Standing Stone:  OS Grid Reference – NF 8117 2248

Also Known as:

• Carragh broin

Archaeology & History

The nature of this site seems a little disputed.  Shown on modern OS-maps and cited as being visited and seen in April 1967,the Canmore website also describes it in the present tense — but when I.A. Crawford (1965) wrote of this site he told that, “this standing stone…has been destroyed in fencing operations” — i.e., building a fence or wall, not some doods having a fencing fight!

Equally curious would be the stature of the site; as in the Royal Commission report (1928), the stone was told to be only 2-feet tall — which would mean that if this site is included as an authentic archaeological site, then we’re gonna have to double or treble the number of standing stone sites nationally!  There are masses of ‘monoliths’ two-feet tall and above which are in the ‘natural’ category.  But this stone, for whatever reason (the folklore probably), has been granted the providence as an authentic standing stone.

Folklore

Tradition told that this old stone was “alleged to mark a battle site” in ancient days.  The variation on this theme tells that the stone marked the grave of a man who was slewn in battle here.  Seems likely that there will be prehistoric tombs nearby…

References:

Crawford, I.A., ‘Carra Bhroin, S.Uist,’ in Discovery & Excavation in Scotland, 1965, SRG & CBA 1965.
Royal Commission on the Ancient & Historical Monuments & Constructions of Scotland, Inventory of Monuments and Constructions in the Outer Hebrides, Skye and the Small Isles, HMSO: Edinburgh 1928.

By Alexander Lawrie

Heritage chiefs are to spend a small fortune on sending a piano tuner to a remote Scottish island – to tune an instrument nobody on the island can play.

The National Trust for Scotland has organised the epic trip to the tiny Hebridean island of Canna where a century old Steinway grand has stood for the last five years since its last owner died.

But not one of the island’s 19 inhabitants can play the piano, it has been revealed.

Tuner William Gray, 78, has been given the task of making the four-hour ferry crossing to tune the island’s concert grand.

The historic instrument was shipped out to Canna in 1938 by Gaelic folklorist Margaret Shaw who died in 2004, aged 101.

One of the best pianos in the world

Mr Gray admits he is looking forward to the trip to Canna House and the chance to work with one of the world’s finest pianos.

He said: “It is a Steinway and still one of the best pianos in the world.

“It is a beauty and it has some history attached to it, and for me that is its real value.”

US-born Miss Shaw was a collector and editor of Gaelic songs as well as a writer, photographer and recorder of Hebridean life.

She learned to play the piano by ear and was later taught to professional level in New York, Paris and London.

After marrying John Lorne Campbell in 1935 the couple made their home in South Uist before buying the island of Canna.

They presented ownership of the island to the National Trust in the early 1980s and Miss Shaw continued to live on the remote island after her husband passed away in 1996.

At her 100th birthday party with the small community she played Strauss waltzes and Uist lullabies.

The BBC recorded a programme, Among Friends, to mark the auspicious occasion.

Magda Sagarzazu, official cataloguer of the records at Canna House, said: “The paino is in good condition and the temperature and moisture of the house are regulated to help its conservation. Insect traps have also been installed to prevent any bugs getting near it.

“It is just nobody here can play it.”

South Uist in the Hebrides

by Tony Grew

A Scottish Nationalist MP tried to secure an emergency debate this afternoon.

The Ministry of Defence has confirmed plans to cut 125 jobs at the Hebrides missile range in South Uist and to control firing operations remotely base in Wales.

Angus MacNeil, the member for Na h-Eileanan an Iar (the Western Isles), wanted the House to give “urgent consideration” to the proposed closure.

He said that at least 120 jobs would be lost if the closure went ahead.

“Unofficial estimates from Highlands and Islands Enterprise effectively double that,” he told MPs.

“South Uist, North Uist and Benbecula cannot cope with that level of cuts.

“In a major city such as Glasgow, that would be the equivalent of 6,000 to 7,000 jobs gone at the stroke of a pen.

“Bad as that may be in a city, for an island community it is infinitely worse; it means depopulation to the next city or employment opportunities that are eight hours away by ferry and vehicular transport.”

Mr MacNeil said that islanders have taken the Hebrides missile range “into their community and accepted and worked with its needs and demands.”

“An entire community has shaped itself to fulfil its needs,” he said.

“A service and sacrifice that entailed forgoing many opportunities, at great opportunity cost to the community.

“The Ministry of Defence, through QinetiQ, cannot walk away leaving chaos and a vacuum behind. There is a social and economic responsibility here.

“Over and above the social and economic responsibility, however, the Hebrides range is simply the best for purpose in missile testing.

“No other range compares to the Hebrides range; it is so large that the curvature of the earth becomes a factor.

