Tuktuk! Tuktuk? Ah, how he asked, and how he smiled at each of the foreigners passing by—smiling regardless of countless silent rejections and regardless of the drivers who surround him and shout the same words, waving their hands and jostling their motorbikes—how he bared his white teeth in one good-natured grin after another, widening his eyes, nodding to his tuktuk, revving the engine, for hours and hours without a single fare. He met wandering eyes and waved as if to long-lost friends, he fought all the thirst and hunger inside his body, he breathed the poison fumes rippling in the heat, and he wiped the sweat from his forehead as the sun climbed to the top of the sky.

How many years, tuktuk driver, have you stood on this sidewalk and sought the fares of tourists? Will you ever pay off the debt that allowed you to buy the bike and the carriage to begin with? Each night he dreams of tourists begging him for a lift on their hands and knees, and in the future he can see a legion of his own tuktuks patrolling the streets, each cushion in the carriage lined with a golden trim. Success, limitless wealth, warehouses ringing with mounds of coins. His children try on their flashy clothes in the mirror, laughing together with his beautiful wife, and his house rises into the blue sky like the sun…

Tuktuk?! Bokbok!

It happens in a moment, but nobody notices it because it’s happened too many times before: one becomes what one mimics. A new chicken flaps its wings beside the greasy motorcycle wheels, utterly confused, far more confused than chickens usually are, until a boot kicks it out of the way, and a new driver seizes the bike, the carriage, and even the family, for himself. A cloud of white, floating feathers is all that’s left of the old chicken, who forgets that he was once a man. As he seats himself on his new ride the fresh, young driver catches the eye of a tourist and speaks the words that may very well doom him to transformation or metempsychosis in the future:

Tuktuk!

Photographed by shapeshift

One of the many tuk tuk drivers on the street near Khoasan Road. Bangkok, Thailand.

– License

auf dem weg zurück ins hotel sind wir dann auch mit nem tuk tuk gefahren .. zu 4. auf nem mofa war uns dann doch zu heiss

Geen zorgen, die titel is gewoon een truc om lezers te trekken! :p
Alles is in orde.

Ik zit nog steeds in Bangkok, was de eerste dagen zo moe van de reis en alle indrukken dat ik maar besloten heb om dagtrips te maken. Zondag ga ik naar Cambodja.

De afgelopen week heb ik heel veel gedaan: Tijger tempel, watervallen, Bridge over the River Kwai, olifanten rijden, sky bar (trendy bar boven op een wolkenkrabber!), thai massage, fish massage, beetje gewinkeld, PingPong Show (:O later meer), real floating market, schorpioenen, sprinkhanen en meelwormen gegeten. En nog veel meer! Heb ook veel andere reizigers ontmoet en elke avond gaan we wel iets drinken. Gezellig!

Ook ben ik erachter gekomen dat Tuktuk en taxi niet efficient zijn, maar de Motor taxi dat wel is, echt heel stoer! De motor gaat overal doorheen en staat nooit stil. Dus erg Bangkok dangerous Jan en ik hebben wel een stoere Tuktuk rit gehad, waar we de chauffeur hebben overgehaald om een wheelie te maken!! Dat was echt lachen!

Als het goed is doet mijn Macbook het morgen weer, dan zal ik fotos uploaden en een langere blog plaatsen. Ik moet nu gaan, want dit internet cafe is niet 24 uur per dag geopend.. Dus word eruit gezet!

Earlier this October, WOK took a side-trip to one of the Philippines neighboring country in Southeast Asia. Known to be the Land of Smiles, and the land of golden temples, leaning buddhas and elephants -Thailand is simply amazing. A country not far different from the Philippines in terms of the weather, its side streets, traffic jams, street foods, cheap finds and not to mention most of the Thais looked like Filipinos. But what’s great about Thailand is that most of its historical landmarks, temples and canals are kept intact and well-preserved for everyone to see. Dilapidated roofs of temples are even rehabilitated and missing pieces of their intricately-designed temple walls are also carefully replaced. The thais give utmost importance to their culture and it is obvious with the number of wonderful places to see in their country. But Thailand is not all about temples, because it is also a shopping haven to those who are in search of great cheap finds. Shopping Malls, Bazaars, Night markets are all over the place. It’s no wonder why Thailand is known for Jatujak – the largest weekend market in the world. If money is not a problem then literally, “you can shop, till you drop”. For graphic t-shirt aficionados like me, Thailand is the best place to splurge all your money. Anyway, here are some of the snapshots I’ve taken in Thailand:

On the way to the city...

