‘I am delighted to have the opportunity to build on our achievements of the last two years with St. JOHN. We have a fantastic team here and I am only thrilled to continue is with Peng through the development of One Leicester Street’  - Tom Harris 

I’m pleased to be bringing the Unlisted Collection: to Soho and Chinatown. We want the bar and restaurant to become a local hub for the neighbourhood as well as our guests.’ - Peng Loh.

One Leicester Street – exterior

With branding by A Practice for Everyday Life and interiors by Universal Design Studio, One Leicester Street will offer guests an intimate 15 room hotel with a 25 seater in  bar bar and  46 covers in the restaurant.  The lobby, with its warm timber desk and soft grey walls, is the transition from the bright lights and buzz of Chinatown outside, to the oasis that is One Leicester Street within.

The Restaurant at One Leicester Street will be headed by Tom Harris, who was previously Head Chef of St John Chinatown, where in 2012 he gained a Michelin star. One Leicester Street will serve breakfast and brunch every day. Offering the very best of British produce, Harris’ daily changing lunch and dinner menu will be presented in such a way as to allow guests to share smaller and larger dishes and step outside the more traditional starter, main course and dessert format.

The design of the space will reflect that of the bar with muted grey walls set against characterful oak parquet flooring. A generous leather banquette flanks one long wall, offering views to the terrace and street beyond. Black ash timber dining chairs are paired with sharp white tablecloths and bespoke designed copper pendant lights that provide sparkle and bathe the space in a soft warm light. A Victorian awning will overhang the terrace extending the restaurant dining room outdoors and offering passers by a place to stop for coffee and ice cream.

Rooms will be soft and warmly lit whilst the intimate bar will have a deep colour palate with deep blues and greys. Offering a full cocktail list and bar food menu from noon until midnight. The Bar at One Leicester Street is perfect for relaxing or holding meetings by day, and a softly lit hideaway destination by night. An oak bar dominates one end of the space and banquette seating wraps the other end, creating an inviting corner. The room is filled with bespoke, generously soft seating and is available for private hire.

“Our aim was to create a brand identity for One Leicester Street whose reach extends beyond a name or logo and permeates through every part of the hotel and restaurant – from details such as the luggage labels and specially-commissioned menu illustrations, to handmade staff uniforms and painted typographic signage on the walls and doors. It has been a pleasure working with Tom Harris and Unlisted Collection: to identify the right collaborators and realise their vision for One Leicester Street, and we have developed the brand through working with talented experts from other disciplines, including interior and spatial designers Universal Design Studio, illustrator Sister Arrow, and clothing brand Comradettes” - A Practice for Everyday Life

Address: 1 Leicester St. London WC2H 7BL

Telephone: 020 3301 8020

Website: www.oneleicesterstreet.com

Facebook: facebook.com/OneLeicesterStreet

Amidst all the flurry of travel eating last year, my beloved London didn’t get much airtime on the blog. Here are some local spots that slipped through the cracks – brace yourself, it’s gonna be a long one!

Judging by the queues snaking out of Bubbledogs there are few left in London who haven’t heard of the 4 month old hot dog and champagne bar. The dogs are great (I am partial to the Breakie with a fried egg, tomato relish and black pudding) but for me the real draw is the extensive list of rare grower champagnes. If standing in line isn’t your thing, book a seat at their Kitchen Table which offers an incredible multi-course dinner eaten on a long counter table surrounding the open kitchen.

A couple of streets from Bubbledogs you’ll find Yaki. Skip the pre-made okonomiyaki that don’t taste particularly authentic and the rice burgers, which although tasty, fall apart in the hand. Instead pop in for a Taiyaki (fish-shaped cake with various fillings) – they’re cute to look at and the one I sampled hot from the cast iron mold was pretty good (stick to the traditional azuki bean filling).

After years bemoaning the lack of ramen bars in the city, we got hit by a tsunami of them in 2012. Having tried all the main players – Tonkotsu, Ittenbari, Shoyru and Bone Daddies – I’d say the latter tops the list with a intensely-flavoured (albeit a tad too thick) broth, chewy strands and wide choice of both toppings and ramen. That said, none come close to the addictive bowls I slurped in the shoebox haunts off the side streets of Tokyo.

Despite the rising popularity of ramen, burgers were still very big news last year with more temporary outfits setting up brick and mortar outlets than ever. Oldtimer MeatLiquor is still a firm favourite (I’ve yet to try their brand-spanking-new contingent in the East), but newbie Patty & Bun is definitely giving them a run for their money with the resplendent Ari Gold.

Another pop-up that took up more permanent digs is Disco Bistro which has moved into the top floor of The Rising Sun pub for the next 6 months. I wasn’t convinced by the lacklustre over-priced lunch I had upstairs, but their trashy bar menu (which hadn’t launched at the time of my visit) does sounds interesting, although not enough to tempt me back.

Talented Ben Spalding (ex-head chef of Roganic) also started a half-year residency at John Salt but within weeks the partnership dissolved and now Neil Rankin (formerly Pitt ‘Cue) holds court. I was lucky enough to try the promising 12-courses before his departure and am glad that he’s slated to open his own place towards the end of this year – fingers crossed the brilliant 35 ingredient salad will find its way on the menu.

Further afield in Dalston, I had some delicious frozen Hibiscus Margaritas and moreish Ginger & Soy Hot Wings at the hip Rita’s Bar & Dining. Their famous Fried Chicken Roll boasted juicy thigh meat coated in a well-seasoned crunchy crust, but the bread roll it was nestled in was rock hard and cried out for more sriracha aioli.

The grilled meats at nearby (but not new) Turkish Ocak Basi restaurant Mangal excited me more. Everything from the Pirzola (seasoned lamb chops) and Adana Kofte (spicy minced lamb kebab) to the Yogurtlu Tavuk Sis (chicken breast with yoghurt and butter sauce) was tender, succulent and grilled to perfection. A meat lovers paradise.

Closer to home, I tried Lebanese joint Beirut Express which also delivered some expertly charcoal-grilled meats, as well as some excellent cold and hot mezza.

Back to a few of the newer openings. Modern Greek Mazi in Notting Hill is a sweet little space with an alfresco area perfect for balmy summer evenings. I loved the jars of Spanakopita, Tarama and Grilled Aubergine but the hot plates were less successful. Feta Tempura with Lemon Marmalade and Caper Meringue was particularly odd – the batter was thick and greasy, and the sweet accompaniments rendered it more of a dessert than a main.

