Institutional shareholders in Dragon Oil have been rallying against majority shareholder Enoc’s (Emirates National Oil Co) offer of 455p a share, claiming that this undervalues the company. Now proxy shareholder agency Manifest has rowed in on the issue, raising concerns about the independence of the ‘independent committee’ which recommended the deal. It’s a small world in the oil business, and Enoc is owned by the Dubai government. Essentially, Manifest feels that there are too many links between the independent committee and the Dubai government. Manifest said that a non-executive director, a Mr al-Muhairbi, has been involved with Margham Dubai Establishment, a wholly Dubai governmentowned company. Another non-executive director, a Mr al-Mazrooei, is deputy vice-president of Operations at Dolphin Energy, which has signed a memorandum of understanding with the Dubai Supply Authority to provide gas from its fields in Qatar. Meanwhile, committee member Nigel McCue stands to gain stg£1.1 million from the exercise of options in the company and subsequent sale of the shares at the bid price. Ballie Gifford, the largest minority shareholder, Master Capital and Carmignac Gestion have all rejected the current offer, but Dragon Oil has said it won’t increase the price. The buyout is to be conducted through a scheme of arrangement, and Enoc has stated that it will not vote at the meeting to approve the scheme. If 12.125 per cent of the remaining shareholders vote against this, the bid will fail an outcome which looks increasingly likely.

http://thepost.ie/themarket/comment-greencore-wont-give-up-on-property-45941.html

Around this time of the year The Economist publishes its  annual publication, “The World in …” The 2010 edition just came out.  The prize is not something to be proud of.

This year’s prize, surprise, surprise, goes to an African country: Somalia, and claims it has good reasons:

“… Calling Somalia a country is a stretch. It has a president, prime minister and parliament, but with little influence outside a few strongholds in the capital, Mogadishu. What passes for a government is protected by an African Union peacekeeping force guarding the presidential palace. Most of the country is controlled by two armed, radical Islamist factions … Poor countries are often defined by their weak health, education and income measures, but conditions in Somalia are mostly too wretched to record…. “

Link.

Dedicata a Sandro Bondi, oggetto di scambio con una ministra del Turkmenistan

Si transita, come d’autunno, a via Gradoli, i viados

En el marco de la peregrinación anual (o Hajj) a la Meca, viaje que, en principio, todo musulmán debería hacer al menos una vez en la vida, las diferentes autoridades religiosas de Asia Central han dado los datos sobre las personas que han solicitado hacer la peregrinación hacia la Ciudad Santa.

La Administración de los Musulmanes de Kazajstán sitúa en unos 2.000 ciudadanos de este país los que se han embarcado en el viaje; en Uzbekistán, este número es de 5.000 personas, la misma que los provenientes de Tayikistán, mientras que de Kirguistán han salido unas 4.500 personas.

La nota discordante es Turkmenistán, que desde hace tiempo a promovido la visita a lugares sagrados dentro del país, en lugar de realizar el peregrinaje a Arabia Saudí; aemás, el número de participantes es sensibemente menor, apenas unas 200 personas.

Andrei Zatoka, un conocido activista medioambiental en todo el espacio postsoviético ha sido condenado a 5 años de prisión por un tribunal de la ciudad turkmena de Dashoguz.

Aparentemente, Zatoka, el pasado octubre, se vio involucrado en una pelea tras el ataque de un hombre sin identificar en plena vía pública. La policía, al acudir al lugar de los hechos, detuvo a Zatoka, que ha sido ahora condenado.

Sus compañeros y diferentes asociaciones de Derechos Humanos en Rusia han organizado protestas para denunciar lo que ellos ven como un caso de persecución política, ya que el régimen turkmeno lleva tiempo acosando a Zatoka y a algunos de sus colaboradores, como Farid Tukhbatullin, que se encuentra viviendo en el exilio.

Where is Turkmenistan? It is located in Central Asia, north of Iran. Voices of the Martyrs is asking people to pray for the Pastors and the Christians in Turkmenistan this week. Pastors are being arrested, the government is cracking down on house churches, and Praise God, the Body of Christ is growing!
Thank you for your prayers.
Rev79.

Avrebbe potuto chiedere qualcosa a proposito dei Diritti Umani, che ne so.

Il video potete trovarlo qui.

In case you are thinking of purchasing the new global version of Amazon’s Kindle for Christmas, be aware that there are still quite a few places that the global version will NOT work.  I was disappointed to find that the new version still will not work in my country.

Apparently the new global version will only work in SOME countries.   I thought it would be helpful to most expats to have a complete list of which countries it will, or will not work in (below).

It’s also interesting to note the PATTERN of groups of countries where the Kindle doesn’t work–some countries probably lack satellite coverage or delivery systems, while others probably don’t WANT readers to be able to download whatever they want by satellite.

STARRED (*) countries marked below indicate that Kindle needs to be ordered from a SPECIAL PAGE on the Amazon site.

The Global Kindle version DOES work in (as of Dec. 2009):

Aland Islands, Albania, American Samoa, Andorra, Angola, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Aruba, Australia*, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belarus, Belgium, Belize, Benin, Bermuda, Bhutan, Bolivia, Boznia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Brazil, Bulgaria, Burundi, Cambodia, Canada, Cape Verde, Cayman Islands, Central African Republic, Colombia, Comoros, Congo, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Cote d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Denmark, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Equatorial Guinea, Estonia, Ethiopia, Falkland Islands, Faroe Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Fiji, Finland, France, French Guiana, French Polynesia, Gabon, Georgia, Germany, Ghana, Gibraltar, Greece, Greenland, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Guam, Guatemala, Guernsey, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, Holy See, Honduras, Hong Kong, Hungary, Iceland, India, Ireland, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jersey, Kenya, Kiribati, Lao People’s Democratic Republic, Latvia, Liberia, Leichtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macao, Macedonia, Madagascar, Malawi, Malta, Marshall Islands, Martinique, Mauritius, Mayotte, Mexico, Moldovia, Monaco, Mongolia, Montenegro, Montserrat, Mozembique, Myanmar, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Netherlands, New Caledonia, Nicaragua, Niue, Norfolk Island, Northern Mariana Islands, Norway, Palau, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Puerto Rico, Romania, Russia, Rwanda, Réunion, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Sao Tome and Principe, Serbia, Seychelles, Slovakia, Slovenia, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka,  Suriname, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Tanzania, Timor-Leste, Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Turks and Caicos Islands, Tuvalu, Uganda, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Venezuela, Viet Nam, Virgin Islands – British, Virgin Islands – U.S.,  Wallis and Futuna, Zambia, Zimbabwe.

The Global Kindle version does NOT work in (as of Dec. 2009) the following countries:

Afghanistan, Algeria, Antarctica, Argentina, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Bouvet Island, British Indian Ocean Territory, Brunei Darussalam, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Chile, Chad, China, Christmas Island, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Cuba, Djibouti, Egypt, Eritrea, French Southern Territories, Gambia, Guinea, Heard Island and McDonald Islands, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Isle of Man, Israel, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Korea – Democratic People’s Republic of, Korea – Republic of, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Lesotho, Libya, Malaysia, Maldives, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco (including the Western Sahara), New Zealand, Niger, Nigeria, Oman, Pakistan, Palestinian Territories, Pitcairn, Qatar, Saint Barthelemy, Saint Helena, Saint Martin, Saint Pierre and Miquelon, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Somalia, South Georgia and the Sandwich Islands, Sudan, Svalbard and Jan Mayan, Syrian Arab Republic, Tajikistan, Thailand, Tokelau, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, United States Minor Outlying Islands, Uzbekistan,  Yemen.

November 25 is the International Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women. The white ribbon has become the symbol for the day.

Click on the picture to join the Community

Reporters sans Frontières è “sconvolta” dalla segretezza che ha circondato la visita in Italia del presidente turkmeno Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov. A Roma è arrivato il leader di uno dei paesi più repressivi del mondo, ieri ha incontrato una delegazione di uomini d’affari e oggi ha incontrato il primo ministro italiano Silvio Berlusconi.

Contattato da Reporters sans Frontières, la scorsa settimana, il Ministero italiano degli Affari Esteri ha negato ogni visita del presidente turkmeno. Le agenzie di stampa non avevano alcuna informazione. Gli uffici della Presidenza del Consiglio hanno poi spiegato che Berdymukhamedov arrivava in risposta ad un invito personale di Berlusconi e non per una visita di Stato.

“Tra capi del potere esecutivo non vi è alcun invito privato. Delle due cose l’una: o il regime turkmeno (173° su 175 nella classifica della libertà di stampa 2009 elaborata da RSF) è un tipo di un governo “normale”, e allora la visita del suo capo di Stato è un evento pubblico che dovrebbe di norma essere portato all’attenzione dell’opinione pubblica, oppure il regime non è “presentabile” e allora l’opportunità di incontrare il signor Berdymukhamedov dovrebbe essere almeno oggetto di un dibattito serio”.

Reporters sans Frontières ha aggiunto: “Il primo ministro italiano Berlusconi dovrebbe spiegare pubblicamente il suo comportamento e fornire dettagli sulle discussioni intercorse.”

L’Unione europea ha recentemente avviato un riavvicinamento con il Turkmenistan, considerato uno dei principali fornitori potenziali di gas per il suo gasdotto Nabucco. La Russia sta cercando di rinegoziare i termini per l’acquisto degli idrocarburi turkmeni e le prospettive di cooperazione con l’UE sono state confermate dall’International Forum 2009 “Petrolio e gas del Turkmenistan”, tenutosi dal 16 al 19 novembre a Ashgabat. Tra le società internazionali in competizione per i contratti di gas, l’italiana ENI è in buona posizione.

Dipendente dalle entrate provenienti dalle esportazioni del suo gas, il Turkmenistan cerca attivamente di diversificare i suoi sbocchi e di migliorare la sua immagine a livello internazionale. Dopo aver cercato di attirare gli investitori costruendo, nello scorso mese di giugno, una sorta di « Las Vegas turkmena » sul Mar Caspio – un progetto estremamente oneroso -, il governo ha annunciato l’inizio di una «rivoluzione elettronica» che dovrebbe in teoria rendere più efficace il suo operato. Ma questo cambiamento non deve fuorviare.

“All’inizio del 2009, il siluramento di due importanti esponenti del sistema della censura ufficiale aveva fatto credere in una relativa liberalizzazione del Paese. Ma dietro la facciata, nulla è cambiato e il Turkmenistan resta uno deiPaesi più repressivi del mondo per i giornalisti. L’universo mediatico nazionale non comprende la possibilità di critiche nei confronti del regime. Alcuni cybercaffè sono stati autorizzati, ma l’accesso ai siti dell’opposizione è bloccato, gli scambi di email sono sorvegliati e consultare siti d’informazione alternativi può essere pericoloso. Come prendere sul serio le velleità riformatrici di un regime che esorta i giornalisti locali ad ispirarsi al lavoro dei media stranieri ma che poi non permette a nessun giornalista o studente turkmeno di uscire dal Paese?”, continua RSF.

