Spaulding Gray’s Review of The Cheese Show on Martha Stewart

I know I said “Got Milk” was next up in Cheese 101… but after The Lady and I watched Martha Stewart’s Cheese Show –twice – I made the executive decision to change the format a bit and review MS’s show.

The Lady loves Martha Stewart and wishes she had more time to watch her show. Also The Lady is still pissed over the whole “going to the pokey thing” and contends that had MS been a man, she would have never had to clean the warden’s office or whatever befell her during those dark days…but I digress…

Martha really had it going on with The Cheese Show. She concentrated on American Artisanal Cheesemakers (a passion of mine as well) and began with a few facts about this growing industry:

1. Twenty years ago, there were less than 100 artisanal cheesemakers in the U.S. Today there are around 400.
2. Because the show featured Vermont artisanal cheesemakers, most of these statistics are Vermont-only: In Vermont, there were 11,000 dairies in 1950; today there are now only about 1100.
3. And while the number of Vermont dairies has drastically declined; the number of  Vermont artisanal cheesemakers has doubled over the last decade.
4. A little more than 50% of the artisanal cheesemakers in Vermont make cheese from cows’ milk; 25% use goats’ milk and the remainder make their cheeses from sheeps’ milk.

The first segment of the show introduced 5 Vermont artisanal cheesemakers:

1. Former Literary Agent, Angela Miller and her husband moved to Vermont and bought the historic Consider Stebbins Bardwell Farm. Located in the Champlain Valley, this farm founded in 1864 by Consider Bardwell was the home of the first cheesemaking co-op in Vermont. Their “Rupert”, an aged, raw Jersey cow milk cheese placed 3^rd in “Best of Show” at the 2009 American Cheese Society Competition.  They also raise and milk goats on their farm.
2. Hannah and Greg of Blue Ledge Farms, both landscape artists, came to Vermont to raise their children and create a sustainable lifestyle and business built on mutual respect for the land, the consumer and most of all the animals. They raise and milk a combination of Alpine, Lamancha and Nubian goats. As with all the cheesemakers MS featured, Blue Ledge has won many awards for their cheeses.
3. Repentant Lawyers John and Janine Putnam make Alpine-style cheese on their Thistle Hill Farm in North Pomfret, Vermont. Along with their four children and their 40+ Jersey cows (of which 20-21 are milked), they make certified organic Tarentaise cheese. This cheese is made in copper vats, essential to the development of the proper flavor (the Gruyere The Lady made at Roth Kase was also made in copper vats for the same reason).
4. Willow Hill Farm in Milton, Vermont is another certified organic dairy that makes both cows’ milk and sheeps’ milk cheeses. They also have a “u pick” certified organic blueberry patch. Sheeps’ milk is the richest milk of the three main milks used to make cheese (Cows’ milk and goats’ milk being the other two)and the sheeps’ milk yield is also the smallest. In addition to the small yield, sheep have the highest multiple births and these factors make sheep farming the most labor intensive in dairy farming.
5. Last, but certainly not least, we met the two men who own and run Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vermont. These two artisans built 22K square feet underground vaults to ripen cheeses they buy from artisanal cheesemakers throughout Vermont. They buy the green and un-ripened cheeses; use the “recipes” of the cheesemakers to ripen the cheeses; and then market and sell the cheeses. This frees the small cheesemakers to concentrate on what they do best: make cheese.

Martha also briefly introduced, Anne Saxelby, of Saxelby Cheesemongers, who specializes in American Artisanal cheeses and sells them from a stall at the Essex Street Market on the Lower east Side of Manhattan. If The Lady and I have one criticism of the show, it is that we would have loved to learn more about this woman whose passion in life is bringing American Artisanal cheeses to the plates of everyone in Manhattan. She spent two years at Murray’s Cheese Shop (which The Lady swears it the Mecca of cheese); then an apprenticeship at Connecticut’s Cato Corner Farms and finished with six months touring cheese shops and cheesemakers in Europe.

The second segment of the show was an interview with Murray’s VP, Liz Thorpe, who presented a cheese sampler for the audience to taste using 5 cheeses from the aforementioned Vermont Cheesemakers. MS also plugged Liz’s new book, “The Cheese Chronicles” (which The Lady dashed out to buy and will review here in the near future). Liz has been in the cheese biz for 8 years and it all started with a visit to a small cheese shop in Manhattan and the rest is…as they say… history…

Liz was quite down-to-earth regarding the cheese plate she constructed: “Something old; something new; something stinky and something blue”. She built the cheese plate from 12 o’clock starting with the mildest of the cheeses featured: Blue Ledge’s Crottina (from goats’ milk) and proceeded to Consider Bardwell’s Dorset (a raw, aged Jersey Cow milk cheese). The third cheese on the plate was Willow Hill’s Autumn Oak (the only sheeps’ milk cheese on the plate). Then it was onto Thistle Hill’s Tarentaise, a robust and nutty Alpine-style cheese reminiscent of a European Beaufort. (Liz explained she would select this cheese over any cheddar when making a grilled cheese sandwich). The last cheese was Bayley Hazen Blue from The Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm which according to Liz had a crumbly consistency and a flavor that reminded her of popcorn.

The audience was thrilled to learn that each of them would be receiving a copy of Liz’s new book.

The next segment featured Lisa Schwartz and her Rainbeau Ridge Farm in Bedford, New York (a mere 5 miles from MS home). Lisa milks 35 Alpine goats twice daily and also runs a community agriculture partnership which sells organic, seasonal fruits and vegetables to the locals. And as if cheesemaking and farming weren’t enough, Lisa finds time to teach the local children how to make cheese and grow veggies: to teach them to connect to the food they eat.

Lisa began with 2 goats in 2002 and customers that were primarily friends and family. She and Martha made a “farmers cheese” together during this segment; a recipe that any of us could do at home with favorable results.

Lisa, like Liz, has a new book: “Over the Rainbeau” which is available on her website.

The fourth segment featured Terrance Brennan, Chef-Proprietor of Artisanal Fromagerie, Bistro and Wine Bar at 2 Park Avenue in Manhattan, who made a simple fondue using Uplands’ Pleasant Ridge and Thistle Hills’ Tarentaise – two cheeses perfect for fondue.

