]]> http://amusemeantforfashion.com/2012/09/06/snow-day/ Thu, 06 Sep 2012 03:16:08 +0000 amusemeant for fashion http://amusemeantforfashion.com/2012/09/06/snow-day/

Thimister sweater dress

Find it @ farfetch.com $2,696

ON SALE

September 27th 2011

Just a few from the 27th, starting with Aganovich, then Commuun, Corrado De Biase and lastly Thimister.

♦

September 28th 2011

A few more for the second day. We start with Dries Van Noten; follwed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Pedro Lourenco. Then we have a dark Gareth Pugh and a very light Rochas. Lastly we have a nautical themed Limi Feu; Mugler and finally Rue Du Mail (spelt wrong in the picture!)

during the thimister show in paris, the designer debuted his models with leather belts, the “no makeup” look, relaxed jesus sandals, and head wrap that gave the show an almost futuristic feel. ashish had my heart this season with black combat boots used as vases for wildflowers. the models were also in uniform with their  pale hats and simple hairstyles along with their flower-adorned boots while they walked in london.  julien david was all about spring in paris with his light and airy fabrics and mixed prints. however, the main focus of my attention were the jail-tattoo styled tear drops under his models’ eyes.  needless to say, i’ve never seen this in high fashion before, and i highly enjoyed the surprise.

of course, a runway show is all about the upcoming season’s collection but to me, these little details a designer adds is what makes a show memorable.

source: new york fashion

paris fashion week: thimister

Tuesday 1st

Not very many for the first day of Paris Fashion Week: just Hakaan, Corrado De Biase (sorry about the mis-spelling below!) and Thimister. (Unfortunatly I can’t find sites for any of them.)

Wednesday 2nd

There were more shows on Wednesday. We start with the wonderful Carven followed by Damir Doma, Dries Van Noten and Guy Laroche. Next came Gareth Pugh, Limi Feu and Thierry Mugler (with a little help from Lady Gaga.) Lastly we have Rochas and Rue Du Mail.

Mugler

Whenever I wake in the morning the first thing I do is brew a great cup of Joe, check emails and log into Twitter. Today’s Tweets were crazy buzzing about the Lady Gaga cameo during the Mugler show today. Apparently extra barriers were set up outside the show, tons of Fashion Munsters/Fame Monsters were parading outside to get a peak of Gaga. (If I wasn’t invited to the show I would probably be in jail right now writing this from trying to sneak in) The dark  show that was very Gaga inspired had an elevated runway lined with wooden arches built to resemble a grand cathedral nave. The models walked with almost a Charlie Sheen like presence , high stilettos, 11 tailored looks and boxed shaped 80′s style peaked shoulders, which Mugler made famous. I kind of fell in love with this collection, It may be weird for a guy to talk about what he would wear if he was a girl (me) but this seems about right if you were looking through my wardrobe.

One of my favorite outfits was when Gaga appeared from behind the photographers pit (fame whore) in molded black bra, sheer bodysuit, and long black hobble skirt.

Best part of the collection that tons can take note on…Gaga actually walked better in her intense over the top platform wedges than many of the models do on their own precarious heels. Food for thought on you lovely Fashion Munistas.

Anne Valérie Hash

I also had a lust for the Anne Hash collection as well! (Pics above)

Thimister

Can’t forget the Thimister collection! (above)

Style.com

  This is how I will be dressing my army when I take over the world, btw.  And as supreme ruler, I will be the one wearing the silver dress…

In France, the term haute couture is protected by law. Those that are a part and follow the strict guidelines of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, can call themselves haute couture. You must be a member essentially to be named that. The first couturier being Charles Frederick Worth in the 19th Century. Bringing back my class of history of costume. The term is widely misused with prêt-à-porter lines, which is just french for ready-to-wear and other high-art fields. I rolled my eyes at the show titled “Jersey Couture”, because none of the clothes are couture clothes, just the fact that they may be custom or whatever. I hate broad definitions. Haute couture is the top of the top of the fashion industry and sets standards that slowly flow down. Standards include:

- Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.

- Have an atelier in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.

- Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

Of course, you must be a member, but I’m not sure how they go about doing so. Some of the official members/foreign are:

Alexis Mabille

Anne Valérie Hash

Chanel

Christian Dior

Christian Lacroix

Dominique Sirop

Elie Saab

Franck Sorbier

Givenchy

Jean Paul Gaultier

Maurizio Galante

Stéphane Rolland

Thimister

Valentino

Of course there are correspondent and foreign members, but these are the people that create it and are members. The concept is a part of history for Paris and fashion, exclusivity, and the highest form of the art.

The more you know…

[1][2][3]

Remind me to wear Thimister when I’m getting all Dexter on someone. Either that or  when Aunt Flo is visiting (sorry, but I couldn’t resist!). The real story behind the blood is the reference to war and the bloodshed from World War I. The best thing out of this collection are those Hunter boots. I have a pair that I wear almost everyday in the winter. They are just so comfy, yet stylish- and by stylish, I mean I look like I ready to dig clams from the damn sea! I love them. Anyway, Thimister’s collection is the first in 10 years, so I guess we can cut him some slack. Literally.

photos: Style

Because there are SO many pret-a-porter shows (that’s ready-to-wear, pardon my french) to look at, and because i’m really in for the dazzling, here are my three favorite looks from Spring 2010′s couture shows. Here’s to Couture!

