Koch is suing Greenberg in the US District Court over US$320,000 he spent on 24 bottles of wine in 2005, which has been said to be fake.  

Koch purchased what were advertised as wines from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions, some dating to Napoleonic times and the Belle Epoque.  He claimed that Eric Greenberg, the founder and chairman emeritus of Scient Corp., who’d consigned the wines, defrauded him.

Koch’s lawyer, told the court that is was heartbreaking for a collector to find out that wine was not authentic, because “it was about more than just a bottle and a flavour.”

This isn’t Bill Koch’s first case screaming fraud.  Koch’s previous claims have included that he was sold counterfeit wine, marked “Th.J.,” that had purportedly belonged to Thomas Jefferson. Koch won a default judgment against German wine dealer Hardy Rodenstock, who’d consigned the purported Jefferson bottles to Christie’s for sale.

November 6 – Amsterdam – Fine Wine & Vintage Port

November 7 – New York – Impressionists & Modern Art

November 8 – London – Fine & Rare Burgundy Wines

November 12 – Geneva – Important Watches

November 13 – London – Lalique

November 14 – Geneva – Fine Wine

November 16 – New York – Fine & Rare Wines

November 16 – New York – Magnificent Cellar of Charlie Trotter

November 20 – Online – Signature Cellars: Online

November 23 – Hong Kong – Fine Wines

November 24 – Hong Kong – Fine & Rare Wines: Burgundy

November 25 – Hong Kong – Fine & Rare Wines

November 28 – Hong Kong – Important Watches

Sotheby’s

November 2 – New York – Prints

November 5 – New York – Impressionism & Modern Art

November 7 – New York – Impressionism & Modern Art (Day Sale)

November 13 – Geneva – Important Watches

November 13 – New York – Contemporary Art (Evening)

November 14 – London – Finest & Rarest Wines

November 14 – New York – Contemporary Art (Day Sale)

November 17 – New York – Legendary Bordeaux & Burgundy 1816 – 2005

November 27 – Milan – Modern & Contemporary Art

Phillips de Pury

November 1 – New York - Evening Auction

November 15 – New York – Contemporary

November 16 – New York – Contemporary

Bonham’s

November 5 – New York – Impressionism & Modern Art

November 12 – New York – Contemporary 

November 20 – London – Watches

November 21 – Hong Kong - Fine Wine, Cognac & Single Malt Whisky

November 23 – Hong Kong – Modern Watches

Acker, Merrell & Condit

November 9-10 – Hong Kong – Fine Wine

November 14 – New York – Fine Wine

Zachy’s 

November

October 5 – London – 50 Years of James Bond

October 12 – New York – Fine and Rare Wines

October 18 – London – Fine and Rare Wines

October 25 – London – Impressionist/Modern

Sotheby’s

October 3 – New York – Photographs

October 4 – New York – Impressionist/Modern

October 5 – Hong Kong – Great American Wine Collector

October 5 – Hong Kong – Connoisseur Collection

October 6 – Hong Kong – Fine & Rare Wine

October 8 – Hong Kong – Rare Watches

October 24 – London – Wine

October 27 – New York – Wines

Acker Merrall & Condit 

October 20 – New York – Wines 

Zachy’s 

October 13 – Hong Kong – Wines

Bonham’s

October 10 – Edinburgh – Whiskey

October 26 – London – Fine & Rare Wines

October 28 – New York – Whiskey

Need a buyer/seller agent?  Andolini Capital

The Wine Spectator noted that Hong Kong emerged as the largest Wine Auction market in 2010, but has been on the decline since late 2011.  This has been mainly do to the Chinese over paying for Bordeaux and Burgundy and price falling sharply because of it.

Top 3 Auction House Totals in the U.S. (in millions)
Acker Merrall & Condit $12.1
Zachys $9.9
Hart Davis Hart $7.9

Top 3 Auction House Totals in Hong Kong (in millions)
Acker Merrall & Condit $9.1
Christie’s $8.9
Zachys $7.4

I have still made it to my fair share of more ambitious restaurants, just not at such a frenzied pace as in the previous two years. I have also been eating much more near where we now live (in Connecticut) rather than Manhattan – not because it’s trendy to ‘eat local’, but because it’s easier and there is actually an abundant variety of excellent eateries nearby, particularly in ethnically diverse towns and cities such as Port Chester, NY and Stamford, CT. Sometimes, you find the greatest things when you don’t expect to, and these are the best discoveries.

While I still plan to keep writing on this site going forward, beginning in 2012, my words and images will also be appearing in some other places, including the ever-entertaining Arbuturian and the newly launched Bespoke Blog…so look out for my features there. My first piece for The Arbuturian, which recounts a fantastic meal at a vegan Japanese restaurant in New York, can be found here.

But on to the task at hand…

It is always hard to siphon down a year of eating and drinking, but I’ve tried my best to include only those dishes and drinks that were truly memorable. Hopefully I’ve gotten the balance right and you enjoy seeing both some familiar and not so familiar names in my rambling list.

Given what I mentioned above, this year I am also including a segment on the food I have enjoyed eating most at home, which I hope will highlight some of the amazing farmers, growers and restaurants/food retailers we have in the Tri-State area, particularly in Connecticut.

Although much of this year’s list comes from the US (as I haven’t been traveling as much), there a number of entries from the short but hugely enjoyable trip I made to Copenhagen, a longer trip to Italy (including Rome, Umbria and Tuscany) and a brief sojourn in my former home of 10 years, London. I also had some great food during my first trip to Brazil, but somehow none of it made it onto the list.

Sadly, I didn’t make good on last year’s resolution of cooking more often (well, really learning how to cook in the first place). I have my wife to blame (or thank?) for that as she is so good there often seems little point in me trying. But I’m going to make it my resolution again. Maybe I will try my hand at baking since she doesn’t know how to do that. I haven’t checked to see if I have cold hands, but hopefully I won’t get cold feet.

In any case, enjoy the list and, as always, please send your suggestions of new and exciting places I should try.

Here’s to a wonderful 2012 ahead, and thanks for continuing to support me through another great year.

PS – while I haven’t been blogging as much, I am quite active on twitter and, more recently, on instagram (username: ‘laissezfare’), so follow my tweets and picture posts on those channels as well if you so desire. Also, many of the photos below come from my instagram or un-filtered iPhone images, so apologies in advance for the inconsistency in quality.

~ AT HOME ~

For a number of months now, each morning at Chez Laissez begins with a glass of what I have affectionately coined the ‘green sludge’. It is not as bad as it sounds, and is actually quite tasty once you get used to it. It all started when we purchased a great blender earlier in the autumn. The concoction consists of a variety of organic leaves, usually including a mixture of kale, chard and arugula (rocket), spirulina and macca powder and goji berries, with a touch of banana or apple to make it more palatable. The natural and slowly released energy boost is amazing, and it helps to ensure we get a good dose of enzymes to tackle the day. I find I actually don’t need any coffee in the morning now, but since I like it so much I still often have an espresso or macchiato – not a Caramel Macchiato, which ‘doesn’t exist’ – once I get to Manhattan.