Chef Brennan’s tips for making a successful fondue:

1. Use only two or no more than three cheeses when making fondue. The Alpine-style cheeses are the best as they melt and homogenize better than other cheeses.
2. A high-acid white wine also helps homogenize the cheese.
3. A little cornstarch will help thicken the melted cheese and make it easier to stick to your bread and other dipping “goodies”.
4. When immersing your item into the cheese, use a “figure 8” motion to stir the fondue. This helps emulsify the fondue mixture.
5. When you add the grated cheese to your fondue pot, make sure the cheese is at room temperature.
6. If you drop your goodies into the cheese, you MUST kiss the cook…this is The Man’s favorite tip from this segment. I suspect it is also a favorite for The Lady…

In the next quick segment, Martha showed the audience how to make three easy cheese appetizers: Lacy Cheese Wafers, sautéed in a skillet; Pitted Dates filled with goats’ cheese and Martini Olives filled with blue cheese.

The final segment featured The Lady’s friend, Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter and Cheese who also has a new book, “In a Cheesemakers’ Kitchen” (another recent addition to the cheese book library at the manse). Martha and Allison featured several of the cheeses that Allison and her partner, Bob Reese make including Crème Fraiche and Bonne Buche (which means “good mouthful” in French).

If you love cheese, then this is one of the most pleasurable hours you can spend learning more about the American Artisanal Cheese movement. If you don’t love cheese, then you should seek professional help immediately.

I give Martha Stewart’s Cheese Show 2009 4 Paws out of 4 Paws (cause that’s all I’ve got).

Vi var på provning härom veckan. Det var Theies Vin i Köpenhamn som ställde upp med lokalen när fem Champagneproducenter visade upp sina viner. De två producenter som stod ut var David Leclapart och Georges Laval. Vinerna var så ”naturligt” producerade som möjligt med minsta möjliga användning av svavel, ingen besprutning och experiment med vildjäst. Personliga, rena och mycket eleganta viner.

Natural wine är ett begrepp som surrat runt i vinvärlden ett bra tag, det har bara varit relativt tyst i Sverige. På andra sidan sundet har det blivit något av en trend. Det handlar inte om en klassifikation och det finns inget certifikat, utan poängen är precis vad det låter som, naturliga viner. Generellt kan man säga att viner utan tillsatser som svavel eller med minimal användning av sådana och utan klarning eller filtrering och maskinell inblandning är Natural Wines. Vingårdarna är ofta ekologiska eller biodynamiska och man kan kanske säga att det hela är en förlängning av dessa odlingssätt och att det för terroirbegreppet till en ny nivå.

Utan svavel och andra tillsatser och med vildjäst istället för odlad blir det svårare att förutspå resultatet. Vinerna blir i ännu större utsträckning en produkt av sin växtplats och årgång men även av sin vinmakare. Varje gång man träffar på den här typen av produkter som går i bräschen för något nytt kan jag inte låta bli att fundera över motreaktionen. Om vad man eftersträvar med naturvin är en spegling av förhållanden utan inblandning, vad är motsatsen? En klon av en druva där endast de mest angenäma dragen odlats fram, som lever i artificiella, noggrant kalkylerade förhållanden för maximal potential? Jag väntar med spänning och sen blir det provningsduell, må godaste vin vinna.

Miriam

We are thankful for so many things it’s hard to narrow down the list. Here are the top 10 things we’re thankful for this season:

1.) CHARDONNAY
Santa Maria Valley is known throughout the wine community as one of the top AVAs for premium Chardonnay. Whether you prefer Chardonnay aged in oak or stainless steel, you can find a Chardonnay that’s right for you. Our goal is to prove that during The Chardonnay Symposium, slated for July 2010. Follow our blog for the latest developments.

2.) PINOT NOIR
We can’t get enough of the balanced Pinots from the SMV. There are a variety of styles throughout the area but one quality is found throughout Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noirs; they are food friendly. For many wine drinkers, wine is a part of daily life and enjoyed with dinner. It’s for this very reason that we are so proud of our food friendly wines. Occasionally you’ll find a wine that should be enjoyed on its own but most of our Pinots are extremely complimentary of a variety of foods, especially Thanksgiving Turkey. Need more ideas for Thanksgiving food and wine pairings? Check out this post by food and wine expert Laura Mohseni.

3.) EXPERIMENTATION
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah may be the most popular varietals in Santa Maria but our winemakers love to experiment with many different varietals. Take Ken Volk, for example. It has been said that he works with as many as 60 different varietals. At any given time he can be selling wines made with 2 dozen different grapes. If you’re a big fan of obscure wines visit his tasting room and try wines such as the Cabernet Pfeffer.

4.) GROWTH
The Santa Maria Valley Wine Country is growing. We’re so happy to welcome CORE wine company’s new tasting room to the wine trail. Stay tuned throughout the year for news about Presqu’ile Winery off of Clark Ave (not yet open to the public). They have big plans for their future label and we can’t wait to try their wine. We’re also excited that Wine Country, the popular wine, beer and cigar tasting room from Los Olivos will be moving to Orcutt. Check this blog throughout the next year for news about all of the new wineries and tasting rooms in Santa Maria.

5.) HOLIDAY DISCOUNTS
The best discount of the season is probably the Wine Christmas Passport. Not only do you save up to 70% off of wine tasting fees but we’re giving away raffle tickets for every 2 bottles of wine that you purchase for the holidays (or for your wine cellar).

Another quick and affordable way to buy holiday gifts is to purchase a case of wine (and reap the reward of the case discounts offered by most wineries). Some wineries go beyond the average 10% discount and make a case discount impossible to pass up. Stop by Cottonwood Canyon on Black Friday and save 50% on case purchases of 2003 Bistro Zinfandel and Non-Vintage Bistro Chardonnay!

6.) COMMUNITY
One of the best reasons to live in Santa Maria, besides the great wine, is the community. Santa Marians support each other like one giant family. We are thankful for all of the support we have received from both businesses and individuals throughout the valley. In order to give back to our community, we have decided to give a portion of proceeds from our events (Wine Christmas Passport, The Chardonnay Symposium) to the Marian Foundation and the Blochman Union School District (the wine country’s school district).