Lo scorso 20 ottobre, il ricercatore e militante ecologista Andreï Zatoka è stato arrestato con moventi completamente prefabbricati dalle autorità. Nove giorni dopo è stato condannato a cinque anni di carcere. Solo grazie alla sua doppia nazionalità (russo-turkmena) e alle pressioni di Mosca, – per una volta d’accordo con la comunità internazionale – Zatoka è stato liberato ed espulso in Russia.

I collaboratori locali dei media stranieri rischiano continuamente di essere perseguitati dalle autorità. Il sistema di intimidazioni è tale che i giornalisti turkmeni sollecitati dai giornali stranieri rifiutano categoricamente di lavorare per loro. L’esempio di Sapardourdy Khadjiev e di Annakourban Amanklytchev contribuisce a perpetuare la paura. I due giornalisti sono stati condannati a 6 e 7 anni di detenzione nel 2006 per “possesso di munizioni illegali”, dopo aver lavorato per la società audiovisiva francese Galaxie-Presse che preparava un reportage sul Turkmenistan per il canale France 2. Secondo recenti testimonianze, le condizioni di salute dei due giornalisti si sono deteriorate: sono colpiti da svariate infezioni (in particolare allo stomaco, ai reni), e da dolori alle gambe e alle articolazioni. Non possono beneficiare di cure mediche adeguate, e nessuna organizzazione internazionale, neanche il CICR, è autorizzata a fare loro visita. Inoltre, i loro familiari ed amici, esattamente come quelli di Ogoulsapar Mouradova –corrispondente di Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty morta in carcere sotto i colpi dei suoi carcerieri, non sono autorizzati a lasciare il Paese, sono intercettati, vengono ostacolati nella loro ricerca di un lavoro o nei loro studi.

“Deve essere chiaro al governo italiano, come agli altri paesi membri dell’Unione europea, che l’apertura commerciale e diplomatica verso il Turkmenistan non può trascurare la situazione dei diritti umani e della libertà di la stampa,” ha concluso la organizzazione.

Per approfondimenti sui rapporti tra Unione europea e Turkmenistan, si faccia riferimento anche al rapporto di Global Witness: “All that Gas? The EU and Turkmenistan“:
http://www.globalwitness.org/media_library_detail.php/879/en/all_that_gas_the_eu_and_turkmenistan

By Gary Rotto

SAN DIEGO–The tensions around the Goldstone Report ( Report of the United Nations Fact Finding Mission on the Gaza Conflict) have died down for the moment.  But hard feelings still remain in the community regarding the report and the resulting resolution in Congress.  Congressman Filner clearly communicated his feelings and his thinking around the resolution.  He has “mishpachah” in Israel with whom he consulted.  His response to SDJW questions were fair and well thought out.   And may be factually based.  But politics is – especially geopolitical – are based on perception.

The Jewish community reaction to the Goldstone Report may not be so much about the actual information in the report, but the visceral feeling that the United Nations seems fixated on the Middle East, and in particular, the Arab-Israeli, or Palestinian-Israel conflict.

Back on October 2, 2006, as Kofi Annan’s term as the Secretary General of the United Nations was coming to a close, Human Rights Watch reflected on the tasks ahead for his successor.  While praising Annan’s dedication to human rights and the creation of the UN Human Rights Council (HRC), Human Rights Watch openly criticized the HRC. “The Human Rights Council has so far stumbled because of its relative fixation on Israel, while failing to take concrete steps to address other serious human rights situations as well. It has yet to show that it is willing to take firm, collective action against intransigent governments engaged in systemic rights violations.”  The article on its website goes on to say that “The incoming secretary-general must work to ensure that the Human Rights Council is both more credible and more effective than its predecessor.”

One of the giants in the world of Human Rights monitoring, Felice Gaer, severely criticized the Goldstone Report.  Her career in the human rights community has included membership on the Council on Foreign Relations, serving as chair of the steering committee for the 50th anniversary of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, and as a member of the Carter Center’s International Human Rights Council since 1994.  As reported in the New Jersey Jewish News, Gaer called the report “a biased mandate by a biased group of people.”  The biased group of people is the HRC.

Jackson Diehl, Deputy Editorial Page Editor of the Washington Post noted after the HRC’s first year that “Genocide in Sudan, child slavery and religious persecution in China, mass repression in Zimbabwe and Burma, state-sponsored murder in Syria and Russia — and, for that matter, suicide bombings by Arab terrorist movements — will not receive systematic attention from the world body charged with monitoring human rights. That is reserved only for Israel, a democratic country that has been guilty of human rights violations but also has been under sustained assault from terrorists and governments openly committed to its extinction.”  In that first year, Israel and Israel alone was the only government criticized by name – and to the tune of 11 resolutions.

Freedom House, one of the preeminent “peace and democracy” institutions since 1941, in its 2009 Worst of the Worst report, which cites  the World’s Most Repressive Societies, lists Burma, Equatorial Guinea, Libya, North Korea, Somalia, Sudan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.

While Israel is imperfect, clearly, other nations and hot spots around the world deserve far greater attention from the HRC.  Only once a track record of tackling ongoing, regimented, government sponsored human rights violations in the areas around the world, will the Jewish community will feel that a Goldstone Report maybe even handed and fair and maybe justified.

*
Rotto is a freelance writer based in San Diego

The entrance to Nissa Copyright 2009 Bryan Moore

This was the Entrance to Nissa an ancient City, and one of the first thing I stopped at to see on my trip over Seas.  Traveling to see all these ruins  some had degraded so much that  they just looked like piles of mud but this one still had mud bricks in tact.  some bricks were new in the places where the country had tried to rebuild parts of the ruins other parts were old orignal bricks.  THe guide said that the old bricks  lasted longer than the new  even with modern technology  the ancient brick were made differently that allowed them to last

Amazon's Global Kindle Reader

I heard that Amazon now has a global version of Kindle. I was disappointed to find this morning that the new version still will not work in my country.

Since I’ve wanted one for some time, but have been waiting until they got a version that would work in my country, I checked out their website this morning, only to be disappointed again. Apparently the new global version will only work in SOME countries.

In case you are thinking of purchasing the new Global Kindle for a Christmas gift this year, since the new version will only work in SOME countries, I thought it would be helpful to most expats to have a complete list of which countries it will, or will not work in.

STARRED (*) countries marked below indicate that Kindle needs to be ordered from a SPECIAL PAGE on the Amazon site.

The Global Kindle version DOES work in (as of Dec. 2009):

Aland Islands, Albania, American Samoa, Andorra, Angola, Anguilla, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Aruba, Australia*, Austria, Bahamas, Barbados, Belarus, Belgium, Belize, Benin, Bermuda, Bhutan, Bolivia, Boznia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Brazil, Bulgaria, Burundi, Cambodia, Canada, Cape Verde, Cayman Islands, Central African Republic, Colombia, Comoros, Congo, Cook Islands, Costa Rica, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Cote d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Denmark, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Equatorial Guinea, Estonia, Ethiopia, Falkland Islands, Faroe Islands, Federated States of Micronesia, Fiji, Finland, France, French Guiana, French Polynesia, Gabon, Georgia, Germany, Ghana, Gibraltar, Greece, Greenland, Grenada, Guadeloupe, Guam, Guatemala, Guernsey, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, Holy See, Honduras, Hong Kong, Hungary, Iceland, India, Ireland, Italy, Jamaica, Japan, Jersey, Kenya, Kiribati, Lao People’s Democratic Republic, Latvia, Liberia, Leichtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macao, Macedonia, Madagascar, Malawi, Malta, Marshall Islands, Martinique, Mauritius, Mayotte, Mexico, Moldovia, Monaco, Mongolia, Montenegro, Montserrat, Mozembique, Myanmar, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Netherlands, New Caledonia, Nicaragua, Niue, Norfolk Island, Northern Mariana Islands, Norway, Palau, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Poland, Puerto Rico, Romania, Russia, Rwanda, Réunion, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Sao Tome and Principe, Serbia, Seychelles, Slovakia, Slovenia, Solomon Islands, South Africa, Spain, Sri Lanka, Suriname, Swaziland, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Tanzania, Timor-Leste, Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Turks and Caicos Islands, Tuvalu, Uganda, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Vanuatu, Venezuela, Viet Nam, Virgin Islands – British, Virgin Islands – U.S., Wallis and Futuna, Zambia, Zimbabwe.

The Global Kindle version does NOT work in (as of Dec. 2009):

Afghanistan, Algeria, Antarctica, Argentina, Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Bangladesh, Bouvet Island, British Indian Ocean Territory, Brunei Darussalam, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Chile, Chad, China, Christmas Island, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Cuba, Djibouti, Egypt, Eritrea, French Southern Territories, Gambia, Guinea, Heard Island and McDonald Islands, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Isle of Man, Israel, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Korea – Democratic People’s Republic of, Korea – Republic of, Kuwait, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Lesotho, Libya, Malaysia, Maldives, Mali, Mauritania, Morocco (including the Western Sahara), New Zealand, Niger, Nigeria, Oman, Pakistan, Palestinian Territories, Pitcairn, Qatar, Saint Barthelemy, Saint Helena, Saint Martin, Saint Pierre and Miquelon, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Somalia, South Georgia and the Sandwich Islands, Sudan, Svalbard and Jan Mayan, Syrian Arab Republic, Tajikistan, Thailand, Tokelau, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkmenistan, United Arab Emirates, United States Minor Outlying Islands, Uzbekistan, Yemen.

Özbek Hanlığı (Şibaniler) (1428-1599)

Batu Han’ın kardeşi Şiban soyundan gelen Ebulhayr Han devletin kurucusudur. Altınorda Hanı Özbek Han’ın ahfadından oldukları için devlete onun ismini vermişlerdir. Özbekler, 1428 yılında Ebulhayr’ı Sibir şehrinde han ilân etmişler ve Timurluların içine düştüğü karışıklıklardan yararlanan Ebulhayr Han da, 1431′de Gürgenç dahil olmak üzere Harezm’e, 1447′ye doğru da Seyhun dolaylarında Sığnak şehrinden Özkent’e kadar olan bölgeye hâkim olmuştur. Ancak 1457′deki Moğol kabilelerin saldırısı yeterli direnç gösterilmediği gerekçesiyle Özbeklerin bir kısmı Ebulhayr’ın hâkimiyetini tanımayarak kuzeye göç etmişlerdir. Bunlar kendi başlarına buyruk hareket ettiklerinden dolayı Kazak diye anılacaklardır.