Many are enamoured with Duck & Waffle, perched atop Heron Tower. The panoramic views at the all-day restaurant are indeed magnificent but I had mixed feelings about the food. Tasty sharing plates of Chip Shop Cod Tongues and BBQ-spiced Crispy Pig Ears were fun and an Octopus with Chorizo, Lemon and Capers was stunning, but the Foie Gras “All Day Breakfast” and Bacon wrapped Dates stuffed with Linguica Sausage were both too rich and heavy for my taste.

Not technically new, but it has recently changed head chefs, is Provençale bistro Cassis. Massimiliano Blasone’s (former executive chef of Heinz Beck’s Apsleys) skill shines through in the deftly-plated Southern France-inspired food. The Rum Baba, served with chantilly cream and a choice of three rums, was simply superb.

I’m eagerly awaiting the launch of Isaac McHale’s The Clove Club and am thrilled he’ll be bringing the awesome Buttermilk-fried Chicken in Pine Salt, a mainstay on the Upstairs at Ten Bells menu, with him.

With a similarly laid-back vibe but an airier, brighter space is Elliot’s near Borough Market. I enjoyed fried chicken and various puds there but the best thing by far was their cheeseburger, available only at weekday lunches.

On the higher end of the spectrum is HKK, the latest offering from the Hakkasan group. Refreshing though it was to sample a tasting menu of reworked Cantonese banquet dishes, I felt there was a slight lack of finesse for the level of cuisine the restaurant is trying to achieve. I did however enjoy the majority of the savoury courses and wouldn’t rule out a return trip.

Also swanky, but serving food from a different continent is Il Ristorante at the Bulgari Hotel in Knightsbridge. Decked out in leather and mahogany the dining room feels cold and more like a jewellery showroom – a shame as the contemporary Italian food was quite lovely. Fresh-tasting antipasti, al dente pasta delicately sauced and thoughtfully garnished, and even a number of options specifically marked for the health-conscious which were surprisingly delicious.

One tube stop away The Grill at The Dorchester, in its tartan-clad glory, hinted at a much more traditional menu than it actually serves. Sure there is Black Angus Beef and Grilled Dover Sole but also a thoroughly modern (and very good) starter of Glazed Calves Sweetbreads, Crispy Chicken Wings and Sourdough Bread.

Fellow old-school establishment The Ritz featured well-executed French dishes (some more precisely than others) that were pleasant but didn’t leave much of an impression. The opulent but somewhat tired decor and stiff service didn’t help.

In contrast the minimal St John Hotel in Chinatown immediately sets the diner at ease and the simple, produce-led British fare is always a pleasure. You can’t go wrong with the Devilled Pig’s Skin & Smoked Cod’s Roe, anything offaly (loved the Snails, Duck Hearts & Lovage) and the freshly-baked Madeleines. Doughnuts, when available, are a must.

A less conventional hotel dining experience was the 2-week long Noma pop-up at Claridges during the Olympics. The controversial Ants and Cabbage course sparked much conversation at the table but failed to tantalise our taste buds. Better by far was the whimsical take on afternoon tea (scones with caviar, clotted cream and raspberry tea) and the melt-in-the mouth slow-roasted Romney Marsh neck of lamb.

Properly good Sunday pub roasts can be hard to come by but I was very satisfied by the one crowned with a behemoth yorkshire pud at The Thatched House. Their giant scotch eggs are pretty special too.

Slightly posher brunch venue The Wolseley served up an exemplary Full English, although those hungover may miss the grease of the standard fry-up! I was also impressed with their Cannelés Bordelais – gorgeous caramelised crust, moist centre and a snip at £1.75 for a pair!

I can’t get through a fortnight without a dim sum fix, and Dragon Palace in Earl’s Court is a worthy weekend yum cha venue. All the dumplings we tried tasted freshly-made; turnip cake had good flavour and texture, as did the pan-fried cheung fun. Admittedly their xiao long bao and fried squid cakes weren’t up to par, but all was forgiven after a spoonful of homemade Tofu Fa – a silky beancurd dessert with ginger syrup that is hard to come by here in London.

I’ve long been wary of the restaurants in Chinatown but new discovery Old Town 97 plates up the best Braised Beef Brisket and Tendon Noodles I’ve had in London. The handful of other cooked dishes I tried were good too – added bonus, its cheap and open till late.

A stone’s throw away at Quo Vadis the much-talked-about Smoked Eel and Horseradish Sandwich lived up to its reputation. Everything else for me however was just so-so, unsurprising I guess as I wasn’t a massive fan of Jeremy Lee’s cooking while he was at BluePrint Café either.

To end off, a Vietnamese I’ve frequented on and off for the past few years, Saigon Saigon. The quality at this cavernous restaurant (they even have a downstairs bar) sometimes varies, but on the whole the appetisers like chargrilled quail, sugarcane prawns and banh cuon are flavourful, and the noodle offerings (our favourites are the beef pho and bún bò huế) solid. Plus, it saves us the trek to the Kingsland Road!

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Bubbledogs / 70 Charlotte Street, W1T 4QG / 020 7637 7770
Yaki / 53 Goodge Street, W1T 1TG
Bone Daddies / 31 Peter Street, W1F 0AW / 020 7287 7437
Patty & Bun / 54 James Street, UK W1U 1EU
Disco Bistro / The Rising Sun, 61 Carter Lane, EC4V 5DY / 07850 630 129
John Salt / 131 Upper Street, N1 1QP / 020 7704 8955
Rita’s Bar & Dining / Birthdays, 33-35 Stoke Newington Road, N16 8BJ
Mangal Ocakbasi / 10 Arcola Street, E8 2DJ / 020 7275 8981
Beirut Express / 112 Edgware Road, W2 2DZ / 020 7724 2700
Mazi / 12-14 Hillgate Street, W8 7SR / 020 7229 3794
Duck & Waffle / Heron Tower, 110 Bishopgate, EC2N 4AY / 203 640 7310
Cassis / 232-236 Brompton Road, SW3 2BB / 020 7581 1101
Upstairs at Ten Bells / 84 Commercial Street, E1 6LY / 07530 492986
Elliot’s / 12 Stoney Street, SE1 9AD / 020 7403 7436
HKK / Broadgate West, 88 Worship Street, EC2A 2BE / 020 3535 1888
Il Ristorante / 171 Knightsbridge, SW7 1DW / 020 7591 2442
The Grill at The Dorchester / 53 Park Lane, W1K 1QA / 020 7317 6336
The Ritz / 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR / 020 7493 8181
St John Hotel / 1 Leicester Street, WC2H 7BR / 020 3301 8020
The Thatched House / 115 Dalling Road, W6 0ET / 020 8748 6174
The Wolseley / 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB / 020 7499 6996
Dragon Palace / 207 Earl’s Court Road, SW5 9AN / 020 7370 1461
Old Town 97 / 19 Wardour Street, W1D 6PL / 0871 971 7753
Quo Vadis / 26-29 Dean Street, W1D 3LL / 020 7437 9585
Saigon Saigon / 313-317 King Street, W6 9NH / 020 8748 6887