Morning Sludge

We also recently purchased a very good dehydrator for our home kitchen, and my wife has been making all kinds of healthy and delicious snacks for us over the last few months, which you may have seen me tweeting about. We use only raw ingredients for these snacks (i.e. not heated/pasteurized) so they retain their full nutritive properties. My favorites are the kale chips, for which she makes a variety of seasonings. More recently, she is also making cookies from raw cacao, coconut oil, dates and nuts (cashews and almonds), which are also excellent.

Kale Chips

We don’t eat a whole lot of meat at home, but when we do, we like to know where it comes from and how it was raised. This means we source most of it from local farmers markets.

Some of our favorite steak & eggs

Our favorite beef comes from Four Mile River Farm, which practices excellent animal husbandry and sells dry-aged beef of very high quality at very reasonable prices. We have also bought grass-fed steaks from New York Beef, which is also good.

Four Mile River Farm Ribeye Steak with Brussels Sprouts

We love the eggs we get from Fishkill Farms at one of our local farmers markets. They come from pasture-raised, heritage breed hens that move in mobile coops and their eggs are downright delicious.

Fishkill Farm Eggs & Tarry Market Bread (Tuscan Farm Loaf)

We now buy these by the boatload, and often have them for breakfast with some excellent bread from Tarry Market, which we rate as the best bakery in our area. I have heard that they supply much of the bread to Batali/Bastianich restaurants in the NY area, but have not had this corroborated…they do have a huge facility that takes up a large block in Port Chester. Fishkill Farms also sells excellent organic fruit and vegetables (although they’re not officially accredited), which we buy weekly.

Lastly, one of the best things I ate this year came courtesy of my mother-in-law who just returned to Normandy after a two-week long stay at our home. It was a traditional Norman dish of Poule au Blanc and it was simply out of this world. We bought two old hens from Fishkill Farms and she did the rest. The iPhone picture doesn’t do it justice, but the cream sauce was almost literally to die for. We had this for her 77^th birthday.

My Mother-in-Law's Poule au Blanc

Also excellent was a house-made foie gras terrine (mi-cuit) from Restaurant Jean-Louis in Greenwich. We had this with some toasted brioche and a sweet and sour onion spread, which worked great together. The next night, she used the fat from the foie gras to sauté some fingerling potatoes – that was also something to remember.

Foie Gras Terrine from Restaurant Jean-Louis (Greenwich, CT) Paired with 2006 Château Suduiraut

~ ODDS & SODS ~ 

There is a Mexican restaurant named Bartaco near our house that makes you feel like you are on vacation when you dine there during the warmer months of the year. It is on the water and is designed like a beach resort of sorts. Their food is generally good, but there is one dish we always order…strangely enough, it’s a variation on corn-on-the-cob (pardon the iPhone pic). It’s about as good a version as I’ve had.

Grilled Corn with Lime, Cayenne & Cotija Cheese from Bartaco (Port Chester, NY)

Another nearby restaurant we discovered was Chili Chicken in Stamford, CT, which serves Indian Chinese food. Their fried okra dish was addictive as crack (not that I would know) and is the best thing we’ve had from there so far.

Crispy Fried Okra with Onions and Green Peppers from Chili Chicken (Stamford, CT)

I was lucky enough to enjoy some very good pizzas this year, the best of which were in – go figure – Italy. A casual family restaurant in Rome’s Monteverde neighborhood served an excellent Neapolitan style margherita. All the photos from that meal can be viewed here.

Margherita Classica from La Gatta Mangiona (Rome)

At our relatively new family hideaway in Umbria, a local pizzaiolo constructed an excellent meal of at least a dozen different types of pizzas for about 30 people. The standout of the evening for me was the speck pizza, and I also enjoyed the non-traditional dessert pizza with Nutella and peaches. Below, you can see the first pizza he made: just dough sprinkled with sea salt and a touch of olive oil. All of the photos from this meal can be found here.

Pizza Night in Umbria

While on the same trip to Italy, we had an unbelievable lunch at Arnaldo Caprai winery cooked up by Salvatore Denaro, who has to be one of the most jovial chef/hosts I’ve encountered. There were two courses that particularly stood out as being perfect versions of their respective dishes, the caponata and panzanella. There are tons of photos from this lunch, including some funny ones from the kitchen, all of which can be seen on my flickr set.

Panzanella from Salvatore Denaro at Arnaldo Caprai Winery

Caponata from Salvatore Denaro at Arnaldo Caprai Winery

Back in the US, I also had some great sandwich-type foods this year. My new favorite sandwich shop in New York is the Cambodian sandwich specialist Num Pang, whose five-spice glazed pork belly is definitely a standard bearer.

Five-Spice Glazed Pork Belly Sandwich from Num Pang (New York)

Ever late to the proverbial party, I finally had the chance to sample the famous Black Label burger at Minetta Tavern in the latter part of the year. I really can’t think of how it can be improved; it is a thoroughly conceived and rigorously executed beefy affair. Sure it’s $26 but that’s all you need to eat for the meal and it’s both perfect and perfectly satisfying.

Black Label Burger from Minetta Tavern (New York)

My favorite burger closer to home comes from the excellent Burgers, Shakes & Fries. Their meat is a bespoke blend from Master Purveyors in the Bronx (who supply a lot of the famous steakhouses in the Tri-State area) and is really good. The twist here is that the sandwiches are served on ‘Texas Toast’, which in this case is simply toasted bread that has been slathered with butter on both sides. After trying the various iterations, I like the single patty burger with a slice of cheese. The meat does all of the talking and doesn’t need much support. They also serve the best onion rings I have ever tasted.

Double Cheeseburger & Onion Rings from Burgers, Shakes & Fries (Greenwich, CT)

On a healthier note, my favorite food truck for lunch in the City is a rather new Colombian operation that serves arepas. All of their ingredients are organic and meticulously sourced. In addition to the traditional corn base, they also offer more innovative versions, for example one made with quinoa flour, and others with brown rice flour and flax seeds or sesame seeds. My favorite is the quinoa, and I either get it with just hogao and all the fixings, or occasionally a vegan ‘chorizo’ sausage (which is made from soy and comprises over 20 ingredients, including red wine for the color). They are small but if you eat it slowly it fills you up for the rest of the afternoon. Delicious.

Quinoa Arepa from Palenque Food Truck (New York)

 ~ BENIGN BEGINNINGS ~

One of the best appetizers I had this year was seemingly one of the simplest, a burrata from Roscioli in Rome, which is definitely the best version of the creamy cheese dish I’ve had so far. All the photos from that excellent meal are here.