7.) LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION
The Santa Maria Valley is only one of two East-West transverse valley on the whole west coast of North and South America, making it one of the most unique AVAs in the world. The transverse orientation accentuates cooling maritime influences from the Pacific Ocean, creating an average temperature of 64 degrees, with high temperatures rarely reaching above 75. Because the Valley is situated at its particular southerly latitude, an extended growing season (125 days on average) allows Santa Maria Valley to produce intensely high quality fruit.

8.) EVENTS
Nearly every weekend there are a variety of winery events to attend. There are Friday Night Wine Downs at Costa de Oro and Cottonwood Canyon, special food and wine pairings at Riverbench, art shows at McKeon-Phillips, “Bring your own burger” nights at CORE wine company, farmer’s markets at Cambria and much, much more. For a complete list of events in the wine country visit the SMVWINES calendar.

9.) FRESH, LOCAL PRODUCE
There are numerous ways to pick up fresh produce for the holidays (or for any meal). There is a Farmer’s Market at Town Center West across from the Santa Maria Town Center Mall (Broadway near Main Street) on Wednesdays from 12:30-4:30pm and in Orcutt on Bradley and Clark on Tuesdays from 10am-1pm.

Did you know? Santa Maria produces 10 million boxes of strawberries annually, which are transported to supermarkets all across the United States.

For juicy Santa Maria strawberries check out Darren’s Berries on the corner of Stowell and Highway 101’s northbound exit. You can buy them by the flat or half-flat. Don’t wash them until you’re ready to eat them and keep them spread out in an airtight container. That way they’ll last at least a week (or more)–IF you can refrain from eating them all in two days. Better yet, make strawberry jam for the winter months!

Check out this blog post about Santa Maria Strawberries.

10.) SOCIAL MEDIA
Social media has allowed us to reach out to fans of SMV wines throughout the world. We love hearing from you and sharing what we’re learned with you. There are so many ways to be involved with wine online. We’re planning on starting monthly online wine tastings in 2010 (stay tuned) as a way to share our wines with those across the globe. You can also keep in touch with us through Facebook, Twitter, You Tube, Flickr, Snooth, Open Wine Consortium, and many more wine websites. Just search each site for SMVWINES or click on the links above.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!

Novembro, 2009

Enoteca Saint Vin Saint recebe Emporio Sorio para apresentação dos vinhos da Córsega!!

Ontem, dia 17/11, tivemos o imenso  prazer de apresentar nossos vinhos no delicioso espaço da Enoteca Saint Vin Saint. O evento contou com 12 participantes, que ao final, concorreram a 1 garrafa de Terraza D´isula e tiveram a oportunidade de apreciar a saborosa cozinha da Chef Luiza Hoffman. Obrigada a todos que compareceram e até a próxima! Au revoir ..

Como suelo hacer mientras los niños se preparan para ir a la escuela, pongo CNN para ver si está pasando algo gordo en el mundo. Hoy me asaltó, entre un montón de “noticias” no particularmente nuevas y bastante aburridas, este comercial:

Tanto que se rompen la cabeza los marketeros del vino para intentar integrar la noción de terroir y aquí tenemos a esta rubia hablando… ¿De qué? Pues del divino terroir que nos da las altamente nutritivas, hipocalóricas y económicas papas de Idaho. El anuncio no parece querer dejar ángulo sin explorar. Es un compendio total de virtudes. ¡Futuristas y cínicos de pro, tomen nota, que aquí hay algo! O utilizan la táctica mercadológica, o le sugieren a los clientes, si es que lo de las uvas en realidad no se puede monetizar como Dios manda (“monetizar” es la palabrita de la semana, patrocinadora de Plaza Sésamo…), pues, cambio del cultivar, que esas papas están muy guapas…

Il parral è uno dei segni più comuni della tradizione argentina, anche se la crisi dei prezzi delle uve non “finas” [1] sembra condannarlo all’oblio.

L’attitudine produttiva e la relativa facilità di reperimento di manodopera a basso prezzo garantiscono tuttavia a questo tipo di tendone un futuro prossimo più che sicuro.

Parral cuyano [2]. “Alambres” [3] strutturali ad altezza di 2.20 m. Elementi di potatura speroni alla base del “canasto” (snodo della ramificazione) e 4 “cargadores”, tralci di un anno. Un sistema da cui è lecito aspettarsi una produttività non minore ai 400 qq/ha. Il torrontes [4] è probabilmente la varietà che meglio di altri sublima le potenzialità di questo sistema di conduzione, comunque comune per cabernet e malbec. E’ intoltre tipico delle estensioni di uva sultanina.

Versione a “H”, evoluzione ordinata e più produttiva ma con maggior uso di cavi. Il parral sanjuanino prevede invece cavi conduzione a 1.80 m, con caratteristiche strutturali totalmente simili al parral cuyano. Un effetto immediato è la minore praticabilità del vigneto da parte di mezzi motorizzati. Molto più agevole ovviamente la “cosecha” [5].

Ultima variante da proporre è il celebre parral tetralateral, che prevede al posto dei tralci di un anno 4 cordoni speronati.
[continua]

note

La moda della California, come la moda del parral [1] ai suoi tempi, stravolgerà l’aspetto della campagne e delle cantine. Gli argentini aderiranno al nuovo spirito come ad un muss sein [2], un dover essere aprioristico e senza spazzi di discussione. Il passaggio sarà gestito dai leader con la solita profusione di parole chiave e sguardi in camera. Il cambiamento sarà ovviamente “poblàr” [3] e coinvolgerà le piazze. I telegiornali proporranno immagini di futuri di tecnologia e progresso. La carta stampata chioserà con la consapevolezza critica di chi affronta l’ineluttabile. I professori nelle università disamineranno i perché alla luce delle lavagne luminose. Se ne parlerà nei ristoranti tra amici e sul lavoro coi sottoposti.

Tradimento? La poetica del terroir come incontro tra storia e luogo non trova nella pragmatica del fincadero [4] argentino terreno fertile.

Fedeli al mercato e alle sue mode i mendozini non proveranno rimorsi nel mettere in soffitta tutte le proprie cose e ricominciare da zero una nuova avventura. Ecco dunque le nuove direttive di produzione distribuite dai responsabili marketing agli agronomi e da questi ai fornitori  o agli operai agricoli. Come un organismo solidale.

