question how long we can sanction state sponsored homophobia. en we have to address the big elephant in the room. neo-colonialism…….

we propose that this is one of those times when the (divided) LEFT in Ifrica, and throughout the diaspora, should have a massive orgy. seriously! and we’ll refute the bill based on just one argument. that these laws are not our own. and those identities they explicate are not indigenous. we have the evidence. we have U people. and, most importantly, we have the TRUTH.

OUR bias should be made clear. i’m writing with the assumption that we’re organising in solidarity with the queer/trans activists and communities of Uganda. I would like to pretend that this is all a hoax. a really bad joke. but that’s the shit folks.

we ain’t gonna agonise too much though, been getting organised for a long time now…..soobax

en there’s many of us people…

and we’re not going to tolerate complacency en wilful ignorance, anymore…..

This post is in protest of Bill 18.

These views are (not)  my own.

these words are not supposed to be taken as endorsed by wordpress or any organisation in particular.

that should be a given.

but I warn you, there are many people behind these words.

(there are many sistas en brothas working on solidarity.

why jus’ yesterday a group of (mostly) sistas,  talked and organised in response to this very bill.

This post is jus’ a prelude to a sustained campaign….a check in, a call to arms)

Wathint abafazi!
Wathint` imbokodo uzo kufa!

that is what we have to say in response to your dividing and oppressive tactics

 we will not stand for this blatant violation of all our rights.

the bill has WESTERN. CONSTRUCTION. Emblazoned.

The arguments are imported.

paid for en sealed with the blood of our people.

the origins of those (very/specific)  laws you’re upholding are imperialist.

Infact the mama of these sodomy laws,

first tried out, (as a colonial/imperialist project) by the British in India,

jus got repealed a few days after it was official that Uganda was working on tabling this very bill.

Thursday July 2nd.

that’s a fact.

dear bahati,

your weak arguments wouldn’t hold up in any (true) court of law.

your claims are bogus.

your intentions are dubious.

and that private members bill is

again, in full violation of  (global) human rights,

en, of our rights as Afrikan ctizens.

it’s simple as that.

we’re just ordinary people, and you’re using all a dis “foreign” terms to describe us.

homosexual? yes, i know many. but i’m not one. i still want the right to promote OUR rights.

lesbian? not for me anymore. but I don’t want you to tell people to (curative) rape en murder my sistas.

bisexual?  that’s SOOO GAY!

get over the binaries already. I am (much more than) a  wo/m/yn.

i prefer two spirited. or try mukhanatun, khanith or sangoma.

to each one their own, and we’re  adamant about all our rights in this “rainbow soup” of identities.

and bahati, while you’re on that pot of poison you’re cooking for  LGB,  let us also introduce you to T & I…

I know you don’t much like their transgressions either, let’s burn en kill us all

because..tell us bahati, who told you all these facts about US? who told you so?

we don’t need another stonewall. leave that to “a people’s hirstory of the U.S”

what we need is to stop being exploited in this fight for power.

we need to reclaim our (indigenous) afrikan identities. need to know our true cultures.

because we are INDIGENus. and this ‘ting we do’ is not new.

it is also true that we need allies.

we need you (en I).

we’re recruiting…(sistas in solidarity, en, brothas in solidarity, protesting this anti-homosexuality bill on the grounds of afrikan liberation.)

big brother.

Obama..

you jus’  waxed poetically political about LGBT  rights at the fundraiser gala dinner hosted by the Human Rights Campaign.

Saturday October 11.

that’s a fact. 

dear obama, i throw you the challenge. pay attention.

we are U people.

you know…..Kogello is historically connected with Uganda. all us Afrikans are.

you should do something more about your apparent support for queer/trans rights.

here’s something else to add on to your list……publicly denounce Bill 18! and demand an apology from Family Life Network.

we’re taking them to task in their meddling and corruption of our affairs.

we want them banned from Uganda.

here, some thing else for you add to that list, another chance

to actually do something (more) to deserve that prize.

this one won’t even take that much.

en it’s your country’s mess too. it is  OUR  problem.

 as it’s American citizens who were involved in organising that anti-gay conference in March, actually they were instrumental in it’s convening. It’s public knowledge.

you need to speak truth to power. and actually do something about some of your promises. but we ain’t gonna hold our breath.

