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Coriander Leaf

休息是为了走更长的路。


有14年历史的本地餐馆Coriander Leaf停业了一年之后,由克拉码头搬迁到赞美广场(Chijmes),65个座位的餐馆有开放式厨房、吧台座位和私人餐房,最特别的地方,还是其烹饪教室,几乎占据整体空间的一半。


由创办人也是烹饪总监Samia Ahad(56岁)亲自授课的烹饪教室,就在餐馆开放式厨房的后头,由两个相连的烹饪室组成。本地餐馆愿意拨出空间设烹饪教室的并不多见,愿意拨出与餐馆相当的空间作教学烹用途的,更是少之又少。

  和Samia Ahad谈起,她笑说:“以前在克拉码头的时候,每周起码三次,我必须把餐馆关起来,就因为烹饪课太受欢迎!”
她之前忙着自己的旅游事业,30多岁才开始烹饪的,现在看来,餐馆这边的生意像是人生的另一个春天。我尝了这儿的菜之后,感觉她游离世界的那一段,似乎是为了日后开餐馆的一番“准备”、也是累积,因此30多岁以后才开始,也并不迟。
菜单分成五大类拼凑亚洲特色菜肴
2001年在佳乐丽大酒店(Gallery Hotel)起步的Coriander Leaf,转眼迈入第14年。换到新址,餐馆继续阐发对亚洲料理风格的执着,以小碟的方式,让人用吃的方式体验亚洲。
菜色一半提炼自Samia Ahad的旅游经历,一半提炼自本地主厨Iskandar Latiff的创意。一半是传统的风味,另一半是摩登的诠释,怎么都好,都取自亚洲丰厚的美食文化。因为风格多变,这家餐馆的菜单与一般餐馆以开胃菜、主菜、甜品分类的方式有别,反以新鲜、熟悉、辣、鲜味、甜等分成五大类,让你根据喜好拼凑属于自己的亚洲特色菜单。


从“新鲜”一栏看起,在罗望子、椰子水、酸柑汁蒸出来的蛤,清新甘甜,这是Samia Ahad对菲律宾的记忆之一。越南的点滴,她浓缩进一道酸酸甜甜的烧鸭冷米粉沙拉,拌着炸葱头、烧鸭丝和脆脆的烧鸭皮。
重口味的菜色
归类为熟悉(Familiar)的菜色,更重口味,这可从选材和烹饪的方式两方面看到。
带有波斯料理元素的泥炉烤牛肉与牛油饭就是一个例子。你以为牛肉就是主角吗?未必,波斯人是煮饭的高手,这道菜用印度香米煮至七分熟之后,加入热过的牛油,再蒸个15分钟,过程里,米饭由牛油的蒸气熏香,入口蓬松柔软,口感轻盈,夹带牛油香。这个时候再加上中东料理常见的柠檬酸味盐肤木(Sumac)调味料牛肉串,更是丰富。
但终究是那米饭吸引人,贴近铁板的米粒焦脆香口,总是让人在嘴里有新的发现。


中东风看来是创办人中意的,火炭烤羊扒采用中东料理常见的蘸料——哈里萨(harissa)和酸奶制成,甚富个性。旁边的腌渍洋葱,负责洗刷味蕾。


辣味菜继续带来刺激感,牛腩扣肉包与泡菜、白萝卜丝的组合够辣够劲,这当然是受到韩国料理的影响。牛腩焖了两个半小时,夹在柔软热乎乎的包子里,原来就很有诚意,加上融入鱼露、小辣椒,还有泡菜,味道上面变化更多。
炒茄子是家常的味道,借用小辣椒、青葱、炸米粉增进趣味性。烧烤魔鬼鱼鳍贴近新马风情,香辣参峇辣椒酱与酸柑汁调和,酸酸辣辣地在舌头上燃烧,旁边有葱丝、辣椒丝、黄瓜丝拌成的沙拉。


鲜味菜色包括尼泊尔式鸡肉小笼包,搭配开胃的烤番茄与四川胡椒酱,非常摩登。油炸软壳并不稀奇,特别的是佐酱以咸鸭蛋黄制成,又加入咖喱叶,这道菜色借用东南亚食材展示鲜味,甘香带鲜。
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