Al fantasma del turista-gringo [5] le leve produttive. Vino rosso/asado/tango [6], servizio all-inclusive. I mendozini, che tra l’altro il tango non l’hanno mai sentito fino all’avvento della radio, hanno inteso il terroir come concetto metafisico. Lasciano che il termine sia spalmato sulle brochures e non si crucciano nel vedere il prodotto asservito alle mutevoli esigenze di quest’assenza.

Chi parla di terroir in Argentina sono gli enologi di grido, sempre col sorriso cinico di chi cavalca una moda. Di chi sa di gestire semplicemente il valore aggiunto di un’etichetta.

[continua]

Kivet ovat viattomia kirvoittamaansa väittelyyn

Mineraalisuudella tarkoitetaan viinin ominaisuuksia, joka kantavat maussaan viitteitä maaperästä, jolla rypäleet tuottaneet köynnökset ovat kasvaneet. Maaperän koostumuksesta riippuen mineraalinen maku voi olla esimerkiksi kalkkinen, sorainen tai liituinen. Mineraalisuudesta puhutaan etenkin terroir-vetoisten vanhan maailman viinien yhteydessä, poikkeuksetta myönteisessä valossa, koska mineraalisuuden käsite tukee saumattomasti ajatusta spesifin kasvupaikan kriittisestä roolista suhteessa lopputuotteen ominaisuuksiin.

Mineraalisuus ei kuitenkaan ole selvärajainen tai tarkasti määritelty käsite: kaikkea muuta! Kivimäisten aromien lisäksi mineraalisuudeksi voidaan esimerkiksi nimitellä vaikkapa viinin hivenen metallista ominaisuutta, joka muistuttaa kihelmöintiä, jonka saa tuta tunkiessaan kielensä samanaikaisesti pariston molempiin napoihin. Tällaisia piirteitä löytyy esimerkiksi monista Nicolas Jolyn terroir-uskollisista viineistä, jotka tuskin myisivät vuodesta toiseen viinimaailman platinaa, jos markkinointimateriaaliin kirjoitettaisiin sanat ‘raskasmetalli’ tai ‘vuotava paristo’, joita kumpaakaan tuskin löytyy maastosta merkittävissä määrin. Onkin huomioitava, että mineraalisuus-käsitettä käytetään varsin laveasti.

Mineraalisuus on monitahoisuudessaan paraatiesimerkki viinimaailman kaksijakoisesta sijoittumisesta tieteellisen tiedon ja vuosisataisen tradition välimaastoon. Tiedeyhteisö sanoo toista, perimätieto jotain aivan muuta. Ranskalaisten valkoviinien filosofian voisi kärjistäen typistää yhteen lauseeseen: jos viinissä on mineraalisuutta, se ilmaisee maaperäänsä. Tiedemiehet ovat toista mieltä: maaperästä löytyvät mineraalit eivät voi kiivetä juuria pitkin rypäleisiin, eivät ainakaan aisteilla havaittavalla tavalla, ja kaikki muut väitteet ovat esoteerista puppua. Onko mineraalisuus siis tuubaa vai totta?

Mineraalisuus on ollut viinimaailmassa kuluneet vuodet kovassa huudossa. Se päätynee näinä päivinä useammin huonolla käsialalla kirjoitettuihin tasting-lappusiin kuin koskaan viinin historiassa. Koska käsitettä ei ole määritelty tarkasti, sillä voidaan tarkoittaa monenlaisia asioita, jotka voivat olla toisiinsa liittymättömiä tai jopa keskenään ristiriitaisia. Ei siis ole ihme, että sitä myös väärinkäytetään.

Yksi esimerkki mineraalisuus-käsitteen ryöstöviljelystä ovat eräiden valkoviinien kuvaukset. Jos viini on yltiöhapokas, matalahedelmäinen ja kotoisin vanhan maailman tunnetuilta kulmilta, se on yllättävän monen viinikirjoittajan suussa mineraalinen, vaikka toisinaan osuvampaa saattaisi olla toteamus, että viinissä ei ole tarpeeksi hedelmää suhteessa happoihin. Viiniarvioiden kosmeettinen kaunisteleminen liittyy nähdäkseni osittain viinimaailman vallitsevaan paradigmaan, joka on vartettu vanhan maailman traditioon. Uuden maailman suuntaan ollaan vähemmän anteeksiantavia.

Eräs esimerkki ovat maan mainiot chablis-viinit, joita tapaan kulautella kalan kyytipoikana. Monet edulliset chablis-viinit ovat hapokkaita, hedelmältään rajoittuneita ja tyylikkäitä. Mutta varmastiko mineraalisia? Hieman laadukkaamman chablisin happojen kireyttä yhdistettynä tammivapaan Chardonnayn neutraaliin makumaailmaan kutsutaan usein teräksiseksi. Sen sanotaan johtuvan esihistoriallisesta maaperästä, vaikka piirre ilmenee myös monissa petit chablis-viineissä, jotka eivät kasva sillä. Pittoreskiä kylää ympäröivät vähempiarvoiset maapläntit eivät paljastu suurellakaan kaapimisella jalostetun teräksen hautomoiksi, sen enempää kuin fossiilipohjaiseksi, joten mistä oikein tuulee? Mineraalinen maku siis maistuu paikasta riippuen täsmälleen maaperälle tai sitten ei laisinkaan. Toisinaan se maistuu tunnetumman naapuripitäjän maaperälle.

Todetaan vielä ääneen: harva valkoviini maistuu savelta (luojan kiitos), vaikka monet köynnökset savimaalta ponnistavatkin. Huomaamme, että kasvumaaperän ja makujen välinen suhde on mutkikas. Irvileukaisempi voisi väittää, että terroirin ja mineraalisuuden mystistä suhdetta käytetään toisinaan samalla tavalla kuin purukumia pyöränrenkaan paikkauksessa.