Upon arrival at the airport, we rode a Taxi going to the city proper in Pratunam. Taxis cost 700 baht (approx. P1,000). I was surprised their high way is very spacious.

BKK by night

Took this shot from our hotel room. We stayed at Baiyoke Sky hotel, which is known to be the tallest building in Thailand.

Traffic Jam in Thailand

Traffic is not only in Manila, but also in Thailand. This photo was taken in Pratunam, the building at the right side of the photo is the Platinum Fashion Mall – great buys and bargains can be found here.

Thai street food

This street vendor is selling a street food similar to the Longanisa (pork sausage in skewers) of the Philippines.

Thai street performer

I really have no idea what his photos are for. Maybe for publicity purposes? Oh well, he sings, I mean lip sync, very well.

Thailand's famous Tuktuk

Named as such because of the sound its engine makes. A common scene in Thailand, the Tuktuk is a fun ride, well, for tourists. It’s a bit pricey compared to the normal Taxis but it is a must that you bargain first for the price before riding one.

• FOOTPRINTS

WAT PHO TEMPLE (Wat Phra Chetuphon)

Known to be the oldest temple in Bangkok and is famous because of its largest reclining Buddha. Entrance to the Wat Pho temple is 20 baht (approx 30 Pesos).

One of the temple's façade inside Wat Pho

A flower offering at the temple

Golden Buddhas lined up at the Wat Pho temple

Almost 95% of the Thai population are buddhist reason why images like these are revered in Thailand.

Chedi at Wat Pho temple

These bell-like structures are called Chedi, Pagoda or Stupa. These colorful and intricately designed structures are sacred in Thai temples because underneath the Chedi (specifically the big ones) contains relics of revered monks.

Belfry or Bell Tower

A pyramid-like structure inside the Wat Pho temple

You think this Buddha is large? Check out the next photo.

The Reclining Buddha

This golden plated buddha is the biggest buddha I have ever seen in my life – it is massive and huge! It is 46 meters long and 15 meters high and depicts the passing of Buddha into nirvana.

Wat Pho temple in Bangkok is just one of the amazing temples in Thailand. For sure there are still more to see.

Floating Market (Damnoen Saduak)

From Bangkok, you have to travel approx. 1 and half hours going to Damnoen Saduak. I joined a tourist van, and I was the only Filipino amongst the tourists. We were then dropped off in a terminal and from there we rode a sampan (long narrow boat) going to the market itself. Upon arrival at the “floating market” I was a bit discouraged because the place was literally full of tourists. I was expecting to see the real thing – the old and traditional way locals buy their goods. But I enjoyed the ride still, and here are some of the snapshots I’ve taken.

Sampan (long-tail boat). Most sampans are adorned with flowers such as this.

Top view of the floating market.

Son of the sampan driver.

A sampan driver plying through the floating market.

A floating market vendor selling breakfast.

These coconut pancakes is a must-try at the Floating market.

Various tropical fruits are sold at the floating market.

• FAVORITES

Elephants

Elephants play an important role in thai culture and beliefs. Elephant insignias, statues, emblems, key chains, and even elephant underwear are all over the place. It is believed that white elephants are the most significant among its kind because they depict royalty. As a tribute and to pay respect to these pachyderms,the thais observe March 13 as Elephant day.

In the city, it is rare to see a real elephants walking around the sidewalks. But I was lucky enough to see a real elephant – up-close and personal at the Samphran Elephant Ground and Zoo @ Damnoek Saduak, near the floating market.

Colorful ribbons are used to adorn these elephants.

Trinkets of yellow-orange flowers are offered to the elephants.

