Included in the 2012 New Year’s Resolutions was to do “whatever was necessary” to sew a top that actually fit!

Two requirements were common themes across every website visited on pattern fitting,

1.  Measuring myself with a tape measure.

2.  Making a muslin.

I would not describe my reaction to these suggestions as “irate” – I was merely “indignant!”

Measure myself?  What good could possibly come from that?  I have worn the same size pattern since high school!

A muslin? For three generations, women in may family have sewn clothing – and I never remember so much as a mention of making a muslin – a sloper, maybe…but not a muslin.

McCalls 2718 - A "Sloper"

So, those suggestions had to process for quite some time….

…while I visited the Pattern Stash for inspiration.

…additional processing was required, so I visited the Fabric Stash for more inspiration.

With pattern, fabric, and coffee in hand, I finally accepted the measuring and “muslining” might be worth the time and effort.

Butterick 5485, the fabric, and the dreaded tape measure

Butterick 5485 was the pattern of choice.  Stacy and Clinton would approve of its:

1. Empire Waist  – is the most flattering fit!
2. Deep V-neck – elongates the body
3. Body – floats away from the waist band.

It is also Arizona-approved as it is sleeveless.

Bonus: The pattern is also labeled with finished measurements.

Found the dreaded measuring tape and measured away.

Bust was fine. Waist was fine. (OK, so maybe one size larger than in high school!)

Underbust – not so fine.  Apparently, I have a bizarrely large ribcage.  Had to add 3″.

Then on to the muslin – only muslin had nothing to do with it.  It was made of a Stash Fabric that was similar to the final project fabric, but “the polyester” is just not right.

The “muslin” revealed a few suggestions:

1. Lose 10 pounds
2. Lengthen upper bodice 1/2″.
3. Cut armholes 1/2″ higher.
4. Reduce gathers by using a 1″ dart and then gathering remainder.
5. Shorten band by 1.25″.  It was way too wide.
6. Lose 10 pounds.

Suggestions 1 and 6 aside, I cut out the pattern using the adjustments.

The fabric is a shiny slippery polyester satin, which was not easy to work with.  Each pattern piece had to be “gross” cut (about 2″ extra all the way around pattern piece) and then moved to the ironing board for the final cut.

It Fits!

Interfacing.  Sewing.  Invisible zipper.  More sewing.  Some ripping out.  More sewing…

….and it fit!

Side View - AKA Red Carpet View - now if I can just get Tiffany's to provide diamonds for the occasion!

Apparently measuring and muslining are worth it!

Who knew?

One New Year’s Resolution checked off!

But this process leaves me with three issues to ponder:

1. Did all those clothes I used to sew really fit or not???
2. Is it the pattern that doesn’t fit or the body that doesn’t conform?
3. What causes a bizarrely large ribcage?

Pink Petal Cardigan

Are you ready for some football?

Line up the Unfinished Knitting Projects from the Stash, knitting needles, and a coffee – turn on ESPN and the playoffs and…

I…it is time to knit!

Football and knitting! A great Destashification Weekend!

Sitting and knitting for more than 8 hours a day would normally earn the wrath of a few  – but turn on NFL Prime Time or a game and just tell everyone you are watching the game – and all is good!

Pattern: A Modified #14 Leaf Yoke Top by Angela Hahn (Knit.1, SS2009)

The Pink Petal Cardigan is another sweater, also top-down knit, that was completed during a football game! Two other Destashification Sweaters were completed earlier this month.

The original pattern (left) was not a cardigan and did not have sleeves – but in top-down knitting that is not a difficult modification.

Debbie Bliss Cotton Cashmere from The Stash

The yarn was in The Stash, Debbie Bliss Cotton Cashmere in a Ballet Pink.  Cotton Cashmere is very soft.

Love the Lace Yoke in this pattern!  So pretty!

Detail of Lace Yoke

The Stash holds a few other yarns that I may knit up in this pattern.

Once the yoke is completed, there is just stockinette stitch – perfect for football game knitting!

After finishing the Five Year Sweater, I was motivated to complete a few of the other partially completed knitting projects in the Yarn Stash.

Detail of Linen Cardigan Lace

Two sweaters were completed before the fleeting knitting motivation abandoned me again!

The blue cardigan is knit in a surprisingly soft 100% linen yarn.

It is a basic raglan top-down cardigan with lace added at the front edges.  The pattern is available free. 

Linen Cardigan

Linen and short sleeved, it will be perfect for the Arizona summers – when the AC creates an indoor chill.

Linen yarn is said to “bloom.”   After knitting with it, I realize that “bloom” is just an artistic expression for “shed.” When knitting this, I was so covered in blue lint that I looked like a smurf!

The second cardigan was also top-down, knit with a lace petal design a the neck.

Petal Lace Cardigan

The yarn was a worsted weight bamboo, hand-dyed in colors that were impossible to walk away from – pinks and browns! I believe it was called Copper Rose.

The brown is a coppery rust color, the pink is a muted ruby.  The Stash contains a copper colored linen fabric that will make a perfect skirt to compliment the sweater!

Petal Lace Detail - Back

Even in Arizona, the winter mornings require a long-sleeved sweater to ward off the chill.

The Stash provided the buttons – a tiny pink bead was added when they were sewn on.

Stash Buttons with pink bead.

If the knitting mojo hits again, I may redo the neckline of this cardigan.  In these photos, it is apparent that it distorts the lace design.

Edited on 1/9/12:  Reknit the neckline (4 times).  The first time I followed the pattern and it was huge!  The second time (above) it was too tight.  The third time was just a bit wonky as the decreases caused angles in the neckline.

Corrected and re-corrected neckline.

Finally (said Goldilocks) it was just right (or close enough).

The Five Year Sweater

When winter sets, so does the urge to knit.  Even after moving to Arizona.

My sons, now men, still live in the Northeast and still need warm sweaters (at least in their mother’s opinion).