Mutta miksi mineraalisuudesta on puhuttu kuluneina vuosina enemmän kuin aikaisemmin? En pitäisi lainkaan mahdottomana, että mineraalipuheiden voimistuminen on suorassa yhteydessä viinin globalisaatioon ja sen aiheuttamaan kilpailun kiristymiseen. Kukaties mineraalisuus toimii joillekin vanhan maailman viinintekijöille eräänlaisena olemassaolon oikeutuksena, jolla kilpailuasetelma pyritään artikuloimaan uusiksi: “sen sijaan että viineissämme olisi jotain vähemmän kuin teillä (hedelmän runsauden ja alkoholin osalta), meillä on itseasiassa teitä enemmän, koska meillä on mineraalinen maaperä”. Vähemmälle painoarvolle jäävät marginaalinen ilmasto sekä käytetyt välineet ja työmetodit. Johtuisiko painotus osittain siitä, että vanhalla maailmalla on yksi asia, jota uusi maailma ei voi pihistää? Itse maa?

Vaikka mineraalisuus yhdistettynä terroiriin saattaa toimia markkinoinnissa keppihevosena, on jo korkea aika todeta ilmeinen: on nähdäkseni kohtuullisen kiistatonta, että ilmiö, jota yleisesti nimitetään mineraalisuudeksi, on olemassa. Huomaan itsekin usein raapustavani sanan tasting-lappuun. Eläviä esimerkkejä mineraalisesta makuprofiilista löytyy kosolti. Moselin rieslingissa voi todella maistaa kivimäisiä komponentteja, jotka muistuttavat kasvualustana toimivasta liuskekivimaaperästä ja tekevät viinistä vivahteikkaan. Monoparcel-samppanjoissa voi maistaa maaperän, jolla ne kasvavat. Esimerkkjä on runsaasti… Mutta palataan silti vielä hetkeksi tiedemiehiin ja heidän tuloksiinsa.

Geological Society of American geologi Alex Maltman toteaa:

“Mitä tahansa mineraalisuus viinin maussa on, se ei ole maaperän mineraaleja”.

New York Timesin McGee ja Patterson toteavat mainiossa artikkelissaan, että mineraalisuudeksi kutsutun maun ja maaperän suhde on mutkikas:

“Kasvattaja ja viinintekijä vaikuttavat runsaissa määrin viinin mineraalisiin makuihin.
(…)

Viinintekijä tekee satoja valintoja, jotka vaikuttavat viinin makuun, alkaen rypäleiden kyspyystason valinnasta ja päättyen metallisiin työvälineisiin, sementtisiin käymisastioihin ja kirkastusagentteihin, jotka valmistetaan bentoniittisavesta.
(…)

Suurin osa maan tuoksuista ja mineraalisista aromeista, jotka viinissä havaitsemme, ovat peräisin itseasiassa rypäleiden ja hiivan vuorovaikutuksesta.” (Suom. Piru)

Näin on kirjoittajien mukaan asianlaita esimerkiksi Sauvignon blanceissa tavattujen piikiviaromien kohdalla ja monien Etelä-Rhônen viinien kivimäisissä piirteissä.

Lasissa maistuu maaperää muistuttava komponentti, mutta sen ei pitäisi olla mahdollista… Mitä tästä kaikesta pitäisi olla mieltä? Johtopäätös on nähdäkseni kohtuullisen selkeä ja vaivaton saavuttaa. Tiede kykenee osoittamaan, etteivät maaperän mineraalit siirry viinin makuun havaittavalla tavalla, kuten ranskalaisessa terroir-ajettelussa uskotaan, mutta tieteellisen yhteisön kyvyttömyyttä selittää ilmiötä tyhjentävästi (kykyenemällä ainoastaan kumoamaan yhden selitysmallin) ei voida lukea todisteeksi siitä, etteikö mineraalisuudeksi nimitetty ilmiö lasissa olisi de facto todellinen, vaikkakin väärin ymmärretty (kuten Flogiston-teoria ennen palamisreaktion tuntemista). Maaperä vaikuttaa lopputuotteeseen siinä missä käytetyt metoditkin, vaikka maaperän erityispiirteiden ja lopputuotteen välinen mekanismi on tuntematon.

Mineraalisuutta korostava terroir-ajattelu vaikuttaa paikka paikoin liioitellulta: vaikka maaperän merkitystä ei voida poissulkea, tutkimustulokset eivät viito sen suuntaan, että maaperä näyttelisi suurempaa roolia viinin maussa, kuin vallitseva ilmasto, valitut työsketelymetodit tai käytetty teknologia. Mitä tähän voi sanoa: kukaties yksinkertaisin ratkaisu olisi keksiä ‘mineraalisuudelle’ osuvampi nimitys, joka tyydyttäisi sekä terroir-ihmisiä että mineraaleja tutkivia geologeja? Pirulta ei moista irtoa, luoja paratkoon, mutta totean silti lopuksi, että ‘mineraalisuuden’ alkuperästä viis, pidän varsin myönteisenä asiana sitä, että viinilasissani tuoksuu muukin kuin päärynämehujää tai mustikkakeitto.

Mitä mieltä sinä olet? Irtoaako kommentteja keskustelun verran?

Fa sorridere il leggere nei commenti alle statistiche argentine l’espressione “potenziale produttivo inespresso”.  Sentir parlare gli osservatori internazionali di modernizzazione necessaria fa sorridere chi questo paese l’ha vissuto.

Oggi il viaggiatore occidentale troverà come zoccolo di queste statistiche una società destinata a scomparire. Il tramonto di cultura fondata su consuetudini e modi di fare “criollos” [1] oramai confinata alle campagne periferiche. Le fasi finali di una società sopravissuta all’industrializzazione nelle sue superstizioni e riti ancestrali. Meticcia, con livelli di scolarizzazione da ‘800 italiano e caratterizzata da mobilità orizzontale e verticale inesistenti. Una società dove il Cattolicesimo si fonde con devozioni popolari extra-Cristiane come la martire di Correa o il Gaucito Gil.

Il malbec, prodotto più fortunato di questo ambiente, è oggi proposto dalle classifiche di winespectator come uno dei fenomeni più promettenti dell’enologia mondiale. Un vitigno selezionato dalle esigenze di generazioni di lavoratori coatti e venduto come sensazione a élite occidentali de-territorializzate. Da testimone del cambiamento a caposaldo dell’Ho.re.ca trans-nazionale.