You can ride these elephants @ the Samphran Elephant Ground and Zoo.

The Eye

Elephant butts

Chatuchak Weekend Market (also known as JJ)

Yup, it’s a weekend market so you can only splurge on weekends. Open every Saturday and Sunday, Chatuchak is the largest weekend market in the world. From clothes, shoes, home furnitures, pets and pet supplies, books, souvenir items – anything you can think of can be found here. The good thing about this place is that you can bargain and most stores sell their items on wholesale prices. Just make sure you have enough money and energy to explore every stall. Just by thinking about it, I’m getting tired because the place is really big. But for sure this a shopping haven for shopaholics out there. And by the way, try their Ice Candy on stick, vendors sell them in JJ.

Next time I visit Chatuchak, I will hoard all the graphic t-shirts!!!!

Ice Candy on Stick - they even have PEPSI, SPRITE and ROYAL flavors.

Cabbages and Condoms

Cabbages and Condoms is a concept restaurant established by the Population & Community Development Association of Thailand (PDA), a non-government organization in their country. It aims to promote ’safe sex’ and HIV-AI awareness. The restaurant offers wide array of sumptuous Thai dishes and proceeds from every order will be used to fund their programs. Anyway, the restaurant is really inviting and the food is really great! Don’t be surprised if condoms are all over the place, and they are for free! If I will be given the chance to think of tagline for C&C it will go like this: Cabbages and Condoms: Eat and Be Merry after! Definitely, a must-visit in Bangkok. (Thanks Ingrid for the suggestion to visit this place)

The Al fresco area of the restaurant.

Flower made out of (unused) condoms.

What was Santa thinking? Please don't give the kids condoms this Christmas.

It's your choice: Republican or Democrat?

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Thailand’s domestic and international airport. One of the cleanest and biggest airports I’ve seen as of now. I was amazed with the number of foreign visitors in Thailand, they are everywhere and I guess foreign tourists are more than their local tourists. They must be promoting their tourism very well!

Suvarnabhumi Airport exterior

Being immersed in thai culture and with its people for a few days has been a wonderful experience. I never felt culture shocked in BKK, because aside from the fact that we look like the thais, there are also lot of similarities with the place, culture and values of the Filipinos. I salute the thais for taking care and preserving their country’s heritage and culture. For sure, the places that has been featured here in WOK are only few of the amazing places to visit in Thailand. For now, Sawadee krap, Thailand!

Aaahhh Cambodia… We watch it in travel documentaries, we read it in history books, we saw it in Tomb Raider, we talk about it and dream about it. Who would’ve thought we’d see it this lifetime? It was almost surreal arriving at the Siem Reap Airport. And when we were greeted by our host Meang together with the tuk-tuk driver Piron, we felt like we were in a dream… Mainly because he said “kamusta?” which is “how are you?” in Tagalog, Ron and I instantly reacted in unison–”Pilipino ka?”. Meang is fluent in Tagalog because he spent several years in Makati to study and work.

The pick-up was free and it’s good old Khmer style ride–The Tuktuk. we were taken on a sight seeing pre-tour around the city. It was scorching hot but the fact that I am inhaling Cambodian dust was enough for me to suck in my complaints and enjoy the ride.

I booked a different hotel initially but Ron decided to change it after seeing the website for Prohmroth Guesthouse. When we got there, I was happy we decided to make the change. The room was nothing short of perfect. It was huge and homey and our toilet tissue was pink. We had our own bathroom and a queen-sized bed which was totally opposite of what we had in Kuala Lumpur. We opened the window and there was a temple that greeted us. I had to restrain myself from taking bricks that are shaped like little buddhas.

View from our room

But it wasn’t really just the nice ambiance and the huge bed that would make us book this hotel again when we go back to Cambodia. It’s Meangsophean Suon and his family that made our experience wonderful to the Nth power. He arranged our tuk-tuk ride for three days. He gave us tips on our tour. He reserved a seat for us when we wanted to watch Apsara. He even took Ron on a food trip on our last night. He was more than a landlord to us and up until now, we still keep corresponding. We would never want to stay anywhere else.