Burrata from Roscioli (Rome)

Along the same lines, the ceviche di spigola (marinated raw sea bass with oil, lemon, onions, chili and fresh coriander) I had at another Rome restaurant – Osteria La Gensola – was vibrant, bright and fresh, the perfect beginning to our meal.

Ceviche di Spigola from Osteria La Gensola (Rome)

Another wonderful light starter came from the most unlikely of places. Spuntino, Russell Norman’s third of five London restaurants in roughly two years, is known more for some of its delicious yet artery-clogging dishes. But the thing I most enjoyed during my meal there was a salad. Possibly this was because it came after a few of those very rich dishes and my stomach was craving greens, but in any case, it was excellent and definitely worth ordering if/when on the menu. My review of the meal can be found here.

Duck Ham Salad with Pecorino & Mint from Spuntino (London)

Another stand-out appetizer also hailed from Italy, although this time from a restaurant in the picturesque hilltop-perched Umbrian village of Montone. During a great meal at La Locanda del Capitano, chef Polito served his own variation on the cappuccino, which included a hill cheese fondue, a quail’s egg and fresh truffle ‘snow’. Need I say more?

‘My Cappuccino’ from La Locanda del Capitano (Montone, Italy)

While in London during the spring, I had the pleasure of sampling James Knappett’s food at the two Michelin starred Marcus Wareing (he now cooks with Brett Graham at The Ledbury), and one dish still sticks out in my mind, both for its beautiful plating and its unique flavors. You can read more about the excellent cold, raw scallop dish I enjoyed here; it really was as pretty as a picture.

Raw Orkney Scallops, Tapioca, Australian Finger Lime, Wild Strawberries, Lemon Vinegar & Thai Basil from Marcus Wareing (London)

The last of the lighter plates to make the list was also a cold plate, served in Copenhagen during a very cold January evening spent within the warm environs of noma. You can read a full description in my review of the meal, but the main ingredient was sea urchins – it was a breathtaking dish. There were many other things from noma that could have easily made this list (including a plate with pine branches and one centered around an intense Gotland black truffle sauce), but this was my personal favorite.

Sea Urchins and Frozen Milk, Cucumber & Dill from noma (Copenhagen)

~ MAGNFICENT MIDDLES ~ 

It is often difficult for the ‘main’ dish, or dishes, in a multi-course menu to stand out as the most interesting of the meal, even if they are delicious in their own right. The preceding procession of nibbles and smaller plates are designed to whet your appetite, inducing you to salivate and preparing you for what is still to come. By the time you arrive at a meat or fish course, the portion is usually more substantial and can often become too rich and/or monotonous to finish. Happily, I had a number of ‘middle’ dishes that rebelled against the odds and still live on in my memory.

One of the best ‘middle’ dishes I had in 2011 came from a meal at Eleven Madison Park that started out great but didn’t finish as strongly (the meal was toward the midpoint of the year, before chef Humm and the General Manager bought the business from then-owner Danny Meyer). It was one of the best-cooked lobsters I’ve had and was completely delectable.

Lobster Poached with Carrots & Vadouvan Granola from Eleven Madison Park (New York)

We had the pleasure of dining at the chef’s table at Heston Blumenthal’s first London opening in the spring, and many of the dishes were excellent. The one savory course that stood out, however, was the pigeon. My wife doesn’t ever like pigeon, and she was licking the plate with this one. Other excellent dishes that almost made it onto the list were the Black Foot Pork Chop and now ubiquitous Meat Fruit. You can read more about the pigeon dish, and the meal as a whole here.

Spiced Pigeon (c. 1780) with Ale & Artichokes from Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (London)

One of the most interesting and delicious main courses I had was actually a vegetarian dish from the Japanese restaurant Kajitsu in the East Village of Manhattan. It was painstakingly plated and stood out for the variety of textures, temperatures and flavors. A full account of the meal can be found here.

Autumn Vegetable 'Fukiyose', Cedar Grilled Yomogi Nama-Fu and Portabella Mushrooms & Komatsuna Oshitashi from Kajitsu (New York)

A diametrically opposed dish, in both spirit and substance, was equally as tasty. This came from the excellent Commerce Restaurant, which is ironically in the West Village, the opposite side as Kajitsu. While it doesn’t often get the press it probably should, Harold Moore is a terrific chef that is both generous to his patrons (he is there night in, night out and actually cares that all of his customers are well taken care of), humble in his manners and genuine in his spirit. His food strives to make you comfortable and satisfied, and it doesn’t pull any punches. Some of the best things I sampled there were his carnivorous sharing plates. My favorite was actually the lamb (and pardon the instagram image below), although the chicken is more fabled, as you can see from this Ozersky TV video. One of his classic American desserts is also included in my favorite desserts of the year…read on.

Rack of Lamb on the ‘Things to Share’ Section of the Menu from Commerce Restaurant (New York)

La Locanda del Capitano makes its second entry with a superb main course of cinghiale (wild boar) that was hunted, killed, prepared and served by the head chef. It was the best example I’ve ever had of wild boar meat, and is worth seeking out if you’re ever in the area.

Montonese Wild Boar Braised with Scallions & Celery Herb Seasoning from La Locanda del Capitano (Montone, Italy)

Last of the top main courses of 2011 was a pleasant surprise from a casual little Ethiopian restaurant in Westchester County, NY called Lalibela, a name shared by many Ethiopian restaurants (indeed, our favorite one in London had the same name). We had a combination platter for two, which was great for lunch.

‘Taste of Lalibela’: Siga Wat, Yebag Wat, Doro Wat, Misir Wat, Shiro Wat & Gomen from Lalibela (Mt. Kisco, NY)

~ SWEET SURRENDERS ~

Although 2011 was a much healthier year food-wise than 2010, I managed to sample a great number of sweet treats which were totally worth the sugar and calories. In addition to some of the staple sweets we stock at home, such as Mast Brothers dark chocolate bars, we found some other great desserts in our local area. These included the best cannoli I have found in the Tri-State area (courtesy of a rapid-fire tour of Stamford, CT with perennially well-informed Jim Leff), wonderful pistachio and dark chocolate gelato from Daniella’s Gelateria in Greenwich, and also Daniella’s hot chocolate.

Cannolo from Sal’s Pastry Shop (Stamford, CT)

Gelato & Hot Chocolate from Daniella's Gelateria (Greenwich, CT)

Some other treats I enjoyed outside of restaurants were from some of the better-known bakeries, including Bouchon Bakery’s classic lemon tart and Ladurée’s traditional macarons, of which the rose flavor consistently one of the best – but all are exceptional. I am glad they finally have a shop in New York, although they may still be working out some kinks, as there seem to be variations in quality from many reports.

Lemon Tart from Bouchon Bakery (New York)

Assortment of Macarons from Ladurée (New York)

A number of great sweets were consumed on our trip to Italy, but the following were my favorite. Unfortunately, I cannot for the life of me find the name of the bakery in Rome from which I had the amazing sfogliatelle. But I have a picture of the lovely man who made them!