Ebulhayr Han, Çağataylılar’dan Yunus Han’a karşı giriştiği mücadeleyi kaybederek 1468 yılında ölmüştür. Yerine geçen oğlu Şah-Budak Han ise Yunus Han ve Timurlulara karşı ülkesini koruyamamıştır. Onun yerine geçen oğlu Muhammed Şibani Han, önce Timurluların iç mücadelelerinden faydalanarak, Maverâün-nehr’i ele geçirmeyi başardı (1500). Ardından Çağataylılar’ı yenerek Taşkent ve Sayram bölgelerini (1503), Timurlular’ın elinden de Harezm, Belh ve Herat şehirlerini alarak Türkistan’ın en büyük gücü haline gelmiştir. Ancak Şibani Han, Merv’de Safevi Hükümdarı Şah İsmail ile yaptığı savaşı kaybederek öldü (1510).

Muhammed Şibani Han’dan sonra büyük bir sarsıntı geçiren Özbek Hanlığı uzun bir süre iç çekişmelerle istikrarsız bir dönem yaşamıştır. Muhammed Şibani Han’dan sonra Özbeklerin en büyük hükümdarı olarak kabul edilen II. Abdullah Han zamanında (1580-1598), hanlık eski gücüne kavuşmuştur. Fakat 1597 yılında Safevi Hükümdarı Şah Abbas’a yenilmesi Özbek Hanlığı’nın parçalanmasına yol açmıştır. Sonuçta Horasan Safevilere, Taşkent ve civarı Kırgızların eline geçti. Diğer bölgelerde müstakil hanlıklar kuruldu.

Diğer Özbek Hanlıkları

Hive Hanlığı (1512-1873)

Şibaniler soyundan İl-Bars, Safevileri Harezm’den atmayı başararak, merkez Ürgenç şehri olmak üzere Hive Hanlığı’nı kurdu (1512). Arab Muhammed Han zamanında (1603-1623), hanlık merkezi kuraklık sebebiyle Hive şehrine nakledilmiştir. Hanlık tarihinde iç çekişmeler, Özbek Hanlığı’na, Moğol Kalmuklar’a, Ruslar’a ve İran’a karşı mücadeleler eksik olmamıştır. XVI. yüzyılın sonlarına doğru, Amu-derya’nın yatağını değiştirerek, Hazar Denizi yerine Aral gölüne dökülmeye başlaması, bölgede ziraî ve iktisadî hayatın büyük ölçüde gerilemesine sebep olmuştur. Hanlık, Afşar hanedanından Nadir Şah’ın Hive’yi ele geçirmesinden sonra (1740) kısa bir süre İran’a bağlı kaldı. Deli Petro zamanından beri Orta Asya’da gözü olan Ruslar, hileyle önce Hazar kıyılarında üs oluşturup ardından 1873 yılında Hive’ye saldırdılar ve hanlığı ele geçirdiler. Son Hive hanının Kızılordu tarafından tahtan uzaklaştırılmasına kadar ( 1920) şeklen de olsa Hive Hanlığı varlığını korudu.

Hive Hanlarından Ebul Gazi Bahadır Han (1643-1665), “Şecere-i Terakime” ve “Şecere-i Türkî” adlı eserleriyle Türk tarih ve kültürüne büyük bir hizmette bulunmuştur.

Buhara Hanlığı (1599 -1868)

II. Abdullah Han’ın ölümü üzerine (1598) baş gösteren iç çekişmeler ve taht kavgaları Özbek Hanlığı’nın parçalanmasına yol açmıştı. Halkın ileri gelenlerinin teklifi ile Astrahanlı Yar Muhammed’in oğlu Baki Muhammed hanlığa getirildi (1599). Böylece Buhara’da Şibani hanedanı yerine Astrahanlılar hanedanı başlamış oluyordu. Bu hanedanın Canıbeg kolu, İran hükümdarı Nadir Şah’ın Buharayı işgaline kadar devam etmiştir. Diğer kolu olan Mangıt Hanedanı ise 1753 yılında Muhammed Rahim Atalık’ın hâkimiyeti ele geçirmesiyle başlayıp, 1920 yılına kadar devam eder. Buhara ve Hive Hanlıkları, İran ve Ruslara karşı Osmanlılar ile iyi ilişkiler kurmuşlardır. Ancak mesafenin uzaklığı daha sıkı ilişkileri engellemiştir. 1868 yılında Rus hâkimiyetine düşen hanlık, 1920 yılında yeni Sovyet yönetimi tarafından ortadan kaldırılmıştır.

Hokand Hanlığı (1710-1876)

Hive ve Buhara Hanlıkları arasındaki mücadelelerden bıkan bir kısım halkı etrafına toplayan Şibani soyundan gelen Şahruh, Fergana’da Hokand merkez olmak üzere bağımsız bir hanlık kurmayı başarmıştır (1710). Bir ara Çin hâkimiyetini tanımak zorunda kalan hanlık, 1876 yılında Ruslar tarafından ortadan kaldırılmıştır.

Yaka Türkmenleri (Türkmenistan)

Büyük Selçuklu Devleti’nin yıkılmasından sonra Türkmenlerin bir kısmı Mangışlak, Maveraünnehir ve Horasan’da kalmışlardı. Bu bölgede diğer Türk boyları ile birlikte önce Moğol, sonra da Timurlular hâkimiyetinde varlıklarını sürdürmüşlerdir. 17. yüzyılın ikinci yarısından sonra Moğol asıllı Kalmukların saldırılarına maruz kalmışlardır. Fakat bulundukları bölgelerin istilâlara karşı daha korunaklı olması ve boylar hâlinde yaşamaları sebebiyle Türkmenler genelde müstakil bir hayat sürmüşlerdi. Kopet Dağı çevresinde Yamud, İmralı gibi Türkmen boyları ile bir araya gelerek güçlendiler.

1835′den itibaren İran ve Hive Hanlığı baskısıyla Merv bölgesine doğru yayıldılar. Burada 1855′te Hive Hanlığı, 1860′ta da İranlıların saldırılarını savuşturarak istiklâllerini korudular. Bu dönemde başlarında Kuşid Han bulunuyordu . Türkistan’daki Rus ilerleyişi karşısında büyük direniş gösteren Türkmenler, 1879′da Göktepe’de Rusları ağır yenilgiye bir uğratmışlardır. Daha sonra aynı mevkide yapılan savaşlarda verilen kayıplar ve uğradıkları katliamlar sonucunda, Rus hâkimiyetini tanımak zorunda kalmışlardır(1884). Çarlık döneminde Türkmenler, ağır baskılara maruz kalmışlardır. Bu baskılar Sovyetler döneminde de devam etmiştir. Bu dönemde Hazar kıyılarından Merv bölgesine kadar uzanan bölgelerde Türkmenistan Sovyet Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti adıyla sözde bir devlet kurulmuştur. Bu devlet 1991 yılında bağımsızlığını ilân ederek Türkmenistan Cumhuriyeti adını almıştır.

Azerbaycan Hanlıkları

Azerbaycan yani “odlar/ateş ülkesi” tıpkı Anadolu gibi çok eski devirlerden itibaren Türk akınlarına sahne olmuş ancak, bölgenin Türkleşmesi XI. yüzyıldaki Selçuklu çağı Oğuz-Türkmen yerleşmeleriyle gerçekleşmiştir. Moğol ve Timur idaresinden sonra bölgede Karakoyunlu ve Akkoyunlular Türkmenleri hâkimiyet kurmuştur. Daha sonra kurulan Safevi Devleti ile Osmanlılar arasında sürekli mücadelelere sahne olan Azerbaycan, Nadir Şah’ın ölümünden sonra (1747) küçük hanlıklara bölünmüştür.

Bölgede güçlenen Ruslar, önce Azerbaycan’ın iç işlerine karışmaya başladılar. Ardından Kuzey Azerbaycan’da yarım asır kadar birbirleri ile mücadele eden hanlıkları, birebir hâkimiyetlerine almışlardır. Böylece 1805′de Gence Hanlığı ( Ziyadoğulları), 1806′da Kuba ve Bakü Hanlıkları, 1815′te Şeki Hanlığı (Hacı Çelebi oğulları) ve 1822′de Karabağ Hanlığı (Cevanşir Beyleri) Ruslar tarafından ele geçirildi. Rus ilerleyişi karşısında harekete geçen, İranlılar, Ruslara peşpeşe yenilerek Gülistan ve ardından 1828 Türkmençay Andlaşması’nı imzalamak zorunda kaldılar. Bu anlaşmayla Azerbaycan, Aras sınır olmak üzere kuzey ve güney diye fiilen bölünmüş, Kuzey Azerbaycan’ı Ruslar işgal ederken, Güney Azerbaycan İran’da kalmıştır. Güney Azerbaycan’da Hoy ve Tebriz’de Dünbüllü Hanları, Erdebil’de Şeyhler gibi hanlıklar hüküm sürdüler. Bolşevik İhtilâli üzerine Rus ordularının Kafkaslardan çekilmesi ardından Azerbaycan Türkleri, 28 Mayıs 1918′de bağımsızlıklarını ilân ettiler. Bunda Nuri Paşa komutasındaki bir Osmanlı birliğinin Bakü’ye girmesi etkili olmuştur.

İlk bağımsız Azerbaycan Cumhuriyeti, 27 Nisan 1920 yılındaki kanlı Kızıl Ordu işgaline kadar yaşamıştır. Sovyetler döneminde Azerbaycan Sovyet Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti kuruldu. 1991 yılında ise bu devlet Azerbaycan Cumhuriyeti olarak bağımsız bir Türk devleti hâline geldi.

Kazak Hanlığı ve Yüzler (Cüzler)

Ebulhayr Han idaresindeki Özbekler, Moğol kabilelerinin saldırısı ile büyük kayıplar vermişlerdi. Özbek uruğları arasında iç çekişmeler başlaması üzerine bunlardan bir kısmı hanlıktan ayrılarak kuzeye göç ettiler (1457). Daha başka Türk unsurların katılması ile güçlenen bu topluluklar, kendi başlarına buyruk hareket ettiklerinden dolayı Kazak diye bilineceklerdir. Kazaklar bundan sonra Cuci soyundan değişik hanlar idaresinde siyasî bir birlik hâlinde yaşamışlardır. Kasım Han XVI. yüzyılın başlarında Kazakların tamamını hâkimiyeti altında birleştirmeyi başarmıştır. 17. yüzyıl başlarında Tevkel Han zamanında güçlerini daha da artıran Kazaklar, Maveraünnehir’e başarılı bir sefer düzenlemişlerdir. Bu dönemde Kazaklar, üç orda hâlinde (cüz = yüz) teşkilâtlandırılmışlardır. Bunlar Büyük Orda (Ulu Cüz) doğu da, Küçük Orda (Kiçi-Cüz) batıda, Orta-Orda (Orta-Cüz) ise Taşkent merkez olmak üzere ortada bulunuyordu.

