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云吞面

原文:navalants.blogspot.com 2011年4月1日
修订:2015年6月19日

在这个财富不均的年代(其实每个年代都有财富不均的时候),似乎只有民间饮食是公平的,不管穷人富人,对于美食都趋之若鹜。而美食也不一定是山珍海味,简单廉宜的面食,只要料理得当,也是一道美味佳肴。

云吞面是广东地道食物之一,上世纪50年代在香港蓬勃兴起。云吞面也随着早期广东移民传入新加坡,至今云吞面依然深得人心。

在广州吃的云吞面,以鲜虾取胜;在香港吃云吞面,同样面条浸在汤水里,功夫就在精心熬制的上汤上,干贝的味道香滑浓郁,不把汤喝完是对厨师的不敬。

在新加坡吃云吞面,则分干捞和面汤两种,干捞又有多辣、少辣、免辣等,而云吞面也不单纯是云吞,还有叉烧,林林总总。简而言之,一方水土一方情,美食必须顺应各地民情,才能发扬光大。

老婆大人的广记云吞面一吃就吃了30余年。广记夫妇曾经在Dakota Crescent大牌68号的新稻香咖啡店租了个熟食摊位,直到2004年政府把地皮转售给私人发展商兴建公寓为止。今天的Dakota Residences就建在这地段上。地皮一转手,每平方尺售价飙升五倍。政府“劫富济贫”,年年都派红包。

Dakota Crescent的组屋被夷为平地后,许多居民都搬到对面Old Airport Road小贩中心后面Jalan Tiga和Jalan Lima的新组屋。广记夫妇则转移阵地,到Bedok South 重整旗鼓。

新加坡虽是弹丸之地,每个小社区的食味原来不尽相同。在Dakota Crescent客似云来的广记云吞面去到勿洛,有虎落平阳被犬欺的感觉。美食不受当地居民赏识,郁郁寡欢,一年之内搬回Old Airport Road附近Cassia Crescent大牌34号的美珍咖啡店。小别胜新婚,跟老居民谈笑叙旧,开心每一天。 12 more words

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