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Tea clubs across London are bringing scones back in fashion (Picture: John Lewis)

Cut sandwiches, cream cakes and the clink of fine china – British afternoon tea. But this national ritual is under threat. A Disneyfied version is creeping into hotels across the world. And, worst of all, it’s turning French.

Tea connoisseur Henrietta Lovell says we’ve been corrupted by eclairs and multicoloured macarons – not to be confused with our stout, sticky almond macaroons. Real afternoon tea, she says, consists of tea from a teapot and something to tide you over before dinner.

Rare Tea Company founder Henrietta Lovell (Pic: File)

‘It shouldn’t be a sugar coma of a meal that fills you up so you can’t eat later,’ says Lovell, who founded the Rare Tea Company and whose illustrious clients include Heston Blumenthal and Mark Hix. In particular, there should be no champagne – an abomination introduced by The Ritz. ‘Champagne doesn’t go with the sweet food or the tea. It’s a flavour-paring travesty,’ she says.

Lovell is not alone. Tea clubs are rallying to defend us from foreign infiltrators. The Underground Afternoon Tea Club travels around London, sampling the best teas it can find. It also makes its own, experimenting with scone recipes and supping on jasmine and oolong leaves.

At John Lewis on London’s Oxford Street, chefs have put together a traditional menu (for £20.12, until the end of August). There’s no champagne or French patisserie. Instead, expect miniature scones with jam and clotted cream, Victoria sponge cakes topped with raspberries, crown shortbread biscuits and gin-infused jellies alongside fine-leaf teas.

The ritual is best defined in Alan Davidson’s Oxford Companion To Food. It’s ‘essentially British’, he says. Davidson identifies Harrogate in North Yorkshire as the heartland of afternoon tea. And Bettys Cafè Tea Rooms, which dates back to 1919, is a Harrogate institution.

Hazel Bone, manager at Bettys, says 1million customers come through the doors every year. What keeps them coming? ‘Our dainty sandwiches, the miniature cakes and scones handcrafted at our bakery in Harrogate, and our preserves and clotted cream, produced in Yorkshire,’ she says.

Champions of afternoon tea believe this quintessential British past time is under threat (Picture: File)

All are served on a silver cake stand and come with rare and speciality teas. Bone agrees with Lovell that a good afternoon tea shouldn’t make you so full that you can’t eat dinner.

She says: ‘Taking tea in the afternoon has been enjoyed since the early 19th century.‘The Duchess of Bedford is credited with inventing it to fill the long gap between luncheon and dinner.’

Is there still room for experimentation? Fergus Henderson, founder of the St John Hotel in London, has rustled up an exciting new interpretation without compromising its heritage.

Chef Fergus Anderson: ‘There’s nothing finer than warm, little buttock-like buns’ (Picture: St Johns)

He serves ‘a little bun moment’ that differs from the excesses of other hotels. A three-tiered silver stand contains three buns: one with anchovy, one with prune and one with chocolate. Even the accoutrements are first class: tea comes in black Stoke-on-Trent pots with an old-fashioned umbrella strainer.

Henderson says: ‘There’s nothing finer than warm, little buttock-like buns. It’s supposed to be like a firework display, a little five minutes. Buns, tea and away you go. It’s not corrupting the day at all.’

He adds: ‘Champagne isn’t a disaster or terrible but let’s not encourage it.’ Lovell, who chose teas that match the buns, looks happy at this.

http://www.stjohnhotellondon.com;  http://www.rareteacompany.com;  http://www.bettys.co.uk

Now for the rest of you who are here to witness the spectacle, a few words of advice. You are not athletes. You really should not wear sporting attire, especially if the furthest you’ve run recently is to the refrigerator door.   Sneakers should not be seen outside the gymnasium. It is not acceptable to wear baseball caps indoors.

This is an exciting city with some wonderful bars and restaurants.  Please frequent them.  I know it is exciting for you to be here. Please contain yourself.  We don’t really need to hear your conversation. Yes we know London is expensive and it rains a lot. We really don’t need you to tell us that either.  I know you love your kids. I love mine too. I leave them at home when I go out.  All decent hotels in London have babysitting services.  They employ very beautiful Eastern European girls who speak no English, so your kids won’t bother them.

The Tower Bridge proudly displays the Olympic rings

When the sun is shining in London, as it is now, there is no finer city in the world.  Despite their stiff upper lips, the natives are friendly.  Be warned however, that they will drink you under the table.  Have a helluva time! Here are my current favourite bars and restaurants:

The best martini in London is to be had at Dukes Hotel. This is a tiny hotel and the bar is a small traditional affair. All the tables are marked reserved.  Allesandro Palazzi, the bartender, will size you up.  If you are a serious drinker there is already a table reserved for you. If you order something silly like white wine they’ll banish you to a lesser bar. Ian Fleming sat here and wrote Casino Royale.  Legend has it that the phrase “shaken not stirred” was invented here.  Don’t even think about taking your kids.

Another favourite martini haunt is the Connaught Bar at the Connaught hotel.  It is only open in the evening.  The Dukes Hotel is for serious drinkers.  The Connaught is for serious drinkers to see and be seen. It is glamourous.  They have an excellent range of home made bitters with which they will delicately flavour your martini.  I like the lavender bitters in a Plymouth Gin martini. If you want to taste a £40 ($60) martini ask for their super premium vodkas.