En  we’re not going to wait for our sistren en bredrin to die in response.

And  we really don’t want to be fighting you. 

our fight is not (just) with our people, it is with all oppressors.

In our opinion, in this, as with many other, matter/s, QPOC must unite.

Afrika must unite!

For you see we got our enemies confused, en we’re distracted en scattered.

that’s all we’re saying.

But wait, there’s the hope to express (still)

we wish parliament instead would table a bill on criminalising capitalism and neo colonialism with such conviction and ease.

know thy self. en know thine enemy.

WE are (not) the problem.

This post is in solidarity with the peoples of Uganda, in solidarity with queer/trans Afrikans everywhere.

This post is the logical response to a neo-colonial regime that takes on western constructions of homophobia in the persecution of it’s own people.

IT’S BEEN SAID BEFORE,

en it’s worth repeating….

(it’s important to speak truth. to power)

we  will be the one of the first to agree that…. 

these identities, homosexual, lesbian, bisexual, sodomite, transsexual, transgender….those are all just (considered) english words, birthed in particular contexts.

lesbian is just another word for  that island of lesbos. the poet sappho.

en, queer, is just reclaimed language. transformed through time with imperialism, globalisation en resistance.

 those are terms we’ve used to describe ourselves, and that have been thrust upon us

All identities carry political meaning. They are provisional.

And they’re being used in deadly ways in this bill.

Read through all the words, and you got (say it with us now),

 the western construction of homophobia.

that’s the (bigger) point and we’re sticking with it.

It’s illogical, to use the (very) western constructs that shape your understanding  of the abominations and perversions inherent in “homosexuality”,  to uphold the official insistence that WE are alien to our lands.

which is it? the foreign presumption of our need to be wiped out from existence, or our (apparent) non-existence in continental afrikan discourse? (en the intense modern need to therefore safeguard the peace of “straight” people. your position, dear bahati, is ultimately contradictory. and that is also a fact.

we know this.  I/we exist. en therefore….

I/we know many others who do too….

and we know that, to put it concisely, this  bill is  nothing more than bull shit.

We are working on zero tolerance for such corruption, lies, en blatant exploitation of our precious resources.

I/we can say that, because I/we are not in Uganda.

And I/we are  saying it, as queer/trans Afrikan activists, and  QPOC IN SOLIDARITY.

because I/WE are worried about the consequences for comrades en family of ours.

those in kampala and throughout Uganda.

because that is ME, that you are targeting.

 but it’s not, because I was one of those who ran away.

I had to….for my own safety, survival and wellbeing.

This protest is personal as our lives and work. 

we’re worried about the ripple effect for queer/trans Afrikans on the continent.

in the diaspora(s)…

 we are organising ourselves,

in the spirit of working on our own unity first.

 because if we don’t take up this fight,

who will?

so I’ll  pass some ideas that sistas gave me yesterday..there are many things we can do…

learn more about the situation. Talk about it with others. Talk to your mp. Write to Harper. Jack Layton. Michael Ignatieff. Get on radio. Write those op-eds on your blog, to theToronto Star, to Now…..do something more…

Roll those boycotts. Ban all Ugandan officials from travelling to Canada. And expedite the process for Ugandan refuges, if the worst happens. Get Egale to officially pay for all a dis, and have queer/trans afrikans in Canda lead the campaign. Work in solidarity with groups in Uganda.

(The official contacts in Uganda are SMUG &  Freedom & Roam Uganda. The numbers are in the previous post)

Start where you are.

en for our comrades en allies…stay tuned for the launch of the pan-afrikan (queer/trans) activist listserv.

We’ll continue building solidarity in more focused spaces. And we’ll work on sharing resources.

 Because it’s not just about this bill.

the bigger point is to re/build healthy, loving, sustaining and sustainable communities.

Afrika Huru!

It’s not a secret. Spread the word. We’re recruiting.

We’re working on our own petitions, and we’re planning ahead…

We’re  

SISTAS.in.SOLIDARITY.