Sfogliatelle from Rome…and the baker who made it

Also excellent was a simple dessert of two components from Trattoria da Teo, which serves rustic dishes in Rome’s Trastevere neighborhood. It was so good we ordered a second.

Mascarpone & Wild Strawberries from Trattoria da Teo (Rome)

My other favorite restaurant dessert from Italy also contained cream and berries and came from L’Asino d’Oro, home of one of Rome’s best-value lunch menus. You can read more about the meal here. I didn’t expect much from the description of the odd-sounding ‘Strawberry Tiramisu’, but the proof in this case really was in the pudding.

Strawberry Tiramisu from L’Asino d’Oro (Rome)

One of the most satisfying desserts of the year came from Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, its second appearance in this year’s round-up. It was essentially a brioche and butter pudding with brandy, with the addition of one of the most meticulously roasted pineapples you are ever likely to find. You can read a full description in my review of this meal here.

Tipsy Cake (c. 1810) with Spit Roast Pineapple from Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (London)

My favorite apple pie comes from Mrs. London’s in Saratoga Springs, NY. Wendy (aka ‘Mrs. London’) makes it at the bakery, but also serves it at her son Max’s restaurant next door. The ice cream is homemade too. Both places are worth visiting if you’re even in Saratoga for the horse racing or other reasons. The bakery also serves a very worthy version of Kouign Amann.

Apple Pie & Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream from Max London’s (Saratoga Springs, NY)

One the most surprisingly good sweet things I ate this year came from Commerce, which served the rack of lamb I mentioned above. I have never had a coconut cake I particularly liked, but the name of the dish speaks for itself, and is not incorrect, at least in my own experience. Its moniker is simply ‘The Best Coconut Cake’. While it carries a price tag of $10, it is money well spent. Sadly, I don’t have a great picture, but you can get the general idea from the image below. It has the perfect consistency and is not overly sweet, the main problem that affects most examples of this cake.

‘The Best Coconut Cake’ from Commerce Restaurant (New York)

As a testament to the fact that great things often come when you least expect them, one of the best key lime pies I’ve had comes from a small steakhouse chain whose Boca Raton, Florida branch I visited twice in the last 12 months or so (the other location is in Boston). It was just as good on both occasions, the secret being that they (of course) use real Key limes and also make a delectable graham cracker-esque crunchy crust. If you ever go, their bone-in filet mignon is pretty darn good too.

House-made Key Lime Pie from Abe & Louie’s (Boca Raton, FL)

As it is getting cold now, I am reminded of a part-frozen dessert I had while in Copenhagen. It was my final course at Kødbyens Fiskebar, which consisted of sea-buckthorn as both a grainté and gel, with a base of crème made from tonka nut and white chocolate. The tart and creamy contrast was perfectly judged. You can read the full description here.

Sea-buckthorn as Grainté and Gel, Crème with Tonka Nut & White Chocolate from Kødbyens Fiskebar (Copenhagen)

~ FERMENTED FINDS ~ 

Most of the wines listed below are not particularly pricey (though all is relative), so I particularly enjoyed discovering them as I can afford to buy them again in the future. There were a few precious – in both sense of the word – bottles that I enjoyed on special occasions, but these were mostly the exception this year.

Now that I have a proper wine storage solution, thanks to the impressive Liebherr unit that arrived on my birthday courtesy of my generous parents, I have been buying a lot more wine as of late. I have also found that I’ve been buying a lot of my wine online, through excellent new sites such as Lot18 (click here to join, it’s free). There are also a number of excellent wine merchants I frequent, including Zachys, Sherry-Lehmann, Chelsea Wine Vault, Tarry Wine Merchants (which adjoins to the aforementioned Tarry Market) and the extremely competitively (online) priced Rye Brook Wines. Frankly Wines is also a great little shop, but I rarely get downtown to visit. 

Sparkling 

• N.V. Claude Genet Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
• N.V. François Chidaine Montlouis-Sur-Loire
• N.V. Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Les Vignes de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs
• N.V. Jaillance Crémant de Bordeaux Cuvée de l’Abbaye
• N.V. Pierre Gimmonet & Fils Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru
• N.V. Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Grand Gru Oger
• N.V. Scharffenberger Brut
• 1997 Salon ‘Le Mesnil’ Brut Blanc de Blancs
• 1998 Henriot Brut Millésimé
• 2002 Moet & Chandon Dom Pérignon Brut

White

• 2007 Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay Cuvée Alexandre
• 2007 Domaine du Chalet Pouilly-Fuissé
• 2008 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis
• 2008 Domaine Huët Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg
• 2008 Nicolas Joly Savennières Le Clos Sacré
• 2008 Wind Gap Chardonnay
• 2009 Arwen, Lilleø Vin
• 2009 Casa Marin Sauvignon Blanc Laurel Vineyard
• 2009 Evening Land Vineyards Pouilly-Fuissé
• 2009 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium Lazio IGT
• 2009 Paul Hobbs CrossBarn Chardonnay
• 2010 Arnaldo Caprai Grecante
• 2010 Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc

Red

• 2003 A&G Fantino Barolo ‘Vigna dei Dardi’
• 2003 Paolo Bea Montefalco Sagrantino Passito
• 2005 Baigorri Rioja Crianza
• 2005 Bodegas y Vinedos Finca Anzil Toro Vendimia Seleccionada
• 2006 Yering Station Shiraz-Viognier
• 2007 Ampelos Pinot Noir Lambda
• 2007 Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Médoc Réserve Spéciale
• 2007 Bodegas Felix Callejo Ribera del Duero Crianza
• 2007 Clos Du Val Pinot Noir Reserve Carneros
• 2007 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva
• 2007 Seventy Five Wine Company The Sum
• 2009 Domaine de Villeneuve Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Vieilles Vignes’
• 2009 Venta Morales Tempranillo
• 2010 The Pinot Project

Sweet 

• N.V. Josette et Jean-Noel Chaland Chardonnay Vendange Botrytisée
• 2006 Château Suduiraut
• 2006 Disznókö Tokaji Aszu, 4 Puttonyos
• 2009 Domtalhof Rheingessen Riesling Auslese
• 2009 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Late Harvest
• 2009 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

Beer

• I am not the world’s biggest lover of, or expert on, beer (by a long shot) but my friend recently introduced me to the Three Philosophers, which is quite nice.

I hope you enjoyed my review of the best bites & sips from 2011 and look forward to keeping you up to date on my findings in 2012 and beyond!