Five winters ago, I started Jack’s Aran Pullover in Men in Knits by Tara Jon Manning.  It is just looks sooooo comfortable!

About 10″ later,  spring came – and then summer with its 100+ degree temperatures.  Too hot for knitting.

Jack's Aran Pullover

When the temperatures finally cooled off the next winter, a valiant attempted to continue knitting the sweater was made – however,  I could not figure out where I was in the intertwined cable pattern.  So I put it away for another year….OK, two years.

Then The Destashification Project was initiated.  Having 20 balls of Alpaca/Cashmere/Silk/Merino yarn in a bag, in the closet, with a partially completed project, would require destashing!

Knit Picks Panache in Moss - Wonderful to touch!

The yarn is Knit Picks Panache, which is no longer available, but is WONDERFUL!

So I ordered Patons #1232, Inca for Men Booklet from Patons Australia.  It contained a very straightforward Guernsey Sweater pattern that would be able to hibernate through the Arizona summers.

I unraveled down to the ribbing and started knitting whatever number of stitches calculated to 44″ while waiting for the pattern.

Summer of the sweater’s 4th year arrived before the pattern.

The pattern took four months to arrive (Note to self:  If ordering from Down Under, pay the extra $5 for air mail.)

This winter (Year 5), I was determined to finish the sweater!

Guernsey Sweater Yoke Detail

After all the stockinette stitch in the body, the yoke detail was fun – but not long enough for me to lose my place!

The “finishing” steps in knitting have always posed a hurdle for me.   So to avoid such foolishness as sewing sleeve seams, I picked up the sleeve stitches at the shoulder and knit in the round towards the cuff.   Knitting sleeves from the shoulder down also helps determine the correct sleeve length when knitting for a son with a 6′ 8″ arm span!

Packaged and insured and mailed off to the son for Christmas.  It kept me warm while knitting – and should keep him warm in the frigid temperatures of the Northeast!

However, the Destashification Continues!  I think I have enough yarn left for a sweater for the size 2 twenty-something daughter.

All Variety of Flanged Pillows - Lovely to Look At - Simple to Sew

Who enjoys sewing in zippers?

Silence…

An occasional cricket chirping….

…..but mostly silence.

Something about zippers frightened an entire generation away from sewing.  However, this “zipper anxiety” is totally unnecessary.

Flanged pillows can be completed in less than 2 hours – complete with a frustration-free zipper!

Flanged Pillow with measurements

This tutorial is for an 18″ pillow form. When finished the pillow will have a 2″ flange all the way around – for a total of a 22″ square.  (See Math notes at bottom of post if using a different pillow size.)

Materials:

• 28″ of fabric (44″ or wider)
• One 16″ regular zipper

1. Pillow Top = one 24" square

1. Cut the fabric for the pillow back into two rectangles:  one 10″ by 24,” and the other 18″ by 24″.  The Stash provided some not-really-Ultrasuede for the backs of the pillows

2. Cut one 24″ square for the pillow top.  Put aside for later.  My daughter choose an upholstery weight checked fabric for her pillow tops. .

3. Find the middle of the length of the zipper and mark with a pin.  Just folding the zipper in half does this quite easily (and is Math-Free!)

2. Align mid-point of zipper to mid-point of 24" side of smaller rectangle.

4. Find the middle of the 24″ side of the smaller pillow back rectangle and mark with a pin.

5.  Align the middle of zipper to the middle of the rectangle, right sides together.  The long edge of the zipper should line up with the edge of the fabric.

3. To avoid "issues" with zipper pull, sew two or three inches with zipper partially opened.

6.  Using a zipper foot, sew the zipper to the fabric using approximately 1/4″ seam allowance.  The zipper pull will get in the way.  To avoid any problem, start sewing with the zipper partially unzipped.  Sew about two inches ending with needle down, lift the pressure foot, zip the zipper closed, drop the pressure foot, and continue sewing.

4. Lift pressure foot, close zipper, drop pressure foot, and continue sewing.

Press fabric away from zipper.

5. Aligning zipper for second seam. Fabric is "flapped" to show underlying zipper (just for illustration, please do not flap fabric when sewing the seam). Seam shown with pink dotted line.

Repeat these steps with the larger rectangle and the unsewn edge of the zipper.  But do not press this seam.

6. Zipper sewn to both pillow back rectangles.

The zipper will look something like Photo 6.

Take a moment to enjoy your zipper success!  Anxiety and frustration free!

Now for the “placket” – kind of an odd word.  But then again, so is “flange”.

Lay entire piece flat.

7. Pinch and fold larger rectangle two inches from zipper

Pinch edges of larger rectangle approximately 2″ from zipper as shown in Photo 7.

Create a 2″ fold from the pinches and fold it over the zipper.  This will creates the “placket” – or the fold that covers the zipper.

Insert Cardboard and ruler into crease (placket-to-be), then smooth pillow back.

To keep the placket a consistent width, slide a ruler or a piece of cardboard into the crease that was created from the pinch-and-fold.  See Photo 8.  It should be between 1.5″ and 2″ in depth.

Using your hands, smooth the crease and the pillow back with your hand.

9. "Perfect Depth" Math-Free Measuring Device (perfect for hems as well)

NON-Math Method:  Cut a little triangle into the piece of cardboard to define the depth of the crease (placket) as shown in Photo 9. Then use it to make sure the depth is consistent across the entire pillow back.  If fractions are preferred – use the ruler instead.

Important:  Take care not to pull the crease with too much effort – the zipper must remain flat.  Too much effort may pull it over on its side.

Once the depth is consistent, pin the crease (placket) closed at the edges and every 4″ or so.  Press with iron.

10. Ovelap seam allowances past end of zipper. The pink dotted line illustrates where the placket seam will be.

Turn the entire piece over so the wrong side is up.  Note that the zipper does not extend all the way to the edge of the fabric square. Overlap the fabric in the non-zipper sections and pin  – as best as can be done without “deforming” the pillow backs.  There will be small sections that do not quite overlap – that is just fine!  None of this will show.  Everything will be covered by the placket!