(another name for the working group) 

with Uganda. and all (u) afrikan people

Berbera era tudo o que precisavamos, um pouco de tranquilidade. Fomos ate o hotel indicado. Um hotel muculmano, com sua sala de oracoes bem no meio, e ala separada para homens e mulheres. Hotel simples, mas impecavelmente limpo, a um preco de 2,5 usd por dia. Quando perguntamos se tinha banho quente, o recepcionista respondeu que sim, mas meio sem jeito. Depois fomos descobrir que a agua é temperatura ambiente, ou seja, a agua fria mais quente do mundo. Mesmo de manha ja está quente.

Ja estava escurecendo, mas aqui nao tivemos nem um problema em sair de noite. Pessoas nos cumprimentavam, eram simpaticas. Passei numa farmacia pois tava com um pouco de febre e foi super bem atendido por um Dr que fez questao de passar todo seu historico escolar na Europa. Mesmo eu tomando 5 litros de agua por dia eu estava um pouco desidratado. Pegamos a dica de um bom restaurante e saimos para procurar. Nao achavamos e ao pedir informacao, um moleque nos levou umas 10 quadras ate o restaurante. Oferecemos uma coca, e ele disse que nao precisava. Ainda perguntou se queriamos que ele fosse nos buscar. Me digam aonde existe algo assim? Inacreditavel!!

O restaurante era na beira do Mar Vermelho, mas na parte do porto. Tinha um peixe gostoso, mas as porcoes eram pequenas. Bem, a coca e a agua tavam bem geladas! De la caminhamos pelas ruas pouco iluminadas perto do porto. Passamos por pelo menos umas 15 mesquitas. Ao chegar na rua principal, vimos alguns camelos descansando tranquilamente debaixo de um poste. Que astral este lugar!!

Cha e bate papo

Acucar Brasileiro

Faz tanto calor aqui, que acordei cedo e nao consegui dormir. Tomei meu banho quente e saimos. Nao demoramos muito para achar um lugar que servia cha. O cha aqui e com bastante leite, e poe outras coisas junto. Juntou de gente, e o lugar virou uma grande sala de reunioes, ou de entrevista. No canto tinha uma tv a cabo, com diversos canais. Ficamos conversando por um bom tempo, e as 9 da manha ja estavamos pingando de suor. Interessante que chegavam, deixavam a sandalha de lado para lavarem e sentavam. Andamos ate perto do porto para descobrir mais informacoes sobre a viagem para o Dibouti. Nao consegui meu visto para o Yemem, entao teria que ir para o Djibouti antes. A embaixada do Yemem solicitou uma carta da Embaixada brasileira, coisa que o Embaixador Renato Xavier providenciou rapidamente (alem de me dar dicas de viagem no Yemen). Acontece que quando voltei na embaixada depois do circuito historico, estava fechada por uma semana devido ao final do Ramadam. Bem, procuramos caminhoes, tentamos entrar no porto para ver se tinham barcos e nada. Tava cada vez mais abafado, insuportavel. Resolvemos ir para uma praia logo no final da cidade, onde estao construindo um hotel resort. Nossa, que diferenca. La tinha ate uma brisa, que apesar de quente refrescava. Fomos tomar o nosso merecido banho de mar. A praia inteira so para nos. Fiquei curtindo sozinho, afastado do Guru e Michael. Olhava aquela preia, as montanhas inclinadas ao fundo, e passava imagens tipo slide show dos ultimos 5 meses e meio. Fiquei mais de 2 horas na agua, que estava com uma temperatura de 32 graus. Ainda apareceu um pessoal que comecou a jogar bola. Um cara com seu traje tipico Islam veio falar com a gente. Ele falou que a Somalilandia nao gostava de turistas e blablabla. Pior que sabia nosso hotel, e parecia estar hospedado la. Bem, como nao tinha muito o que fazer fomos conversando. Perguntamos se lia o Corao, e ele disse que sim, alem de orar 5 vezes ao dia. Perguntamos sobre as passagens de Maome sobre o Rei Cristao de axum, sobre Maome falar que estranjeiros em terras islamicas deveriam ser tratados bem… Ele sabia tudo, e nos contava. As religioes sao boas, o que estraga e o homem. Acho que ele foi lembrando das palavras de Maome e foi amolecendo. No final ate jogamos bola juntos, sob um sol de 42 graus.