Personally I’ve never been quite certain about Sauzet, because I have usually found the wines to display their oak a touch too obviously, most often showing some overt vanillin when young (although new oak is usually less than a third in the premier crus). But when the 2005 vintage was released, I decided this would be a good moment to get a mixed case and see how the various wines age, because Etienne Sauzet is often considered one of Burgundy’s top domains. Most of its holdings are in Puligny Montrachet, and there are several premier crus, as well as tiny amounts of two grand crus. The wines I tasted this week were the village Puligny Montrachet, and two of the better known premier crus, Les Perrières and Les Folatières.

The first surprise was that the village Puligny and the Perrières were barely distinguishable: I had expected a significant step up in quality. The reason was that both are losing their fruits fast, and a strong phenolic emphasis overpowered the palate. The Folatières was similar, giving the impression that it’s just a few months behind on the same path of development.

I would not have been surprised if these wines had showed this sort of development after say ten or so years, but even allowing for the fact that white Burgundy needs to be drunk much earlier than used to be the case (but mostly because of premature oxidation), I was startled to find the wines apparently over the hill after only six years. I don’t think condition is a problem, because the wines were all bought on release from a reputable merchant (Zachys in New York, imported via Briacliff Manor according to the back label).

I am not certain, but I don’t think this is the phenomenon the Germans call atypical aging, (untypischen Alterungsnote in the original German), although that also is marked by the accumulation of phenolic aromas. (Atypical aging is caused by accumulation of naphthalene-like aromas caused by 2-aminoacetophenone, a compound related to methyl anthranilate which causes the foxy aroma in grapes of non-vinifera varieties. These Sauzet wines simply tasted as though they’d had too much skin contact, or otherwise picked up phenolic compounds.) Anyway, if it is atypical aging, which usually more affects aromatic varieties (and the cause of which, so far as I know, is still unknown) this should become obvious with further development over the next few months.

Certainly there was at least no sign of premature oxidation. First noticed with the 1996 vintage, this has become the major problem with white Burgundy. Its cause is also unknown, and it seems to strike completely unpredictably. It doesn’t usually show as soon as the current vintage, but earlier this year at a dinner at Le Bernardin, Aldo, the sommelier showed me two examples of a Puligny and a premier cru of the 2006 vintage that had just arrived, straight from a famous domain, and which were already completely shot with strong madeirized aromas and flavors.

What with one thing and another, white Burgundy seems to be becoming a chancy proposition, so to check that my palate hasn’t simply gone out of whack I tried another premier cru from another producer from the 2005 vintage. This was Ramonet’s Boudriotte from Chassagne Montrachet. As Ramonet is considered one of the very best producers in Chassagne Montrachet (many would say the best), this seemed a fair comparison.

Ramonet’s wine was up to his usual standard, and I enjoyed the Boudriotte, but it left me not completely convinced that the phenolic problem was confined to Sauzet. Ramonet’s wine had to my mind a better balance of fruit to phenolics, but it seemed to be going in the same direction as Sauzet, with those phenolic overtones just a bit too present for comfort. At the time of the 2005 and 2006 vintages, some critics felt that the 2005s were too opulent, too lacking in acidity, and that the fresher 2006s would last better. This may be correct, but I don’t think lower acidity as such is responsible for this rather rapid aging of Sauzet and (perhaps) of Ramonet. As the Ramonet left me undecided as to whether this is a general problem with the vintage, I turned to another wine, what they might call a “banker” on the M.W. tasting exam, meaning that it is absolutely reliable. This was the (white) Clos des Mouches, the best premier cru in Beaune, from Drouhin.

Ah ha: here I felt I was tasting a mature Burgundy at its peak. Yes, that’s a small cause for concern, since a decade or so ago, I might have felt that a top premier cru should not peak until a decade of age, but here was lovely wine without any problems. I do feel that it somewhat makes the case for the advantages of 2006 over 2005, since it shows more opulence and less potential longevity than usual. It’s more peaches and cream than citrus, you can still see some signs of its maturation in oak, but the phenolics are pushed well into the background by the richness of the fruits.

So where do I stand on 2005 white Burgundy? Very cautious. The best premier crus probably should be drunk in the next three or four years: perhaps the grand crus will last longer. But I am afraid that some wines are aging so rapidly that already they are past their peak. Caught between rapid aging and premature oxidation, it seems increasingly risky to cellar white Burgundy. Perhaps the 2006 vintage will fare better than 2005. Watch this space.

Tasting Notes

Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet, 2005

Already the fruit is drying out and the wine is going over the hill. The lightening of the fruits is leaving slightly herbaceous aromas and flavors to dominate nose and palate. The original vanillin is turning vegetal. The wine becomes somewhat phenolic on the finish.  Overall impression is that the wine is just too tired and old, very disappointing. 86 Drink now.

Les Perrières, Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet, 2005

Only a very faint whiff of Sauzet’s usual vanillin, more of a faintly herbaceous touch on the nose. There’s a touch of vanillin on the palate, which tends to citrus fruits including grapefruit, and quite an acid finish. The acidity pushes the sensation of herbaceousness, which strengthens in the glass. The general impression is that already the fruit is drying out. This is a most disappointing result for what should be a top vintage.  86 Drink now.

Les Folatières, Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet, 2005

A slightly citric nose has hints of phenolics. On the palate the citrus fruits are tinged with stone fruits, with a slightly acrid touch of phenolic grapefruit and some remnants of the original vanillin. Overall quite a decent balance, but the general spectrum of aromas and flavors seems to be following the village Puligny and the Perrières down the same route to strengthening phenolics at the expense of fruit. I think this will last a few months longer, but I’m afraid that a year from now it will have the same problems. 87 Drink soon.

La Boudriotte, Chassagne Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet, 2005

Citrus nose initially shows some faint phenolic overtones, which then give over to a nutty impression. The citrus fruits on the palate are supported by good acidity, with a touch of heat on the finish, and those phenolic notes coming back. Nicely integrated flavors right across the palate, but I’m worried that the phenolic notes will intensify as the fruits lighten up, and this will limit longevity. Drink in next year or so. 88 Drink-2013.

Clos des Mouches, Beaune, Joseph Drouhin, 2005

Nice golden hue shows a little age. Interesting nose has some herbal notes of anise, with the underlying fruits more peaches than citrus, A faintly exotic note of stewed peaches or apricots comes through on the palate, where the ripeness of the fruits is evident, and supporting acidity is adequate. There’s a lovely finish of peaches and cream, but just a touch of phenolics coming through the back palate, but this is subdued by the bursting ripeness of the fruits. With time in the glass, the phenolics disappear to leave a lingering impression of peaches and cream on the palate, in the opulent style of the vintage. This has reached a lovely stage of maturity and now may well be at its peak, but it should hold and develop well for a few years yet. 91 Drink-2015.

So what to do after a fun, rather reactive and productive day? Go hang out with some wine of course!

Considering only wine lovers can appreciate pictures of inanimate objects, I thought I’d post a couple from today’s visit to Zachys. On a fun side note, I’ve been ordering wine from Zachys for 5 years; however it took me 4 months of living 5 miles away to figure out it was just down the road.