Facade of Prohm Roth Guesthouse

Ron with our Khmer friends

Prohm Roth Guesthouse
# 251 Pub Street extension, Phum Mondul I,Khum Svay Dangkum,
Siem Reap Angkor City, Kingdom Of Cambodia.
Phone: +855 (0)12 46 64 95, (0)17 356 817
Email: prohmroth_guesthouse@yahoo.com or smart_khmer@yahoo.com

FLIP’N PERKS: when you arrive/book for reservation, tell them that you heard it from us, and they will give you a discount!

Check out what other backpackers has to say, CLICK HERE!

and oh! they got the best hotel/hostel breakfast that we experienced to date. That one deserves a separate article.

Sorry, I was away.

Tuk tuks are three wheeler cars come bikes cum robin reliants…..called tuk tuks cos of the noise they make!!!!……heres a pic……..

here’s a video of one of my rides home in a tuk tuk, it goes from the subway station up the street where i live!!!!

Bermodalkan konfirmasi booking hotel di Siem Reap via internet dan janji dari hotel untuk mengirim jemputan di bandara aku menaiki pesawat Silkair MI633 yang lepas landas tepat waktu dari Changi Airport. Penerbangan 2 jam 10 menit dengan hot meal dan tiba pukul 15.45 di Siem Reap International Airport.

Turun dari pesawat Silkair melalui tangga dan berjalan sepelemparan batu ke bangunan bandara sederhana  seukuran Talang Betutu dulu. Begitu melewati pintu arrival hall sekitar 20 meter tiba pada antrian visa on arrival. Dengan fotokopi paspor, e-ticket dan pasfoto yang sudah disiapkan, ditambah 20 USD, tak sampai 10 menit aku sudah keluar dari bandara dan mencari supir yang membawa karton bertuliskan namaku.

Vutha, nama supir tuktuk itu dan begitu mendengar asalku dari Indonesia, ia bercerita kalau ayahnya fasih berbicara Bahasa Indonesia karena dulu tempat tinggal mereka dekat dengan komplek pasukan UNTAC PBB dari Indonesia.

Perjalanan 20 menit dengan tuktuk, kendaraan mirip bajaj tapi lebih besar dan hanya beratap, mengantarku ke penginapan “Golden Temple Villa”. Ternyata hotel ini terletak di jalan kecil masuk dari Sivatha Boulevard yang rusak dan berdebu. Hotel ini dipilih setelah mempertimbangkan beberapa testimoni pengunjung hotel yang dimuat di Virtual Tourist. Pada awalnya sempat terbersit rasa kecewa tapi pada malam itu aku bersyukur hotel ini tidak berada di jalan utama Sivatha Blvd karena tidak begitu banyak kendaraan roda empat yang melalui jalan kecil ini sehingga debu tidak sebanyak di jalan Sivatha.

Teras Hotel

Kamar 68

Pada saat check in aku langsung membayar 3 USD untuk mengejar sunset di Phnom Bakheng memakai tuktuk Vutha. Hanya sempat meletakkan tas, mengambil kamera, aku kembali duduk di tuktuk Vutha menuju komplek Angkor Wat.

Tiba di pintu tiket aku ditawari pilihan tiket 2 hari seharga USD 40 atau 1 hari seharga USD 20. Karena sore itu sudah pukul 5 maka tanggal berlaku akan mulai dihitung besok, dengan pertimbangan itu aku memilih tiket sehari. Di tiket tercetak foto yang diambil melalui webcam, tanggal berlaku serta nationality. Tiket ini berlaku untuk memasuki seluruh candi di Siem Reap.

Monsoon sunset di Phnom Bakheng

Phnom Bakheng tidak terlalu penuh karena saat ini masih Monsoon dan faktor monsoon ini pula yang membuat sore itu mendung, awan tebal hingga sore mulai gelap…gagal misi sunset sore itu. Malam itu aku habiskan berjalan ke arah Pub Street 9 dan makan Fried Rice.