“This difficulty is mitigated by the existence of St. Kilda as a monitoring post almost in the middle of the range.

“There is no equivalent in the UK—or in Europe—to Hebrides range.

“Hebrides range is important to the defence of the realm, and also for the defence of Europe, as many other countries use the range for testing.”

Mr MacNeil said plant to close the range 15 years ago were “rightly rejected for many valid reasons.”

MPs can apply an for emergency debate under Standing Order 24.

However, the Speaker said:

“I have listened carefully to what the hon. Member has said, and I have to give my decision without stating any reasons.

“I am afraid that I do not consider the matter he raises to be appropriate for discussion under Standing Order No. 24.

“I cannot therefore submit the application to the House.”

Another very windy day – and they were, of course, major head winds.  Oh great.

Still, on I went.  I got a pretty late start – not sure why, just seemed to be faffing around this morning.  I was aiming for the 1pm ferry across to Barra, so needed to get a move on.

It was tough going already.

I stopped at Cladh Hallan Roundhouses and they had some great interpretation panels there (always a good thing).  It is an interesting site as it is the only place in the UK where prehistoric mummies have ever been found.  There were around 6 or 7 houses in the development and in some of the houses were burials – including the mummies.  Some of the mummies are believed to have died centuries (up to 500 years) before finally being buried in these houses.  One of the mummies was actually even made up of 3 different people! Interesting site and really very important.  South Uist is FULL of archaeological sites – many of which are yet to be excavated.  If the money were available, you could keep many archaeologists busy for life.

Next I wanted to see the wheelhouse at Cille Pheadair – I did not have a good enough map really.  I was hoping there might be a little sign post to it.  I had looked at a 1:25000 map in the hostel and seen it was down a track in the village.  But, of course, there were many tracks!  It’s a shame as it is meant to be very impressive and I had yet to see a wheelhouse.  Oh well – note to self – take detailed maps for looking for this kind of thing!

I got down to the causeway to Eriskay and it was obvious I wouldn’t make the 1pm ferry – so I stopped for lunch.  The causeway is unusual as it has a bridge half way down – to let whales through!  It felt good to leave the Uists – not because they were unattractive, as they are very pretty in parts – but that wind had hurt me.  I was battered and bruised from the hard work over the last couple of days.  But for now, I had another 3.5 hours to look around Eriskay.  So I ate lunch on a lovely little beach and then set off to have a look around the island.  There is a lovely little church (St. Michaels) with a very interesting alter made of a boat.  It was odd having been in so many churches on the islands and then coming into this one.  Rather than the very plain churches of Lewis and Harris, I was now in Roman Catholic country and this church was full of icons and things to buy.  Pretty little church though.

I went into the pub named after the SS Politician – this is the boat that Whisky Galore (the book and film) is based on.  Basically, the boat ran aground in 1941 and spilt part of it’s cargo of many thousands of bottles of whisky.  The locals helped themselves and several of them ended up in jail.  The pub was pretty grim though.

Looked around more of the beaches and then headed to the ferry terminal.  There is fresh water and showers at the terminal, so wild camping would be easy on the island.

So the ferry took me away – it’s only a 45 minute crossing to Barra, so hardly time to sit down.

I arrived in Barra and immediatly could see I was going to like this island.  It’s very rugged indeed and there’s not a lot in the middle (big hills), so everything is based around the coast.

I cycled down to Castlebay and checked into the hotel.  I bumped into the german chap again and had a chat with him.  It all seemed fine, but very weird to be in a building again!  I relaxed a while and even watched a bit of the Olympics of TV – first I had seen of it so far!  I then went out to dinner just as the ferry from Oban pulled into port.  On the deck was a huge pipe band playing their bagpipes and drums etc. – I was guessing that this did not happen every time and that they must have been at a competition or whatever – but it was a very moving, marvelous experience to see this ship coming in with the pipe band playing.  Everyone on deck was cheering and clapping when they finished, as were many people in the harbour.  Magic stuff.

I ate at a pub which served really good food – I had my first haggis of the trip!  Felt odd eating out rather than cooking for myself.

After dinner, I wandered around the village.  It’s quite an interesting place with good facilities.  There were a few people camping in the bay – it might be associated with the hostel.  I was also led to believe that there was good camping near the airport as well.  It was quite windy and stormy, but I sat and watched a seal bobbing about between the moored boats in the bay.  Very cute.

Read about day 11 here!

My plan of camping higher up certainly worked with keeping the midges away, but it was a very windy night and I did not sleep that well.  I was woken early with a strong sunrise, but managed to finally get to sleep again and actually slept until about 9 – which is quite late for me on this trip.