Some of you may make it to London with someone you actually like versus someone you happen to get married to after you got drunk together during senior week. Take the person you like on a cocktail date to the Beaufort Bar at the Savoy Hotel.  It’s dark and sexy, all black with gold leaf accents.  The cabaret stage features live music from a venue where the likes of George Gershwin broadcast over the then newly launched British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC).  There are 27 champagnes available by the glass.  The bar counter is by Rene Lalique.  The cocktails are serious.

The magnificent Beaufort Bar at the Savoy

If you want to explore a proper drinking den without venturing too far outside central London I recommend the Experimental Cocktail Club (ECC) in Chinatown.  The entrance is unremarkable except for the bouncer guarding it.  Upstairs are two floors of shabby chic, a combination of fin-de-siecle opulence and antique store finds.  The drinks are reasonably priced at £10 (US $16) although you can push the boat out and order a £150 (US $230) martini made with 1950′s Gordon’s Gin. I’m not sure gin actually improves with age – more likely its a marketing gimmick to take advantage of finding a case of unopened gin in granny’s attic.  The crowd is young, hip and beautiful.  Whilst you are in London do try the most exciting new spirits houses – Sipsmith and Sacred Spirits are both brewed in London and both make an excellent London Dry Gin.  Sipsmith also makes a very good vodka. Chase’s makes my favourite potato vodka. All of the bars mentioned in this article stock them.

London’s food scene is cosmopolitan and exciting.  Unfortunately most good restaurants get booked early.  Go in the early part of the week or book lunch which tends to be less crowded (and frequently better value).

If you are going out to eat in London you must taste the best of British cusine:

• Fergus Henderson at St John Hotel near Leicester Square (plus his original Michelin starred St John Bar and Restaurant at the Smithfield’s).  Don’t take your muslim friends here.  Fergus celebrates eating the pig, every part of the pig, in what he calls “nose to tail eating”.  He serves up inner organs in big exhilarating dishes that combine high sophistication with peasant roughness.
• Jason Atherton at Pollen Street Social in Mayfair.  Atherton won a Michelin star at Maze and it won’t be long before his solo venture receives the same accolade.  This is sophisticated but fun food, served in a bright space with great cocktails.  Moreover there is a bar where you can eat the same food if the restaurant can’t find you a table.
• Mark Hix at Hix in Soho.  I also like his new restaurant Tramshed in Shoreditch.  There is a daily changing menu of seasonal British food.  The emphasis is on beef and shellfish, particularly oysters.  The art is by Damien Hirst and a revolving panoply of British talent.  The bar downstairs is exceptional (see my review in Bombay Rolls, Persian Lovers and a Bit of Hanky Panky)

Cigarette Girls in their prime at Quaglino’s

If you’ve forgotten to book early, look for a large restaurant with a bit more space.  My favourite last minute haunts are Quaglino’s in Mayfair and Le Pont de la Tour in Shad Thames (by the Tower Bridge). These are both establishment restaurants that have stood the test of time.  John le Carre’s spies met their handlers at Quaglino’s.  My friends in the intelligence community suggest it still is favoured by James Bond types.  The cigarette girls who sashay amongst the tables no longer offer cigarettes, but they still sashay.  Quaglino’s offers a classic brasserie menu.  Le Pont de la Tour offers a French menu, a waterfront setting and fabulous views of the Thames and Tower Bridge.  There are no cigarette girls at Le Pont de la Tour but the service is impeccable with an old world courtesy rarely seen in busy restaurants.

Before Margaret Thatcher kicked socialism into the long grass and put the Great back in Britain, the food here was atrocious.  It was said that the only edible food you could find in the UK was Indian.  London still has some of the best Indian food in the world.  Amaya in Knightsbridge serves some of the most creative Indian food in the world.  It is better than anything I’ve tasted in India, plus the waiters smell nicer.  Amaya was one of the first Indian restaurants in the world to be awarded a Michelin star.

If all else fails drop me a comment on this site and I’ll suggest some alternatives.  I’m keeping the home bar going for all visiting friends. No baseball caps please.

Further Reading

This fabulous tube map of some of London’s best cocktail bars was put together by the Gin Monkey.  Click for a larger image.  The list of bars mentioned is also available on Foursquare; handy if you want to meet people once you’ve had a few drinks and feel irresistibly attractive to the opposite sex.  You can find a very reliable list of London’s top 40 cocktail bars at Class Magazine, produced by the Difford’s Guide

Tube Map of Cocktail Bars – copyright The Gin Monkey (ginmonkey.co.uk)

The original michelin starred St. John restaurant based in Farringdon is known for using every part of the animal. For example, when my gentleman companion and I went a few years ago, we had lamb tongue, ox tongue and a whole grouse that was so rare it felt like we were vultures eating the freshly dead carcass.

We hoped that the menu at this new St. John Hotel restaurant based just off Leicester Square would provide equally interesting cuts of meat and we weren’t disappointed.

The restaurant is small with an open plan kitchen which gives the place a buzzy atmosphere. Our waiter was extremely friendly but slightly bordering on forceful. We decided not to go for a starter but he made it impossible for us to say no as he informed us our main course took 35 minutes to cook. Thank God he did twist our arms as the starter we had was absolutely incredible.

Snail, duck heart and lovage (£8.50) was all cooked to perfection. The duck hearts (a first for both of us) were pink and had the consistency of duck breast. I’m shocked that every chef in London isn’t using them. They are delicious! Our waiter informed us that lovage is a type of herb and the chefs make it into a butter which becomes the sauce. He brought over more bread for us to dunk in which was kind of him. If I had less class I would have licked the plate clean and asked for seconds.

Our main course was rabbit and wild garlic pie (£34). It was for two people to share and it was a very generous portion. The pastry top was buttery and flakey and I nearly fainted in my seat it was so good. And that was before I had even eaten the filling. Moist and tender rabbit with sweet garlic tasted phenomenal. So good in fact I had to tell the waiter it was the best pie I had ever eaten. We also had a side of jersey royal potatoes (£4.50) as our waiter, who was clearly the master of the up sell, had suggested.

As we ordered a dessert to share, he said “it can only go downhill from here” and he was sadly right. Caramel cream doughnuts (£7) were served warm and dusted with sugar. The doughnut itself was perfect and not too stodgy but the caramel cream filling was bitter and tasted of burnt sugar. It wasn’t however totally unbearable as all three doughnuts were demolished in minutes.

If you’re a fussy eater then this might not be the restaurant for you but if you’re willing to try new things then this place is a corker. The food is simply cooked and presented but in terms of flavour, it’s a knockout.