Kembali ke hotel aku pesan paket “Small Tour” plus sunrise yang dibandrol USD 12 dengan janji jam 4.30 pagi ditunggu Vutha di lobby.

Small Tour meliputi Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Victory Gate, Thommanom, Chau Say Thevoda, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, Sras Srang, Prasat Kravan. Semua candi ini terletak dalam suatu komplek besar. Sekitar  pukul 3.30 pagi ….hujan. Aku turun ke lobby memanfaatkan komputer dan sarana  internet yang tersedia hingga hujan berhenti sesaat menjelang pukul 5 pagi. Aku naik ke kamar dan meraih kamera lalu turun dan menemui Vutha yang sudah siap.

Sampai di Angkor Wat sudah ramai terutama turis  yang tampaknya punya kesempatan..now or never sedang yang memiliki waktu lebih panjang di Siem Reap, memilih kesempatan esok hari.

Sekali lagi…monsoon..menyebabkan sunrise diliputi mendung.

Angkor Wat dikenal memiliki arsitektur yang simetris seluas 1,5 km x 1,3 km hingga merupakan bangunan religius terbesar. Batuan untuk membangun candi ini diambil dari daerah Svay Leu yang berjarak 50 km jauhnya.

Angkor Wat

Hingga terang baru kami beranjak ke candi lain, Bayon berada tepat di tengah Angkor Thom yang memiliki 5 pintu masuk. Terdapat 216 stupa di Bayon, terkenal dengan raut wajah yang dipercaya serupa dengan raja Jayavarman VII.

Bayon sedang dalam restorasi dengan biaya dari Japan Funds

Everpresent faces in Bayon, center of Angkor Thom

Bayon

Banyak dari candi kecil yang kurang menarik karena sudah tidak terlihat bentuknya, kulewati.

Ta Prohm menjadi sangat terkenal karena keunikan bersatunya alam dan bangunan buatan manusia. Keadaan candi ini dibiarkan dalam keadaan seperti pada saat ditemukan oleh peneliti Eropa pada pertengahan abad 19 kecuali beberapa penguatan struktur dan pembangunan jembatan atau undakan kayu untuk melindungi pohon yang melilit batuan candi.

Film Tomb Raider yang dibintangi Angelina Jolie sebagai Lara Croft menambah kepopuleran situs ini. Ta Prohm juga sedang dalam proses renovasi dengan bantuan pemerintah India.

Pekerja restorasi

The Apsaras

Sedangkan Srah Srang ( royal bath ) merupakan suatu baray, waduk penampung air sejak 9 abad yang lalu. Berukuran 700m x 350m  dengan Singa penjaga dan Naga balustrade ( railing ).

Naga Balustrade

Hingga pukul 11 small tour ini selesai. Aku minta Vutha mengantar ke Banteay Srei yang cantik itu yang berada dalam paket Grand Tour, senilai USD10. Grand Tour mencakup Banteay Srei, Pre Rup, east Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Pean, Preah Khan dan North Gate of Angkor Thom.

Banteay Srei “berarti Citadel of the Woman” terletak 30 km sebelah barat Angkor Wat. Diyakini dibangun oleh tangan para wanita karena kehalusan dan rincinya ukiranini. Terdiri dari pink sandstone.

Banteay Srei

detail ukiran

Pre Rup

Banteay Samre

Sepanjang perjalanan kearah barat ini kehidupan penduduknya tampak berbeda dengan suasana pedesaan. Rumah berbentuk panggung tinggi dengan pemanfaatan kolong untuk tempat menyimpan traktor, lori hingga menjadi ruang santai dengan meja makan dan hammock.

Halamanpun digunakan untuk memasak snack kue kering yang terbuat dari santan dan gula. Setelah kering kue ini dibungkus daun kelapa dan dijual bersama buah tangan lain di saung pinggir jalan.

Rumah di pedesaan

Berjualan di halaman rumah

Coockies berbahan santan dan gula 1000 Riel segulungnya

Sekitar pukul 14 aku sudah kembali ke hotel dan memesan makan siang di coffee shop, “Khmer Amok” dan Ice Coffee. Amok terdiri dari pilihan daginga ayam, sapi atau babi yang dimasak bersama rajangan daun cauliflower dan bumbu Amok yang merupakan padanan rempah2. Aku memilih Chicken Amok…..Enak.