Now to define where the placket seam will be – and ensure it is a nice straight seam:

11. Poke pins (hard to see, but are at ends of pink arrows) through pillow back at the zipper seam line of larger rectangle.

Poke pins through the pillow back at the larger rectangle zipper seam.  The pins need to be visible on the right side.  Just three or four pins are all that is needed.

Turn piece over.

12. Lay a piece of tape along pins to define placket seam line.

The pins that are poking through define the stitching line.  Lay a piece of tape (I use painter’s tape) along the pins to create a straight edge for sewing.

13. Tape should be a consistent distance from placket crease.

I do measure the tape to ensure it is the same distance from the placket crease for the entire width.  It should be approximately 2″ (approximately!)

14. Sew along edge of tape to create an even, straight placket seam.

Sew along the tape edge as shown in Photo 14.  This seam creates a wide flange to hide the zipper.

That little zipper pull may get in the way again.  If so, sew to within a few inches of it, unzip it and then continue sewing.

Remove the tape.

15. Completed Placket! Completed Zipper!

For added stability, sew back and forth along the overlapped edges.

The Frustration Free Zipper is complete!  (Do a little victory dance!)

Common problem – no worries:  If the overlapped sections at the ends of the zipper (Photo 10) were not sewn in place by the Placket Seam, just tack them down with a few hand stitches.  They will be secured by the Flange Seam before the pillow is complete.

Place the pillow back flat – right side up.  Lay the pillow top on top of  it – right side down (right sides together).  Pin corners and edges.

16. IMPORTANT: Prior to sewing final seam, the zipper must be unzipped a few inches.

IMPORTANT:  Carefully reach through one pinned side and unzip the zipper about 6″ – other wise, turning the finished pillow right side out will present challenges.

17. Sew pillow top and back together 1" from edges.

Sew all the way around, 1″ from edges as shown in Photo 17.

18. Serged edges (optional) and corners trimmed diagonally.

Trim edges to about 1/2″.  I serged the edges, but it is not required.  Trim the corners diagonally across as shown in Photo 18.

Turn pillow right side out through the unzipped portion of the zipper.

19. Lay pillow top down on ironing board. Use large pin to pull seam while ironing to create flat edge.

Lay the pillow top side down on ironing board.  Using a strong pin (a large safety pin works well) pull the seam and iron flat.  This creates a nice flat edge, but it does take a while.

Zip the pillow closed.

Pin and sew 2" from edge all the way around pillow to create flange.

Pin all the way around the pillow approximately 2″ from edges. Smooth any “fluff” toward the middle of the pillow.

Stitch around pillow 2″ from edge to create that flange! Unzip and fill with an 18″ pillow form!

Completed Flanged Pillow

Pillow is complete!

(Do the victory dance again!)

Math for other pillow and flange sizes.

For pillows with a 2″ flange – add 4″ to pillow form width for pillow top size.

For pillows with a 3″ flange – add 6″ to pillow form width for pillow top size

3 Generation NY Beauty Quilt

I was blessed to receive fabric from my Grandmother’s Stash.  Many were very small pieces – no larger or wider than an an inch!  These precious pieces were safely stored until I found the perfect project.  Last spring I found the New York Beauty Quilt and its foundation pieced version by Karen K Stone.

Karen K. Stone

The triangles in the arches range from as small as 1/2″ to larger than 3″.  In addition to being an beautiful pattern for incorporating the tiny pieces from my Grandmother, each foundation pieced 12″  square varied from those around it so this pattern will never create the feared “repeat squares boredom”!

3 Generation NY Beauty Quilt

The long arm quilter worked her magic on the quilt and it has been bound and mounted in the wall space it was designed for (note the samplers reflected in the mirror) .

I took some pictures to send to my mother highlighting some of the fabrics Grandma used to make her dresses.

Red triangles are 1/2" inch and include some of Grandma's fabrics

The second from left red triangle is a single remaining scrap from my first major attempt at quilting in the 1980s.

The center yellow triangle in the upper "sun" are from my Grandmother's Stash

The center yellow triangle in the square with ivory rays is from my Grandmother’s Stash as are many of the small (approx 1″) blue triangles in lower square (detailed in photo below)

Detail of Blue Triangles - some are fabrics from my Grandmother

The second and sixth blue triangles (from the right) are made from the same tiny piece of fabric.  It has little tiny pigs and ducks on it.

Many of the light fabrics in outer arch are from my Grandmother's Stash

I love the quilting swirls the long arm quilter used in the lighter section of this block.

Detail of light colored fabric in outer arch

This detail view shows some of the fabric prints.  Most of the lighter colored fabrics are from my grandmother.

It still amazes me how fabrics from very different decades work so well side-by-side in this pattern. Some of the fabrics are Jinny Beyer fabrics that I purchased as a set of 5″ squares in the 1980s. Others, like the giraffe spot print, are more modern.

The hallway where the quilt is hung receives no direct sunlight – which in Arizona can be very damaging.  I hope I am able to pass this quilt and its storied fabrics to future generations of needleartists!

More pictures (pre-binding and hanging) in original post here.

Embellishment on Jacket Back

I found a simple white linen jacket at an off-price store.  The jacket had great lines, including a rounded back yoke, but the starkness of the white needed something

Embellishments in darker colors, such as blues and purples would be a nice contrast against the white – and would coordinate nicely with darker (AKA: Mom) jeans.

Polymer Clay Goddess Face cabochons encrusted with beading seem to be a theme with me (although my niece recently informed me they are “scary”).  The image in the Destashification Project Banner is the cabochon on the back yoke of this jacket.  The purple and blue beading stand out on the white linen.

Jacket Front

The jacket is the perfect topper for running errands – and it even gets the daughter’s seal of approval.  (OK, “approval” is a bit strong – but she does not cringe in embarrassment when I wear it!)