Latour & Me...just like Marley & Me but way better

Of all the wines in their rare wine room, I wanted to pick up the biggest and best. There was a salmanazar (9L) of Charles Ellner Cuvee du Reserve, but that only costs around $1k. Then I saw the one I wanted, but the gentleman working suggested otherwise. “Why don’t you take a picture with that one instead?”  Inside I thought, “because I want to hold the bottle of the ’05 Latour that costs $25,000, not the ’06 Latour that only costs $7,600.” But I relented. Simply put, you know you’re cool when a $7,600 bottle of Latour actually devalues you.

Down payment on a house or bottle of wine?

The next picture is for all of you that have wondered what a 9 liter bottle of Cheval Blanc looks like. Well now you know. And for all of you doing the math at home, that’s roughly 61 glasses of wine, pretty flippin’ sweet! Notice the pricetag yet? No need to adjust your TV folks, that’s $15,000. Maybe when I get my bonus I can put it on lay-away.

Next time I’m there I’ll get my damn picture taken with the ’05 Latour, oh yes I will!

Let’s Celebrate New York this Saturday at Zachys!

Saturday, May 14 | 12-4pm | In-Store

This month marks the Grand Event in Tarrytown, NY for the Hudson Valley Art & Wine Festival.

The celebration “pairs” professional Hudson Valley artists with select Hudson Valley wineries and vineyards. The jury-selected group of artists will be creating, in their own chosen medium, a wine- or vineyard-inspired artwork by partnering with a specific Hudson Valley winery. The event will be a partnership between Hudson Valley Wine Magazine, and Lyndhurst, a National Historic Trust, to benefit educational and cultural programs. Lyndhurst, overlooking the Hudson River in Tarrytown, is a premier example of American Romanticism that was born in the Hudson Valley, and that also found its expression in the Hudson River School of painting, America’s first recognized art movement.

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“The goal of this very timely, year-long celebration is to enhance the Hudson Valley’s recognition as a destination for art, wine and cultural experiences,” says Linda Pierro, managing editor for Hudson Valley Wine Magazine. “We will be promoting Hudson Valley artists, wineries, galleries, and historic sites to a wine- and art-loving audience through this year-long ‘Celebration.’”

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To celebrate this festival, Zachys is bringing the Hudson’s best to you! We recognize how important our local wineries are to the community and will have 3 local wineries IN STORE one week early for you to taste…

We will be pouring the wines from the Brotherhood Winery in Washingtonville, NY with special guest Cesar Baeza, winemaster. They have been making wine for 170 years and is the oldest register winery in operation today! We will also show wines from the new Robibero Family Vineyard from New Paltz who have been living and transforming their wines since 2003. The third local estate will be Whitecliff Vineyards in Gardiner New York who according to the Wall Street Journal, “is turning out serious wines made with grapes from its own vineyards and others around the state” 8/10 WSJ. Taste New York…Support our local wineries!

The Grand WINNER or The Grand LOSER...only time will tell. All we know is that he loves wine (and coke).

In honor of the great thespian turned whack-job (or genius, I’m not sure) Charlie Sheen, I thought it only appropriate to apply his most sacred mantra “WINNING” to the wine world’s great developments, obviously to be coupled with “LOSING” when so appropriate.

This also gives me the opportunity to express my opinions on a few recent topics that have been on my mind, yet I haven’t had the time to write about. Enjoy the musings…anything I missed?

WINNING

BBC America – Thank you for pairing up Top Gear’s James May and Wine Legend Oz Clarke for a new Americanized adaptation to Britain’s Oz and James’ Drink to Britain. James May’s Big Adventure is a show that combines fine wine (and the refinement of Clarke) with cool cars (and crazy antics and quirkiness that May provides). The show airs Monday, March 23^rd at 10:20 immediately following the season finale of Top Gear. We all win!

Maynard James Keenan – The TOOL front man turned winemaker has taken the wine world by storm when he captured our attention with the 2009 documentary “Blood into Wine” which chronicles winemaking in Northern Arizona. Recently, the film won “Best Feature Documentary” at the 2011 Trail Dance Film Fest. For those of you who are asking TOOL?! Yes, the same TOOL that brought you such songs as Stinkfist and Prison Sex. See mom, there is hope for your son!

Harvey Steiman – The Wine Spectator contributor has really picked up his game. I applaud him as he has recently been focusing attention towards the epidemic of ignorance that surrounds restaurant wine lists.

Mike D – The legendary Beastie Boy and brother of Screech has decided to build on his passion for wine by blogging about it for James Suckling’s new website (the actual site requires a paid subscription). A great period for musicians and wine, keep it coming!

William Koch & Zachys – A little over a month ago, the little kid with the ball decided to play. Bill Koch took the high road and accepted Zachys offer for reparations and, it’s assumed, to update the disclaimer in their auction catalogues moving forward. Better not sell him counterfeit wines again!

LOSING

QVC & Sunbeam – On the recall of 159,000 Skybar Air Pump Wine Openers after they have caused numerous injuries. Maybe you should create and offer products that actually work and don’t break bottles when opening them. The goal is to open the bottle, not the person holding it!

People who purchased the above mentioned opener – Is a corkscrew really that difficult? Plus, who buys wine accessories from QVC anyway?!

Wine Spectator – We get it, you like Justin Smith and Saxum. We don’t blame you; however two features within only a few months seem a bit much. Realizing that there are other amazing wine producers outside of those that have appreciated out of the reach of the masses is important. Let’s find the next Saxum, how about that?! I have a few recommendations.

‘Nuff Said!

Suddenly occurred to us, that from Boston to London, New York to København (Copenhagen), Lidingö (Sweden) to perhaps Saint-Emilion for En Primeur, (and possible in Germany with Aux Fins Gourmets with Matthias Hilse)  there seem to be a lot of opportunities to taste the wines ahead. The first occurring in an hour’s time or so, and the others at various dates stretching over the next six months. We’ll update this page with further details for some, and do feel free to leave word or two if you have tasted the wines.

Zachys Tasting

Picture from Zachys Feature on the La Peira Wines

First the most immediate. Now! The renowned Zachys in New York (who kindly posted the feature on the wines of La Peira above) have an tasting this weekend featuring a variety of interesting wines and vintages.  For those curious about the wines of La Peira it would seem a good pre-Christmas chance to taste alongside a selection of wonderful producers!

Complimentary Tasting at Zachys—
Treasures from Across the Globe

The Zachys team is opening up the Cellar this weekend and we are pulling out as many Grand Cru Caliber wines as we can for this last big weekend before Christmas! There will be Champagne, White and Red Burgundy, Bordeaux, Cult Cabs and old treats from the cellar including the 100 point Cristal 2002!