Chicken Khmer Amok

Sore itu kembali mendung bahkan lebih tebal dari kemarin, jadi tak ada gunanya memaksa ke Phnom Bakheng. Aku pergi kearah street 8 dan 9 mengunjungi toko yang menjual selendang dan taplak meja makan dari bahan semacam songket. Benar saja belum lewat jam 5 hujan mulai turun lagi. Malam itu aku memilih makan di kamar dengan memesan kacang panjang tumis with lots of mince meat.

Pagi itu acara bebas dan aku memilih keliling “Old Market”. Seperti di Vietnam, menyenangkan sekali keliling pasar dengan kamera, bebas tanpa gangguan dan tidak ada yang norak bergaya pada saat kamera dijepret, semua sibuk dengan aktifitasnya hanya kadang kala mereka tersenyum saat digoda yang lain. Walau tidak terbagi rapi berdasarkan jenis dagangan tapi menarik, karena kios yang menjual souvenir dan kain tenun mengelompok di 2 sisi luar pasar sedang 1 sisi yang lain diisi dengan penjual ikan asin. Di dalam los bercampur antara penjual ikan, ayam, sayuran, sepatu, makanan jadi dan salon kecantikan.

Kios makanan awetan dan ikan asin

Selesai di Old Market, aku berjalan kearah National Route No 6 melalui Sivatha Blvd. Tujuannya Royal Residence dan Royal Independence Gardens.

Ya-Tep Shrine di bawah rindang pohon tepat di tengah persimpanangan jalan National Route No.6

Royal Independence Garden

Tuktuk

Terrasse des Elephants di Sivatha Blvd

Jalan kembali ke hotel aku memilih jalan Oum Chay Street dan Achemean Street dan Pub Street.

Selepas makan siang aku kembali diantar Tuktuk ke Angkor National Museum dari sana berjalan menyusuri Pokambor Street ditepi Siem Reap River.

Piknik keluarga di tepi Siem Reap River

French Quarter

Ruang tunggu bandara

Kembali Vutha mengantar ke Bandara untuk kembalike Singapura dgn MI 636. Setelah check in, bayar airport tax USD 25 …heading back home.

I had a blinding massage tonight.

Seriously feels wrong having a full hour for just ten measly dollars, but when in Rome….

One thing I was a little miffed by, I never managed to see any traditional Khmer dancing when during my week here.

So post massage, the tuktuk took the scenic route to the restaurant I asked for (good job I haggled up front), and as we swung by the grassy knoll outside the royal palace. My karaoke-dar could hear some singing, and huge crowds dancing.

I asked him to stop for a minute and we wandered over. There were some made up beauties giving it some, and hoards of men around them cutting shapes. That’s the only way I can describe it.

The only time I’ve seen men (or anyone for that matter), dance in a similar way, they were absolutely off their tits in Tintins, or Subway back in the 90’s. A quick dinner, one Beer Laos too many, and it’s time to pack for my early flight to Singapore in the morning…

Iain has rather enjoyed his spell in Cambodia. And could do with a Brummy Thursday night roar soon…

I promised myself two things.

1. I would read every word in every exhibit and look in the eyes of every photo of every man, woman and child on show.
2. I would not cry.

Knowing a guide would be great for additional information but would rush me round, I declined the offer and pushed on. Particularly as the cheeky bitch on the entry gate tried to charge me four times the going rate!

So, for now, I’ll start with the killing fields. About 20 minutes out of town in a tuktuk, the journey takes you through some of the real mayhem you expect to see in Asia. Stacks of pedestrians, motorbikes and tuktuks taking on drivers. Three or four generations of one family huddled together on a tiny little moped, two of them casually sat not hanging onto a thing.

Street stalls and vendors screaming and selling. Open sewers, rotting garbage, the elderly, the destitute, the wealthy all rubbing along side by side going about their daily business. Usually as loud as possible. And then we arrive.