Now that I look  at this picture, I think the jacket needs a bit more embellishment.  It is still too much stark white – maybe on the packet flaps and extending from the lace on the sleeve.

Beaded Button Detail

The button on the jacket is a fabric covered button encrusted with beads to balance the heavy beading on the cabochon on the back.

Jacket Back

Purse d-Resistance Detail

A Stash Couture summer handbag – with embellishment for fun!

The Stash provided the fabric, the embellishments and even the snaps!

Stash Couture Purse d'Resistance

The pattern was a modified Indygo Junction Streetcar Bag.  The flap just called out for embellishment – and the bag was the perfect size for carrying all the items required for summer travel!

The modifications included enlarging the opening with a gusset, adding multiple internal pockets, and revising the straps.

The purse body and pocket are apricot and dark coral dupioni.

The base of the flap is a yellow linen overlain with a yellow metallic sheer.

The Stash contains several Mother-of-Pearl buckles (I cannot remember from where).  I placed a small one on the outer pocket and a larger one on one of the straps.

Stash Couture Embellishment Detail

The embellishments add that Stash Couture touch – and are just soooo much fun to create!!!  The Goddess cabochon is polymer clay. The larger flowers, leaves, and roses were constructed as detailed in the tutorials.   Silk ribbon details provided color and fill.

Interior of Purse d'Resistance

With the modifications, the interior of the purse is easily accessible and HUGE! I will be able to carry everything I need for summer travel – including my Kindle and a knitting project!

The pen/cell phone/notebook interior pocket adds a bit of whimsy.  The Opal Owl fabric was “rescued” from the original Kindle Cover.

As with most purses, the construction of this purse followed the same basic steps as the Make-Up Bag.

Purse d'Resistance

Light-colored straps raised concerns of appearing “dirty” after use.  So, they were made removable and washable   (and easily replaceable, if need be) by using D-rings and swivel clips.

Feet for keeping base clean(er)

Feet were added in a effort to reduce wear on the dupioni, but I think a wiser plan would have been to use a less delicate fabric for the base.

But the Prom Purse, small and lightweight – just a cell phone, the ticket, and make-up for the touch ups, – is a true necessity for such an event.

Stash Couture Prom Purse

The dress was navy, the shoes were silver…and this was the Purse:

Silver Grey silk dupioni, silk ribbon bluebells, a small piece of  hand marbled fabric, beads, buttons, and bits and pieces of  appropriately colored treasures!

And with one exception – all from The Stash!

The only purchase was the silver “M” on the lower left side.  It provided that personal touch.

Silver and blue are not colors I typically collect, so it took some intensive Stash Searching to find the fabrics and beads – but for such a small project – The Stash had more than enough!

Detail Stash Couture Prom Purse

The wristlet design works well for an evening purse as it is can be worn rather than tucked under one’s arm (or placed on a table and forgotten) as a clutch would.

It also opens sufficiently wide to allow easy access to that all important cell phone so no pictures are missed!

The pattern is my own, although I Vogue 7354 has two options that are similar.

Silk Ribbon Bluebells

I have a small stash of silk and cotton hand marbled fabric pieces.  I use them in Crazy Quilting.  They are all beautiful, but this one really makes this purse special.

She looked beautiful and the purse tied the dress and the shoes together perfectly!

Even the girlfriends were impressed (and wanted one for the next semi-formal!)

As the daughter is only 15, the importance of having a small purse for such an event was not immediately apparent to her.

When she muttered something about “I’ll just use my backpack”  – I gasp loudly, and dropped everything for the three days it took me to finish the purse. 

I think she understands now!

Purses like this one, colors, designs and embellishments of choice, are available through my Etsy site.

Stash Couture Adult Spill Absorber

Small motor skills may diminish in one’s hands after 75 years of serving one’s country and working to provide for one’s family.

However, dignity should not diminish with age…

A small gift for one who has given so much….

Based on Simplicity 2687, this combined the smaller and larger versions and a few additions. It is machine washable and used only items from The Stash.

Tie Detail

The bowtie was hand stitched at the tie ends so that it would retain its shape during washings.

I wish it could be more….

Instant Gratification/Destashification Skirt

My daughters requested skirts – the type with the wide elastic as the waistband.

A trip to the mall was required before I understood what was being requested, but the girls were correct – the skirts were going to be simple and quick to sew!

They got to pick out the fabric.  The Stash provided the rest, including the elastic.

This skirt is a floral linen jacquard blend in pinks, bright green, and a dull grey.  Others included a quilting weight black, coral linen and two of grey linen.

If this print skirt looks longer than most of these skirts, it is.  My 15-year old daughter is 6 feet tall and the length of skirts available in stores is one of the reasons she requested I make her the skirts.

IGD Skirt

The skirt was cut as a rectangle, 5″ longer than the requested (required)  length and 8″ wider than her widest hip measurement.  I would reduce this to no more than 4″ or 5″ now as she thinks this skirt is a bit too “fat”.

Serging once around the rectangle is a good idea to prevent raveling.

I then turned up 1/2″ on the bottom and stitched it down.  Then turned up another 3.5″ to form the hem, but stitched it only in the middle, leaving the first and last 8″ of the hem open (for now).

Notched Upper Edge and pinned elastic.

Along the upper edge, I notched (cut very small triangles – maybe 1/4″) at the center front (fold fabric in half to find) and then again at the two side points (fold in half again).  So the notches were cut at the 1/4 point, the 1/2 point and the 3/4 point on the upper edge.

I cut a piece of 2″ wide elastic the same size as my daughter’s waist.  Pins were used to mark the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 points on the elastic.

In the photo above, the yellow line is 1″ from the upper edge of the skirt fabric.  The elastic should overlap the skirt approximately 1″ for stitching.

Secure and then pull elastic while stitching

To attach the elastic to the skirt, stitch forward and back approximately 1/2″ to secure, and then continue stitching while pulling elastic to align 1/4 notch with 1/4 pin.