A Sneak Peek at Tasting Lineup
• Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 (100W&S)
• Bonnes Mares (Berthau) 2008 (91-93BH)
• La Peira en Damaisela 2007 (95-96WA)
• Camartina (Querciabella) 2006 (95WA)
• Pichon-Lalande 2006 (95WA)
• Pichon-Lalande 2007 (88-91WS)
• Barolo (Pio Cesare) 2006
• Barbaresco Rabaja (Bruno Rocca) 2007 (91IWC)
• Colgin IX Estate Syrah (95WA)

Berry Bros. & Rudd Tutored Tasting 8th June 2011

We are delighted to have the chance to show some recent (and older) vintages of the domaine, with Simon Field MW at hand, in the magnificent cellars beneath Berry Bros’ 310-year-old shop in London’s St James. The Pickering Cellars lie beneath Pickering Place (London’s smallest public square and once a notorious venue for duels) and adjacent to the Napoleon Cellar, which is named after Napoleon III, who plotted his return to France here whilst in exile in England between 1838 and 1848.

La Pèira: BBR Tutored Tasting 
with Simon Field MW & Winemaker Jérémie Depierre

Text below and more from the BBR site:

Jéremie Depierre, Winemaker at La Pèira

“When journalist Andrew Jefford wrote to us to recommend a nice wine that he had been sent, subsequently written up as the best Languedoc he had ever tasted, we were delighted to begin our relationship with La Pèira, now recognised as one of the very top wines in France. Co-owners Rob Dougan and Karine Ahton identified the Terrasses de Larzac as the best terroir in the South of France, and – working with gifted oenologist Claude Gros and Bordelais winemaker Jéremie Depierre – set about to craft its premier wine.

The nature and extent of their success will be evidenced at this ground-breaking tasting. Winemaker Jéremie has as his cohort the maverick Rob Dougan, whose varied achievements, before he caught the wine bug, include composing the theme to the film The Matrix. They are both highly entertaining characters, allied by a love of their product, and this promises to be a most enjoyable and instructive tasting.”

The following wines will be tasted:

European Cellars / Eric Solomon Selection 
Tasting March 7th 2011 Boston

Eric Solomon Selections / European Cellars 
Annual Portfolio March 7, 2011

Attendees of past Eric Solomon Portfolio tastings in New York (with IPO), Boston, Dallas, or San Francisco (a very pretty if uneventful video of the tasting at the Fairmont hotel ballroom here) know what an extraordinary selection of wines and producers this involves.

Superb producers such as Clos Saint Jean, la Janasse, Marcoux, Saint Jean Du Barroux, Domaine Lafage, Domaine de L’Hortus, Coume Del Mas, Aalto, Clos d’Agon, Tomas Cusine, Clos Erasmus, Mas Doix, Nit de Nin, Gramona, Mas Alta, Rafael Palacios, Hacienda Monasterio and that’s just scratching the surface.

Those who know these tastings, the European Cellars’ team, Eric Solomon’s portfolio, or his 
Hospice du Rhone presentations (a great one here and here too) know the melange of perfectionism, fun, and a sense of style that characterise everything this company does.
Eric Solomon has worked with our domaine from the time when the prospect of successfully sharing our work with others seemed highly remote. Is there another group that works with a wider diversity of Producers working with Rhone varieties over France and Spain? Even looking at the “appellations” the company works with in Spain is enough to make a reader slightly dizzy:

Sanlucar de Barrameda, Calatayud, Bierzo, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Costers del Segre, Empordá, Montsant, Penedés,  Priorat, Cava, Monterrey, Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribera Sacra, Valdeorras, Almansa, La Mancha, Méntrida, Vinos de Madrid, Jumilla, Yecla, Navarra, Rioja, Alicante,Valencia!

There’s some lack of clarity whether the early European Cellars self-mocking motto was, “Unknown and Unsold” (effectively exciting and worth purchasing?) or “Unfiltered, Unfined, Unsold” (perhaps it was both) but it’s hard to name another company that combines such success with this kind of broad ranging ambition.

Fields, Morris & Verdin 14th June 2011 (Trade Only)

The trade-only tasting for Fields, Morris & Verdin takes place in June. One could simply focus on the company’s Burgundy or French portfolio. But the range of producers from around the world is quite something. Here’s just a few: Vega Sicilia, Yarra Yering, Shadowfax, Giaconda, Frog’s Leap, Bonny Doon, Ridge Vineyards,  Domaine Drouhin Oregon,  Au Bon Climat, Qupé Winery, Tablas Creek, Montford, Piétri-Géraud, Montford, Méo-Camuzet, Mas Conscience…

Just wanted to get this post up in a timely fashion and will update with details of the 2960 Vin and Bristly Wines and Saint-Emilion / En Primeur tastings over the next few hours

]]> http://worcestersauce.wordpress.com/2010/02/18/the-pebbles-project-fine-wine-dinner-programme-2010/ Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:51:52 +0000 Stuart George http://worcestersauce.wordpress.com/2010/02/18/the-pebbles-project-fine-wine-dinner-programme-2010/ Brighton resident and fine wine consultant David Wainwright has established a series of producer-focussed fine wine dinners at the two-Michelin star Ledbury restaurant in London’s Notting Hill.

All proceeds will go to the Pebbles Project (www.pebblesproject.co.za) in South Africa. The Pebble Project’s purpose is to enrich the lives of disadvantaged children who have special educational needs, especially those whose lives are affected by alcohol, by providing support and training to local wine farm and township créches and establishing after-school provision for older children living in the Winelands.

The five-course dinner will be held on 27 April at 7pm and will be hosted by Jamie Araujo, who will present 11 wines from Araujo Eisele Vineyard:

1996 Eisele Vineyard Syrah

1999 Eisele Vineyard Syrah

1992 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1993 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1994 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1995 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1996 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1997 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1998 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

1999 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

2000 Eisele Vineyard Cabernet

Tickets cost £325, with only 12 places available. For all enquiries and bookings, please contact David Wainwright at dw@vincapital.co.uk.

The flight was entertaining. Departure was late because of a Spanish-speaking prima donna. The entire plane could overhear her complaints. She was booked into first class but had turned up late and her seat had been given to somebody else. So she had to sit next to me in cattle class. “This is so unfair,” she moaned. Life is unfair, isn’t it? Especially when you don’t get that extra six inches of legroom you paid for. She decided that being sat next to me for six hours was intolerable, so off she went.

“Close the door behind you, please.”

She cut me a filthy look.

There was also a group of Hasidic Jews, who made such a fuss of finding their seats. It must have taken them 20 minutes to be happy with their seating arrangements. They made a bit of a mess with their nibbles and biscuits. A (white American, presumably well-off) lady seated close to me said, “My, they’re a bunch of slobs.” It would not be the last time I heard such casual racism on this trip.

I was met at Newark by the delightful Bernardette Lyon, a friend of a friend who I’d met only twice before. For my first night in NYC she had very generously invited me to stay at her mother’s house in Brooklyn. We drove into Manhattan, me grinning like Joe Buck in Midnight Cowboy as he looks around NYC for the first time.

