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同嚐

由咖啡師Jesse沖煮自己烘的咖啡豆,有種光榮和期待的感覺,因為一種咖啡的風味能夠有不同的展現,每個人在嚐啡和沖啡都有不同的表現和反應,是我樂見的事,這是每次喝咖啡的多層意義,我相信一次比一次精彩。

我們沖淺度烘焙的巴拿馬咖啡,相對於我常用的幼研磨 1: 14,Jesse用的粉磨得較粗,較接近砂糖的大小,因此咖啡表現較清淡的風味,以及沖煮的時間較長,卻帶出了一些我未嚐過的味道。他外表氣定神閒,沖少量的水作預浸,時間比平常人所花的30至40秒還要久一點,他至少一分鐘後再次下水,而中途以幼細的水柱不時斷續沖潤咖啡粉; 由於豆的研磨度比較粗,沖出來的是赤紅的顏色。

對於這200ml 的咖啡,我最初聞到熱帶果的香氣,亦有一定的甜味,可是分辨不出是哪一種甜; Jesse 說他喝到蜜桃和焦糖的味道,而咖啡由高溫待到降溫後再喝,都保持一貫的香甜。我未想過自己烘的豆達此程度,亦得到Jesse的青睞,他說他會買這樣的咖啡豆。

沖啡方法沒界限
要沖出味道清晰的手沖咖啡,咖啡粉通常磨得較粗,口感很輕,更有空間展現咖啡的層次; 用較幼粉作手沖咖啡側重口感,風味和氣味上的發揮沒有粗粉手沖那般豐富。

細想之下,沖煮咖啡可謂各師各法,方法和結果皆可以變化萬千,可是總有一些大眾認定的金科玉律,限制了進步的可能,尤以手沖咖啡為甚。例如沖泡時間限定在2分半鐘到3分鐘、預浸一定用熱水泡30秒。

誠然,沖煮咖啡亦關乎溫度控制,用較低的溫度是為了萃取較少的味道,Jesse 向我提到用室溫水預浸咖啡的方法,目的是為了沖出較少苦味或朱古力味。這聽起來有點新奇,而有點藝高人膽大的感覺,其實重點在於掌握水的溫度如何影響咖啡的萃取多少,從而按照嚐啡者的需要調節風味的變化。

後感
回想在Montreal這個寧靜的小城,難得遇上願意分享和交流的咖啡師殊不容易,感謝遇上同樣對咖啡富有熾熱追求的Jesse,在這一星期內我數次找他傾談,過程可謂啟發良多,無論是關於沖煮espresso或手沖咖啡的心得,都令我開了眼界。

“咖啡師最難面對也許不是維持生意,而是來喝咖啡的人對咖啡沒有要求。”這是我對Jesse做咖啡店的感想,想必也是不少咖啡師的心聲。

Alex Lai 黎銘業

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