Stitching will gather skirt fabric

Once past the 1/4 marks, repeat until stitching reaches the 1/2 marks, and then again until it reaches the 3/4 mark and then to the edge.

Stitch down ends of elastic

Sew center back seam.  Complete the remaining section of the hem.

Stitch ends of elastic to secure.

Instant Gratification

And the Instant Gratification/Destashification Skirt is complete and ready to wear!

AC-Proof Sweater Lace Detail

To ward off the summer indoor chill, the AC-Proof Destashification Sweater was knit.

The pattern used was a combination of two patterns.  The Oriel Lace Cardigan by Kirsten Hipsky is what the cardigan was based on, but the lace pattern came from Bamboozle Cropped Lace Cardigan by Gail Tanquary.

AC-Proof Destatshification Sweater

The yarn is a Bamboo worsted weight from The Stash.  I do not know the name of the yarn.  The color is a warm yellow, not the pale yellow in the detail photo.

The Oriel Lace Cardigan Pattern is a top-down pattern – which I prefer.  No pieces and no seaming.  I have a “stash” of FABS (finished – all but the sleeves) pieced sweaters that I lost interest in. Someday….

Sleeve Lace Detail

The lace on the sleeves is just the first few rows of the lace pattern from the Bamboozle sweater.

The yarn does not have much body – it is “slinky”, more like a rayon.  However, that is one of its benefits.  Sweaters in Arizona need to be “packable”.  Once one returns to the 110 degrees outdoors, it is just too hot to wear or even carry a sweater.

AC-Proof and Wrinkle-Proof!

But this yarn does not wrinkle!  The sweater can be squished into a purse (or maybe a tote) and taken out again when needed!  A quick shake – and AC-Proof again!

AC-Proof and Wrinkle-Proof (OK, Wrinkle-resistant)!  What more could one ask of a sweater!

The links on this page are to the sweater patterns on Ravelry, the ultimate knitting site.  Ravelry is free, but I believe it still requires a password. 

Embellishment Detail

The fabric flower embellishments include a coral rose, shown on the left side of this photo.

They are simply a strip of fabric slightly gathered and rolled up.

1.  Start with a strip of fabric approximately 3″ wide by 12″ long, fold in half length wise and iron flat.

Cut one short end of the fabric so that it tapers toward the fold – I guess one could say it looks like a sword.

Fabric Rose: Start

Fabric Rose - Gathering Stitch and First Fold

2.  Hand stitch (or machine stitch) a gathering stitch along the non-folded edge – through both layers of fabric.

Again, the gathering stitch does not have to be perfectly even or consistent.

4.  First Fold:  Fold the tip of the sword over.  This is a small fold, no more than 1/2″.  Tack down with a stitch or two.

Second Fold: Tip over the Blad

5.  Second Fold:  The second fold is similar to the first fold – same direction, just slightly larger.  These could be considered folding the tip of the sword over the blade of the sword.

Third Fold: Blade over Tip

6.  Third Fold:  Pinch the fabric along the yellow fold line and bring it towards the tip.

After Fold 3

The photo labeled “After Fold 3″ shows how the rose should look when the Third Fold is complete.

Fold Four: same as Fold Three

7.  Fold Four:  Fold four is a repeat of the Third Fold.

After Fold Four and Folding Lines for Fold Five

Pinch along the yellow line and bring it towards the tip as shown in the photo labeled “After Fold Four”.

Tack with a few stitches.

These folds form the petals of the rose.

8.  Fold Five:  Fold along the yellow line, which will bring the “blade” around to the back of the rose.

After Fold Five

Tack down with a few stitches.

9.  Pull gathering thread slightly tighter and roll it around rose, taking tacking stitches as needed, until about 2″ of sword blade remains.

10.  Final Fold:  To “hide” the raw edge, fold it down along the yellow line and tack stitch to the rose.

11. …and the Rose is complete! Tack stitch onto a base fabric and enjoy!

I have been making Fabric Roses for a number of years.  Below is picture of the roses on my wedding veil – from 1992!

Fabric Flowers Detail from Rose Top

All of the flowers except the coral roses are made the same way. The stiffness of the fabric and the locations of the “tacking down” stitches create the variations.

To make these, all that is needed is a circle of fabric.

There are a number of ways to cut a fabric circle.  My favorite was always to use a pan lid as a template, but for the flowers I did not want a pen or ink line.  Instructions for creating circles from squares (no pen or ink lines) are included at the end of this tutorial.

Fabric circle approx. 6" diameter

1.  Start with a fabric circle approximately twice the diameter of the desired size of the finished fabric flower.    This 6″ circle will create a 2.5″ to 3″ flower.

2.  Hand stitch with a running stitch approximately 1/4″ – 1/2″ from the edge of the circle – all the way around.  Fabric that frays extremely easily should be stitched 1/2″ from the edge.

Fabric circles showing Stitching Line

The stitches do not need to be neat or even.

Stitching Completed

Balloon Shape - just pull the thread

3.  Pull the thread to gather the circle into a balloon shape.

Balloon Shape Right Side Up

4.  Turn the balloon shape over.

Balloon Shape with Center Tack Stitch

5.  Place the Balloon Shape on the base fabric or item to be embellished and squish down slightly with your hand.  This will help “deflate” the balloon a bit and get the gathering stitches to lay flatter.

6.  Tack stitch the center of the flower to the base two or three times.

Tack Stitch to create petal

7. To create petals, bring your needle up midway between the flower center and the edge.  Then pass it through the very edge of the flower and back down through at the midway point.  Pull the thread taut and tack a few times on the back of the base.

Additional Petals

8.  Additional petals can be created by bringing your needle up in the flower center and passing it through the top layer of the balloon and then back down through the center.

Fabric Flower with Petals

Each tack stitch will create petals and give the flower dimension.

Beautiful!