A stark contrast to the calm, quiet, serene vibe found at the killing fields of Cheung Ek where many people from S21 were killed. There is a small museum building, a video, the central stupa and a few plaques on the way. Eerily quiet, the stupa with many skulls on show is surprisingly easy to deal with. Bones only represent what is left behind when we die. The real horrors for me lay in the museum.

Tuol Sleng (link and place not for the faint hearted),  is one of the most remarkable museums I have ever visited. This former suburban high school was turned into one of the regimes maximum security detention centres, where some 20,000 men, women, children (foreigners, Cambodians and even some Khmer Rouge themselves), were interrogated, tortured, maimed, usually before being shipped off to be killed at Chueng Ek.

There were four school buildings, each demonstrating the horror, pain and brutality the Khmer inflicted on their own people. The tiny cramped cells had a strange feel to them. I’d never understood the phrase ‘death hung in the air’ until today.

The larger cells for the VIP’s were even worse. A huge room, a small bed with a blanket and a tiny cushion. Instruments of torture still litter the rooms, the interrogation area outside still standing.

The rooms the museum has since turned into exhibit areas still have  prisoner cell numbers on the wall. No detail missed, no horror left untold. Barbed wire still surrounds the compound, and the balconies on the higher floors. Just in case the prisoners escaped, they couldn’t jump to their deaths. Just get caught in barbed wire and increase their suffering, prolong their slow protracted death.

The bit that really choked me was the photographs. Like the Nazis, the Khmer Rouge documented everything. Photographs on arrival, before & after torture, as well as the obligatory photograph to close the file upon death.

I kept my first promise.

I walked round the entire place slowly. I read every word and I looked at every photograph of every individual on show. What struck me was the look in so many of their eyes. Some defiant, some filled with hope, many even smiling as they were in front of the camera. Such a sad and tragic waste. Some really leapt out, whether it be their looks, their smile, their pained expressions. But the looks on the faces of those that were crushed?

Well, I’d like to think was not because their spirit had been broken, but because they could not understand how a fellow man (or woman, as they were guards too), could inflict such pain on another human soul.

I don’t know if I believe people can be born evil. But I know I would sooner die myself than take a baby by the legs, and break it’s skull beating it against a tree. That’s what they did. If you are killing, kill the whole family. If not, someone might just grow up and come and take revenge. Such unbelievable brutality.

It’s been a rough day, but I would encourage you to go if you visit Cambodia. If we don’t learn from these events, then I fail to see how we will ever evolve. Today, every photo that was there, I looked at. But for every photo out there I haven’t seen, for every soul that was touched by this brutal regime, I want you to know you are remembered, and in my prayers.

Iain didn’t keep his second promise today…

The rules at detention centre S21.

Would I have lasted from the 12th century if I were in Peckham?

A few things as I pause from ongoing templeage…

• Am off the beaten track today. Smaller temples, largely just me, no tourists. Heaven…
• Despite having been wronged by most civilised nations, the Cambodians are a remarkably tolerant, open, welcoming, friendly race
• The ‘you waaan baaaaay teeeeshaaaaat meeeestaaaaaah?’, doesn’t grate. Despite hearing it a hundred times an hour, it’s done with such charm
• And they can close a sale better than most professional salespeople back home. Talk about objection handling!
• Aside from the odd faint hum of a tuktuk, and the odd local ramble, I could be hear alone. Silence is golden, and I could sit here for hours watching the ants crawl by, the butterflies sail through the air, as the ancient temples stand over yet another day…

I won’t though.

Coffee, a very late lunch and a massage are all waiting for me. Am loving this back to nature moment, but c’mon. A two hour massage for less than 25 dollars?

I’d be mad not to….

Iain could be a monk. For a week or two at least…

Well, Asia wouldn’t be Asia without a deathtrap tuktuk ride now, would it?

It lashed down with rain for 30mins about 5pm. Properly torrential. Which was nice in the way really hard rain can be. A lot of the side / smaller roads aren’t too road like, so it was a rather bumpy ride.