Mar Vermelho com uma praia so para mim

Voltamos para o hotel e chegou o Steve, Ingles que divide seu tempo entre a Inglaterra e a Somalilandia. E o unico estrangeiro que vive aqui. Esta ensinando a guarda costeira a mergulhar e montou sua base de mergulho no hotel para algum turista que aparecer. Ele mesmo confirmou que nao ganha dinheiro com o turismo, que é mais hobby. Cobra 20 usd, o que deve ser o mergulho mais barato do mundo. Marcamos para mergulhar no dia seguinte.

Conversamos bastante sobre a situacao do pais, sobre o passado, perspectivas. Ele escreve para diversos jornais e revistas da europa e USA sobre a situacao politica da regiao. Conhece todo mundo do governo, e ja sabia que estavamos em Berbera pois a inteligencia da policia ligou para ele perguntando se sabia quem eramos. Pelo jeito estavamos sendo observados de perto. O Ministro das relacoes Exteriores da Etiopia se hospedou neste hotel, e quando voltavamos para a cidade vimos uma cena de filme. Ele sentado tomando um refrigerante e varios soldados sentados em cadeiras de plastico virados de costas para o ministro. Ele veio intermediar os problemas ocorridos a 10 dias atras (golpe de estado ou protesto resultando em mortes). Demos mais umas voltas na cidade antes de voltar para o hotel. De dia as ruas ficam vazias pois e muito quente, entao ficam mascando qat na sombra. De noite saem, mas ja nao se entendem muito bem…hehe

Berbera

Depois de um rapido cha e algumas frutas, fomos encontrar com o Steve para mergulhar. Como o Guru nao tem certificacao, o lugar foi bem basico, e ficou devendo um pouco, afinal de contes estava no Mar Varmelho!!! O fato de um pequeno peixe leao vir para cima de mim, tentando me intimidar ja valeu!!hehe e tinha uns restos de neufragio tambem.

Depois de curtir a praia voltamos para a cidade para tentar agilizar a viagem para o Djibouti. Todos aconselhavam voar ou retornar a Hargeisa e de la ir para a fronteira, mas nos queriamos ir de Berbera para a Fronteira. Perguntavamos para varias pessoas na rua, e conhecemos um jornalista que nos ajudou um monte, alem de nos entrevistar. Ele acha que ta cedo para publicar algo sobre turismo, mas pelo menos ja tem alguma informacao. Conhecemos um SR no hotel que trabalhava no governo, e tinha bastante contatos. Fomos ate a policia de circulacao, para ver se tinha alguem indo pela “estrada” que queriamos. Ficaram de retornar. Passamos na quadra esportiva que estava lotada, cheia de atividades. Logo encontramos aquele muculmano que tentou nos intimidar. Ele estava todo simpatico, e nos levou na rapida internet e depois para tomar leite de camelo (bem ruinzinho). Quando souberam que voltariamos para o hotel para jantar com o Steve fizeram questao em nos levar. Fomos escutando o alcorao em arabe. Ele falou que era para nos informarmos sobre o Islamismo e prometeu ler sobre outras religioes. A criatura mudou da agua para o vinho!!

Jantamos com o Steave e 3 Chineses que moram em Addis e voaram para o final de semana aqui. Adoraram nossas historias de viagens. O Jornalista ligou confirmando que seu amigo aceitou a contraproposta que fizemos para uma pick up nos levar pelo deserto. Passaram para nos buscar e acertar detalhes do dia seguinte.

Seguiriamos pela costa, por uma “estrada” pouco utilizada. Passaram para nos buscar bem cedo, e o carro era uma Land Cruisar descente. Tinhamos solicitado um grarda pois ja tinhamoo aprendido que era um super custo beneficio. Ao sair da cidade, o motorista errou o caminho e foi sentido ao final do porto. Quando fi estava o soldado abanando sua boina desesperadamente pala janela e alguem apontando um lanca foguete para nos. Ops, acho que era area militar!!

