In-store wine tastings have become more popular lately. Most of the time, I check out what’s being poured just to keep walking, uninterested in working through the complete Barefoot or Fetzer lines on my lunch break… But there is a wine store that does things a bit differently. Every Friday, Purdy’s Wine & Liquor in Saratoga Springs sets up a wine tasting that would shock most wine store regulars.

Yesterday, Groth’s 2006 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon was being poured—along with 7 other sensational wines ranging from a Willamette Valley Pinot Gris, to a shockingly original $20 screw top Sonoma Chardonnay that tasted of minerals, popcorn, and mushrooms with a farm-like nose, to the Telmo Rodrigues Tempranillo from Toro, Spain that I am drinking tonight.

Despite the fact that I was once again dumbstruck by Groth’s understated, harmonious flagship Cabernet, I opted for the much less costly Tempranillo from Toro, Spain.

Rich fatty aromas of cherry, smoke and maple sausage held my attention on a short leash between sips that were dominated by blackberry, licorice, cured meat, and a prickly acidity. This is an aromatic and flavor enigma—round and fleshy with berries but wrought with smokey proteins and herbs. I find Dehesa Gago delightfully different, but very approachable—loved for different reasons by a range of palates.

$14. Enjoy!

-Rob

August 14, 2009

Fashionable and food-centric San Sebastian (called Donostia in the Basque language) is a sliver of paradise. A magnificent sandy beach, shaped like a shell, wraps around the sparkling bay of La Concha, framed by a mountain at each end. Running the scenic two mile beach promenade burns off calories between meals and finishes at an installation of Eduardo Chillida’s sculptures.

The Basque people are master seafarers, avid fishermen, and superlative chefs who exhibit their culinary mettle on every corner of Donostia. A morning visit to the fish market is a primer on the 50-odd varieties of fish that will be served that day at local restaurants.  Old town overflows with bars serving tapas (called pintxos here) featuring seafood, cured meats, local produce and lots of mayonnaise, either stacked on slices of bread or held together with a toothpick.  Some of our most memorable and haute-cuisine pintxos were served at Aloña Berri and Bar Bergara across the bridge from Old Town.  But Old Town has the density of  pintxos bars with patrons spilling out onto the sidewalks and pedestrian streets.  It takes no effort at all to sample an amazing array of pintxos here in just a few minutes.  Traditionally, it’s self-serve and when it’s time to pay, let the waiter know what you ate.  I just wish we had fast food like this in America!

The New York Times article by Eric Asimov on August 12 spotlighted some of our favorite Riojas, including the singular wines of Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia, producer of Vina Tondonia. Gracious Maria Jose, great-grand daughter of Lopez de Heredia’s founder, is as passionate about her family’s wines as the history of the Rioja region. The family is determined to continue their artisanal traditions while at the same time embracing modern viticultural practices. A defining element of their wines is the extended aging both in barrel and in the bottle. A Rioja Gran Reserva normally receives at least 24 months of barrel aging and a further 36 months of bottle aging.

At Lopez de Heredia, Gran Reservas receive approximately 8 years of barrel aging, followed by an additional 8 years of bottle aging, depending on the vintage. So unsurprisingly, the most impressionable part of our June visit were the cobweb filled subterranean cellars. Spiders are encouraged as they are natural predators of mites that attack the corks, a serious threat in a cellar storing wines from the early 1900’s. A legendary Rioja producer, the wines of Bodega R. Lopez de Heredia must be tasted to be believed. Eric Asimov’s New York Times article is a great read for anyone interested in Rioja wines. To read the article, follow this link:

http://www.nytimes.com/pages/dining/index.html

Eric Asmiov’s favorite Riojas are from ten different bodegas and have wines from nine of these wineries in stock:

Bodegas R. Lopez de Heredia:

1968 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco Rioja ($327.00)

1981 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco Rioja ($88.00)

1989 Vina Tondonia Reserva Blanco Rioja ($45.00)

1997 Vina Tondonia Rosado Rioja ($27.99)

1981 Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva Rioja ($102.00)

1987 Vina Tondonia Gran Reserva Rioja ($99.00)

2000 Vina Bosconia Reserva Rioja ($32.00)

Faustino: 1996 Faustino I Gran Reserva Rioja ($37.00) One of the most amazing values in a Gran Reserva, 1996 Faustino is elegant and silky with notes of cherry fruit and cedar.