Il mito delle grandi quantità relative di prodotto e la selezione di varietà e sitemi di produzione capaci di reggere lo sforzo di 400 quintali per ettaro [2], l’irrigazione a quasi 10.000 m3 acqua/ettaro/anno [3] ed il letame “a badilate”. Questa è la tradizione in Argentina.

Il malbec, “malvèc” secondo la pronuncia mendozina, è la lotta tra l’inerzia dei sistemi consuetudinari e la fluidità del capitalismo moderno. I percorsi di identità e tradizione contro l’opportunità di remunerazione offerta da una posizione geografica. Da una parte affittuari in balia di agenti atmosferici e oidio, con residenze ricavate da casolari isolati in totale assenza di servizi, strade di accesso polverose e prezzi delle uve a 50 centavos/kg [4], con l’alternativa di produrre vino per 10 centavos al litro. Dall’altra la colonizzazione delle monete europee ed americane ed i salari sicuri delle nuove strutture agroindustriali. L’avvenire.

Nascerà un modo più veloce di fare soldi e l’adesione sarà indiscussa e unanime. Senza nessuna assicurazione ci si tufferà sulle nuove procedure californiane buttando al vento secoli di tradizioni argentine.

[continua]

Vous vous dites que ce blog commence decidémment par des articles assez connotés “terroir”. C’est pas faux. Mais l’art de la chasse ; l’art dans la chasse, c’est pas si fréquent !

Tout d’abord, situons nous : nous sommes dans la capitale du Perche, à Nogent le Rotrou (Eure et Loire). Conduit dans le zafira d’un des nombreux chasseurs de ce week end, j’arrive en ce vendredi soir pile à l’heure de l’apéro. Sachez qu’il est tout de même très aisé d’arriver à l’heure de l’apéro dans ce joli corps de ferme, celui-ci se déroulant entre 18h et 21h. Je ne suis pas tombé n’importe où et chez n’importe qui. Le maître des lieux est un ingénieur industriel de 84 ans, qui conduit, chasse, bricole et taille quelque centaine de noyers par an (entre autres). Une de ces personnes qui a mis son génie au service de l’armée (pendant la guerre) et qui aujourd’hui encore a le cerveau sans cesse en ébulition ; admirable. C’est d’ailleurs lui qui se delècte de l’organisation de ce week-end festif, avec l’aide de chaque membre de cette nombreuse famille, qui s’est trouvé chacun un rôle selon son savoir-faire. Je tiens d’ailleurs à rendre  un vibrant hommage à l’homme qui m’aura mis K.O grâce à une cuisine de terroir pleine de goût ; j’ai nommé mr Jean Sineau qui détient “La haie Godefroy”. Je suis accueilli avec un kyr vin blanc, un verre de rouge, un saucisson, une superbe terrine, et l’odeur du bois de l’énorme four à pain de la maison. Je ne vais pas vous le rabâcher pendant tout l’article mais ici, tout est fait maison. Exemple du kyr, la crême de cassis, le vin, ou le cidre sont fait ici, la terrine n’est faite que de cochon élévé par celui qui m’en coupe une tranche en ce moment même. Enfin, vous voyez quoi. Ca c’est moi 15 minutes après mon arrivée, déjà assez en confiance pour prêter mon appareil.

Entrer dans la maison d’un tel homme confère déjà à une originalité visible partout. Ici, tout appareil électrique (frigo, cafetière…), ou mécanique (chasse d’eau, porte) est arboré d’un post-it expliquant scrupuleusement le fonctionnement, ou les petits “trucs” utiles à son fonctionnement. Certaines notes mélangent notion philosophique et économie d’énergie, comme sur la lampe de chevet dans ma chambre :

“Espace/temps : matière à réfléchir”

Mais vous pouvez aussi vous trouver nez à nez avec une horloge solaire… dans le salon !!!  Ne bougez pas, c’est très simple (d’après ce qu’on m’a dit): “tu prends une vieille gouttière, dans laquelle tu fixes tout un tas de fibre optique, orientées d’est en ouest, pour que les rayons du soleil éclairent fibre par fibre tout au long de la journée… A l’intérieur, l’autre extrémité des fibres sont fixées dans des petits trous percés au préalable en face de chaque quart d’heure de la journée. Putain ça va c’est simple. Ici il est midi par exemple”… Bon, j’ai faim.

Là y a rien à comprendre je crois…

Je suis logé dans une chambre très agréable, appelée : “la chambre au lavabo”… Car il y a un lavabo dedans !

Le portrait d’un ancêtre à la moustache pas très avenante… bon allez gute nachte et à demain

Le matin est là, plus tôt que les autres matins. Sur une trentaine de personnes, il y en a toujours une plus gentille, plus altruiste et surtout plus matinale que les autres pour vous graisser les doigts de croissants chauds quand vos épis rebels et vos yeux fermés se mettent à table. Donc merci monsieur ou madame, je ne vous vois pas de toutes façons… J’enfile mes Aigle et prends une voiture au hasard et je fais semblant de vérifier le permis de chasse de chacun, histoire d’être sûr que personne ne possède une arme par erreur et de ne pas prendre une balle perdue.

Ca y est on arrive, on descend du Ford Fusion break et on met le panneau en place, essentiel à ceux qui voudraient aller aux champignons.

On nous distribue des gilets orange flashy, et je me dis que je n’ai pas porté de fluo depuis mon bermudas damier de l’été 1984, à Quimper avec mes cousins.

Alors on marche, en ligne. C’est parti, le but étant donc de rabattre l’animal vers la ligne de tireurs… Et on crie, on gueule… Ce qu’on veut, tant que nos amis rabatteurs et surtout nos tireurs arrivent à nous localiser… rho ça fait du bien. J’en ai profité pour exulter toute sorte d’insultes tel un individu ayant une crise de ” De la Tourette”… Non je déconne, j’ai fait dans l’ambiance central à la porte d’Auteuil lors du premier tour de Rolland du genre ” allleeezzz”. On se croise, on croise de magnifiques chevreuils en train de s’appliquer à courrir les dernières foulées de leurs tristes vies. Par contre, sans avoir un gros zoom style 200 ou 300 mm, amusez vous à suivre un chevreuil dans les ronces et le prendre en photo. Un echec total ; je vais attendre qu’une balle aie croisé leur chemin pour les faire poser.