A estrada era um verdadeiro areiao, deserto para os dois lados e aquela vista para o Mar Vermelho. Sempre passavamos por cabras e camelos e seus devidos donos. Quando tinhamos rodado uns 60 km encalhamos pela primeira vez. Foi quando descobri que nao tinhamos nenhum equipamento, nem os mais basicos como pá, corrente… Tivemos que cavar na mao, sob um sol de 40 graus. Tentavamos de tudo mas nao adiantava. Depois de umas 3 horas finalmente conseguimos. Ja estava claro que nao fariamos a viagem num so dia, nem perto das 15 horas que estimamos. O carro encalhou mais algumas vezes, parecia Camel Trophy, mas fomos nos virando. Depois de um tempo encalhou de novo, desta vez nem se mexia. Tentamos um pouco mas ja nos largamos exaustos embaixo de alguns arbustos. Agora era torcer que alguem passasse. Demoraram algumas horas, mas passou um caminhao no sentido contrario que nos ajudou, claro que sem cobrar nada, so para praticar o bem. No meio de toda esta historia ainda acabou furando um pneu, portanto sem estepe!

Deserto entre Somalilandia e Djibouti

Buscavamos nao usar a trilha, mas a parte de pedra ao lado. Ate que funcionava, mas a atencao por buracos e relevo tinha que ser redobrada. Paramos para almocar num pequeno vilarejo e nem preciso comenter o espanto do pessoal. Aqui o acucar brasileiro e mais famoso que o futebol, e um saco era utilizado para fechar a janela. Em Berbera ja tinha visto que para eles acucar e sinonimo de Brasil.

Mais um pneu que se foi...

Mais km rodados, de lugares intocaveis, mais vezes encalhamos, mas sempre conseguindo nos virar, ate que no final da tarde, com uma lua cheia saindo, foi mais uma “daquelas vezes”. Nem tentamos nada. Simplesmente tiramos algumas esteiras de palha, e nos largamos ao lado do carro mesmo. Como nao tinha o que fazer, resolvemos descancar. Um tempo depois apareceu uma pessoa de uma vila nao muito distante. Ele carregava uma pa e trouxe cha para nos. Trabalhou duro, tentando tirar o carro, mas foi em vao. Eu queria dormir mas quando via aquele guarda dormindo abracado com a metralhadora so conseguia era rir.

Boa Noite!

Algumas horas depois passa outro caminhao para nos salvar. Conseguimos ir ate a vila (meia dizia de casas) e tivemos que insistir muito para pagar o jantar para o cara que trabalhou por horas cavando. Ele dizia que era um prazer… Eu torcia que fosse churrasco de camelo, mas era de bode. Andamos mais um pouco depois do jantar e dormimos no meio do deserto. Dia seguinte de muita viagem, mas um pouco mais tranquilo, mesmo com mais pneus furados. Curtimos a paisagem e os lugares, ate finalmente chegarmos na fronteira. Tivemos que esperar um tempo, pois estava fechada e so abriria as 4 da tarde.

Na imigracao foram super gente boa. Ficava me questionando como o povo ocidental e ignorante quanto aos muculmanos. Quando se fala em muculmano muitas pessoas confundem raca, com religiao com politica.

Arabe nao e sinonimo de muculmano, pois existem arabes cristaos. O maior pais muculmano do mundo é a Indonesia, que nao e Arabe. Muitos costumes atribuidos ao Islamismo sao regionais, tribais, e nao religiosos. O Iram tambem e muculmano, mas e Perca e nao Arabe. O Iran e uma republica Islamica e nao reconhece Israel como estado, prega a destruicao de Israel. Ao mesmo tempo existem judeus que vivem no Iran, em paz, sem serem incomodados. Religiao, ou o proprio Deus, e sempre bom, que estraga sao os humanos…

FREE SOMALILAND!!!

The Guardian discusses women’s roles in Africa’s wars.

On a more upbeat note, VOA profiles a nonprofit that works with female entrepreneurs in Mauritania.

International Crisis Group expresses concern about Nigeria’s 2011 elections.

General Kip Ward discusses AFRICOM.

IPS reports on the drive toward universal primary education in Senegal.