La Rioja Alta 1997 Vina Arana Reserva Rioja ($27.99)

Luberri 2005 Seis de Luberri Rioja ($15.99)

Marques de Murrieta 2004 Reserva Rioja ($19.99)

Bodegas Muga

2000 Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja ($65.00)

2004 Torre Muga Rioja ($90.00)

2004 Muga Seleccion Especial Rioja ($45.00)

2005 Muga Reserva Rioja ($25.99)

Telmo Rodriguez 2000 Altos de Lanzaga Rioja ($50.00)

Hermanos Pecina

2007 Senorio de P.Pecina Cosecha

Rioja ($13.99)

2000 Senorio de P. Pecina Crianza ($22.99) & Reserva ($29.99)

New Txacolis from the Basque country:

2008 Ulacia Getariako Txakolina ($19.99) The Getariako style is the most effervescent style of Txacoli. Ulacia is a veritable explosion of frothy apple and juicy melon flavors. Crisp and refreshing, this is just what a Txacoli should be.

2008 Urki GetariakoTxacoli ($21.99) Light and spritzy, with green apple and pear notes, this elegant white Txacoli tastes just like the wines we sipped in San Sebastian. It pairs wonderfully with any shellfish!

2007 Kurmisti, Guipuzcoa ($13.99) An non-D.O. Txacoli, Kurmisti is loaded with aromatics. Flavors of orchard fruit with moderate acidity make up this easy drinking white. At 10.5% alcohol, this is a light treat on a hot afternoon.

NEW PRODUCTS

Portuguese Ceramic Linguica Asadors Imagine a bar full of patrons, each clutch of friends tending a flaming terracotta pig, methodically flipping their chorizos and linguicas until they’re perfectly charred on all sides while they drink and gossip. It’s the ideal combination of friendship, food, and a dose of fire to keep everyone on their toes. Portuguese pig asadors: $15.00-$25.00 depending on style & size

Manná brand sardine pates: These are in little single-serving tins that are absolutely perfect for picnics or trail-side snacks. $1.29 each

Liquid caramel in jars and squeeze bottles. Homemade flan is the best, but that whole bit about caramelizing sugar to make the sauce? A pain, and potentially a scorched mess. Make your life easier: Micau brand caramelo liquido in tube or jar

Green Piquillo Peppers Usually picked and roasted red, try these roasted green piquillos in recipes from The Spanish Table cookbook.

Spanish and Portuguese olive dishes, new Spanish sangria pitchers, big yellow ceramic mortars!

FLAMENCO PERFORMANCES

Saturday August 15th Casablanca Restaurant and Lounge, 113 Virgina St. 9pm and 10pm featuring

Savannah Fuentes, Esther Marion, Rafael Vargas 206(448-3590) Tickets $10 in advance www.brownpapertickets.com

Sunday August 16th Zamani Flamenco, 8:00 – 10:00 pm at Kristos Eastlake no cover Information: 206-588.8885 www.zamaniflamenco.com

Saturday August 22nd Carmona Flamenco, featuring guest artist Ana Montes. 8:00 p.m., Solstice Cafe, 4116 University Way $20.00 information: 206.932.4067 www.fanw.org

SPANISH WINE DINNER

Join us at Taberna del Alabardero for a selected tasting of Jorge Ordonez wines, on Wednesday Sept. 9th, 6 p.m. Special attendance by Sara Floyd, M.S. who will talk about the five wines, each paired with a separate course. $75.00 (tax and service charge not included). For reservations and information: 206.448.8884, for more details, click this link:

http://www.alabardero.com/seattle/2-September-09Jorge%20Ordonez%20DinnerWEB.pdf

Have a great week!

Sharon Baden and Steve Winston, Owners

Spanish Table

posto atrasado sobre a mais recente reunião da confraria do texugo.
fizemos um pequeno painél de vinhos espanhóis.
quatro às cegas. depois um gentilmente cedido pelo vencedor do sorteio, o confrade chico ferrão. e para finalizar uma surpresa cortesia deste que vos narra.
vamos aos tomados às cegas.