L’Hotel Amour in Paris has led the way for day-use hotels

L’Hotel Amour in Paris has  always embraced its sleazy past. Before graffiti artist André  Emmanuel transformed it into one of the city’s most sought- after boutique hotels, it used to be a brothel. Today, red neon lights blaze the word ‘Amour’ on its crumbly facade, erotic art adorns the red interior and, if you want a room for just a few hours, you will be offered a discreet day-rate option. Wonderfully French, but surely just a clever marketing tactic?

Apparently not. Managers Thibaud d’Agrèves and David Lebée noticed this service was becoming far more popular than originally expected.

‘We quickly realised this day-use  request was a frequent one – we were getting up to four a day – which was perfect for a hotel that has always been about matters of seduction,’ says D’Agrèves. ‘Then David saw the potential of offering this option in hotels around the world, a proposal that had never been done before.’

Day Use Hotels launched in Paris in November 2010, allowing guests to book rooms by the hour in more than 80 of the best Parisian hotels. Soon, they had added properties in Switzerland and  Belgium and last month London finally got in on the act, with luxury hotels  such as the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green and The Beaufort Hotel in Knightsbridge becoming part of the scheme. Plans for New York are already under way.

‘We don’t like big brands and impersonal hotels with generic interiors,’ says D’Agrèves, commenting on the wealth of top-end boutique hotels available through Day Use Hotels. But perhaps his guests might prefer the anonymity of the bigger hotels if they’re using rooms for sex? ‘The staff at the bigger hotels will still know what you’re doing,’ says D’Agrèves.

‘People who work in hotels have seen lots of things. It’s their job to be discreet. And why wouldn’t you want to be in beautiful surroundings?’

Indeed. So instead of spending next Tuesday evening in a restaurant filled with couples, consider spending the  afternoon having sex with your partner instead. It will be arguably more fun, and with prices starting at £80 for three hours, it will also be cheaper than a meal and flowers. These are times of austerity, after all. 

D’Agrèves is confident Day Use  Hotels will take off in London as it has in Paris because it offers such good  value for money. Take the St John Hotel in Soho: normally it would set you back £240 for the night but through the Day Use Hotels website you can hire one of its studios for six hours for £120 (and, let’s be honest, you can get a lot done in six hours).

‘It’s an answer to a crisis – people want to pay the right price even for  seduction,’ says D’Agrèves. He believes it will fill a practical purpose. too: ‘In London, there is a high percentage of the population living together as roommates so it’s a nice way to get some  privacy with your lover. We’re offering a break from the usual routine.’

Of course, using hotels for uninterrupted sex is nothing new. Japan, leading the salacious charge again, was the first country to open short-stay ‘love hotels’. The inaugural model opened in Osaka in the late 1960s and was quickly  followed by a succession of kitschy  copycats that recognised anonymity had to preside over everything else. Soon these hotels offered a choice of entrances (including underground tunnels) and even frosted glass on the reception desk.

In laid-back Brazil, love hotels are also popular but for different  reasons: the average person lives with their parents until they are 30. ‘In those circumstances, it is difficult to have sex with your partner,’ says D’Agrèves. ‘It’s an alternative for the “teenagers” still living at home.’

Back in Paris, Day Use Hotels is also seeing a rise in needs that aren’t so  amorous. Requests are coming from photographers wanting cheap studios for shoots, business travellers who need to rest between appointments and for  companies who want an unusual setting for their meetings. So, regardless of your needs, it seems a temporary, luxury pit stop could be the answer.

For a full list of London hotels, visit www.dayuse-hotels.com

Kung-fu lessons may help you work through relationship issues…

The best of the rest: Romance-free getaways

China

Sharpen your mind and your fist with a kung-fu course in Zhengzhou’s Shaolin Temple and then practise your new skills  on one another. You never know, it may  be the perfect way to vent your relationship tensions.Over 12 nights, you will spend two days with a shaolin warrior monk and learn the basics of sanda (shaolin kickboxing). The tailor-made trip will also incorporate visits to Beijing, Shanghai, Xi’an and Zhengzhou.From £1,999pp. Tel: 020 3344 3866;  www.chinalinkstravel.co.uk

Cumbria

Romance isn’t just about sipping champagne and staring into each other’s eyes. Romance is gulping it back, getting naked and jumping in  a freezing lake. The thought of skinny-dipping may bring a tear to your eye but when the weather warms up, head to Langstrath Beck,  a wild valley in the heart of the Lake District that was once home to William Wordsworth. Daniel Start, author of Wild Swimming, explains what captivated the poet and those who followed. ‘Crystal-clear water tumbles down through deep pools and waterfalls,’ he says. ‘The best place for a wild swim is Galleny Force, with  its ancient oaks and smooth, flat rocks for sunbathing. But best of all, it’s only a 20min walk up from Langstrath Beck Inn, which has open fires and rooms with fresh linen sheets’.From £55 per night, www.thelangstrath.com ;  www.wildswimming.co.uk

Iceland

If you prefer adventure over room service, then a weekend of diving between tectonic plates should keep you occupied. Over two days you will explore the Silfra Rift in Thingvellir National Park, which is considered the clearest water in the world. This incredible underwater canyon is a crack between the American and Eurasian continents that is said to be one of the most untouched parts of the planet.From £999pp (including two nights at the Borg Hotel and kit). Tel: 020 7426 9888; www.blacktomato.com

Brenda Ramsey was in touch again and it would now appear that I am a trustee of YOUYOU Mentoring. We are talking about doing an exhibition of all the work taken by the photography Mentees. Alex Proud has offered us The Strand Gallery for the first week in January. Alex is a great supporter, not only of YOUYOU, but also the Down’s Syndrome Association and has often let us have space in his galleries. Thank you Alex.

Myself and George Miuga, one of my original mentees take a trip to the newly opened St.John Hotel in Leicester Square to take photographs of Fergus Henderson. Fergus is wonderfully affable, helpful and very game. We have asked for the (obligatory) pigs head and he gives of his time freely and we get some wonderful shots.

Jo Turpin comes along and shoots a beautiful little film as well.

In the meantime hang Shifting Perspectives work in Doncaster at The Point.