18. yüzyıldaki Kalmuk istilâsı, Özbeklerin kuzeyindeki Kazakları perişan etmiş ve cüzlerin birbirinden kopmasına yol açmıştır. Ruslar, Kalmuklar ile Kazakları birbirine kışkırtarak, onları iyice zayıflatmıştır. Kazak ordalarından Küçük Orda Hanı Ebulhayr’ın, yardım alma ümidiyle Ruslara taviz vermesi, Kazakların Rus hâkimiyetine düşmüşlerine sebep olmuştur (1731).

Geri kalan Kazaklar, Kırgızlar ile birlikte Buhara, Hive ve Hokand Hanlığı etrafında toplanarak Ruslar’la mücadele etmişlerdir. Rus zulmüne karşı Kazak Türkleri pek çok defa isyan etmişlerdir . Bunlardan 1783′te Sırım Batur önderliğinde Doğu Kazakistan ‘da baş gösteren ayaklanma 15 yıl sürmüştür. 19. yüzyılın ikinci yarısında Ruslar, Kazakların siyasî birliğine son vermişlerdir. Sovyetler döneminde de Kazaklara karşı baskılar ve asimilasyon devam etmiştir

Kırgızlar

840′ta Orhun-Yenisey’deki Uygurları yıkan Kırgızlar önce Karahıtay ve ardından da 13.yüzyılda Moğolların hâkimiyetinde yaşamışlardır. Timurlular dönemine ait haklarında bir bilgi bulunmamaktadır. 16 yüzyılda ise başlarında Cengiz soyundan Halil Sultan’ın bulunduğu bilinmektedir. Kırgızların kâvmî teşkilâtı, bugünkü şeklini 17. yüzyılda almıştır. Bu dönemde Kırgızlar, Sağ ve Sol olmak üzere iki kola ayrılmışlardı. Kırgızlar, Sayan bölgesinde oturdukları eski zamana ait uruğ (kabile) adlarını korumakla beraber diğer Türk toplulukları ile de kaynaşmışlardır. Meselâ bunlardan, devlet tecrübesi olmayan bazı Altay ve Yenisey Türkleri. Kalmuklar ile karışarak Oyrat adıyla anılmışlardır. Umumiyetle Kazak hanlarının hâkimiyetleri altında yaşayan Kırgızlar, onlarla birlikte, 17. yüzyılın sonlarında Moğol asıllı Kalmuklara karşı savaşmışlardır. Kalmuklar ile olan savaş, dünyanın en uzun lirik destanı olan Kırgızların millî destanları Manas’ın oluşmasını sağlamıştır..

Hokand Hanlığı’nın kuruluşunda Özbekler yanında Kırgız ve Kazaklar da yer almıştır (1710). Orta Asya’da Kalmuk istilâsı Kazak ve Kırgızları yıpratmış, Rusya ve Çin bundan faydalanarak onları boyunduruk altına almaya çalışmıştır. Sovyet döneminde Bişkek merkez olmak üzere Karakol bölgesi, Fergana ve Hokand’ın bazı bölgeleri ile Oş ve Pamir’in kuzeyini içine alacak şekilde Kırgızistan Sovyet Sosyalist Cumhuriyeti kurulmuştur. Bu devlet 1991 yılında diğer Türk Cumhuriyetleri ile birlikte bağımsızlığını ilân ederek Kırgızistan Cumhuriyeti hâlini almıştır.

Doğu Türkistan (Kaşgar Hanlığı)

Uygur ve Karahanlıların üzerinde kurulduğu Isık göl, İli Havzası ve Doğu Türkistan’ın bir bölümü Çağatay Hanlığı’nın çöküşünden sonra, Duğlat emirlerinin hâkimiyetine girmişti. Timur’dan sonra kendini toparlayan hanlığın idarecileri, putperest Kalmuk, Oyrat gibi kabilelere karşı cihat eden Müslüman kimselerdi. Bunlardan biri Veys Han’dır (1418-1428). Yerine geçen oğlu Esen-Buğa (1429 -1462), Timurlular ile mücadele etmiştir. 17 yüzyılda bu bölgelerde Hoca adı verilen yerli kişiler hâkim idi. Mançu Sülâlesi boyunca (1644-1911) Çin’e bağlanan bölge halkı daha sonra sık sık Çin’e karşı ayaklanmıştır. Bunlar’dan 1866 yılında başlayan, Yakub Bey (Atalık Gazi) tarafından idare edilen ayaklanma önemlidir. Türkistan’ın istiklâlini amaç edinen Atalık Gazi, kendini Kaşgar Hanı ilân ederek önemli başarılardan sonra müstâkil hale gelmiştir (1874). Fakat Çin,Rus ve İngiliz kıskacına giren Atalık Gazi, çareyi İstanbul’a elçiler göndererek (1870) Sultan Abdulaziz’e tâbi olmakta bulmuştur.. Osmanlılar karşılık olarak, o dönemde içinde bulundukları güç şartlardan dolayı silâh ve iktisadî öğretmenler göndermekten başka yardım yapamamışlardır. Atalık Gazi’nin ölümünden sonra ülkesi Çinliler tarafından tekrar işgal edilecektir (1877).

Safeviler (1502-1732 )

Devlet, adını Erdebilli (İran) Şeyh Safiyüddin (ölm. 1334)’ tarafından kurulmuş olan Safeviyye Tarikatı’ndan almıştır. Şah İsmail, Akkoyunluların içinde bulunduğu kargaşadan faydalanarak, gerek Akkoyunlu ve gerekse Karakoyunlulardan dağınık Türkmen zümrelerini, propaganda ettiği dinî heyecanın katkısı ile bir araya getirmeyi başarmıştır. Şah İsmail, çoğunluğu Anadolu’dan gitme Rumlu, Şamlu, Tekelü, Ustacalu, Dulkadirli, Afşar, Kaçar, Bayburtlu, Varsaklar gibi Türkmen aşiretlerinin de desteği ile Tebriz’ i zapt ederek Safevi Devleti’ni kurdu (1502).

Akkoyunlular’dan Azebaycan’ı alan Şah İsmail, 1509′da Bağdat’ı ele geçirdi. 1510 yılında Özbek Hanı Şibani’yi Merv yakınlarında ağır bir yenilgiye uğratarak sınırlarını Ceyhun nehrine kadar genişletti. Anadolu’da Şiî propagandasını gittikçe artırması, Osmanlı Hükümdarı Yavuz Sultan Selim’i harekete geçirdi. 1514 yılında Çaldıran’da yapılan savaşı kaybeden Şah İsmail, ölümüne kadar (1524) bir daha toparlanamadı. Yerine geçen Şah Tahmasb (1524 -1576), saltanatı süresince doğuda Özbekler, batıda da Osmanlılar ile mücadele etti. Onun ölümü ile bir süre devam eden karışıklıklardan sonra hükümdar olan I.Abbas dönemi (1587-1628) Safevilerin en parlak dönemidir. Özbeklere ve Osmanlılara karşı başarılar yanında pek çok alanda ilerlemeler kaydedilmiştir. Daha sonraki dönemler Osmanlılarla uzun süren mücadeleler, taht kavgaları ve iç çekişmelerle geçmiştir.

1732 yılında Afşarlar’dan olan Nadir Şah’ın iktidarı ele geçirmesiyle İran’da Safevi Hanedanı yıkılmış Afşar Hanedanı başlamıştır. Nadir Şah, doğuda Türkistan ve Hindistan’da büyük fetihler yapmıştır. 1779 yılında kurulan Kaçar Hanedanı ile İran’da Türk hâkimiyeti 1925 yılına kadar kesintisiz devam etmiştir.

Hindistan Türk Sultanlıkları-Babürlüler

Gur Devleti’nin Kuzey Hindistan’daki Valisi Kutbiddin Aybeg tarafından kurulmuştur (1206). Lahor ve Pencap’ı da ülkesine katan Aybeg’in 1210′da ölmesi üzerine, oğlu olmadığı için yerine damadı Şemsüddin İl-Tutmuş, bütün Kuzey Hindistan’ı elinde toplayarak Şemsiyye Hanedanı’nı kurdu (1211 -1266).

İl-Tutmuş zamanında devleti Delhi başkent olmak üzere, Pencap, Multan, Lahor yanında kuzeyde Gazne’ye kadar uzanan bölgeleri içine alıyordu. İl-Tutmuş, Harezmşahlara karşı ülkesini korumuş, Moğolların önünden kaçan kalabalık Türk kitlelerini kabul ederek Hindistan’ın kuzeyinde Türk kültürünün gelişmesini sağlamıştır . Halife tarafından Hindistan Sultanı olarak tanınan İl-Tutmuş, 1236 yılında ölmüştür.Daha sonra kurulan Balaban Hanedanı döneminde (1266-1290), Moğol saldırıları durdurulmuş , ülke imar edilmeye çalışılmıştır. Kalaç Türklerinin Başbuğu Celaleddin Firuz’un iktidarı ele geçirmesiyle başlayan Kalaç Hanedanı döneminde (1290-1320) Moğollar akınları püskürtülüp, yeni fetihler gerçekleştirilmiştir.

Kalaçlardan sonra Gıyaseddin Tuğluk tarafından kurulan Tuğluk Hanedanı bir asra yakın hâkimiyet sürmüştür (1321-1413). Türkistan’da Timur hâkimiyeti Hindistana Türk göçünün kesilmesine sebep olmuştu. Bundan dolayı devlet içerisinde yerli güçlerin ağırlığının artmaya başlaması üzerine Timur, Hindistan’a sefer yapmaya karar verdi.

Timur 1398 yılındaki bu seferiyle Hindistan’da zayıflayan İslâm’ı güçlendirmek istiyordu. Fakat Tuğluklulara ağır bir darbe indirmekle bağımsız devletçiklerin artmasına zemin hazırlamıştır. Nihayet Delhi’de idarenin Afganlıların (Seyyid Ailesi) eline geçmesi ile Tuğluk Hanedanı sona ermiştir (1414).

Hind-Türk İmparatorluğu olarak da bilinen Babürlüler Devleti’nin kurucusu, Timurlular’dan Fergana Beyi Ömer Şeyh Mirza’nın oğlu Zahüriddin Babür’dür. Renkli bir kişiliğe sahip olan Babür, Türkçe yazdığı Vekayi adlı hatıratında, kendinin ve askerlerinin Türk olması ile iftihar etmesine rağmen, kurduğu devleti batılı tarihçiler tarafından yanlış ve kasıtlı olarak Moğol devleti olarak adlandırılmaktadır. Babür, 1501 yılında Semerkant’ı ele geçirmesine rağmen, Özbekler karşısında tutunamayarak 1519 yılında Hindistan’a gelir. Delhi Sultanı Afganlı Lûdi hükümdarı ile uzun mücadelelerden sonra, Pencap’ın önemli şehirleri yanında Delhi ve Agra’yı da alarak devletini kurmuştur (1526). Afgan emirlerini, Hindu prenslerini ve yerel hâkimleri mağlûp eden Babür, Müslüman olmayanlara karşı başarılarından dolayı Gazi unvanını almıştır (1527). Bir yıl sonra hâkimiyetini Bengal’e kadar uzatan Babür, 1530 yılında başkent Agra’da ölmüştür. Babür’den sonra yerine geçen oğlu Hümayun , Hindistan’ da önemli fetihlerde bulunmasına rağmen kardeşleriyle giriştiği iktidar mücadelesini kaybederek Safevilere sığınmıştır (1540). Ancak bir müddet sonra Delhi’yi geri alarak tekrar hâkimiyet kurmayı başarır (1555).