M2 de Matallana Ribera del Duero 2004 (Telmo Rodriguez). R$175,78 na mistral.
elaborado com tempranillo , maturado por 13 meses em carvalho. 95 RP, 91 WS, 93 no guia campsa.
sou fã confesso do basco telmo rodriguez. este vinho traz aroma complexo e refinado, frutado, lavanda, violeta, um pouco animal. na boca muito equilibrado. bom corpo. redondo, quente e longo. foi o campeão da noite.

Pétalos del Bierzo 2006 (Descendientes de J. Palacios). RP 91, R$108,90 na mistral.
da fria região de bierzos vem este grande vinho de alvaro palacios feito com a casta local mencia.
um vinho redondo, quente e picante. frutado no nariz e com taninos muito bem resolvidos. ficou em segundo lugar, num empate técnico com o quarto vinho.

Paisajes VII Cecias 2005 (Paisajes y Viñedos) RP92 R$195,80 na mistral.
um rioja de vinhedos de mais de 85 anos de garnacha. traz frutas vermelhas, goiabada, couro. redondo e de bom corpo. acabou sendo o pior colocado. mas ainda assim um grande vinho

Inspiración Valdemar Edición Limitada 2003 (Bodegas Valdemar) 70% tempranillo, 10% graciano e 20% de castas experimentais. WS93, R$262,90 na mistral.
robusto e macio. no nariz madeira, caixa de charuto, baunilha, manteiga, coco. segundo colocado mas foi o favorito durante grande parte da noite. talvez o mais comentado.

terminada a degustação abrimos um rioja viña salceda 2004, um best buy de R$72,59 tb da mistral.

mas o mais interessante veio ao final da noite. pensei em abrir um espanhol mais velhinho.
observei na adega umas gotinhas, uma espécie de vazamento. pensei, descubro qual vazou, abro. se não estiver bom procuro outro.
era um rioja, martinez bujanda reserva garnacha 1991. comprado coincidentemente tb na mistral há sabe-se lá quantos anos…
a cápsula saiu na mão e para nossa decepção a rolha estava afundada aproximadamente uns 2 cm.
esperávamos pelo pior. mas decantado, com a cor quase tijolo, tinha um excelente aroma. servidos todos os (a esta altura bastante alegres e barulhentos ) confrades, o resultado foi um raro silêncio respeitoso. diria-se quase religioso. lembrei naquele momento da razão da paixão de muitos de nós pelos vinhos. pelo mistério que pode surpreender. duvido que tome novamente outra garrafa do mesmo vinho ( ou de outro qualquer) em tais condições. estava fantástico. talvez o processo de envelhecimento acidental nos tenha levado numa viagem no tempo para o futuro. para daqui 20 anos! lembrei do livro do matt krammer e das falsas verdades que aprendemos sobre conservação de vinhos. um acidente, muito feliz, nos deu um fechamento de noite completamente único e inesquecível. ( pelo menos para mim…!).
e saravá!

Al Muvedre is a great value wine of 100% Monstrell grapes. Another winner by Telmo. If you read our blog, you will notice that we have a definite preference for Iberian wines. We love the full bodied Spanish monstrell wines of Jumilla. Telmo’s Al Muvedre is not from Jumilla but from Alicante! This wine has serious dark fruit. Well balanced and good structure. Bright and Clean finish. A good sipping wine.

Basa 2006 is a great white wine. We were at Sam’s Wine Store, looking for a wine to go with summer. While we took about 20 minutes to check out the Spanish whites. I did notice that there was only one lonely bottle of Basa left. I figured the wine was popular. I was right! Wow! Best white wine I have tasted. Not bad for about 11 dollars. Full of fruit flavor and clean at the end. The creator, besides nature, is Telmo Rodríguez. Here is another article on this great wine.

Bodega: Cía. de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez (VIña 105)
País: España
Región: Castilla y León (Cigales)
Año: 2006
Tipo: Tinto
Castas: Garnacha, Tempranillo
Alcohol: 13.00º

Precio: Aprox. 6,50 € (en Vilaviniteca)

Nota de Cata: Color rubí granate muy intenso, con menisco muy brillante. Aroma limpio, muy frutal, con fruta escarchada, con abundantges notas balsámicas (tomillo, hierbas aromáticas). En boca es rico, sabroso, con muy buena acidez, largo y equilibrado.

Opinión Personal: Correcto. Algo “animal”, pero predomina la fruta.

Me pega con: Perdiz escabeche (por cierto, brutal la que tienen en el Quimet & Quimet)