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Joel Robuchon Restaurant

刊于16/5/2015联合早报

苦也是甜。
这感觉我以前也不懂,最近法国名厨侯布雄(Joel Robuchon,69岁)让我在一口饭的时间里,明了其中之奥秘。
侯布雄在圣淘沙名胜世界有2家餐馆,其一是走休闲路线的L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon,另一家Joel Robuchon Restaurant则属于高级餐馆级别。2家餐馆最近推出周末午餐,Joel Robuchon Restaurant午餐套餐菜单从$78开始,说实话,这样的价格相当有“诚意”。
被苦味吸引


午餐套餐的开胃菜有三文鱼鞑靼、香脆半生熟蛋、甜菜根苹果苦味沙拉。我挑后者,因为被“苦味”二字吸引。不晓得苦味可以怎么做才能说服人,所以想看名厨有何妙招?
上桌时,被他一再说服。这沙拉甜味中带甘苦,普罗旺斯甜菜根与澳大利亚青苹(Granny Smith)切丁混合,整体来说爽脆酸甜交织,搭配多种绿色草药,嚼在一块的时候,时而辛辣时而苦涩,这样子“吃苦”有趣极了。它让你觉得,只要换一个方式,只要稍加心思,苦味也可以甘甜。再舀一口冷冷的绿芥末冰糕,苦得让人欣喜。
侯布雄是世界上拥有最多米其林星(25颗)的厨师,不是没有原因的。
经历面包“试味菜单”
这家餐馆的周末午餐服务,3道菜的菜单从$78起跳,4道菜$98,5道菜$118。你可以根据胃口和心情挑选菜色,订制属于自己的菜单。
不管是选择几道菜,都能尝到这里新鲜出炉的法式面包。上门当天,光是面包就有6种,仿佛经历小小的面包“试味菜单”。
菜单蕴含开胃小点Amuse Bouche,最后有花色小蛋糕(Petit Fours)及茶点,如果买的是一个体验,$78实属超值。
我挑的是$98的菜单,有一开胃菜、一汤品、一主菜、一甜品。
开胃小点Amuse Bouche很讨好。 23 more words

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