En attendant….. Miam…

pas miam du tout…

un petit air de noël

Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way!
O what fun it is to ride in a one-horse open sleigh,
Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way!
O what fun it is to ride in a one-horse open sleigh

Quelques Bim bam boum pan pan et ce que vous voudrez plus tard, je redescends sur terre, on retrouvre nos héros et on fait un petit bilan.

On refait le match, comme dirait l’autre : “t’as vu celui que j’ai raté à cause du soleil qui m’a aveuglé? (…) ouais j’ai voulu le tirer mais je me battais à mains nues avec un sanglier…” enfin ce genre de témoignage. Nous les poètes, on a cueilli cinq cèpes d’un kilo chacun, et je ne vous cache pas être assez fier de ce butin. Deux exemples de transformation. Ici, le champignon est comme vous le voyez, victime de violences insoutenables : noyé puis decoupé en petits morceaux, il est pris à vif par une agression de beurre et de fleur de sel, et asphyxié enfin par un haché d’ail et de persil

`

Alors qu’ici, le chevreuil est détendu, pendu par les pieds, ce qui est très bon pour la circulation sanguine et est invité à l’instar de nous tous ici présents, à se rechauffer autour de la douce chaleur du grand four …

Un dernier Armagnac 1979 que je noublierai pas de sitôt et je quitte le vintage baroque de cet endroit de rêve.

Retour au bercail par le train de la ligne anciennement Brest-Paris, qui a son terminus au Mans désormais. Durant le voyage, je pense déjà à appliquer les conseils de notre cher Jean avec ma part de chevreuil. A savoir, un civet au cidre. Nous avons également mis nos cèpes à sécher. A couper en lamelle et les piquer avec fil et aiguilles pour en faire des colliers, à pendre au dessus d’une cheminée, d’un radiateur, ou dehors sur un linge dans la journée… (bon, moi je tente le coup dans un four à 60 degré pendant quelques heures, avec la porte ouverte).

See you, pour une investigation plus urbaine, et sans doute un peu plus polémique la prochaine fois.

Hi Francesco,
I have a project that I have to submit for my class, and I’d like your opinion on one of the questions: Why is a Pinot Noir from Australia so different in style from a Burgundy Pinot Noir? I know the basic reasons for this (mostly due to the difficult/delicate nature of growing the grape itself), but would like to know what you think.

Thanks,
Joe

Thank you Joe for the question, Its been a while since Ive did one of these.  Pinot is a difficult grape to grow perfectly.  It is prone to extreme weathers, has thin skin which makes the berries vulnerable to all sorts of diseases, and it also has problems in the cellar during fermentation and these are just a few.

But these types of situations exist no matter where  Pinot is grown, be it Burgundy or Australia.  The main difference here is the terroir.  Grapes are products of their environment, just like you and I.  The soil, sun, rain, air circulation,  and exposure all help to determine their character, including the wine maker.  When one or more of these factors are changed the product is different, hence you have differences between Burgundian Pinot Noir,Australian, New Zealand, and American etc.

Lets talk a little specifically about the terroirs of Burgundy and Australia.

The risk of growing Pinot in Burgundy is very high compared to other places, but the reward is worth it.   The climate is continental and usually experiences cold winters which can damage or even kill young vines.  Burgundy  is northerly enough that the grapes just make it to full ripeness and there is constantly a threat of hail and under ripe fruit.  The long and cool growing season allows the berries to produce all of those complexities and nuances that we all love;  patience is a virtue.  In some years, there is too much rain and too much cold which can hurt production and quality.  Pinot does not live and easy life, but this why some say the best wines in world come from Burgundy.  Check this post out about Bad Soil, Good Grapes to get a better idea.

Burgundian Pinot Noir

The soil is extremely varied in Burgundy.  There is limestone, marl, sand and gravel that exist through out the region and within single vineyards.  Pinot tends to be planted on soils richer and marl and Chardonnay planted on limestone.  These soils provide drainage and warmth which help the grapes to ripen.  The bottom line is that these conditions allow the Pinot Noir grape to flourish and produce their best wines.  The wines are aromatically complex and elegant.  The color is light ruby and the flavors are more earth driven than fruit forward.  The wine delicately caresses your mouth with a good intensity backed by a symphony of nuances.

Here's a look at another vineyard in Burgundy. The trees in the background are important in blocking strong and cold winds that can damge teh vines. you can also get a good look at the soil in this one.

Now let’s take a look at Australia.  The problem with Australia is that the climate is way too hot in most places. Yarra Valley and Geelong have particularly cooler climates and this is where the better Pinots are being produced.  Most Pinots from Australia are over extracted and fruit bomby due to the heat.  The grapes are picked in an over ripe state resulting in jammy fruitiness with a high alcohol content that takes away from the elegant nature of the grape.  The use of oak is sometimes overdone as well.

There are poor examples of each in both regions.  Some Australian Pinot is better than some Burgundian Pinot.  The producer and vintage are vitally important, especially for Pinot.  Where conditions prevail for the grape, the better the resulting wine. When buying, look for regions that have a known reputation for producing quality grapes.

1736 Massachusette Ave
Cambridge, MA
617.497.7766
www.simonscoffeeshop.com

I visited Simon’s Coffee in Cambridge, MA, after reading great reviews about this place on coffeegeek.com and yelp. Finally I decided to check this place out on my last day during my Boston trip. Visiting the cafe was easy as it was just about two blocks from Porter Square Red Line station.

Simon’s Coffee has been operated for 7 years. It now uses beans from George Howell’s Terroir and Barismo. Both were local roasters with great reputation. I ordered a latte, which was prepared from Barismo’s Sonata blend. The blend consisted of Brazil moreninha formosa, Ethiopia koke, Guatemala nimac kapeh, and Costa Rica helsar de zarcero. The blend was very good. It was medium mild, which was my favorite, and the aroma was great.