Factor in a bike that’s probably not seen a service since 1972, and, well, you get the idea. That and actually picking a side of the road to travel on. It’s broadly the right, but this seems entirely at the drivers discretion…

Several wheel spins, one near tip (and a quick word to Ganesha), we make it to Blue Pumpkin (highly recommended by KC). Its clearly something of a Cambodian institution.

Downstairs, we have tables spilling onto the busy street. Inside downstairs, very average café like.

Upstairs however, is mostly white. Extended sofa type beds mean you can kick your shoes off and stretch out. Perfection…

The comfy Blue Pumpkin

Special little tables allow your food to perch around your bad self, assuming you get round to feeding yourself. If only I could stretch out and have someone feed me grapes….

Big ceiling fans keep you cool, and the free wireless ensures them regular visitation from the laptop luvvies. Handy, as the wireless in my hotel is about as reliable as 3 broadband customer services back in Blighty. Bad…

The waiter, well, he’s his own variety of delectable. No doubt Lady Muck (whose boyfriend seemed to like that nickname), wouldn’t approve, him being a worker and all….

Skipping back to KL for a moment if I may (almost over the lack of koala / oompaloompa sightings), when we were at the meeting at the airline, she noticed me clock a very fit, very handsome, and rather dirty technician in an overall.

Quite short, but muscled, stunning pearly whites, and a wicked grin I could read from 60,000 feet. He could easy have posed for an Asian Anne Geddes catalogue. Or, did she do babies? I’m thinking of the dude with two big car tyres greased up in overalls. Meh, anyhoo…

A slap to the arm, a firm yank, a loud no and marching orders proceeded. I was left somewhat stunned…

I was horrified to learn, I could do better than ‘a worker’. I mean, me and a worker, perish the thought ladies and gentleman. He was a baggage handler, therefore in a lowly social class all of his own. Apparently…

My argument of him not being for Christmas (well, it worked for all those puppies), didn’t wash. A valiant effort on my part, but it seems the race / sex / status fixations in Singapore run deep. And I thought we were class obsessed in Britain.

Still, beer number two beckons. The signature fish ravioli in coconut sauce was rather special. Very melt in the mouth. Speaking of which, that waiters smile, could melt a lot more.

Note to self, no more beer here. I don’t have Robert Redford’s millions after all!

Iain doesn’t want to leave Blue Pumpkin…

Nå er jeg fremme. Aner ikke helt hva klokka er. Det rabla for en tysk dame på flyet, så det ble ikke så mye søvn. Hun måtte puttes i håndjern og få et håndklede over hodet så hun ikke spyttet på folk. Men det var ikke noe problem, den stakkars lille dama ble ekskortert ut av 14 bevepnede politimenn på flyplassen, så saken er tatt hånd om. Ved annkomst var det”swine-flu” sjekk. Tre ganger ble jeg målt med et IR-Termometer (fåes på clas ohlson ca. 700 kr) i panna. 36,5 grader. Etter den ommfattende helsesjekken fikk jeg stempel og var erklert frisk.

Ut av flyplassen ble vi møtt av den karakteristiske “veggen” av varme og lukter. + at det var kanskje 300 indiere som hang over annkomstgjerdet for å hilse på. turen fra Chennai til Pondicherry med buss var lang, og psykadellisk. Jeg legger ut noen bilder senere. Stedet jeg bor på heter raja mason og hostes av papa raja og mama raji. Utrolige gjestmilde mennesker som lager fanntastisk mat. Jeg har kjørt tuktuk i dag (drosje med tre hjul) og det begynnte med at han kræsja i fortauskanten før han tok en usving midt på motorvegen mens han tuta muntert i hornet sitt. Trafikken i India er, som alle sier, helt sjuk.  I morra er det innformasjonsmøte.

Btw, jeg bor på rom med to svensker. Med dialekter fra hver sin side av det svanske land. Fanntastisk Det er WiFi i hyblene så jeg skriver nok litt mer her enn jeg først hadde planlagt.

Er tilbake om ikke lenge med fresh intel.

A video of my extremely reluctant departure.