Onun yerine geçen oğlu Ekber dönemi (1556-1605) devletin en parlak dönemidir. Ekber yaptığı fetihlerle Hindistan Yarımadası’nın büyük bir bölümünü hâkimiyeti altında birleştirdi. Aynı zamanda din, kültür, iktisat alanlarında büyük gelişmeler kaydedildi. Dış işlerine de önem verilerek, Safeviler, Özbekler, Osmanlılar ve Portekizliler ile münasebetler kurulmuştur. Oğlu Cihangir döneminde (1605-1627), İngilizler Hindistanda yer edinmeye başlamışlardır. Daha sonra gelen Şah Cihan dönemi (1628-1658) mimarî, sanat ve siyaset alanlarında parlak bir dönemdir. Osmanlılar ile kurulan yakın münasebetler sonucunda, dünyanın en güzel mimarî eserlerinden sayılan Tâc-Mahal Türbesi’nin inşasında Osmanlı mimarları da görev almıştır. Kardeşleri ile yaptığı mücadeleyi kazanarak tahta geçen Alemgir döneminde (1658-1707), başarılı bir siyasî dönem geçirilmiştir. Ancak ondan sonra Babürlülerin durumu bozulmuştur.

İç çekişmeler, taht kavgaları, ayaklanmalar birbirini izlemiştir. 1723 yılında devlet, Delhi ve Haydarabad olmak üzere ikiye ayrılmıştır. 1739 yılında İran hükümdarı Nadir Şah’ın Kuzey Hindistan ve Delhi’yi ele geçirmesinin ardından batılıların ülke üzerindeki baskıları artmaya başladı . 1766 yılında yapılan Allahabad Antlaşması ile idarî hâkimiyet İngilizlerin eline geçti. Nihayet, 1858 yılında Hindistan’ın İngiltere’ye bağlanmasının ardından 1877′de Kraliçe Victoria, resmen Hindistan İmparatoriçesi ilân edildi.

Every year, Transparency International makes a list of the most corrupt countries in the world. I searched through the blogs to find out more about each one, from a travelers’ perspective.

1. Somalia

Hardiek at the border of Somalia

“For those of you who don’t know (almost everybody, including me up until a few weeks ago) the once unified country of Somalia is now effectively divided into three, the rump Somalia surrounding dangerous Mogadishu, the country of Puntland from which all the ship piracy of recent fame takes place, and Somaliland, relatively peaceful and open for business, connected by land to the also relatively peaceful states of Djibouti and Ethiopia.” – Hardiek

2. Afghanistan

Samcato telling home base about an explosion in Afghanistan

“From ‘grease my palm’ to ‘oil-fill my bellybutton’: corruption has penetrated the political, economic, judicial and social systems so thoroughly that it has ceased to be a deviation from the norm and become the norm itself. Corruption had existed ever since the Taliban regime was toppled, but it has reached a historically record breaking level. Ordinary Afghans are well aware of this, the majority of the country is sorry, not because it existed but they are not in a position to benefit from bribery. Corruption has become so endemic that it is perceived as normal. Nothing is possible at the same time, everything is possible. When a job comes to a standstill it doesn’t mean there is a problem with the job, it is time to grease up some bellybuttons. If one is prepared to pay as much as needed then anything could be done. Shortcuts are introduced if one is willing to compromise. I could have thought of any word as synonyms for bribery but not compromise, Farsi and Pashto languages are rich with euphemisms for bribe. My favorite and all time fresh is ‘Shirini’, the sweetener. It is generally used when you got something done. In other words shirini is post bribery bribe. Don’t be surprised. At least I had something done, these days ordinary citizens pay bribes as much to be left alone as to get something done. They call it ‘Kharcha’, ‘paeesi chai’, ‘jawani’ and many more which are basically *bribe of survival*. Exactly this has changed everything; everyone attempts to be in a position to take a bribe as oppose to a sucker. Bribe takers are at the highest rank of the society where everybody inspires to be.” – Samcato

3. Myanmar

Markl's tour guide "Stella" spoke about the corruption in her country

“Stella was forthcoming about the current regime and it’s appalling corruption. They have moved the capital inland and have created an insane, artificial compound where the military and civil servants live in pampered luxury. They are building a zoo, of all things there, and transporting the animals from Yangon zoo to fill it. So the people in the capital get a few old camels and the rest get shipped 300 miles inland. Civil service pensions are no better, her mother receives 100 Kyat or $0,10 a day. Stella’s bitterness was mainly reserved for the treatment of the poor who seem to have been mainly abandoned by the political rulers. The stories of aid for rural people post Cyclone Nargis in 2009 were terrifying.” – Markl

4. Sudan

Bonthorn on the road in Sudan

“You have two choices when you come to a roadblock. You can play Mr./Mrs. Nice Guy/Gal and greet the officer as if you’ve known him your whole life, shake hands amicably and ask about his health, his family, their health, etc. Calling him ‘my friend’ and patting him on the back is also a good tactic (although never try this if you are female). After all the formalities are completed, he might just let you off the hook and wish you a “Good Journey”. The second option is to play dumb and pretend you have no idea what the officer is saying, although it’s blatantly obvious. Keep jabbering in English in a tone that is neither offensive nor accusing, and sooner or later, he will hopefully tire of you and your feigned stupidity and wave you on. So far, these are the two choices we’ve attempted, both at pretty successful rates. But the key is to pick one and stick to it BEFORE your car is stopped and you’re face to face with him and his gun.” – Bonthorn

5. Iraq

Rebecca.mcneal went through several checkpoints in Iraq

“After passing through numerous checkpoints, Iraqi, Pesmerga and Awakening Council fighter types we neared Mosul. Mosul was the only place that was worrisome. We passed by a truck bomb site that had killed 250 people in the recent past. We were not allowed to photograph checkpoints which were all manned with machine guns.” – Rebecca.mcneal

6. Chad

Kevandsian picked up some unexpected hitchhikers in Chad

“Crossing into Chad was surprisingly hassle free, the police in this country have a bad reputation for being corrupt and subtracting bribes and ‘tolls’ at every opportunity. We took a hitch hiker at the request of the police and also transported a soldier to the next village. We then gave another 5 police and military personnel lifts to neighboring towns 55 kms away,becoming the essential local transport as the first truck to pass through in 6-7 days. We decided this might help avoid searches and bribes at police stops and ease our journey. They did help at one small town where the police demanded a 16 dollar fee per person for registering and stamping our passports which was eventually avoided successfully.” – Kevandsian

7. Uzbekistan

Crowdywendy's tour guide in Uzbekistan, Behruz

Our first morning in Bukhara introduced us to the entrenched police and official corruption in Uzbekistan. It was our first introduction to “bakeesh” or bribes to officials. At the first Bukhara bank we were told that we were not allowed in. “Why not?” we asked. It was a very large bank and there were numerous tellers open everywhere. Well, we just couldn’t. The police were stationed at the entrance of the bank and would not let people in. Well, of course with a little bribe they would… But we resisted and moved on to yet another bank, and another. Later that evening while talking with other hotel guests, we were told that it is not uncommon for locals to have to try ten or so different banks before they would be allowed entry. The young local people were openly disgusted with the practice.

Similarly, bakeesh is a common practice with the police. There are frequent road blocks throughout Uzbekistan. While we had no problems thanks to Naim calling out “tourists!” at every point we were told over and over again by locals about the road police. Apparently being a police officer on the roads is a much sought after profession. Although they are dreadfully underpaid they certainly make up for it in bribes or bakeesh.” – Crowdywendy

8. Turkmenistan

Ricka leaving the "ferry from hell" in Turkmenistan

We loaded on-board after a trainload of freight was stowed and we were squeezed in between the carriages and the crew started to hassle us for “Security Fees”. We all had the sense to tell them to get lost! We were on at last! Another trip back into the customs hall to get our final clearance and it was back on board, passports handed over to a dodgy looking guy along with $90 and then a stagger up to the deck with our luggage. We wondered why there were loads of crewmembers smiling and laughing at us, little did we know!
The dodgy guy we gave our passports and cash to started to try to explain that if we wanted a cabin they were $100. We said no thanks, at that price we could manage the 12 hour crossing on the deck. I had a suspicion that things may not go to plan so I followed a crew down into the ship to have a look at a cabin. He showed me two of the filthyest, run-down excuses for cabins I had ever seen, with the “bathrooms” being even worse. I haggled with the guy anyway as I knew this was a “take it or leave it” situation and I settled on twenty bucks per cabin – I thought we would be needing them!” – Ricka

9. Iran

Jimsim at Persepolis in Shiraz, Iran

“While Sim took a few snaps of the mosque I chatted to a local soldier who was visiting the mosque. He was very young, and was very upbeat about Iran’s prospects for the future. While not stating a preference for either the hardline or more moderate of Iran’s leaders he seemed to believe that by keeping the right (positive) attitude the people of Iran would pull the country in the right direction. It was hard not to be caught up in his enthusiasm. He was also extremely helpful while we were there, happily answering the barrage of questions I had about Shiraz and it’s major attractions.” – Jimsim

10. Haiti

Mim301 on her first day volunteering in Haiti

“It is so hard to believe that so many people in Haiti live in poverty because of such a corrupt government, but that the beaches and mountains are so beautiful. I guess that this is just another one of life’s great mysteries.” – Mim301

Defections from regional distribution network may destroy Soviet-era effort to ensure equitable sharing of electricity.

By Gulnura Toralieva in London (IWPR RCA No. 596, 20-Nov-09)

Kazakstan’s decision to withdraw from the Central Asia-wide electricity grid and strong hints by Uzbekistan that it will follow suit have highlighted the fragility of energy arrangements in the region. Analysts are warning that political leaders urgently need an action plan to avoid a potential crisis.

The Soviet Union created a common power system for Uzbekistan, Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan which worked as long as they were part of the same state. But the system began fraying at the edges after 1991, as the newly independent countries began asserting competing interests.

Rogun, Tajikistan

Electricity generating capacity is distributed unevenly in Central Asia. Mountainous Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan have close to 80 per cent of the region’s water resources, allowing them to build and benefit from hydroelectric power stations, whereas Kazakstan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan have substantial oil and gas deposits but depend on their smaller neighbours for water.