Fabric flower with beaded center

9.  If desired, beads or small buttons can be stitched into the flower center.

Finished Fabric Flower with Fabric Leaf

Tomorrow: How to create the leaves!

Fabric Circles from Fabric Squares:

Basically, the squares is folded into a smaller square, then a triangle and then cut.  Precision is not needed, required or even desired!

Sheer Fabric - 6" square showing fold lines

1.  Start with a sort-of square of fabric.

First Fold

2.  Finger fold (do not iron) the square along the two fold lines.

Folded Square showing Diagonal Fold Line

This will create a smaller square that should be folded diagonally.

Folded Fabric showing Cutting Line

3.  Finger fold (do not iron) along the diagonal fold line creating a triangle.

Slightly curved cut

4.  Cut the fabric as shown, along a slightly curved line.

5.  Open the triangle and voila!  A circle! Or in this case, two circles!!  They may not perfect circles, but they are perfect for making fabric flowers!

Rose Embellishments

While searching through The Stash I found some small pieces of dark rose colored silks.  One was a sheer and one was a duipioni.  Neither was large enough to make a top individually, but together they would….

Simplicity 2922

In the Pattern Stash, I found Simplicity 2922,  which is still available.

Rose Silk Top with Embellishments

The yoke was cut from the duipioni and the body from the sheer.  There was just enough of the sheer to line the front.  The yoke closes with shimmery rose colored buttons from The Stash.

The Stash also contained a number of small pieces of other silks and sheers in the pink/rose family.

Let the embellishments begin!

Embellishment Detail

The leaves are created by folding in a fabric edge, then folding the fabric in thirds.  A gathering stitch is made across the open ends and a dimensional leaf is the result!

The sheer flowers are just yo-yo’s with gathers to the back, then tacked to create petals.

Embellishment Detail

The coral rose was created by first hand sewing a tube of the fabric, gathering it slightly, and then rolling it.

The beads were added as accents.  The larger beads are freshwater pearls.

As the temperatures in Arizona soar into the triple digits, I hope to have a number of opportunities to wear this top.

Stash Couture Luggage Set

I had already engineered and completed the Carry-On, but the dresses and skirts would need a dress-sized garment bag.

Butterick 3934

I had some pieces of the fabric used for the Carry-On left in The Fabric Stash, so I dug through The Pattern Stash and found Butterick 3934, which I am fairly sure has been discontinued (it is dated 2003).

The Garment Bag front was almost exactly the size of the blue floral fabric I had left.  I did, however, have to piece the red toile to create the back.  As the red toile was quilting weight, it was interfaced, lined, and quilted.

I did have to purchase the upholstery weight yellow gingham for the sides and shoe pocket, so this is not quite a 100% Destashification Project.

Garment Bag Back

The pattern has a center zipper.  I moved it to the sides.  My Stash contains several 24″ and 72″ metal upholstery zippers still proudly exhibiting their 50 and 99 cent clearance stickers.  The 72″ zipper worked great for this project.

Shoe Pockets Closed

I used one of the shorter zippers to engineer a set of four shoe pockets.

The pockets were sized to fit two pairs of my shoes – for this trip it was sandals.

Shoes Pockets with Shoes

No heel or scuff marks from traveling as the pockets are designed to keep the shoes separated!

As the dwindling stash of coordinating fabric would allow, the Garment Bag was reinforced with cording and fabric strips, especially at the handles and edges.

Hardware Stores are one of my favorite places to wander.  A true hardware store has drawers and drawers of different connectors, clips, handles, etc.  I knew I would need hardware as clasps, but did not want to add too much weight, so I choose aluminum clips.  The D-rings were in The Stash.

Aluminum Clips

D-rings

Finished in time for the graduation trip, the dresses and skirts arrived needing only minor touch-ups with an iron!

For a few hours of sewing, I now have a Coordinated Tote, Carry-On, and Garment Bag. The total cost for Stash Couture Luggage Set was less than $10!

Stash Couture Luggage Set

Striped Skirt with embellishments - left front

I have always loved Marcy Tilton’s Vogue Skirt Pattern (Vogue 8561).  The pattern must have been in The Stash since it was first printed.  I just could not find the perfect fabric.

Vogue 8561

There is one fabric that I will break the Destashification Rules for and that is Stretch Linen, especially when less than $2.00 per yard.  This pin-striped Stretch Linen was in two pieces, but felt I had finally found the perfect fabric for the skirt.

So I took it home and pre-washed it…..and one piece shrank considerably while the other piece did not! The stripes on the two pieces were no longer the same width apart!

I almost gave up on project until I realized that the difference in the stripes could be used to emphasize the design elements of the skirt.

Striped skirts with embellishments - front

Before I started cutting, though, I went to Sewing Pattern Review to review comments of others who had made the skirt.  After reviewing all the pictures, I realized the March Tilton pattern was a straighter skirt than I had envisioned.

Neue Mode 22678

No problem, I was sure I had a long full skirt pattern in The Stash.  Unbelievably, I did not!  So I downloaded this pattern and created similar design elements to the original Marcy Tilton pattern.

Striped Skirt Front Pocket

The pockets were cut directly from the Vogue pattern.  However, I used a very simple Foundation Piecing method to make them.  I scanned in the pocket pieces and then reduced them until they were the correct size.  After printing them out, I could sew directly on the printed line to get the curved and pointed shape perfectly!

Marcy Tilton’s instructions for cutting the bias pieces provided guidance.  I cut the pieces larger than required, steam ironed them and then made the final cuts!

In addition to fabric, my stash contains numerous embellishments.  I used beads, buttons, buckles, and ribbons to embellish the skirt.  The X’s on the pockets and topstitching followed guidance in the original Vogue patterns.   I placed small pieces of scotch tape over the pocket edges and drew the X’s on the tape to reduce “mishaps”.

Striped Skirt - back pocket

Stretch Linen is very comfortable, but being white it required a lining.  The Stash provided a white cotton to use for that purpose.

