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Le Grenier à Pain/巴黎麵包閣樓

相較於米飯我是麵食主義者。

我非常喜歡吃麵包,特別是歐式穀物乾麵包,外脆內裡有彈性好有嚼勁。第一次旅遊巴黎時因為旅費有限,無法天天美食大餐,所以麵包店是我當時最常尋找午餐的地方。早上在青年旅館吃完水果穀片早餐後便出門逛街探險,中午的午餐我會到人群聚集的麵包店或三明治店外排隊。巴黎的麵包店除了麵包甜點,也會在中午時間提供法國三明治和鹹派等鹹食給顧客選擇。巴黎人的週間午餐都很簡單,除了自己準備午飯餐盒,最常就是買份長棍三明治加沙拉或小份前菜,最後一定要來份甜點。我後來發現飯後甜點對法國人的重要性,儘管午餐再簡單不過,最後一定要吃個甜點作為完美句點。

第一次在巴黎吃到長棍麵包時我就愛上這再簡單不過的香氣和口感。尤其是剛出爐的長棍,熱騰騰地,當你用手撕下一小塊,那美妙脆耳的聲音入耳,那麥子香氣撲鼻而來,真的就像料理鼠王裡的情節,分辨麵包的優劣就要聽它的聲響和聞它的味道。再來就是嚼勁,法國長棍剛烘烤好時外皮是脆的,內部的組織是有韌性的,所以嚼起來非常有嚼勁,不會過軟過硬是最棒的長棍。法國人在吃法國麵包時會用手撕成小塊再放進嘴裡,不論是長棍,甜麵包或是可頌麵包,男女老幼都不會直接整個麵包拿起來啃。一方面較為優雅,一方面也是保護牙齒,避免受傷。因為法國長棍和圓形鄉村麵包,全麥或黑麥麵包外皮都比較硬,不小心牙齒可會受傷。這些脆硬皮麵包的美味期限也比較短,長棍通常隔天就會變硬,不過在吃之前再放進烤箱加熱一下烤脆外皮,可以稍微恢復美味度。每個法國家庭裡的餐桌上一定會有長棍,可以搭配開胃菜、湯品,可以佐主餐食用,主餐後也可搭配各式乳酪。何以見得它對法國餐桌的重要性有多高。

尋找好吃長棍變成我的興趣,旅行覓食的期間會發現一些好吃麵包店,我也上網搜尋哪裡有高評價的法棍。後來得知巴黎每年會舉辦冠軍長棍比賽,只要位在巴黎的麵包店烘培師都可以參加,冠軍烘培師不僅有獎金,還有一紙合約為法國總統府愛麗舍宮提供一整年法式長棍的殊榮。我最愛的長棍麵包店「Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses」也曾在2015和2010年得到此項殊榮。Le Grenier à Pain的意思是麵包閣樓,這間有可愛名字的麵包店就位在我的公寓附近,當時我的公寓也是閣樓,所以特別喜歡這間麵包店的名字。Le Grenier à Pain在巴黎有好幾家分店,但是得到冠軍的法棍是出自這間位在蒙馬特的分店,我一週會來兩三次買我最愛的法式長棍麵包,早餐塗奶油果醬,午餐搭配火腿乳酪,晚餐佐義大利麵或蕃茄湯,就是我當時的平日菜單。

後來我也嘗試了其他年份的冠軍長棍,但都無法代替麵包閣樓的長棍在我心中的地位。甚至現在已搬離蒙馬特,偶而還因為想念它的味道而大老遠坐地鐵去買一根麵包閣樓的法式長棍。2018年的冠軍長棍已在四月出爐,我要趕緊找時間去嘗試一下。不過不一定得過獎項的法棍就一定合胃口,我還是會在巴黎的大街小巷繼續尋找好吃美味的法式長棍。

http://legrenierapain.com

我常去的蒙馬特分店  38, rue des Abbesses – Paris – 75018 Paris, France 7 more words

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