Although the day I visited the cafe was the same day as the White Chrome barista competition in Boston and, according to Simon-the-owner, his top baristas were at the competition, the latte I got was still very good and I was not disappointed. The staff were also very friendly. Keith and Christine (the barista) greeted me with smiles and we had lively conversation while I was waiting for my latte. Simon was not at the cafe when I was there but I ran into him later that day at the White Chrome competition. He was a very friendly guy and that explained a lot why his staff were friendly with no attitude. I also learned from Simon that the owner of Barismo had worked together with him for years before starting the roasting business.

The cafe was very crowded during my visit, which testified the quality and reputation of the place. Most of the customers seemed to be local and ranged from students to young professionals. It is indeed a nice place to get great coffee in Boston area. I will definitely visit Simon’s again. See you soon, Simon… I am looking forward to the even better shot of espresso you promised me next time I visit Boston!

27 Brattle Street
Cambridge, MA
www.cremacambridge.com

According to a friend of Cafe Hounds who is currently a graduate student at Harvard, Crema Cafe is one of the best coffee houses in Harvard Square. In fact, Crema Cafe just won Best Coffeehouse in Boston by Boston Magazine’s Best of Boston 2009. I met with my friend on morning during a weekday. The cafe was packed with customers although they seemed to have plenty seating area– upstair, bars, outdoor, and long tables. The location is convenient, right in Harvard Square by the Red Line station.

As usual, I ordered my latte. Crema Cafe always uses Colombian beans for their espresso drinks. According to their baristas, sometimes they use single origin from Colombia while other times they use blends with beans from Colombia. Their beans are from George Howell’s Terroir Coffee Company in Acton outside Boston. My latte had good aroma and it was not too dark– something you would expect from Colombian beans. They also have selection of pastries, some food, and soft drinks available.

Overall, I see myself going to Crema again. The hard part for me is that when I am around Harvard Square, I tend to go to Burdick, which is one of the best chocolate cafes I have visited. But Crema Cafe is definitely a fine place that I will go if I want to get a coffee in Harvard Square area.

Viljeleekö tätä viinitarhaa terroiristi?

Koska spoofulaatio kiinnosti lukijoita sivuillakäyntiennätyksen verran, päätin linkittää toisen mielenkiintoisen viini-ilmiön jonon jatkoksi. Tällä kertaa puhe on terroirista, tuosta ranskalaisten käyttämästä maaperää kuvaavasta sanasta.

Miksi käsite on kuuma peruna? Tsekkaa parin minuutin mittainen suomenkielinen klippi ViiniTV:n sivuilta ja nakkaa viisisenttisesi pätkän alapuolelle. Onko kyseessä ‘vanhan maailman markkinamiesten myyntikikka’ vai paras tapa valmistaa viiniä? Keskustelu käynnistyi videon kirvoittamana Facebookin puolella ja jatkuu sivustolla.

Rencontre à la Bfm de Beaubreuil

le 23 octobre, de 16 h à 18 h

Louis-Olivier Vitté partage son temps libre entre la pratique de la musique classique et l’écriture qui lui permet de faire revivre le passé de sa famille limousine.

L’eau et la rivière sont les fils conducteurs de son travail d’écriture. Il est l’auteur de La rivière engloutie, L’enfant des terres sauvages, L’inconnue de la maison haute (Balland, collection Terres de France).

Sa collection de cartes postales date de la période avant la construction des barrages électriques, et évoque le monde des gabares.

Ses clichés font l’objet d’une exposition dans les bibliothèques de quartier, du 9 octobre au 12 novembre 2009.

La semaine prochaine Louis-Olivier Vitté rencontrera ses “fans”:

Le 21 octobre, de 15 h à 17 h Bfm Landouge

Le 22 octobre, de 17 h à 18 h 30 Bfm du Vigenal

Le 23 octobre, de 16h à 18h à la Bfm Beaubreuil

Le 24 octobre, de 15 h à 17 h Bfm La Bastide

Toutes les rencontres seront précédées par une lecture d’un texte proposé par l’auteur, dit par la Compagnie Expression 7.

This weekend, I jet to the US for series of South American-driven events. While many of them are with private chef associations like Les Dames d’Escoffier,  Women Chefs & Restaurateurs (WCR), New York Women’s Culinary Alliance, and universities (including my alma mater, University of Pennsylvania), I will be teaching this Master Class at the French Culinary Institute’s, International Culinary Center on October 28, 2009.

Ok, ok, so here’s my shameless plug to convince all you guys to come to this class, Discover the Wines of South America. It is going to kick total butt and be a whirlwind journey through the region’s terroir–with not a big brand in site. Only, boutique terroir-driven labels. Here’s the write-up:

In recent years, we’ve become entranced with South America. We are vacationing in the jungles of the Amazon, tasting regional cuisines, and sampling an array of new South American wines—and for good reason. Chile and Argentina, in particular, are turning out excellent wines that are giving classic European vintages a run for their money, at very affordable prices. In this class, wine and travel expert Liz Caskey will guide you through an interactive tasting of the best these two countries have to offer, using evocative visuals and informative handouts to demystify the wines being presented. Explore terruño (that’s Spanish for terroir) and learn how Chile and Argentina’s characteristic approaches to wine making, coupled with climatic and geographical conditions, helped European vines take on unique expressions in the soil of the New World. In each glass of wine, you’ll discover rich, dynamic, exotic flavors that are as intriguing as the places from which they hail. Taste and discuss a variety of wines—from Chilean Carmenère to the wholly Argentine Torrontes—that will serve you well as a guide for future exploration.

So just to really sell you into coming, these are some of the rockin’ wines we are going to taste:

Argentina

Cruzat, Rosé Sparkling

Altavista, Torrontes Premium

Mendel, Unus

Finca Sophenia, Malbec Reserva

Chile

Aquitania, Sol de Sol Chardonnay

Quebrada de Macul, Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon

Neyén, Neyén (Carmenere-Cab blend)

And perhaps a little extra surprise blend to share with everyone!

Once again, here’s the info to get hooked up. And of course, as a bonus, you will get to meet me and hang out. I would love to get to know you guys.

Date: October 28, 2009

Time: 7:00-9:30pm

Sign up here.

See you there!

miam

C’est bon!

The Loughmare Winery Gift Shop is now open. Wine lovers, get your official “A Sudden Gift of Fate” gear here!