I wore the skirt to my daughter’s graduation dinner with a black top and received a number of compliments.

(…and I would probably break the Destashification Rules for Stretch Silk, too!)

Smocked and Beaded Linen Top

Smocked and Beaded Linen Top

This is a vintage dress pattern:  Patt-O-Rama 8337-T.  It even had the original smocking transfers.

Patt-O-Rama 8337-T

I liked the design of this dress because the front is shaped.  It almost forms a “Y”.  The upper portion is quite wide which allows for the smocking, but the pattern narrows quickly to the waist.  This eliminates the volume typically associated with smocked garments.

Smocking Dots on Linen

This pattern front and the “smocking dots” were also shaped to create a true bustline.  When I discovered the dots were no longer iron-on-able, I was going to try the pleating machine, but it only pleats in a straight line.  So, transfer paper and disappearing marking pen…..

The fabric is a cream tissue weight linen – perfect for Arizona’s heat.  But, perhaps not-so-perfect for smocking.  The linen was just a bit too stiff.

Beaded Smocking Detail

I added beads at each smocking point.

Smocked and Beaded Linen Top and Jean Skirt

The top was made to coordinate with an embellished jean skirt I am currently working on.  More embellishments to follow…

Jean Skirt Embellishment Details

…and finally, the top with a coordinating sweater – required for AC chill chasing!

Love this sweater!

Stash Couture Kindle Cushion

The Kindle required a cover that:

1. Providing cushioning while in the Purse.
2. FIT!
3. Was Stash Couture!

An earlier attempt met Requirement #1, but its remake no longer met Requirement #2 – so it was not too useful!

Crazy Quilting is a favorite activity and I love making these little “Beaded Goddess Faces”.

The Stash provided the beads, the polymer clay and mold for the face, the fabric, the piping, the embroidery threads, ribbons, button, and even the batting!

Kindle Cushion

The only purchase was the Bias Binding – in orange!  I never use orange.  I was thinking yellow, but the binding tends to attract the most dirt which yellow would show….so orange it was!

Beaded Goddess

Love the beaded face.  So much fun to create!

…And best of all – the Kindle fits perfectly!

Stash Couture Carry-On and Market Bag

The Stash
Couture Matched Luggage Set!

The Carry-On met the list of requirements:

1. Meets airline size limits.
2. Lightweight – According to my bathroom scale it weighs less than 1 lb!
3. Colorful -
4. Closes with a metal zipper.
5. Has a zippered end pocket for cell phone and Driver’s License and quick access side pockets for the magazines/Kindle, writing utensil, boarding pass and snacks.
6. Still working on the “Semi-secured” Name Tag….

To minimize searching for “where did I put that?”, the outside pocket(s) are on one side only, but are doubled.

Stash Couture Carry-On

The visible side pocket is divided into three sections:  for boarding pass, writing utensil and water bottle. Hidden behind it is another pocket that  extends the entire width between the handles and will fit a magazine or the Kindle.

The ends of the Carry-On were quilted for structure.  The body was not – to minimize the weight of the bag.

Pocket on Carry-On

The zipper used to create the cell phone and Driver’s License pocket was also from The Stash.  It was marked 55 cents!  It was the perfect color (Mystic Blue) for the bag!

Stash Zipper - 55 cents

Total cost for the Carry-On was 52 cents.  I had to purchase 2 yards of cotton piping filler.

….and I still have enough of the fabrics to make another bag! Perhaps a dress (suit) bag!

Stash Couture Market Bags

Fabric for the bag bodies is upholstery or drapery weight. Pockets are of various weights.

100% Destash Market Bag

The fabric used for the body of the blue bag (right) was also used to make the handles.  The yellow twill tape added both color and strength. Stashed quilting weight toile for the pocket – and even a laundry tape name label (from my MIL’s stash!) – make this a 100% Destash Market Bag.

Plexiglass was cut to fit in the base of each bag.  It not only adds structural stability to the bag – but can be easily removed, washed, and sanitized!

Market Bags

The bags are different sizes – more of function of fabric width than any design or intention.  The blue bag to the right is HUGE at 9″ by 18″ and 14″ tall!

The green bag shown on the left is taller, but not as wide as the blue bag.  It is 9″ by 15″ and 17″ tall.

Trim on Green Market Bag

The trim on the green bag was – (oh! the horror!) purchased for this project! (Gasp! Gasp!).  Luckily, discounts made it slightly less painful.  The Plan was to purchase just the wide navy blue grosgrain ribbon, but the green floral ribbon was a perfect color match – (and it was 50% off) – so I just had to….

The Stash did not have any heavier weight fabric for a contrasting base for the blue damask print, so I quilted a quilting weight Christmas fabric. The Stash provided appropriate batting.  A very narrow red and white gingham ribbon was added to the blue cotton webbing used for the handles. Both were from The Stash.

Blue Market Bag Detail

100% Destash Market Bag Blue and Re

The Stash also contained a swivel clasp left over from a conference name tag.  I added it just below the laundry name tag – it may come in handy at some point!

.…So this one is also a 100% Destash Bag!

At some point during Stash Development, giraffe fabrics seemed to speak to me.  I used small amounts of three of giraffe fabrics in the bags.  In the Green Market Bag Close-up there are blue giraffes on the pocket fabric, although most of them appear upside down in that photo.

Trim on Giraffe Market Bag

In the Giraffe Market Bag shown to the left, one giraffe print was used for the bag and a different giraffe print for the pocket.  The base and the handles were made of dark brown microsuede.  The microsuede handles seemed to stretch, so the purchase (again, the “P” word!!!) of the red nylon webbing became necessary.

Although I claim not to be a rick rack person, The Stash says otherwise.  So, I used some on this bag and am rather pleased with the results.

To attest to the age of my some of my stash – the ecru twill tape under the rick rack was in its original wrapping  – and the price was 15 cents!