Fergus Henderson, St. John Hotel, London W1

Fergus Henderson, St. John Hotel, London W1

All images ©Richard Bailey

Deck of Secretsが11月に発行した、ロンドンの朝食＆ブランチガイド「Breakfast & Brunch Secrets London」。タバコぐらいの大きさの箱に、ロンドンの高級店からカジュアルなカフェまで、現地ライターが厳選した新旧52店を紹介したカード（表はお店の写真と情報、裏は地図が印刷）が入っている。ちなみに、ジョーカーを除くトランプのカードの数も52、そして1年を週換算した数も52（＋1日）。週1回1店行くと、1年で全店制覇出来る計算になる。

2003年にオーストラリアのメルボルンで生まれたDeck of Secretsは、現在、ダイニングやブランチ、バー、ショッピング、スパなどのテーマ別に、メルボルン、シドニーなどオーストラリアのみならず、ニューヨーク、ロンドン、エジンバラ、香港、ダブリン、バルセロナ、モントリオールやバンクーバーなど世界の人気都市のガイドを25冊以上発行している。

このガイドと出会ったきっかけは、出版社から、エンジェルのオーストリアン・カフェ・Kipferlの写真を使わせて欲しいという連絡があったこと。出来上がった、この可愛いガイドを送って下さった。自分の写真が使われているから宣伝している訳ではなく（ブログに書いてくださいという依頼もありません）、Albion、Caravan、Lantana、Leila’s Shop、Look Mum No Hands!、J+A Cafe、St Ali、Milk Bar、St John Hotel、Dishoom、Hackney Pearlと、今まで私がブログで取り上げたところも多く、親近感を感じたから。それに、マーサ・スチュワート・リビング風のパステルカラーのパッケージもレイアウトもキュートだし、値段も£4.99とお手頃。またカード型なら、ガイドを持ち歩かなくても、お財布にお目当ての店のカードを一枚しのばせるだけでOK。iPhoneとWindows 7のアプリ版もあり。

“Breakfast & Brunch Secrets London” guide is published in November 2011 by Deck of Secrets. 52 places carefully chosen by local writers across London, from high end to casual, new and old, are included in this cigarette size box containing card-style guides – one place per card, a photo and information printed on the front and map on the back. ’52′ is the same  number of cards contained in a playing card deck, as well as a number of weeks in one year – so you can cover all places in one year if you go one place every week. Clever!

Launched in 2003 in Melbourne, Australia, Deck of Secrets now publishes over 25 titles in different categories like dining, brunch, bar, shopping, spa etc, covering not only Australia such as Sydney and Melbourne, but also popular cities worldwide including New York, Vancouver, Montreal, London, Edinburgh, Dublin Barcelona and Hong Kong.

I got to know this guide because the publisher contacted me to use one of my photo of Kipferl, an Austrian café in Angel. She kindly sent me this cute guide after going on sale. I am writing about this guide, not because my photo is used or I was asked to publicise it (which they never did), but the guide includes many places I mentioned in my blog, such as Albion, Caravan, Lantana, Leila’s Shop, Look Mum No Hands!, J+A Cafe, St Ali, Milk Bar, St John Hotel, Dishoom, and Hackney Pearl – this make me feel very close to the guide. Also its Martha Stewart-like package design and layout with pastel colours is nice, and the price of £4.99 (€7.95/$9.95 in AUS/US/Canada) is quite reasonable. You don’t need to bring an entire guide but only one card in your choice in your wallet – how handy, isn’t it? iPhone and Windows 7 Apps are also available.

今年春に、チャイナタウンのど真ん中、ヒップなW Londonホテルの隣にオープンしたSt.John Hotel。スミスフィールド肉市場近くにある、ロンドン一美味しいイギリス料理店との誉れの高い、St. Johnの姉妹店だ。2009年にミシュラン一つ星に輝き、Restaurant magazineによる世界のTop 50レストラン・ランキング常連のSt. Johnは、「nose to tail eating」、内臓や豚の耳、足、しっぽ、骨髄、鴨の心臓など、あまり使われない部位を使用した伝統的イギリス料理で知られる、食通やセレブに人気のあるレストラン。家から近いので、様子見に本店に1度、スピタルフィールズにあるSt. John Bread & Wineに1度行ったことがある。本店では、レバーは苦手なのに、チャレンジ精神からトーストの上にレバーがのった一品をつい頼んでしまい、その臭みに少し閉口。St. John Bread & Wineでは、チキンのローストを頼んだら、丸ごとチキンを目の前にどん！と置かれ、肉を切り分けるのに苦労した。これらの経験に加え、モツや肉の珍部位にはあまり食指が動かないので、しばらく敬遠していたのだが、新しい支店は試しておかねばと、少し前に行ってみた。

内装は、3店に共通する、白黒をベースにダークウッドを使用した、シンプルで明るいインテリア。ただ、他2店に比べて狭い。夜10時という予約時間にも関わらず満席、隣のテーブルと距離が近すぎて、なんだか窮屈に感じる。来る前にアペタイザーをつまみながら飲んでいたので、この日は二人で、羊の舌とチコリの前菜（£8：写真下）とクレソンのサラダ（£5.50）、チキンパイ（2人分£32：写真下）と、軽めに注文。新鮮な材料に洗練された味付け、味も悪くないのだけれど、羊の舌の食感と独特の匂いはやっぱりちょっと苦手（牛タンは好きだけど）。そしてパイは二人分にしてもデカく途中飽きがくるので、一人分の大きさで、他にもう一品頼んでシェアしたいところ。メニューのバリエーションも少なく、シンプルなイギリス料理としては値が張る。私的にはCanteenに軍配を上げたい。

A sister restaurant of St. John, reputed as London’s No.1 British restaurant, St.John Hotel opened in spring 2011 in the midst of Chinatown, next to hip design hotel, W London Leicester Square. Regularly placed in Restaurant magazine‘s annual list of the Top 50 restaurants in the world and awarded a Michelin star in 2009,  St. John, located near Smithfield meat market, specialises in “nose to tail eating”, using offal and rare cuts such as pigs’ ears and tails, trotters, ducks’ heart, and bone marrow, cooked with traditional British recipes. It is a favourite eating out place for celebs and foodies. We live nearby, so we tried St. John and St. John Bread & Wine near Spitalfields one time each. I ordered lever on toast at St. John, though I don’t fancy lever, and I didn’t like it as I anticipated – don’t say I shouldn’t have ordered from the begining… We ordered chicken roast for two at St. John Bread & Wine, and got a whole chicken without someone slicing for us and we ended up messing our plate… With these experiences and the fact that I don’t fancy internal organs and pig’s outer parts, I had been avoiding St. John since then, but I gave one more chance to their new branch in Chinatown.