An end to the electoral crisis in Somaliland?

A six-point agreement was signed on Thursday by Somaliland President Dahir Riyale, on behalf of the ruling UDUB party, and Mr. Ahmed Mohamed Silanyo and Mr. Faisal Ali Warabe, on behalf of Kulmiye and UCID opposition parties, respectively[...]

The six-point agreement includes a clause prohibiting the Riyale administration from “a term extension without consulting” opposition parties. Another clause calls for international experts to be sent to Hargeisa to complete the computerized voter-registration system.

The presidential election, scheduled for September 29 but cancelled, will be held exactly one month after the international experts say they can complete the voter-registration system, according to the new agreement.

A clause that strengthens the opposition’s political cards calls for the Somaliland election commission to be replaced. It was the election commission, pressured by the Riyale administration, that cancelled September’s presidential election, thereafter deepening the political crisis and sparking deadly riots in Hargeisa.

It is the first time foreign diplomats have mediated among Somaliland’s political rivals, with [UK Deputy Ambassador to Ethiopia John] Marshal signing as a witness on behalf of the international community.

President Riyale, who was elected in 2003, has managed to stay in power by two term-extensions approved by the House of Guurti. His closest challenger, Mr. Silanyo, lost the 2003 presidential election to Riyale with less than 90 votes.

What are you reading?

“Viajar é descobrir que todo mundo está errado sobre os outros países.” (Aldous Huxley)

Desde 1991, com a gerra civil na Somalia, nao existe mais so o pais Somalia, mais 3 paises. Somalia (onde vemos a guerra na TV), Puntland (onde estao os piratas) e Somaliland (onde ha paz). Antes da independencia , eram colonias distintas, a Somalilandia dominada pela Inglaterra e as outras pela Italia. Para conquistar a independencia (anos 60) se uniram num so pais. A capital  da Somalilandia, Hargeisa, foi severamente bombardeada pelos somalis (anos 90), mas conseguiram a independencia e veem se desenvolvendo com o passar dos anos. Parece uma super historia de sucesso nao? Um pais que do caos hoje tem eleicoes presidenciais populares com 3 partidos (raridade para a Africa), 4 empresas aereas privadas (o Brasil com todo seu tamanho tem quantas?), diversas empresas de celular (Etiopia so tem uma) . Seguranca? Uma das cidades mais seguras da Africa. Nao existe crime contra o cidadao comum, nao existe roubo, assalto, etc. Um pais destes tinha que entrar no meu roteiro. Um grande problema. Nao é reconhecido por nenhum pais, entao na verdade é uma terra de ninguem.

Como nao tinha nada planejado quando sai, e ficava “la em cima”, deixei para ver pelo caminho como estaria a situacao.  Nestes quase 6 meses encontrei um Ingles e um Polones que tinham ido para la e so falaram coisas boas. Pronto, estava confirmado. Em Madagascar soube atraves dos japoneses que um amigo deles foi do porto de Berbera (Somalilandia) para o Yemen num navio que transportava gado. Era um plano inicial. Quando falei para o Guru que iria ele topou na hora. O Michael, que tambem passou a viajar com a gente, achou que seria uma oportunidade unica, pois ele nunca iria para la sozinho, ainda mais com passaporte americano.

O visto tirei logo que cheguei na Etiopia. Como nao é um pais reconhecido eles nao tem embaixada e sim um Liaison Office. Um escritorio de relacionamento. O visto ficou pronto em 5 minutos. Mas como ainda iamos viajar pela Etiopia, e o visto tinha validade de um mes daquele dia, tivemos que falar com o “consul” que nos ajudou prontamente, deu varias dicas e conversamos muito tempo. Pegamos o cartao dele com contatos de amigos na Somalilandia. Quando voltamos do circuito historico, corremos para la para o Michael tirar o visto dele. Era uma sexta, tava fechado, e queriamos pegar o onibus de domingo para Harar e depois seguir para Somalilandia. A solucao foi pedir para o seguranca ligar para o “Consul” que 15 minutos depois chegou, abriu o escritorio e emetio o visto. Ainda brincou que se soubesse que erqmos nos teria vindo antes. Muito gente boa!