Disputes arise whenever Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan store up water for the winter, the time they need it most for electricity production. The three lowland states want the water to flow downstream in spring and summer to provide irrigation during the growing season.

The Uzbeks export their natural gas to Kazakstan, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. They also supply electricity to Tajikistan, as well as providing a transit route for Kyrgyz and Turkmen electricity going to that country. But Tashkent periodically stops supplying gas in autumn and winter because of non-payment of bills, and earlier this year suspended the transit of Turkmen electricity to Tajikistan.

Following a meeting of the council which coordinates regional power supplies in mid-October, Kanat Bozumbayev, head of the Kazak electricity distributor KEGOC, said he had been told that Uzbekistan was leaving the network.

This was denied in a statement from the Uzbek state company Uzbekenergo. A spokesman said they merely wanted to alter the terms of transit arrangements.

“We would like to charge fees for electricity transits to Kyrgyzstan, which were previously regarded as transfers and were free of charge,” he said.

Although the problem was resolved – the Kyrgyz and Uzbeks reached a compromise on compensation – Uzbekenergo subsequently sent out further signals about withdrawing from the entire regional set-up.

In an article published in a state newspaper on November 5, Esso Sadulloev, who heads Uzbekenergo’s distribution office, said Uzbekistan planned to leave the Central Asia-wide grid, which he said was become increasingly unsustainable as certain member states were siphoning off electricity

“The unified electricity system is beginning to be obsolete, and is becoming the source of confrontation between participating states,” said Sadulloev.

His remarks appeared in the press two days after Kazakstan – Central Asia’s strongest economy and major oil producer – made the shock announcement that it too was withdrawing from the grid.

Deputy energy minister Duysenbay Turganov said KEGOC had taken the decision because the system was being disrupted by Tajikistan, which was taking more electricity than it was entitled to and failing to respond to instructions issued by the regional agency which manages the network. In February, Kazakstan temporarily withdrew from the Central Asian energy network because supplies to its southern regions were being disrupted by Tajikistan, which had begun taking electricity from the common grid in order to see its population through the winter months. The Tajiks began tapping the system, without consultation, after Uzbekistan halted transit supplies from Turkmenistan.

Toktogul Hydropower Station, Kyrgyzstan

Kazakstan’s decision had serious consequences for Kyrgyzstan, which was forced to impose strict limits on power use for consumers as the supply faltered.

Energy experts say the current disagreements arise from longer-running shortcomings in the way the network has functioned. Some say it is just a matter of time before the entire system disintegrates.

The Central Asian network links and regulates supplies from 80-plus power stations across the region, and the departure of even one member could prevent it functioning as a whole.

The resulting energy shortages could provoke instability and unrest which no government would want to see. Bazarbay Mambetov, an economist in Kyrgyzstan, says no one can afford to let this happen.

“The energy grid was created as a single mechanism and has been ensuring a reliable, uninterrupted power supply across the region,” he said. “Whether its participants like it or not, we are all now linked together by this system.”

But it is a network whose infrastructure has not been maintained since the Central Asian republics went their separate ways.

“It is old and it hasn’t been properly maintained, and was designed for a different environment,” said Cleo Paskal, a researcher on energy and environmental matters at the London-based think-tank Chatham House.

The system was set up based on calculations of rainfall and river volumes over previous decades, whereas environmental conditions in the region may now have changed to the extent that the design is redundant, she said.

NO ONE COMES OUT AS WINNER

Ularbek Mateyev, an energy expert in Kyrgyzstan, says, “The Soviet Union designed and built the most viable energy grid, so no country will benefit from leaving it.”

One of the consequences would be to increase the number of outages due to accidents, as there would be no central mechanism for mitigating the effects of power surges by switching supplies from one country to another.

If Uzbekistan, centrally located with the four other states around it, were to leave, everyone else’s national grid would be placed under severe strain.

Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan would be worst hit, despite existing hydroelectric schemes and plans to build more, analysts say.

“Tajikistan, the northern part in particular, will suffer most,” said Anvar Kamolidinov, a water management expert in Tajikistan. “Soghd province depends on Uzbek electricity coming from the common energy grid. Soghd’s power plant at Kairakkum power plant provides only 20 per cent of the energy consumed there. If Uzbekistan leaves, two million people in [Soghd] region will be left without power.”

Meanwhile, Kamolidinov said, central and southern Tajikistan will also lose out as they will no longer get power generated in Turkmenistan and transferred through Uzbekistan.

Kyrgyzstan, too, will suffer from the loss of electricity coming from or via Uzbekistan.

Kazakstan’s energy minister Sauat Mynbayev says his country would probably struggle through, by keeping a power station in the southern Jambyl region running continuously.

“It would be a huge load, but in terms of power supplies, it would help us – and also northern Kyrgyzstan – survive this period,” he said at a government meeting in late September.

Experts warn, however, that the larger states will face significant problems just as smaller Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan will. Neither Uzbekistan nor Kazakstan is currently in a position to assure a constant, uninterrupted flow of power.

Kamolidinov believes Kazakstan and Uzbekistan would have left the parallel system already if they were not dependent on their neighbours to fill in the gaps at certain time.

“Kazakstan might leave, but it will mean additional costs, including spending to build the infrastructure that will be required,” he said. “If Uzbekistan goes, it will have supply problems at peak periods in the morning and evening. Without the Nurek power plant… in Tajikistan, it will be technically problematic and costly for Uzbekistan to meet this peak consumption.

Mambetov say the Uzbeks also need to be able to draw on Kyrgyz electricity.

“Leaving the common grid will have negative consequences for Uzbekistan itself, first and foremost,” he said. “The Uzbek energy grid needs Kyrgyz power in order to regulate a constant current.”

POWER CLOSELY CONNECTED WITH REGIONAL POLITICS

Aside from periodic electricity shortages, the breakdown of regional energy arrangements will have wider implications, analysts say.

For one thing, neither the Tajiks nor the Kyrgyz will have much of an incentive to honour the already loose arrangements for opening up the dam sluices in spring to let water down the Amu Darya and Syr Darya, so that their neighbours have enough irrigation for their crops. Their natural tendency will be to hold as much back until late autumn, when they need to begin generating more power.

Within the Soviet Union, water and fuel were exchanged between republics as free, shared commodities. But in the post-1991 world, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan have become increasingly annoyed that their neighbours charge them for gas, oil and coal, yet their own natural resource – water – still has no monetary value placed on it.

Kamolidinov expressed the sense of dissatisfaction common in Tajikistan that “virtually for nothing”, the country stores up the waters of the Syr Darya river in its Kairakkum reservoir for release to Uzbekistan and southern Kazakstan when they need it.

“It’s going to be difficult to reach a [water] agreement on previous terms after the [Uzbek] power supply to Soghd region is interrupted in winter,” he added.

Many analysts see disputes over water and energy as inextricably linked with the political differences between the Central Asian states.

“The system inherited from the Soviet Union is in the process of being dismantled because Central Asian leaders are unable to reach agreement,” said Shairbek Juraev, an assistant professor of international and comparative politics at the American University in Central Asia, based in Kyrgyzstan.

Disagreements over water and energy have been festering for a long time, but Juraev says political confrontation has picked up pace recently.

“There is a risk that the situation may worsen, and that it will affect ordinary people most of all, with shortages of power and water and limits on freedom of movement,” he said. “It may lead to deteriorating conditions along borders, interethnic tensions, and a general worsening of the political situation in the region.”

Uzbekistan’s unhappiness with the current electricity arrangements form part of a wider pattern of disagreements with Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, over their plans to complete major new hydropower schemes.

The Roghun and Kambarata power plants would bring Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, respectively, a lot closer to self-sufficiency in energy. But Uzbekistan worries that the new dams would block off water from the Amu Darya and Syr Darya, and is insisting on an international study on the possible effects of the projects before they are completed. (For more on this, see Uzbek Overtures to Kazakstan on Water Dispute.)

Russia’s role in the region is an added complicating factor. There is talk of Moscow investing in both the Roghun and Kambarata schemes, and the Uzbeks are also concerned about plans for a new Russian military base in southern Kyrgyzstan, not far from their border. (See Kyrgyzstan: Russian Base Plan Alarms Tashkent on this issue.)

These interconnected issues make it difficult to attribute blame to any one state when disputes arise.

“All the countries in this region do not take one another’s interests into account, and are thus responsible for the current situation,” said Farhod Tolipov, a political analyst in Tashkent. “Since they gained independence, these countries have had many reciprocal grievances and disagreements.

“You cannot criticise Uzbekistan alone, for announcing its decision to leave the common grid even though it was aware this would have certain consequences for its neighbours. Its actions were prompted by the behaviour of Kyrgyzstan, which is planning to build the Kambarata plant and open a Russian military base in the south, although it knows the reaction this would bring from Uzbekistan.”

According to Paskal, worsening inter-state relationships are ultimately the legacy of Soviet-era arrangements for “enforced cooperation” which are no longer working.

In addition, she said, the once-united Central Asian states are starting to undergo “real cultural polarisation and social fragmentation, which make cooperation difficult. If social cohesion starts to break apart, all relations become difficult.”

BUILDING SEPARATE NETWORKS

When it comes to electricity, however, the Central Asian states are not standing still, but are already taking steps to forge new one-to-one arrangements with one another while strengthening their own national grids.

The Kazaks, Kyrgyz, Tajiks and Uzbeks are currently working towards bilateral and trilateral deals on infrastructure and supply, bypassing the regional level at which agreement seems so difficult.

As Nargiz Kassenova, professor of political science at the Kazakstan Institute of Management, Economics and Strategic Research, noted, “The countries in the region are making great efforts to ensure energy security by making their own grids more autonomous and developing new capacity.”

Mateev agrees that a movement towards fully independent power networks is under way, while pointing out that it goes against the international trend towards greater cooperation and efficiency through economies of scale.

“In the next three to four years, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan will find solutions and free themselves from energy dependence on Uzbekistan,” he predicted.

Kamolidinov agreed that the Tajiks and Kyrgyz were heading away from reliance on other Central Asian states.

“Energy independence has long been on the agenda of these two countries,” he said. “Uzbekistan leaving the grid and the problems this will create for them will only strengthen their desire for energy independence.”

Gulnura Toralieva is a freelance journalist from Kyrgyzstan.

Having successfully dodged all flying objects in my way I finally wheeled into Ashgabat in search of a place to stay the night. Since I don’t do guide books and the like, this is always a bit of a random process, but it makes the whole thing a lot more exciting.