The final piece at the Christian Dior couture Spring '10 show

1. Realistically, anything sent down a runway by John Galliano makes my heart flutter. His innate sense to flatter a female figure has transcended Dior into my favorite fashion house and this show was a prime example of how each and every piece made me drool. Equestrian-themed as it was, each piece was girly, flirty, and carried a sense of olden-day prestige that begs to be reclaimed. Truth be told, I chose Galliano’ s finale piece precisely because I couldn’t decide which look to choose – they were all breathtaking. With this gown, we see a nipped in waist and emphasized shoulders – signature Dior. Essentially, this piece – along with the rest of the show – made me want to walk around in Galliano’s ball gowns all day. I really could gush forever.

Armani Privé modeled by Karlie Kloss

2. This ethereal dress from Armani Privé is what I’d want to wear to an awards show. This manages to create a defined figure while still swathing the body in gorgeous airless ruffles without overdoing it (ahem, Chloe Sevigny). The rest of the show was incredible – each and every piece fitting like I’ve never seen clothes fit before, seemingly floating in air above the model. This dress is simply breathtaking, and not to mention Karlie Kloss working it!

Karl Lagerfeld unfrumps the tweed suit in Chanel's Spring '10 Couture show

3. This one’s a tie. I HAVE to include this Chanel look because, quite frankly, it’s adorable. Karl Lagerfeld seems to have dug through your grandmother’s closet and has come out with a magnificent collection of the signature Chanel suit. Since shorts are SO in this spring, I am very excited that Lagerfeld made a short-suit, out of tweed no less. While other looks had cropped jackets, I thought this belted look provided an aesthetically pleasing “jacket to short” ration and added a touch of femininity to the military theme that we’ve been seeing in the pret-a-porter collections

Thimister Fall '10 show

and I also HAD to include this look. First because I don’t want anyone to think I’m a stauncher for fashion juggernauts. Although I feel Thimister missed the memo (he showed Fall ’10 as opposed to Spring), this show took me back to when I was a child and fashion was daring – in a really weird, non glamourous, modern art way. According to Style.com, the theme of the fashion show (which featured a lot of military and a lot of red) was based photograph of Tsarevich Alexei Nikolaevich, Emperor Nicholas II’s murdered 13-year-old son, who was routinely dressed in uniform as a boy. And with red stains on white wife-beaters and across militia-gear, it was quite clear that it was one bloody war Thimister was portraying.

Cheers,

Ana

Yes, yes, YES!!!

Does it only glorify gore?

Or hit on devastating beauty?

This touches on so many things at once: imperialism, death, violence and villains. It is unafraid and in your face and I imagine jaws hung open as the models marched down the runway.

Does it make you feel guilty for coveting the clothes of conquerers?

The collection is cohesive, contained, controversial, and catechizing. The tailoring is crisp, clean, but shapely. These are obviously well-made clothes.

Just play Seven Nation Army over this whole thing.

Knowing the history and present of the apparel industry, these clothes not only evoke the bloody and violent imperialism of the past but they also are a bitten-off-tongue-in-cheek reference to current first world-third world dynamics.

Does it make you think about the part you play? Or do the red sequins destract you?

The collection is said to be inspired by a photograph of Tsarevich Alexei Nikolaevich, Emperor Nicholas II’s murdered 13-year-old son, who was routinely dressed in uniform as a boy.

It's at once upsetting and inspiring.

This color palette is amazing too. Red and olive together make one of my favorite all time ever color combinations.

"What happened then was the start of modernism: war, sorrow, destruction. We're still dealing with now."

"And the lack of creativity and spirituality." --Josephus Thimister.

This is Thimister’s first couture collection in ten years.

More pretty hints at violence.

It was self-financed.

Is she an angel or a WWI missile?

It is incredible.

All images taken from Style.com.

Alexis Mabille

Anne Valerie Hash

Armani Prive

Chanel

Christian Dior

I really really really really…Love this dress, I can just imagine wearing it with dark lips and big 1940′s curls.

Elie Saab

Givenchy

Jean Paul Gaultier

Thimister

Valentino

Click on the images for a link to the full collection. Images found here.

I love couture collections because they display many dressmaking techniques that we wouldn’t normally see. Some pieces may look impractical and some are works of art. It takes great skill as well as a masterful design to create these collections. I really do appreciate and respect all the couture houses even if they don’t always appeal to my personal tastes.

Dior is my ultimate couture designer and John Galliano is amazing because all the photos of his collection are like works of art! Chanel and Givenchy are my second favorites because they display their signature style in such creative ways without losing their voice. The rest of the couture designers each have a distinctive voice that is clearly conveyed through their pieces. I don’t always “get” their message or source of inspiration but they are good at what they do.

Couture makes me want to be a better seamstress and create garments as beautiful as the ones on display.

Here’s my top two from each designer:

Alexis Mabille

Anne Valérie Hash

Armani Privé

Continue on to see more from Chanel, Dior, etc.

Chanel

Christian Dior

Givenchy

Thimister

*All photos from Style.com