Its black & white-based interior with dark wood furniture is simple and bright, like other two restaurants, but the space is tighter than others and almost claustrophobic with very little space between tables. It was nearly full, even at 1opm reservation slot, and this didn’t help us breath either. As we had some drinks and nibbles before we went there, we just order lamb tongue with chicory (£8: photo below), watercress salad (£5.50) and chicken pie (£32 for two: photo below). Yes, the ingredients were fresh and dishes tasted good, but I didn’t like the texture and strange smell of the tongue (though I love sliced & sauteed beef tongue). The pie was too big, even for two, and got bored with it at the end – it would be better if it was a portion for one so we could order another dish to share. The menu is short and pricey as non-complicated dishes with cheaper cuts. I would rather go for more casual Canteen than St. John’s gangs.

The St John restaurants are close to an institution in London, with the Smithfield and Spitalfield restaurants being a must-go for any visiting foodie. Recently Fergus Henderson, the chef behind the establishment, opened the St John Hotel in SoHo, changing his famous catchphrase “Nose-to-tail eating” to the new  ”From table to bed“.

The hotel has taken over the site of the even more famous institution “Manzy’s – Famous Seafood Restaurant” that had been there for the last 60 years. You can still see the remains on the building facade where signage saying “Langouste, Huiles and Moules” remains as a nod to history.

The hotel holds a restaurant on the ground floor, a bar on the 1st floor and some 17 rooms. Besides the restaurant, all floors are made from rubber and each floor has a different shade of green, as if you were travelling through the layers of a lake. The rooms are divided into 3 categories; the mini-grand, the long room and the post-supper rooms – the last one being for customers that simply just had too good an evening and decide to take the lift upstairs and crash for the night.

The mini bars in the rooms are proper treats with the best from local breweries, juice farms and homemade lemonades. However a single bar of toblerone is to be found on a shelf among all the other delicacies. Fergus explains this with that after you’ve had such a treat downstairs, you simply have to have something awful to balance it out!

Read more: St John Hotel

imagine my excitement when fergus henderson & co decided to open up not just a restaurant, but a hotel smack in the middle of leicester square. while i didn’t stay at the hotel, i managed to squeeze in a good old b’fast during my trip.

the restaurant of the hotel is quite bare boned, like a smaller version of the original restaurant.  all white table cloths, simple wooden chairs, and white walls.  there was one other table filled, aside from myself, during b’fast time.

the restaurant’s website spoke copiously about the “buns” that they served throughout the day.  i felt compelled to try them even though i lacked the appetite to consume the 3 buns included in one order.  the breakfast buns were a bit like a cross between a croissant and a cinnamon bun.  they were flakey, stuffed with assorted sweet flavorings — i believe one was cinnamon, one was plain, and one had sultanas (raisins in american english) in it. i guess they were sinful, but a bit too rich and greasy for my tastes.  here’s a cross section:

i probably should have stopped at the b’fast buns (i ended up dissecting all 3 buns and tasting a bit of each — which probably left the staff thinking i had bad table manners or strange eating habits), but i went ahead and did myself in by ordering boiled eggs & anchovy toast.  the staff highly recommended blood pudding & beans, but i’ve never been one for blood pudding . . . something to try for the more adventurous eaters out there.

i quite liked the anchovy toast.  it’s a slab of thick country bread, toasted and smeared with an intense anchovy paste — if i had to change something, i would probably ask the anchovy paste to be on the side, so that i could control the amount that went onto the toast — a smidge too salty for my tastes. the runny egg yolks do pair nicely with the anchovy taste — as it helps to cut down on the saltiness.

St. John Hotel
1 Leicester St
London WC2H 7BL
+44 (0) 203 301 8020

Some of London’s other highly acclaimed chefs have also spread their wings with Marcus Wareing, who runs the Michelin starred Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley, opening The Gilbert Scott, a British brasserie at the St Pancras Renaissance hotel, and Jason Atherton, formerly of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, opening Pollen Street Social in Mayfair, which also features London’s first dessert bar.

The Gilbert Scott

Leicester Square became home to two new venues with the launch of the W Hotel, which features the restaurant Spice Market and the Wyld Bar, and the St John Hotel, a 16 bedroom hotel with a 70 cover restaurant offering Fergus Henderson’s famous ‘nose to tail’ food from breakfast until the early hours.

Spuntino, the new venture from the team behind Polpo and Polpetto, the successful Venetian ‘bacaros’ in Soho, opened in March with a menu and look inspired by New York, quickly followed by the opening of da Polpo in Covent Garden in June, where the menu features a meatball section and an expanded pizzetta offering as well as a selection of favourite dishes from Polpo and Polpetto. Like their sister restaurants, both have a no reservation policy for dinner, so expect to queue.

The Corinthia hotel opened near Whitehall in April with a bar and restaurant designed by David Collins. The restaurant, Massimo’s, is overseen by Italian chef Massimo Riccioli, who also runs La Rosetta in Rome. The menu focuses on seafood, with crudo, antipasti and oysters served at the bar throughout the day.

In Clerkenwell, The Zetter Hotel opened a sister property in April across the road from the original boutique hotel in a Georgian townhouse. The Zetter Townhouse has the feel of an eclectic private residence rather than hotel with just 11 rooms, two suites and a lounge and cocktail bar, all designed by interior designer Russell Sage, with cocktails from renowned mixologist Tony Conigliaro from 69 Colebroke Row.

The Zetter Townhouse

London has seen the addition of some great Spanish restaurants, starting the year with the Opera Tavern in Covent Garden from the team behind Salt Yard and Dehesa and later in the year with José, a new sherry and tapas bar in Bermondsey from José Pizarro, who made a name for himself at Brindisa.

The team behind the acclaimed Garrison and Village East in Bermondsey opened the Riding House Café, an all day Brasserie offering a selection of small plates to share as well as traditional main courses in Fitzrovia. The restaurant has a great vibe and a ‘buzzy’ bar area too.