A fronteira e feia, muito suja, cheia de plastico.  C hegando no lado da Somalilandia foram super atenciosos. O oficial da imigracao ficou doente quando viu que eu era brasileiro. Falou de todas as ultimas copas, era fa de carteirinha. Falou que eu sou o primeiro brasileiro a passar por esta fronteira. Acho que ele se empolgou um pouco, mas nao devem ter muitos. Passaporte carimbado, agora era so achar transporte ate Hargeisa. Onibus? Nao, nenhum. O transporte aqui sao carros tipo perua, socados de gente. Preco em dolar, o dobro da Etiopia para a mesma quilometragem. Tivemos que trocar de carro porque queriam cobrar a bagagem no primeiro. Vimos que nem todos eram simpaticos quando um cara jogou a mochila do Michael para fora do carro. No segundo carro foi tudo certo e uma senhora retribuiu gentilmente a bolacha que recebeu com uma goiaba. Chegamos em Hargeisa e confesso que achei um caos por tudo que falavam. Claro que evoluiram um monte nestes quase 20 anos, mas a bagunca empera. Uma das primeiras cenas que vi foi um caminhao descarregando madeira. Quando prestei atencao era da chilena Arauco. Nao podia ser! A Arauco era a principal concorrente da empresa que trabalhava, e cheguei ate a ir para o Chile para fazer uma pesquisa dos produtos deles, distribuicao, mercados…

Muita gente na rua, barracas tipo camelô por todos os lados e muita areia cobria o fino asfalto da avenida principal. Para fugir do choque inicial pegamos um bom hotel, o terceiro melhor da capital. La teriamos boas informacoes, e depois descobrimos que nos 12 usd tinha ate cafe da manha e internet nao achamos mais tao caro como no inicio. Deu tempo de largar as coisas e sair pelo centro. Antes tinhamos que trocar dinheiro. Era so escolher uma das caixas de arame espalhadas pela rua ou pilhas de Somaliland Shilings em cima de esteiras. Um usd sao 6500 SS, portanto treze notas de 500, que e a maior que cirgula. O negocio era trocar 10 USD por dia, ou carregar uma mala com dinheiro…haha

Trocando dinheiro

Fomos ate o Memorial de Guerra, praca em que exibem um aviao Mig da forca aerea Somali, que e exibido com orgulho. La juntou gente, muita gente. Todos ja estavam vindo falar conosco antes, mas la eram dezenas de pessoas. Soldados tiveram que dispersar a multidao. Sempre perguntavam o nome, da onde eramos, e se eramos jornalistas!!! Se surpreendiam quando falavamos que eramos turistas e ficavam ainda mais curiosos. Notamos que uma minoria (1 em 20 ° nao gostavam muito, e resmungavam para quem nos dava “moral”). O Michael tambem teve que trocar sua resposta de nacionalidade de americano para canadense rapidinho, pois teve gente que chiou. Em geral uma simpatia nunca vista, nos eramos atracao turistica. Para comprar o SIM para o cel praticamente paramos o escritorio do lugar. Resolvi comprar um jornal local. Algumas das publicacoes sao em ingles. Me surpreendi quando me deparei com a noticia do assassinato de tres pessoas 10 dias antes. O jornal (oposicao) falava que era um protesto, mas depois descobrimos por fontes neutras que foi uma tentativa de golpe de estado. Se o cidadao comum nao sofre nenhum perigo de violencia, a violencia politica ainda faz parte da realidade do pais. Teriamos que redobrar a atencao, mas como em Madagascar, era so ficar longe de manifestacoes publicas (estas foram fora da cidade). Depois de um primeiro dia destes, comemos um pouco antes de escurecer e decidimos nem sair a noite. Conhecemos muitos somalilanders que estudam na Inglaterra, pais que tem voo direto para ca (assim como Dubai, Yemen, Kenia,Etiopia, e logo USA).

Memorial de guerra

Banco!