I got things packed up and set off into what were already tough headwinds and was making good progress until I hit a traffic jam of sheep being moved into the sheilings to be sheared.  Two guys on quads and a dog moved them down the road.  I didn’t mind one bit as it’s always good to see a good sheep dog working.

Having looped North Uist yesterday, I wanted to try and take a different route down to Clachan (where I could then take the road south and onwards), so I decided to take an unmarked road that seems to be known as The Committee Road.  It did actually have a signpost indicating it was the C83 road – I never knew we had C roads!  It was a great little road through moorland that served no real purpose as there was no community up there.  Getting back onto the main road towards Clachan and the head winds were the strongest I had experienced so far.  Very hard work indeed.

Made it to Clachan and headed onwards.  At Caranish, there is Trinity Temple – another abandoned church and also the site of a large battle in 1601 – Feith Na Fala – The Ditch Of Blood.  By this point it was also raining along with the strong winds – but I looked around the church before heading on.

This next leg took me over the corner of the island of Grimsay – all connected via causeways making it feel like you were flying over the sea and sands.   A few minutes later and I was on another island, Benbecula, and it was not all that pretty.  The area around the airport is dominated by military buildings.  Benbecula is the UK’s missile testing area.  The MOD doesn’t seem to do building in-keeping with the surroundings.  It is quite densely populated around this area as well.  Popped into a very large, but empty feeling Nisa supermarket and stock up with food – especially it being Sunday tomorrow.

The headwinds were really really hurting now – today felt so tough and my legs were suffering.

I reached Nunton Steadings where there is a nice tea room – so felt a little better – but it was only temporary!

Passed a large, washed up cylinder – I did not take a photo as it is now covered in graffiti and a real blot on the landscape – needs to be moved.  But here’s a photo of it when it originally washed u.

I past the campsite at Linacleit and was very tempted to stop as I was shattered – but I wanted to push onto Howmore as they was a bike repair shop there and I wanted to see if I could pick up a new spoke.  But the remaining miles were very very tough.  I did not stop to walk up to the huge statue at Our Lady Of The Isles – I was so shattered.

There is military hardware dotted all over this area to track the missiles etc. – bit of an eyesore.  Sadly there was no activity scheduled this week – would have been great to see a missile launch!

Finally, I reached the hostel at Howmore – again, it was very good with great facilities and good camping.  The hostel warden is the wife of the bike repair man and once I had pitched my tent, I nipped up to see if he was there (sadly, I had seen his van going the other way earlier!).  He wasn’t there, but I was to pop back later and see if he could fix me up.

Howmore is an interesting place with plenty of chapels – there appear to be at least 5 on this site, possibly dating back to the 6th century. I had a wander around the chapels and then went back up to see the man at Am Rothan Cycles -  he was a very nice guy, but sadly he did not have any spokes short enough (because the bike has an Alfine hub gear and quite deep rims).  But he thought if I had managed the past few days okay without it losing much true, then I’d probably be fine.  It’s a shame he couldn’t rescue me – but I have read several accounts of him helping people out and really going above and beyond the call of duty with repairs.

I rode back to the hostel and cooked up some dinner before wandering down to the beach (about 10 minutes walk from the hostel).  Lovely sunset and skies and very enjoyable.

I got back to the tent and realised how much I was enjoying this whole experience.  I was actually not looking forward to spending my next two nights in a hotel.  I had decided to go with a hotel many weeks ago when I was planning the trip – Barra has no official campsites.  But now I had much more experience with camping here, I would have been happy to wildcamp and there were several good sites I had heard about.  I had thought originally, that going into a hotel would feel like a real treat after many nights under canvas, but now it felt like my freedom was going to be taken away.  I did not feel I could really cancel the room, so I guess I will have to see what it’s like with a roof over my head!  And things like TV and other strange things!

Read aboutday 10 here!

Mosquitoes or Midges. Evidence, perhaps not of God but certainly the Devil.

Many Scotsmen came to Savannah. Life must have been very different for them except in one respect. The local sand gnat is the only thing that comes close to approaching the terror induced, like stories of the bogeyman to children: The terror of the midge.

For a creature not much bigger than a pinhead, the midge’s sheer contribution to the volume of humanity’s suffering would exceed a couple of eternities in Dante’s inferno. In small Scottish pubs, large muscular men will stare darkly at their pints and shake their heads before embarking on harrowing descriptions of ‘the night they camped out and found a hole in the tent’ or ‘The time I walked shirtless by the burn.’

As one American remarked ‘come prepared to do battle’

Once, on the isle of South Uist, I asked a local man if the islanders had an effective remedy for midges. He replied. ‘Yes, we stay indoors’. Savannah is the only place where I would consider applying the same remedy