Photo: Riding House Cafe

In recent weeks, two new restaurants have opened in Mayfair with female TV personalities at the helm – Silvena Rowe, a regular on Saturday Kitchen, has opened Quince, an Eastern Mediterranean restaurant at The May Fair hotel, and Iron Chef contestant Judy Joo is in charge of The Dining Room at The Playboy Club.

If you now need a stiff drink to digest all these new openings, head to VOC, a new 17^th century inspired cocktail bar in an elegant, intimate setting in the Regents Quarter near King’s Cross.

Bon Vivant is a concierge service that specialises in the things that you don’t have the time, expertise or inclination to do yourself. To make a reservation, please contact your concierge.

Giggly Kristen Stewart was papped as she gets into her car after a night out with Sienna Miller

The Twilight actress, 21, joined Sienna, 29, for a meal before hitting the favoured celeb haunt in Soho, in the centre of the capital.

Kristen was photographed later in the evening giggling as she stumbled into her waiting car.

Sienna’s new boyfriend, the scruffy looking actor Tom Sturridge, was also in tow.  

The trio are said to have had dinner in the St John Hotel in China Town before heading on to the popular club.

Kristen and Tom are co-stars in forthcoming film On The Road and Tom is also a pal of Kristen’s boyfriend Robert Pattinson.  

Sienna stared dating 25-year-old Tom in April following a split with Jude Law in February.

She is currently treading the boards in Flare Path at the Theatre Royal.

Marcus Wareing, who runs the Michelin starred Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley, will open The Gilbert Scott at the St Pancras Renaissance hotel. The British brasserie, which will also feature a 52-seat bar in spectacular surroundings, opens on 5 May.

Jason Atherton, formerly of Gordon Ramsay’s Maze, will opened Pollen Street Social in Mayfair on 18 April, offering ‘fine dining with a twist’, which will also feature London’s first dessert bar.

The Corinthia hotel opens in Whitehall this weekend with a gorgeous David Collins designed restaurant, Massimo’s, which will be overseen by Italian chef Massimo Riccioli, who also runs the Michelin-starred La Rosetta in Rome.

Earlier this month, Bistro du Vin Clerkenwell opened next to Smithfield Market, the Hotel du Vin’s first foray into the London scene, with a planned expansion over the next year, with the next site already scheduled to open in Soho in June. You can combine a visit to Bistro du Vin with a cocktail at the new Zetter Townhouse hotel bar, pictured below.

One of the most celebrated British chefs, Fergus Henderson, has recently opened the St John Hotel in Leicester Square. Based on the same premise as his main restaurant, St John, in Clerkenwell, the new hotel continues with the ‘nose to tail’ ethos, using every part of the animal from nose to tail, but adding to it with the concept of ‘from table to bed’ as guests can check in to one of the ‘post-supper rooms’ above the restaurant.

For further information on any of these new openings or to make a reservation, contact your concierge.

Photo: http://www.stjohnhotellondon.com

3 reasons to go there:

1. To sleep after you had dinner at St John Restaurant.
2. To enjoy their no nonsense atmosphere – just like in their restaurant.
3. In case you are wondering: the two men in bed are Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver – the owners of St John.

From 236 euro per night. Check out: www.stjohnhotellondon.com

Image from T-magazine from the NY Times

New Club Gascon Venture

The team behind Michelin starred Club Gascon in Smithfield have backed a new opening on Chancery Lane near Temple. The restaurant is called ‘Cigalon’ and specialises in Provençal cuisine.

New Bars in Clerkenwell and Shoreditch

Situated near St Paul’s, Club Ten opened earlier this week, described as a private members’ club with a strong focus on live music. Closer to Old Street, Bar Nightjar, ‘a new speakeasy for the 21st century’, is set to open on 18 November. In Shoreditch, Ninetyeight bar and lounge has relaxed its members only policy and recently opened to the public to offer a mix of art, music, cocktails and fashion, from mixology classes to burlesque shows and vintage ‘high’ tea parties.

Photo: Ninetyeight Bar and Lounge

Pan Asian Pub in Notting Hill

The Chesterfield, a new venture from the FR Group (who own Notting Hill Brasserie among others), has opened in Notting Hill serving pan-Asian cuisine in a British pub setting.

Wolfgang Puck to Open in London?

Catersearch.com has reported that Wolfgang Puck is to open a steakhouse at 45 Park Lane, the Dorchester Collection’s new hotel on Park Lane. Puck is expected to launch ‘Cut’ in spring 2011, a restaurant he opened at the Beverly Wilshire hotel in Beverly Hills in 2006. I visited the restaurant shortly after it opened and can highly rate the steaks and the tuna tartare starter!

London’s Best New Steakhouse?

Hawksmoor Seven Dials has only been open for a week or so and it’s already a firm favourite on the London scene – excellent steaks and cocktails with a great look and vibe.

Mark Hix to Open in Los Angeles?

Mark Hix is rumoured to be heading to LA to open up a pop-up restaurant with jeweller Stephen Webster in Beverly Hills. It will be called ‘Hixters’ and will offer a mix of British food.

New Look for the Fifth Floor at Harvey Nichs

Following a recent refurbishment, the Fifth Floor Restaurant at Harvey Nichols has unveiled a new look along with new menus and a list of biodynamic wine. The A La Carte menu is available at lunch and dinner, priced at £35 for two courses and £40 for three.

Photo: Harvey Nichols Fifth Floor

Wahaca Expansion

Wahaca is taking its Mexican street food concept to Soho’s Wardour Street, which opens on 10 November. The restaurant will be set over two floors and will have a tequila bar on the ground floor.

New Hotels in London

New hotels seem to be opening up all over London at the moment, with more to come in the first half of 2011. The Zetter is due to open a sister property in May 2011 across the road from the original boutique hotel in a Georgian townhouse which will have the feel of a private residence rather than hotel with just 11 rooms, two suites and a lounge and cocktail bar, all designed by interior designer Russell Sage.

The Eccleston Square Hotel is also due to open in May 2011 in Pimlico with 40 bedrooms all with £12,000 Hasten beds from Sweden, a restaurant and bar, and a large focus on the in room technology.

Artistic Impression of the Eccleston Square Hotel

Other notable openings include the St John Hotel and the W Hotel, both to open on Leicester Square, the Four Seasons London and the Dorchester Collection’s 45 Park Lane in Mayfair, the Corinthia near Whitehall, von Essen’s Verta next to the heliport in Battersea and the ME hotel group is expected to open a London hotel by 2012.