SDG and Bernardette in Brooklyn

Bernardette took me on a tour of Brooklyn, including Saturday Night Fever territory in Bay Ridge. I think we went through Bensonhurst, too, where that brilliant car chase was filmed for The French Connection. The obligatory pizza was followed by dinner at Tatiana in Brighton Beach, or “Little Odessa.” There are lots of Russians in London (in Belgravia, anyway) but I’m sure Bernardette and me were the only non-reds in the hood.

We walked along the boardwalk towards Coney Island, sat underneath the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge (Saturday Night Fever again), walked down Cranberry Street where Moonstruck was filmed, and then refuelled at Junior’s, a Brooklyn joint famous for its cheesecakes. A slice about the size of the Isle of Wight (or Staten Island) was put in front of me. Bernardette and the waiter were amused by my horror at the amount of calories on my plate.

The final pit-stop was at Farrell’s, just up the road from Bernardette’s place and where a scene in As Good As It Gets was made (so many films today!).  Bernardette had never been in there, which seemed surprising at the time but once inside I could see why… It is a very macho, Irish/cops place, though the regulars turned out to be friendly enough and we stayed there until 2am. Bernardette has vowed not to go again unless it’s with me, bless her.

An American Football match was on the TV in the bar. I have not yet grasped how this sport works but today (22 October) I was at The Oval cricket ground to see a friend. The pitch was being prepared for a “top secret” training session by the New England Patriots (or Tampa Bay Buccaneers, I can’t remember which) ahead of Sunday’s NFL match at Wembley. They are completely paranoid about their practices being filmed, my friend told me. She won’t be allowed in the The Oval tomorrow (she works there!) and the Americans had expressed great concern about the flats that overlook the ground. They were politely told that nothing could be done about that. My friend also said that the team’s cheerleaders have a full-time (male) manager. The best job in the world or the worst? We couldn’t decide.

After one night chez Bernardette, I spent the next three nights on the other side of Prospect Park with Lisa Granik MW and her partner Sandy at their splendid house.

Lisa is smart, funny and very candid—which is to say she speaks with great honesty and integrity. Her brilliant mind (and palate) and links to Russia mean that she does not fit easily into the mainstream.

Lisa invited me to a dinner in Chinatown with several of her friends and colleagues. Before coming to the restaurant I met Lisa and her friend Gaetano and we tried the esoteric Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos Tête de Cru 2004—as puzzling as The Times crossword—and a quite lovely Huet Le Mont Sec 2005, with not a discordant note anywhere. I brought with me to the restaurant two vintages of Dr von Bassermann-Jordan’s Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Spätlese Trocken. The 2001 was very tightly coiled, with acidity like the lash of a bullwhip. By comparison, the 2002 was a big softie. It was hard to believe that two such different wines came from the same vineyard and cellar.

We also tried some Champagnes—a simple Jacques Lassaigne Les Vignes de Montguex Blanc de Blancs NV; a good Piper Heidsieck Rare 1999 and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 1999 (though not at all flattered by the restaurant’s glassware); and a woody and fat Vilmart Grand Cellier NV.

Lisa, being a responsible adult, went back home after dinner but the rest of went for cocktails in the West Village. I was asked by one of our dinner companions, “Don’t you ever laugh?” It’s true that my natural expression is a curmudgeonly frown. But I do laugh at things that I find amusing (as this picture taken at Santiago airport proves).

By midnight only Gaetano and myself were left standing. We went to a bar where he knew (and fancied) the manageress. A youngish bloke and four younger ladies parked themselves on the table next to us. I struck up a conversation with one of them, “Kath, from Michigan.” She was blonde, had lips that implied the assistance of collagen, and wore a skirt slightly narrower than my belt. At first glance she was attractive She told me she had studied Victorian Literature in Glasgow. I was excited—perhaps finally I had found an intellectual soul mate wearing a two-inch skirt.

“And who is your favourite Victorian poet?”

“Oh, I think that would be Edmund Spenser.”

SDG and Kath from Michigan

Kath then made me an offer that normally I simply could not refuse. But, having put Spenser in the nineteenth century, I declined. Perhaps they do teach Spenser as part of the Victorian Literature course in Glasgow. But more likely Kath was a dumb blonde who was drunk or stoned or both. She looked thoroughly discombobulated by my refusal. As Spenser wrote: “But the trew fayre, that is the gentle wit,/And vertuous mind, is much more praysed of me.”

Gaetano did not believe that I had received such an offer. I told him to ask Kath. Then he was downright disgusted at me for refusing it.

The chaperone, who spoke fluent Italian, claimed to be an “erm, historian” and blinked nervously like the villain in Hitchcock’s Young and Innocent, was a very odd fellow. Think of Ed Balls’ (the UK Secretary of State for Children, Schools and Families) twitching eyes, too—would you trust him? I suspect that accepting Kath’s offer might have meant an exchange of cash before anything else.

I got back to Brooklyn at 5am. Fortunately I did not have any appointments that day and was able to sleep off my evening of over-indulgence. But in-between the cocktails, interesting offers and hangovers, I did actually do some work. I went to the “California Wine Rush” tasting at Grand Central station, Terry Theise’s “Tasting Grower Champagne: Your how-to Guide” and a Sauternes tasting at Vermilion Restaurant.

I interviewed Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby’s head of wine, and have written-up this for Harpers. Rik Pike of Christie’s was met on an informal basis. I also caught the train from Grand Central to Scarsdale to speak with Jeff Zacharia at his enormous and copiously stocked Zachys store.

After four nights in New York, I went to California for the weekend before returning to NYC  for one night. I had planned to stay in the airport but all the best sleeping spots had already been taken and I needed to wash and rest. So I paid $170 for the privilege of staying in a very basic Best Western hotel next to the airport. Ouch.

That left me with a full day to kill before flying to Brazil in the evening. I raced around the city, doing all the cheesy things that English tourists are supposed to do— walking through Central Park, going to the top of the Empire State Building, eating hotdogs, seeing the Yankee and Citi Field stadiums, the Chelsea Hotel, walking over Brooklyn Bridge, the Staten Island Ferry… I also did a few things that would only occur to me, like going to the building at St. Mark’s Place in the East Village that was used for the cover of Led Zeppelin’s Physical Graffiti. (My dad was at school with John Bonham!).

Other things that amused me during this first trip to NYC included the umbrella salesman on the subway and his rhyming sales rap—“It’s going to rain, it’s such a pain, buy an umbrella, it’ll last forever” or something similar. At the Chinatown restaurant there was a reassuring sign in the loo: “Employees must wash their hands before returning to work.”

I will write about my travels in California, Brazil and Chile soon…

Price: $16.99 (750ml)

From: Zachy’s

Rating: 85