Avenida principal

Bem cedo eu ja estava acordando com o chamado das mesquitas. Fiquei so na janela, depois na sacada vendo o dia amanhacer, e a cidade movimentar.Todos seguem a risca a regra de rezar 5 vezes ao dia. Pais 100 por cento muculmano. Nao pode bebida alcoolica, se tiver so transportando e cadeia!!! Homens e mulheres sentam em lugares diferentes nos restaurantes, cheio de regras. Queriamos visitar umas pinturas rupestres muito antigas, em excelente estado de conservacao. Para isto teriamos que arrumar um carro, pois os taxis comunitarios so vao de cidade em cidade, e este lugar ficava fora da estrada. No hotel tavam cobrando caro demais e decidimos arranjar um carro na rua. No memorial de guerra tava cheio de taxis e voltamos para la, depois de ter visitado alguns mercados, dentre eles o mercado do ouro. Nao demorou muito ate encher de gente para ver nossa negociacao. Para aliviar entramos dentro do taxi e chegamos num acordo. Tinha uma situacao que nao estava clara ainda. Algumas pessoas falavam que para circular pelo interior do pais precisariamos de escolta armada. Fomos ate a “secretaria de seguranca” e nos foi passado que sim. Quiseram ate increspar sobre nossa viagem pelo interior, quando o cartao do “consul” com telefones escritos a mao fez efeito. Ainda passamos no ministerio do turismo, que fica numa pequena sala dentro do ministerio da pesca (hilario!!). La nos contaram que existe uma super protecao com estrangeiros. Ja nao conseguem reconhecimento, se algo acontecer tudo ficaria ainda pior. A alguns anos alguns somalis entraram escondidos na Somalilandia e assassinaram 3 turistas, e foi um grande problema de relacoes internacionais. Nao tinhamos escolha a nao ser pagar os 10 dolares para o soldado que nos acompanharia.

Hargeisa

Partimos pela estrada Hargeisa-Berbera, e teriamos que pegar uma estrada secundaria para Las Geel. Uma reta so, e a paisagem nao mudava, era deserto dos dois lados. Passamos por um ou outro aglomerados de casas, que nem podemos chamar de cidades. Paramos numa delas para almocar. So tinha macarrao, e so 3 pratos, entao tivemos que dividir. Nem foi dificil pois aqui nao usam talher, entao os pratos ficavam no meio e nos iamos  pegando com a mao. Depois deste lugar pegamos uma “estrada” secundaria.,na verdade nem tem estrada, e so seguir a trilha feita por outro carro. Viamos pequenas formacoes rochosas e algumas cabanas. Muitas cabras e camelos por toda a estrada. Chegamos num check-point onde pediram a papelada que tinhamos acertado no Ministerio do Turismo. Uma pessoa seguiu com a gente para mostrar o lugar. Paramos numa casa, que possuia alguns cartazes com informacoes das pinturas, que so foram descobertas em 2003. Caminhamos montanha acima e o lugar e fantastico. Sao muitas e muitas pinturas, muio vivas, parecem que forqm pintadas a pouco tempo, e tem mais de 5000 anos. E um lugar que se fosse em outro pais receberia milhares de visitas, e nos ali, sozinhos, explorando, curtindo o lugar e a bela vista. Valeu super a pena.

Pinturas Rupestras

Isto tem que virar um Parque Nacional

Vista da caverna

Em vez de retornar para Hargeisa, seguimos a estrada, sentido Barbera, pois tinhamos combinado desta forma. O soldado ja mascava chat a horas e provavelmente nao estaria apto para nos defender. De qualque forma sua presenca foi de grande importancia pois nao pediram o nosso passaporte nem uma vez, bem diferente de quando estavamos sozinhos, que era toda hora.

Nao e treinamento Taliban, e so escolta armada pela Somalilandia!

Tava quente, muito quente e so parecia que piorava. Tinham nos falado que Berbera era insuportavelmente quente. A paisagem mudou um pouco, com a presenca de umas montanhas. Pudemos ate ver um ou outro animal selvagem. A qualidade do asfalto foi piorando, e buracos ficaram mais frequentes.

Chegamos em Berbera no final de tarde. Como e a segunda maior cidade imaginavamos um grande movimento, mas ao contrario de Hargeisa, a cidade tava quase parada, com poucas pessoas na rua. De cara nos identificamos mais com este lugar.