View Larger Map

After chatting to a couple of people in the street (basic knowledge of Russian comes in very handy in most countries ending in -stan) I headed for what I was told to be the cheapest hotel in town. When I tried to check in, the lady at the reception quoted a much higher price than expected so I decided to give it a miss. Leaving the hotel and looking for alternatives I met Yasmurat who asked me what I am looking for. I told him that I am looking for a cheap hotel and he in turn asked why I am leaving the place, because I have already found the cheapest place in town. It turned out that the hotel is indeed very cheap if you are Turkmen, but foreigners obviously get to pay premium. This didn’t seem right to him, so he offered that we could share his room, at the cost of half the Turkmen price. He introduced me to the receptionist as his best friend, and after small bureaucratic struggle with about 6 forms to fill out we got our room.

In most countries you get a key to your room after check-in, but not in Turkmenistan . You get 3 receipts in return for the forms, which you take to the commanding babushka on your designated floor. Each floor has a desk and floor-lady opposite the elevator, who reigns supreme over her little kingdom and will grant you the key to your room if you haven’t lost the correct receipt in the elevator

Having dumped my luggage in the room, I told Yasmurat that I’ll head into town for some dinner, but he deemed that a very daft idea explaining that restaurants nearby are already very expensive, and as a foreigner matters might be even worse. Instead he ran down the hallway to our floor lady to order some food through her, and indeed some 15min later a pot of chai, two full meals and various other goodies magically found their way to our room for next to no money.

Whenever you travel to a country where Russians have been for any significant amount of time, you know that you’re in for a good time. Because although the Russians themselves might be gone, they usually leave a lot of good stuff behind, such as vodka, mini-skirts, fishnet tights and high heels This is also the case with Turkmenistan and Yasmurat insisted we need to drink to our friendship by ordering a bottle of vodka from the floor-babushka.

With the bottle done and many stories exchanged about our respective countries, he decided it was time to have some real fun, so he announced he’d go and get us two girls. Before I could object, he was already out the door to place his order for two hookers with the elderly lady commanding our floor.

My new friend Yasmurat

A couple of minutes later he returned looking a little disappointed and explained that the girls are too expensive – tonight they are $10 each, whereas normally they are only $4. But he had bought two bottles of vodka instead …

Not surprisingly I had a little trouble getting up the next day (as did Yasmurat), and to make matters worse we had lost both his car key, as well as the receipts required for checking out of the hotel (one for the babushka and one for the reception), but eventually we got everything together and I could go on a little sight-seeing tour of Ashgabat.

Pomp and circumstance?

Ashgabat is a very beautiful and bizarre sight at the same time. At times it looks like a French king has come back to life and had his dream carved from white marble.

It is probably called Turkmenibashi avenue

I think it was the cleanest, most pompous, polished and glamorous city I have been to in a very long time (ever?). This is even more bizarre when looking at the rest of the country, which apart from consisting of mainly desert, looks very much like rural areas in other Central Asian countries, i.e. rather poor and not overly developed.

Guarding the glamour

Of course you won’t get far without seeing plenty of golden statues of Turkmenistan’s old president aka excellency aka dictator aka many things. Somehow times seem not to have changed since the death of Turkmenibashi as not only are the statues and his book omnipresent, but he gets as much TV time as all of Iran’s mullahs together! Which makes one wonder who actually runs this country at the moment …

Speaking of the book – well read the Wikipedia article (Ruhnama). It’s so bizarre that it’s already funny again (and yes they do have a giant mechanical version of the book that opens at night and reads out the text, as well as being part of the official driving exam.

The great and late Turkmenibashi

But politics aside, it is one crazy city that is definitely worth a visit! 8 lane avenues, white marble all over, countless parks, fountains, monuments, golden statues … It almost makes you feel like Alice in Wonderland

Fountains and parks to keep you entertained for about a week

Since about 80% of Turkmenistan are covered by the Karakum Desert – by the way the hottest desert north of the Sahara – it wasn’t much of a surprise to see plenty of sand as soon as I left Ashgabat.

Not many people inhabit this desert and after a while it’s even a surprise to see the one or other camel in this otherwise very empty place. I was glad to have packed 12L of water just in case …

Desert life

Speaking of water, I am told that Turkmenistan is trying to construct the world’s largest artificial lake at the center of the desert. Don’t ask me why they want to do that, but it would go well with the craziness the capital displays.

Until then the Turkmeni desert has a tourist attraction of a special kind which I was determined to find. Maybe tourist attraction is the wrong word, as not many people come this way, but anyways. Pretty much in the very center of the desert are large deposits of natural gas which are mostly responsible for Turkmenistan’s relative wealth.

Another one bites the dust ...

I’m talking about the gas craters of Darvaza, one of which has continuously been on fire for some 40 years. There are many stories of how these came into existence, ranging from a meteor site to conspiracy theories, mining accidents and even the proverbial entrance to hell itself. Finding this place isn’t very easy however, as no road leads to it. I started following the tracks of gas mining exploration vehicles, but quickly had to discover that neither my tyres, nor my baggage weight, nor my riding skill was designed for ridiculously soft sand, as I had the first big off during this trip. It was the first time when more throttle didn’t help

Plenty more spills were to come, but at least soft sand has the upside that your landing is also (relatively) soft. The only problem is that my technique of lifting the bike relies on having friction on the ground which isn’t really the case in soft sand. Good thing I took 12L of water with me …

Finally I was sure to have found the place, just behind that dune in front of me. Sounds like recipe for disaster doesn’t it? So I took a run at the dune, but I wasn’t fast enough and ended up sinking the bike about half a meter deep in sand two-thirds the way up. I had been so concentrated on keeping the rubber side down as we say in motorcycle lingo that I almost buried the whole bike when it came to a stop before taking off the throttle. By then it was obviously too late for anything – the bike was buried deeply and wouldn’t move in any direction, neither forward nor backward nor sideways. More water wasted and a very hot 1.5 hours spent digging the bike out with my hands trying to get going again … It probably sounds unreal, but trust me, if you even only stop a heavy bike in soft sand, let alone bury it,
you’re in for a lot of fun. If you’re unlucky and stop in the wrong place, you’ll never get going again!

A perfectly round hole - in the desert

Eventually I got the bike moving again and also found the crater I was looking for (of course not behind the dune I had gotten stuck in). During the day it doesn’t look too impressive until you get closer revealing a bizarre sight: a nearly perfectly round hole of some 100m diameter in the middle of the desert. Straight walls down into the earth towards a crater full of burning gas.

The proverbial entrance to hell?

Come nightfall, the scene takes on epic dimensions – a bizarre sight, that would easily pass of as the door to hell in any horror movie, illuminating the night sky. If it weren’t that hot, one could stand at the edge of the crater for hours on end watching the flames dance and roar.

Working on my sun taint

After having pitched my tent next to the burning hole (at a safe distance ), I saw one of the most beautiful things in a long time: a lone bird, god knows what it was doing in the desert, approached the crater and slowly and graciously spiraled skyward in the hot fumes of the crater until it nearly disappeared out of sight into the stars, only to glide to the side, dive back down to the earth and re-enter the crater to dance again, and again, and again. I must have sat there for at least two hours watching the bird, the flames and the stars that shine oh so bright in the desert.

Desert camping - beautiful tranquility

Having dropped my tyre pressure to a ridiculous 1.3 bar front and rear, sand riding became a lot more enjoyable the next day. Life was almost perfect if it weren’t for the need of fuel and water.

Here’s a hint for anyone traveling to Iran or Turkmenistan : in each of the two countries half of the male population shares the same first name. So if you’re in need of something and you know the magic name, just yell it out as loud as you can, and help will be with you in no time. What are the names you ask? In Iran it obviously is the prophet Mohammed, whilst in Turkmenistan it is Murat. And according to my private survey, all men who are not called Murat, sport Murat somewhere in their name, e.g. Yasmurat, Dilmurat, Sapamurat …

After some yelling (in the right place) even a desert brings about a few (gas mining) inhabitants who can sell you some fuel and water if they aren’t too drunk. It took only half an hour, but finally I managed to both make a deal and get my sun-glasses back from the drunken madman who had stumbled off into the desert with them.

In search of fame and ... petrol

By Marat Gurt

ASHGABAT, Nov 19 (Reuters) – Turkmenistan is ready to export up to a third of natural gas required to fill the EU-backed Nabucco pipeline as soon as it comes on stream, a Turkmen government source told Reuters on Thursday.

Europe, seeking to ease its dependence on Russian gas, has long courted the gas-rich former Soviet republic as an alternative source of new energy.

Turkmenistan has long expressed willingness to supply Nabucco but has yet to take any real steps towards joining it.

“Obviously, we are ready to supply gas for Nabucco when it reaches us,” said a Turkmen government official who asked not to be named. “As early as next year, 10 bcm can be exported from the Turkmen Caspian shelf where Petronas is working.”

Malaysia’s state-owned Petronas [PETRA.UL] is developing a Turkmen offshore block and analysts say its installations are well positioned to connect to Azeri offshore rigs, allowing for the shortest connection to Nabucco.

But neither the EU nor Turkmenistan have taken any concrete steps to start building the link, although European energy officials say they would like to see Turkmen gas in Nabucco.

“We hope Turkmenistan will become one of the major suppliers of Nabucco,” Nabucco executive Johann Gallistl told an energy conference in the Turkmen capital Ashgabat on Thursday.

Russia used to be the main buyer of Turkmen gas, purchasing about 50 billion cubic metres a year, until April when supplies were halted due to a pricing dispute.

The row with Russia’s Gazprom (GAZP.MM: Quote, Profile, Research) has pushed Turkmenistan towards the diversification of exports, analysts say, giving Ashgabat freedom to pursue routes that Moscow has in the past objected to.

Speaking at the same conference on Wednesday, Richard Jones, the deputy executive director of the International Energy Agency, said its members, most of which are Western European nations, were keen to secure Turkmen supplies.

“Gas from the Caspian region in general and Turkmenistan in particular… will be very much needed in Europe,” Jones said.

New Rules in Turkmenistan: Girl with a bare navel is depravity, and cotton-gauze bandages on faces is alarmism-Vice Premier of Turkmenistan

Vice-Premier of Turkmenistan Maysa Yazmuhammedova earlier  introduced a uniform for female school teachers. Now, they and female students should visit classes wearing only national dress. Besides, minister personally approves dresses of artists participating in national celebrations. If anybody stands against the rules he would be deprived an opportunity to perform in the country. And their music recordings would be withdrawed from sales.

More over:  This Autumn rectors of higher education institutes received requirement to decline student to drive to institutions on their own automobiles. At the same time traffic police was ordered to catch young infringers and levy fine equivalent to US$ 50.

Local experts are in doubts concerning extraordinary authorities decisions. Struggle against A/H1N1 flu is conducted very originally. Health Minister of the Republic performed on TV with a statement that no cases of swine flu were registered in Turkmenistan. Hence, no need to wear respiratory masks.

Health Ministry officials visited outlets and educational institutions of Ashgabat. Ministry strongly demanded a removal of gauze bandages not to sow panic among the population….Infectious hospitals are filled. In some of them, doctors decline to receive new patients and recommend treatment at home. Rumors tell about dozens deaths of the flu. With all this, reliable information is closed for population.