I am considering posting a How-to for the bags.  They really are quite fun (and very easy) to make.  For the first one, I measured and re-measured and re-measured.  By the third bag, I had figured out a non-Math version – just some folding in half – which invited a lot more imagination – and produced a lot less frustration!!!

Stash Couture Workout Wear Close-up

A very plain white zip-up french terry cover-up becomes couture courtesy of “The Stash”.

This Sun Face motif was placed across the upper back of the cover-up.

The center is a simple purple and gold polymer clay sun face made from a mold glued to felt and beaded.

Two stash fabrics circles were fused down and then the edges were machine zig-zagged.  The pink is a metallic sheer.  I was not sure the fusible would work with a sheer, but it did not “leak” through at all.

The swirly “air currents” were then hand stitched.

A jacquard ribbon was zig-zagged over the empire waist seam to form a casing and then a pink/gold twisted cord was pulled through it.

The sleeves and one pocket received some small swirly air currents.

Total Time:  2 Hours

Total Cost: $0

I took two pictures during the “Making Of”.  I am not one to sketch the design.  I have tried, but the finished product never looks like the sketch – it just seems to evolve as I work on it.

Beaded Sun Face Motif

This marbled-look fabric really made the purple/gold sun face stand out.

I kept trying to add sun-rays, but they just didn’t seem to work.

Making of Cover-Up with sun rays

I decided on the hand stitched “air currents” instead.

Finished Cover-Up Motif

Love It!

So much fun to make!  Wore it to aerobics yesterday and got so many compliments!

Does anyone know if polymer clay is washable?

Destashification Dress

The fabric, pattern, thread, interfacing (yes,interfacing) and thread were all from the stash!

Apologies for the self-photograph.

Fabric was a knit, content unknown.  It is not 100% cotton, perhaps some rayon, perhaps some polyester.   Pre-washed as a precaution.

The bodice pattern is loosely based on a (very) old Butterick pattern I use to upcycle T-shirts.  I used the asymmetrical skirt portion from Butterick 5485: http://butterick.mccall.com/b5485-products-11198.php?page_id=155

The colors are a peachy orange and various browns – not overly fabulous….

But, a sleeveless, extremely comfortable knit dress will get much use in the heat of Arizona – even if it is not overly fabulous!

Once I completed the skirt portion I noted that when the “flap” moved it allowed the hemmed edges (finished with a serger threaded with not-even-close-colored thread) to show.  So, I went back to the stash to see what I might have to cover the edges and maybe add the little something that was missing from this dress!

The stash contains ribbon, both plain and patterned in a variety of textures.  Plain colored ribbon did not add anything to the dress, and textured (upholstery) trim was too heavy.

One green/blue/yellow ribbon grabbed my attention, even though it was a “wired” ribbon. When I held the ribbon against the dress, the colors just jumped….

Trim on Dress Hemmed Edges

I removed the wires (love using tools!).

…and although the ribbon is only visible if the flap flaps, it added the extra something the dress needed!

As the fabric did not have much structure, the empire waist tended to sag, even when interfaced.  To counter the problem, I added a wide piece of elastic (also from the stash) across the front, securing it at both side seams.

Close-up of dress top

The result is shown in the close-up below.  The elastic added stability without putting the strain on the fabric.  Next time I use the modified pattern, I may attempt to serge the elastic to the entire length of the front band to add even more stability and strength.

Wore the dress to the airport!  So comfortable! Many compliments!  May add some beads at some point…

Four quilts

A table runner ..and plans for so much more.

It was so much fun!….and I estimate I used at least 15 yards of my stash!

This is the first quilt, a One Block Wonder.  The fabric is Celtic Illumination and was actually two celtic knot pillow tops, which can be seen on the left side of the picture.  It is for my son who moved into a new apartment.  Love the colors!

One Block Wonder Quilt

It was a great deal of fun to make. I just wanted to try the cubes and enjoyed them as well.  I may make a cubed quilt!

Close up of cubes

These pictures were all taken prior to the quilt being sent to Long Arm Quilter.  More pictures after it returns!

Every project creates more scraps for the Scrap Stash!

Every project creates more scraps for the stash!

The small pile on the far right were deemed too small for saving.  The remainder wait for the next destashification inspiration!

The second quilt was a New York Beauty Quilt.  If there ever was a Destashification Project  – it is a New York Beauty Quilt!  Pieces of every size!

New York Beauty Quilt block

The outermost ring of light-colored triangles were cut from fabrics that belonged to my grandmother.  This picture was taken as I was trying to decide what fabric to use to form the “missing ring”.

I used paper piecing to create this quilt.  The triangles varied in size, but some were no larger than 1/4″!  I was able to use many of the very small fabric scraps I received from my grandmother’s stash! (Fabric Stashing runs in my family!)

It was great fun to see how the colors blended or contrasted to develop into blocks for this quilt.

This quilt is also at the Long Arm Quilter.  Can’t wait for its return!

I don’t have any pictures of the other projects.. will post as soon as I do!

• Bins in the Garage!
• Drawers in the Dining Room!
• Baskets on the Shelves!
• Patterns Galore!
• “Forgot I had that’s” in undisclosed locations

I have had garage sales, made donations to charitable organizations, gifted, gifted and gifted …. and yet the stash persists and mysteriously appears to be increasing!  (I am fairly certain it is self-replicating!)

At the time I purchased each and every item in the stash – it was because I loved it!  Each item had color or lines or a tactile sense or other attribute that called my name and persuaded me that I needed it!  I was easily convinced that with that one (or two, or six) items, I could create the perfect _________ (dress, skirt, quilt, purse, sweater, pillow….)___________.

“Now the time is upon us….”

Let the Destastification begin!

The Destashification Project has only two rules!

1. Create! Create! Create!  “Stash Couture” awaits!
2. All creations must be constructed (at least 90%) from “The Stash”… the cost of the remaining 10% cannot exceed $10 (per item).

Can’t wait to get started!!