State authorities prefer to talk only about prosperity in Turkmenistan.

Transparency International has just released its 2009 Corruption Perceptions Index (CPI), which ranks public sector corruption levels in 180 nations.

The least corrupt countries are New Zealand, Denmark, Singapore, Sweden and Switzerland, while Iran, Venezuela, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Chad, Iraq, Sudan, Myanmar, Afghanistan, and Somalia represented the most corrupt countries in the world.

So what is the effect of corruption on growth? In a new paper, Ratbek Dzhumashev (Monash University) examines this question.

His research “shows that direct and indirect growth effects of corruption can be statistically significant. Moreover, the empirical results confirm the existence of both negative and positive growth effect of corruption.”

On the negative end, corruption inhibits growth “by distorting the publicly provided productive externality and by deteriorating the overall business climate and perpetuating bad expectations about economic opportunities.”

On the positive end, he finds that “investment levels are higher with an increase in corruption levels, other things being equal.”

Dzhumashev concludes:

Nevertheless, the overall effect of corruption is negative, as the negative effects transmitted directly and through the public sector inefficiencies are greater than the positive effect through investment.

NorthStream, SouthStream, Nabucco. Apparenze da guerra fredda:  la nuova sfida energetica ha diversi giocatori e altrettanti campi di gioco.

In terminazione il gasdotto Northstream, probabilmente in funzione dal 2010, porterà sotto il mar Baltico il gas Russo sino in Germania. Senza intermediari. Da tempo la Germania rappresenta uno dei maggiori investitori in Russia. La stessa Porsche a suo tempo era stata tra i primi a capire questo nuovo mercato e a costruirci uno stabilimento produttivo per le sue carrera. Ora la Cancelliera Merkel porta a termine un importante progetto energetico a braccetto con l’ex Schröder, ora  a capo della società – russa al 51% – costruttrice del gasdotto.

Il percorso del gasdotto

Intanto sul mar Nero si pensa a posare i tubi a 2000m di profondità, con la sicurezza del gas Turkmeno.

Primo nato del gruppo di nuovi gasdotti russi sarà già in funzione dal nuovo anno mentre nell’altro mare “Russo” , – il mar Nero – Gazprom prepara il secondo, questa volta insieme a ENI.  Southstream questo il nome, partirà dalla Russia meridionale per arrivare in Bulgaria e da qui dividersi una volta giunto al confine opposto tra un percorso diretto in Puglia e uno attraverso Serbia e Ungheria, anche loro partner del progetto, fino al CEGH di Vienna per la sua distribuzione. Tutta la costruzione è in mano all’azienda Russa, l’ENI italiana è presente più per assicurarsi la terminazione del progetto che per altro.

Con la conclusione di questo secondo gasdotto la Russia potrebbe coronare il sogno di fornire il suo gas ai famelici clienti Europei senza però dover avere a che fare con il vecchio blocco, ormai isolato sotto diversi punti di vista. Prima l’ingresso nella NATO, poi schieratosi con decisione a favore di quello scudo spaziale anti-Iraniano ma percepito da tutti come anti-Russo, le repubbliche Baltiche, la Polonia, la Romania, l’Ucraina si vedono ora tagliate fuori anche dalla strada energetica. I due gasdotti russi ora arrivano direttamente dai propri clienti e uno solo dei due attraversare altri paesi, ma comunque “amici” di Mosca. Fino a poco tempo fa minacciato dai dubbi del persistere dell’indecisione Turkmena su a chi vendere il proprio gas, rappresentava sin dall’inizio il principale sfidante di Nabucco.

Questo era infatti il nome del progetto di Washington per inserisi in europa con una politica energetica aggressiva, fortemente voluto dalla Clinton. Purtroppo il progetto è rimasto tale. Un gasdotto non si costruisce con il fervore politico. Anzi li si costruisce in genere con gli anticipi dei clienti. Qui si sperava invece di coinvolgere grandi banche, ma ancora oggi non si può dire da dove Nabucco prenderà il gas da trasportare. Quello Azero non è molto ed è da lì che dovrebbe partire, ma non potrebbe nemmeno trasportare quello Iraniano perchè gli USA hanno già detto di no. Insomma è un disegno politico sulla carta che lì rimarrà a lungo temo. Ragioni unicamente politiche per la sua creazione sono seguite da ragioni politiche per la sua inoperatività, mentre ovviamente senza clienti sicuri non ci saranno nemmeno investitori e la Casa Bianca da sola di soldi non vuole metterne.

Ciò che viene messo in risalto da questa nuova organizzazione logistica europea e che spaventa decisamente qualcuno, è l’affidabilità di Mosca ora che da un certo punto di vista può chiudere i rubinetti ai propri singoli clienti senza doversi preoccupare degli altri dipendenti dallo stesso gasdotto. Da questo punto di vista una soluzione pratica verrebbe dai Rigassificatori già presenti anche in Italia, che possono funzionare da polizza d’assicurazione nel caso il Cremlino faccia il maleducato. La vera alternativa sarebbe Nabucco, ma a parità di condizioni, e qui le pari condizioni non ci sono.

It added that it “remains a committed long-term majority shareholder in Dragon Oil” notwithstanding the success or otherwise of its efforts to acquire the stake in Dragon not currently owned (48.5%). Documents relating to the Scheme of Arrangement will be issued to shareholders later this week.

Ich lehne das Angebot ab!

Recently a lot of people have been asking me whether I had any problems in Iran , because it is an Islamic state and such. In case you haven’t kept up with the blog, I didn’t have any problems at all (and certainly no Islam related ones) in neither Iran nor Pakistan . I have been to Iran longer than I had originally planned, but it’s still not long enough to have a true understanding of this way of life. From the outside it sure is very interesting to observe though (and I can certainly recommend traveling there), and if I have learned one thing, then it’s that Islam seems to be often misunderstood. Certainly, by the West, but also by those practicing it: remember driving inshallah in Tehran for instance? I am too lazy now to write a little novel about my understanding of religions and different people’s take on it, but if you’re interested, ask me next time you meet me.

Before leaving Tehran I had also changed my oil, because I figured if there is going to be any place in Iran where I can get high quality (fully synthetic) oil, then it must be the capital. You see, KTMs – especially princesses – are a little picky when it comes down to business. Whilst waiting for my parts and visa, I did have plenty of time to explore pretty much every shop in Tehran that might carry the oil I wanted. But as there aren’t many big bikes around, this turned out to be a tricky task, which eventually came to a happy end – partly due to my new translator who turned out to be the captain of Iran’s national line hockey squad!

A friendly home for a night or two

On the road towards Turkmenistan I had received yet another invitation for the night, but as I had met my potential host quite far from his home I somehow managed to lose him on the way there. I’m not sure how the Iranians do it, but like my flip-flop and pannier earlier, the guy somehow found me again in the middle of the city (when I had already given up all hopes and started looking for a hotel 3h later).

Tasty pistachios, right off the tree

My host Ismael turned out to be a major pistachio merchant so I got a special tour of his gardens full of tasty nuts. I absolutely love the guy and his hospitality, but just one word to all of you out there who might meet a world traveler: before departure we spend a lot of time, money and thought trying to reduce our luggage in both bulk and weight. Although tasty, expensive and special, a 5kg bag of pistachios does not constitute a good present for us motorcycle folks. So in case you ever meet a biker on the road and he fails miserably in rejecting your presents, then at least give him something that is easy to carry

Pistachio harvest

Mashad in the north-east of Iran was going to be my last stop before crossing over to Turkmenistan . I’m told it’s the religious center of Iran (besides Qom), with its holy shrine (of Imam Reza) being an important pilgrimage site. This called for a visit, but my first attempt at entering the shrine failed miserably due to a combination of all possible errors one can make: be white, admit to not being Muslim, and openly carry a camera with you (cameras have been banned since a terrorist attack involving one a couple of years back).

Thanks to the help of Hasan, my local friend and host in Mashad, the next attempt was a lot more successful and I even have (mobile phone) pictures to prove it Hasan also took me on a tour of local brick factories, one of which he runs together with his cousin. A brick factory might not sound too exciting at first, but it is a different story when the bricks are hand made from start to finish. This sounds like a lot of work, and by the looks of it it also is, while providing employment for many Afghans that have fled their country because of its current situation.

Bring on the hooki

With my batteries recharged by yet more tasty Iranian home cooked food and relaxing evenings in the Iranian equivalent of a bar sporting tea and water-pipes (hooki) instead of beer, I would’ve been well on my way if it weren’t for the Turkmen consulate. Every official place in Iran , including all embassies in Tehran, are closed on the Iranian weekend, Friday and Saturday. Being an experienced Iran traveler, I thus went to the consulate on Sunday, only to find out that the Turkmen consulate in Mashad is closed on Friday and Sunday, and Monday to Wednesday are reserved for commercial transportation companies only … In the end I did manage to get the visa on Monday – after filling in yet another form (the one I handed in in Tehran must have gotten lost) – once again through a small window in the wall. And by small I mean small, as in 20cm wide and 10cm tall.

What would the desert be without 100 camels?

With all this out of the way, finally entering Turkmenistan seemed like a breeze: it took only 2 hours, 7 offices, 13 forms, countless logbooks, 5 receipts, 65 $ road tax/insurance, a fee for vehicle disinfection that never happened, and countless guards persistently telling me that Turkmenistan “is a very good country”. For anyone wanting to travel this way: do come early, as it can take a while. And because the Turkemi side of the border closes at around 3:30 because they don’t have any electricity preventing them from filling out the forms …

Speaking of filling out forms, apparently this border crossing hasn’t seen too many Germans lately. I love it how they ask for your passport and upon receiving it ask you about your nationality. Then the conversion goes something like this: “Country?” – “Germany.” – “???” – “Ger-ma-ny.” – “???” – “Deutschland” – “?????!” – (thinking they might speak Farsi or French): “Almaan” – “Al ..?” – “Allemagne”. Signs of comprehension on the official’s face followed by a smile as he spells out my nationality in bold letters: A-L-B-A-N-I-A.

Next up was the customs search, where I already saw another hour going down the drain as Mr. Strict put on his gloves to ready himself to go through all my belongings. Except that a sand storm had begun to pick up, so he changed his mind and decided that he’d rather be inside than with my bike. Thus the search was performed orally: “Kalashnikov?” – “No.” – “Bomba?” – “No.” – “Narcotic?” – “No.” – “Ok, go!”. He ran back inside, and I was free to enjoy the little sand storm on my own.

Getting closer to Ashgabat (Turkmenistan’s capital) sand gave way to tumble weed which in turn gave way to flying tree branches, and I began to wonder whether coming to Turkmenistan had been a good idea after all …

Check back on the next edition to find out